Peder_y2k

I'd take the forms off in 5 days and backfill the hole using a vibrating shoe every 2ft depth of fill. Then two weeks before beginning assembly of the tower, guying religeously with tornados in mind.

Amazing......Google maps already shows the gap! It's only 12 hours later.

WD40

Yep. Did it to both my bikes no problem. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

You sure that is not a misprint and 81000km? That's 50,000 miles, not 5000 miles. Why would it need a complete rebuild? Are you making a show bike for trophies? The '88 and '89 are reportedly the most reliable of all the 1st gen bikes made. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Question.... do you suppose a failing u-joint can be revealed by setting a non-running bike up on centerstand, shift into first gear, and gently rock the rear wheel back and forward to the binding point? Suspicious sounds or irregular 'feel' at binding points could give failing parts away with clicking and grinding. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Hard to describe, but by 'ear' means listening closely, and feeling the resonance of the running engine for changes as one makes adjustments. The ideal is smoothness in steady running and crisp throttle response. Roughness is to be eliminated, and is felt and heard in the human senses. It is very easy to recognize the difference between rough and smooth running when one has a base to compare to, such as experience, or example. When I tune my bikes, I first synch the carbs, then start playing with the pilot screws, adjusting each of them in and out until I arrive at what I 'feel' and 'hear' is satisfactory. Blipping the throttle in Neutral also gives me a 'feel' about quickness of response for any further pilot screw adjustment. 'Sensing' the exhaust temps with the back of my hand at the muffler outlet also give me input. Both my bikes have exhaust so cool I can leave the back of my hand 1" from the tip indefenately...... or until my body objects from getting down to the exhaust. I have yet to incorporate an non-contact temperature indicator (infrared thermometer) that I have, but that could be helpul. I can smell the back of my hand for exhaust, and have learned the difference between rich and lean smells. Riding the tuned bike at varying load conditions provides more feedback, and I'm listening and feeling for misfire, exhaust popping, crackling sounds, and detonation, and any hesitation or stumbling. My final proof of tuning is fuel economy, and when my '88 gets 48+mpg US two-up riding, I know it's right. I'd say that tuning by 'ear' is an art form, with some science thrown in there somewhere. Hope this helps............. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Could be the slave cylinder, but first check the fluid level in the master cylinder at the lever. Also bleed the clutch hydraulic fluid system as trapped air will adversely affect clutch action. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Glad you made it through 'Tornado Alley'. A minor 'bump' in the night is nothing compared to what happened to others who lost everything. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Did you stick the driveshaft into the final drive and rotate the shaft to see if the the wheel hub turns OK? And vice versa, rotate the wheel hub and see if the drive shaft spins OK. If everything from the driveshaft back to the wheel drive hub is turning properly, the there's a problem in the transmission or middle gear assembly. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I dunno how well the gluestix work on ABS, but I know that the paint would need removal before application. I just use the ABS glue from the hardware store. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

OMG..... reminds me of a time when I was at a gas station fueling up and a burning car pulled up to the dispenser next to me. Driver jumps out screaming "I'm on fire...what should I do...?"..... I immediately yanked the nozzle out, replaced the cap, started the bike and got out of there real quick, circled around the block and saw the fire truck extiguishing the flames, and stopped in to pay for the gas I just bought, and the mgr. said it was 'on the house' due to the situation. Nice.... Examining the car, it had a fire from long time oil leaks. I could'a been a crispy critter!!!!! -Pete in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Yes on what George says. Solo riding, I can easily putz around my flat neighborhood easily at 25mph in 5th gear, and even gradually accelerate without lugging, but if I need power, am prepared to shift down 2 gears, and while the clutch is in for downshifting open the throttle so when the tranny enters 3rd gear the engine is well up in rpm for the clutch to engage the power. I've learned over time to 'feel' where the engine is prone to lugging and stay just above that point. I routinely drive the bike in the highest gear (lowest RPM) for the situation, and in city am usually in 4th most of the time. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Check with MILES, as he's now got lots of distance with one under his butt, and loves it. Not much for passanger accomodations. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88VR

Consider this. The carbs sit on top of the hot engine. Heat rises. The carbs soak up the rising engine heat, and the fuel in the carbs begins to get hot and evaporate, and this produces the aroma. When tuning both my bikes with the air box off, I've seen the carbs begin weeping fuel upwards out of the carbs after the warm/hot engine was turned off. I thought something was wrong, but the bikes start easy, run good, and get better than expected fuel economy, and there are no leaks. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Likely the drive shaft gear where it slips into the coupler gear is stripped using spline type teeth. The shaft is likely stripped, and the coupler is badly worn. This is located at the final drive connection to the swing arm containing the shaft. Common wear point for the early 1200's. Easy replacement when you finally get the two parts. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

No. The fuel tank has an air vent in the form of a rubber hose leading to a check valve called a roll-over valve that minimizes fuel spill if the bike is way over on its side. This valve is not present on MK1 bikes. The valve has a very small passage through it for air to pass, and is the cause of the slow filling. On my '88, I bypassed the valve entirely. The valve can become contaminated/dirty internaly and cause sticking of the check ball, resulting in the slow escape of air that needs to get out to make space for the incomming fuel. Hope this is clear.... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Definately need to check the circuit board for the known broken solder connections issue. Resoldering is quite simple, just keep the heat down (10W tip) and short duration tip application, otherwise risk of burning circuits off the board. When I did mine, I just applied a spot of flux to each contact and applied heat without new solder and that worked fine for my application, then cleaned the flux away. YMMV -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

You are right on the money. The risk of higher voltages, say 14.5+, is boiling off the electrolyte in the battery on longer rides. An all day 500+ mile ride at 14.7v will result in fast evaporation of the battery acid and rapid battery deterioration. I'm super comfortable with stock equipment charging away at 13.9v - 14.1v all day long as it keeps the battery in balance safely, and my batteries never lack for full charge and cranking ability. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

The 1989 transmission is interchangebale into the 84. Just a lot of work, and lots of parts and pieces to account for. Take lots and lots of pictures for reference, because you'll need them. it may take less time and involvement to simply repair the '84 tranny with the 2 improved parts (washer and clip) and leave the '89 alone. With the repair, one can expect the tranny to outlast the engine, or you (your interest in the bike)......... whichever comes first. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Quite normal, but temp quage will go higher under similar circumstances riding two-up. 1983 models read high, but never boils over if cooling system is clean, full, and t-stat working. Later models don't read nearly as high, and cooling fan can remain on when key is shut off. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Name of Restaurant SEA J's Cafe Street Address 2501 Washington Street City Port Townsend State or Province WA Website (Optional) - Quality of Food Fantastic Quality of Service Average Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) Seafood Alcohol Served? No Additional Comments Best Fish n Chips in PNW, either N.Pacific Cod, or Halibut. 2pc fish (cod) with fries, lemon, tartar, garlic toast, and coleslaw - $7.45. Also have 3 and 4 pc quantity for extra $. Very large excellent milkshakes $4. Scruffy looking place, some outdoor tables, industrial surroundings but view of inner harbor fleet and mountains. I really like the fish here, simply because it is fresh, flavorful, and properly prepared. Could care less about the service because the food is so good, and one leaves here well fed! Open everyday, all day........ call them (360) 385-6312 and the cook will answer. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Well I found no restaurant reviews for WA state on our site, so I'm asking: Where's a good place to eat with decent American food and fair prices in/near Winthrop and Twisp Washington? Located on Hwy20 in Eastern WA just west of the Columbia river, and on our North Cascades Scenic Hwy route. -Pete, in Taccoma WA USA '83,88

New crush washers and snug the bolt to specs should stop the leak. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Considering swapping out the std 60/55W bulb for one rated at 67/60W for additional lighting power. Would this bulb generate excess heat that damages the plastic of the headlight assembly in my classic old '88VR? It would be the PHILIPS 9003/HB2/H4 VP. OR, is there a better bulb I should consider? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88