Peder_y2k

It is a mechanical switch located adjacent to the master cylinder. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Wow! 2008 to 2013 is 5 years without a charging. If the battery is the flooded type, rather than a sealed AGM, then IMHO that battery will not take a full charge because it is now sulfated, and would not be trustworthy. Best to trade it in for a new battery, and from what I read, the Dekka (sp) is proving the best choice for reliability, longevity, and high power. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Prairiehammer, The difference between genI-II gaskets is that the genII gasket is wider, making it easier to grab onto and maneuver. I don't need easy, I need effective - translated: no leaks for next umpteen years. Just want to it once, so not to do it over again.....ever. -Pete

I agree with reddevilmedic regarding SEAFOAM...... bikes (and other gasoline powered equipment) sitting outside in cold conditions need a fuel system additive to deal with the condensation and ethanol contaminants that form inside the fuel tank while sitting with anything less than a full to-the-top gas tank. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Other than proper torque for the cover bolts, any tips to ensure good seal of the valve cover gasket? Any tricks on installation, such a gluing the gasket to the cover first? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Lucky save!! Be sure to use a torque wrench on assembly. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

You might try using one of those small telescopic magnets in an attempt to retrieve it, providing it is a ferros metal. If you leave it inside the cooling system, it can eventually decompose and the pieces begin moving around and jam up the coolant pump, or block a critcal passage leading to a hot spot that could damage the engine. You asked...... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88 BTW, I have a 1989 Chrysler Turbo GTC convertible that has never required any repairs...... oh wait, a new tranny pan seal, squeezed from a tube (RTV)

The Boston Globe http://www.coveritlive.com/templates/coveritlive/images/twitter_bird.png Asked if blasts were terror-related, Boston police chief said "We’re not being definitive... but you can reach your own conclusions." Maybe it was a N Korean missile attack......... Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

For a big heavy bike like the Wing, that mileage is good. My '88VR (780lbs.) does between 49.9 and 51mpgUS (GPS confirmed) when driven gently. IF mileage drops under 47mpgUS, I figure I've got work to do....... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Notice SilvrT's location..........CANADA.......... seems they use the Imperial Gallon, and Liters. Makes a big difference for comparrison to US gallons. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Techron is good stuff, like Seafoam. Obviously your cars needed fuel system cleanup, and Techron does that. I purchase Union76 fuel for all my vehicles, including bikes, because it already contains Techron. However, Techron does not contain a water dispersant, and Seafoam does. So, I maintain a Seafoam regimen in adjusted amounts for my cycles, especially for the storage season. I am careful to avoid 'over treatment' with additives as a precaution. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Next time, use a torque wrench on the bolts. If the bolts are snapped off, BIG PIA. Will need to use a screw extractor if they are broken off flush, and that requires drilling a hole. Maybe can use a reverse drill bit and they might come out. To gain access for the work, you might need to remove the engine from the frame. Right now, your bike value just decreased $2000. The repair work is very risky for damaging the crankcase. If you are not comfy doing precision work, take it to a pro. Best start the process of getting a bank loan as this is expensive. Let's hope the bolts simply backed out.......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

If the plug in question is indeed for the camshaft cap, it is essential that it be replaced. I read that somewhere in the manual. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I'm beginning to suspect the final drive. The drive pinion gear threaded stud may have broken, and the retaining nut that keeps the couping gear snug is now loose. When this happens, the system works fine under acceleration loads, but unloaded or decel will make noise. Need more accurate symptom description for diagnosis from way over here. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Indeed if it is/was strictly a fuel related issue, it would/could happen all day, then be gone the next. This is called a 'transitory' issue. It is well known that ethanol in the gasoline nowadays (10%) has a way of reacting to small amounts of water and dirt/rust in the fuel tank and form soft 'collections' of stuff that can block small passageways in the carburetors producing defective operation. Continued starting efforts can move the 'collections' out of the way for proper operation. One can drain the carbs and closely examine the purged fuel for evidence of contents that should not be present. One can also examine the fuel filter contents for more clues. There may be conditions developing that make the future operation of the fuel system unreliable. Best to cleanse the entire fuel system, and replace filters and even hoses that are questionable. Then resume operations with a continued regimen of SEAFOAM or other high quality fuel system cleaner additive to prevent the process from starting over again. I've run my motorcycles for over 25 years with no failures. Can't say that about my Jeep out in the middle of nowhere. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

How do you know that the right side cylinders were not firing? Did you place your hand on them to check heat while engine running? My first thought is a carburetor malfunction due to water or dirt in the carburetors. Water will form in the fuel tank from condensation, and then collect in the carb bowl, then if one is lucky, the water will be sucked into the combustion chamber and blown out the exhaust. If you also suspect water in the fuel, begin a regimen of SEAFOAM added to a fresh tank of fuel. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Check ebay. I've seen several there recently, as I'm looking for a left side, the one that holds the radio insert. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

A littl off -topic, but when I saw how close the R/R was to the exhaust, I fabricated and installed a sheet metal heat shield to minimize radiant heat gain from the close proximity pipe. Seems to function adequately. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

From over here, it looks like a camshaft cap oil plug. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Brand new battery does not mean it is fully charged when you get it. As the battery sits waiting for someone to buy it, it will gradually loose its charge, about 0.10v per day. Most new motorcycle (and car) batteries come with instructions to place a charger on them for some 24hrs. Then as you experiment, it uses up more charge. I suggest you charge it up using a motorcycle charger, or a charger with max. 2amp output. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

What DragonRider says is largely correct, however, location of sale makes a big difference, and so does season. Motorcycles seem to sell for more $$ in the Pacific Northwest as compared to much of the rest of the country. Bargains are where you find them. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I'm thinking vacuum leak at the carb mounting booties, the pilot screws could use some tweaking, and the carbs need a thorough cleaning - especially the emulsifier tubes. The SEAFOAM treatment may help if done correctly. Also, clean dry spark plugs can do wonders. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I'm thinking what you are saying in all that text, is the bike has a weak spark at the plugs. If it seems weak, it could be the that the battery is supplying voltage to operate the ignition, the starter, and the headlight, and the result is the battery may not have enough amps required for all, resulting in the supposed weak spark. The headlight is supposed to go out when the start button is pressed, and this is by design. You can try the process differently, and that is by first pressing and HOLDING the start button down, then turn the key to 'on'. This will bypass the headlight, and give the ignition system more amps to supply spark, then you can release the start button to end the excercise. Be sure to fully recharge the battery first. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Maybe the new tire just needs to be 'broken in', or, maybe it was the road causing the symptom. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Well I must say that color on the new-to-you bike is IMHO the most complimentary of all the color options. I'm still a fan of the 1st gens, but that color has me wavering. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88