Peder_y2k

The clock is a parasitic drain. When I store my bikes for more than a few days, I disconnect the main fuse connector. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/xp3corp/StoreFront http://store02.prostores.com/xp3corp/catalog/products-v120_thumb.jpg Anybody using this device to ward off deer? Reviews? Inguiring minds... blah blah.... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

CW (turning 'in') leans the mix, turning out (CCW) richens. The pilot screw controls a mix of air plus fuel, not just air OR fuel, but both. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Did you do the 26,000 mile valve adjust? If not, get busy and get it done. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

That sound is definately a fuel mix related issue, where a small amount of unburned fuel is passing into the exhaust from either a rich or lean condition causing a misfire. Try adding Seafoam or Techron or Chemtool B12 to the fuel tank. If no improvement in 30 miles, you might try adjusting the pilot screws (idle fuel misture), if no improvement then proceed to carb synch. If it were my bike that has a fuel conditioner regimen already, I'd start with the pilot screws. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Check both ends (battery and solenoid) of the wire terminals (ring connectors) where they attach to the wire for corrosion. I've had to resolder one, and replace another due to connection failures. The high amp load of cranking encounters resistance creating heat that makes smoke. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

What fluid did you use in your home-made (manometer) synch tool? And, does it have restrictors in the vinyl tubing near the intake? Inquiring minds want to know....... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I have one of those cameras and tried it out for a few days to find it doesn't work very well. On subsequent restarts of the car running some errands, the first fideo was OK, but the video capture had errors on restarts, and neither the camera nor my computer could read the data for replay. The camera now just sits on my desk. The $42.00 I spent was OK for an experiment just to play with, but I suggest you look for better. As always, YMMV -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Do your research on memory for the camera. Newer cameras are capable of accepting/requiring class10 SD cards (fast) and 64gb capacity. Lower capacities obviously have lower recording time, and cost. Also check to see how long the camera records in terms of minutes or gb before it automaticly stops, and record must be activated again. I have a now obsolete Toshiba Camleo Air 10 (similar to flip style cameras of a few years ago) that has 64gb capacity but will record ony 4gb segments as it is programmed to save power by turning off the record, then power a few minutes later, so the camera record must be turned on again to keep recording. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I replaced mine with a 30amp circuit breaker that resets itself after cooling off. The blade connection is retained for quick disconnect such as storage or service purposes. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I'm with TJ, use them until you begin to seek cracks in the tread area or sidewall, or wrinkles in the sidewall. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

To properly bleed the front brake line on the MK1, one must crack open the fitting at the highest point in the system, and that's the one running from the master cylinder to the metering valve at the frame next to the fork clamps. The MK2 has a bleed valve at this point making it much easier. Use a fitting wrench or you'll damage the fitting. One can reach up along the forks, or down through the fork opening in the fairing to access. Use rags to soak up the brake fluid that comes out, and listen for the sound of squirting as air pushes out. Not easy work, but can be done. Repeat as necessary. YMMV -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Not mine, but to give you an idea........... http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/3815281567.html http://images.craigslist.org/3M43I13L85Le5I25J8d5j21a9c77aac4b165e.jpg

Just keep in mind those LED lights are not DOT approved as frontal road lights and can get you a ticket. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Now that's a good one! I'm kinda at a loss. Advice: Park in areas not frequented by thieves. Keep ID and money with you at all times. Chain your rotweiller to the bike. Paste a .44 magnum sticker prominently on the bike. Cover the bike with a good all weather cover that locks on......and put another .44 mag sticker on that also. .....Good Luck, and may the force be with you..... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

He just wanted a reason to have a closer look at your bike! Reminds me of years ago when I had a 1953 Jaguar XK120 FHC, cruising old roads at 120mph, got pulled over several times, they started asking questions about the old car so I gave them the 'show and tell'........... and never got a ticket! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Looks easily achievable by removing the top box, and cutting down the windshield. Maybe add an edge trim to the w/s.

At this point, concentrate on the slide/diaphragm assembly first. the slide should move with just a little resistance from finger pressure, but zero sticking. If it sticks, closely examine the slide for burrs. The diaphragm should have no rips, but a few pinholes are OK for now. The rim that seals the diaphragm to the carb body needs to be uniform all way round, so look for anything unusual that seems irregular. Since the problem moved with switching the slide to another carb, the main jet/emulsifier tube is not the primary issue. There's something about the slide/diaphragm/needle that's not right. Tool Dip is a good product for filling the pinholes in the diaphragm, the kind used for coating plier handles. Just a drop on each hole will do. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

Just use Shell Oil Co. ROTELLA T6 Synthetic...... good for all temps you would ride in. This one oil suites all your needs, including a decent price. Don't let the label fool you about diesel engines, as the oil is highly suited for mc's with hydraulic clutch. It is also better in high heat conditions as it transfers heat faster to the cooling system helping the engine run cooler. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

Use Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic as a permanent replacement. Available at Wallyworld for around $22/Gal.US I use the Rotella 15/40 T3 dyno oil in my bikes. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

That gas spitting is indicative of either an improper fluid level in the carb (float level), or a loose/leaking main jet/emulsifier tube. Others will chime in here on this issue......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

The attached image is from the uploader that gives image size limitations. When you want to upload an image, check its file size first, then manipulate the size to fit the limitations of the uploader. Most common image files will be limited to 195.3kb. The attached image is only 42.2kb. I could resize it using Paint (or other image software), then upload a huge same image. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

Geometry is why it went over on you. If you could have kept the handlbars straight, it would have stayed up. The angle of the fork rake, combined with the height of the trailer, plus the rear wheel on the ground, all conspire to have gravity as the major force turninng the front wheel to the side. It's called castor. The weight of the bike shoving downward on the castor angle of the forks forces the wheel off center, and trying to manually control the whandlebars against this force while stepping off the trailer onto the ground is VERY challenging, and one really needs two good helpers.... or a good restraining system. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA -83,88

What?!! No gear indicator on 2nd gen.? OMG, seems to be going backwards, what's next........kick start?:whistling: -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR