Peder_y2k

Did you install the new tires yourself? Is the front wheel properly balanced? Is there proper air pressure in the forks? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Considering repositioning CDI unit and vacuum pressure unit to inside the left fairing amongst the radio stuff wherever there is space. Should be less heat and moisture exposure there. Any pro's or con's ?? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

As long as we're on the lookout for crashbars, my scoot (88VR) needs a good unscarfed up right side engine crash bar. These have the extra tabs for the chin spoiler/air dam, lower cowl, or whatever it is called that the '83-85 do not have. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

You are darn right that gasoline is dangerous. Afterall, one gallon will propel a 2000lb projectile a distance of 30 miles!! Think VW beetle. If the conditions are treated with respect, then a fire/explosion hazard is almost nil. When I repair a drained and rinsed tank with solder or welding, I fill the tank with water and let it stand with top open overnight. This forces the gasoline vapors out, as gasoline is lighter than water. Then purge the water. I refill with water before intoducing spark or flame to the work area. I once had a fire start when soldering a copper pipe that had anti-freeze in it. Whooda thought anti-freeze is flammable? As with all combustibles, due caution is advised, and forethought is required. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88 On the '88VR, now adjusting float levels using paint thinner (same specific gravity and density as gasoline), but much less prone to fire, and it dries away reasonably fast)

If the small amount of rust is really minimal, sealing the tank is not necessary if one continues a regimen of Seafoam, and keeping the tank full of fuel. Airspace inside the tank is responsible for the condensation process that develops and produces the water that causes the rust. Prevent condensation, and with routine removal of the water via the Seafoam, the tank will not continue to rust any further. Coating the tank is a major PIA. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

For the rust removal at the top of the fill neck, I'd try using a small hand held wire brush that can fit down there. These little brushes are similar to toothbrushes, often sold in 3-packs with one brass bristle, one natural bristle, and one steel bristle. Stainless steel bristle can also be found. Any brushings will simply fall into the tank where they can be vacuumed up through the sender access hole. That drilled hole you mentioned would be located in the filler neck sleeve that projects down into the tank. The hole relieves air pressure that builds up. IMHO, the function of the sleeve is to support the gas nozzle tube. Or, maybe to minimize overfilling.....don't know. When drilling that hole, the drill chips will go down inside, and can be vaccuumed out. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

OOPS.... big mistake I made. I must have been thinking of a different (Honda) fuel tank system at that moment I responded. The sending unit is indeed retained by 4 small bolts, 10mm head, and easily removed. Just be careful pulling up the assembly so as not to strain the gasket if it sticks, if it does, use a blunt tool to help it separate to keep the gasket together. On reassembly, the bolts should just be snug with a 5in box end wrench. Back up the gasket seal with the black RTV if you must. Sorry for the confusion, next time I'll finish my morning coffee before trying to think!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I found that a small square shank screwdriver was required to leverage the shim out of the bucket, as it resists bending better than round shanks, and reduces marking the head casting. Suggestion: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT WITH ANY SHIMS REMOVED. Don't ask me how I know.......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

The sending unit is located at the top of the lower section of the fuel tank. Removing the seat is required. The unit is secured with a medium heavy sheet metal retaing ring that is twisted out and back in, and you will see that. Light hammer taps is all the energy that is required to move the ring to disengage. A light coat of WD40 helps lubricate the process as there will be friction on the seal. A new seal is not necessary in most cases unless the gasket is dray, cracked, or damaged somehow. The two XVZ's I own did not require a new gasket as they were both undamaged and still pliable after 25+ years. If I determined the gasket to be marginal, I would use the black RTV together with the old seal in the final assembly. The black RTV is gasoline and oil-proof, and says so on the label, where all the other RTV products react to gasoline causing swelling and separation of the RTV itself, and this stuff can fall down inside the tank and create havoc. The black RTV is the most expensive on the store shelf, but very cost effective considering. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

The very bottom of the tank should be examined. Remove the fuel level sending unit for access. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

IMHO, dump some Seafoam in the fuel tank to help clean up the stale gas remains and absorb some of the water that developed from condensation inside the tank. This happens when bikes are stored for long periods with fuel in the tank. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Better to use paint thinner, or 'white spirits' (Stoddard Solvent) as it/they is significantly less prone to fire, and will evaporate away quickly enough. I use paint thinner for calibrating fuel level in carbs. "White spirit or Stoddard Solvent" was invented for the dry cleaning industry in the 1920's to minimize skin damage and fire hazard to workers. Straight gasoline with no additives was used previously. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Did I find some debris worth the effort? Yes! Don't know what it was inside the tank of my '88 VR, but it did not appear to be rust or rust related, more like 'flakes' and little chips of something that may have been introduced thru the fill neck, maybe even from the fuel itself such as 'varnish'. The dry dusty debris was definately visible and amounted to perhaps a tablespoon in quantity.Tank now spotless with no sign of corrosion even at the welded tank seams. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

"DRY" is indeed the key word. Used this technique every time I've had to service the inside of fuel tanks, with no adverse results. Done maybe 10 or so in my lifetime. Again, "DRY" .... like in zero fuel residue. Oh yes, perfromed task outside in driveway, so if the vacuum blew up, I could step into the neighbors yard and get it back. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

One can remove the fuel level sending unit from the tank to look down inside. Once the tank is dry, a modified shop vacuum cleaner wand can be worked down in the tank to suck up loose debris. I modded a crevice tool by inserting a 1/2" vinyl tube section sealed with duct tape for the service, and worked the tube around inside the tank. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I just ordered one and paid via PayPal. I envisioned this concept many years ago, and now it is here! We'll see how well it works.......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Depends where you put it................

FWIW, I carry a generic automotive electric fuel pump with wire connects and extra fuel hose w/ clamps. This pump produces some 3-4 psi fluid pressure and is perfect for the 4 carbs. It also produces an adequate flow rate for high power demands in mountain pass two-up riding with full bags. Gravity feed will also work to keep the carbs full.... just an idea. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

I am aware that parts sources, programs, and prices have changed significantly over the years. Last time i did a valve adjust, there existed a valve shim exchange program at the dealer, and that has dissapeared, along with the dealer......... What, or who, is a good source for the 25mm valve shims used in the XVZ1300 motors in 2013? I know partszilla (Boatparts.com) has them available online. I need three of them, a couple #275 or #272, and one #265 or #267 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

Looking closely, the manual pages indicate BOTH FIRING ORDER 1-3-4-2 VALVE ADJUSTING ORDER 1-3-2-4 However, if we look closer, all the cam degree diagrams agree indicating that the actual firing order is 1-3-2-4 IMHO, I agree that the manual is incorrect in the text portion that indicated the 1-3-4-2 I followed the 1-3-2-4 sequence and it worked perfectly. I since changed my manual by crossing out the error and writing in the correct 1-3-2-4 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88

My scoot can use a left inside fairing panel that also houses the speaker. Mine has broken plastic next to the mirror mounting, and I want to replace it. Reference #2 in the diagram. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

NOT STUCK ANYMORE. Fabricated a couple of 'slipper spoons' for the cam lobes to ride up on and push the lifter buckets down out of the way. Situation all normal now. Many thanks to all who suggested ideas. Those suggestions led me to focus on the concept of the escape ramp, so I went to my local $ store looking for something suitable for raw materials, picked up a long chrome handled measure spoon just for the material in the handle, discarded the colored silicone spoon, cut the metal bar (the handle) in half to make two tools, ground a taper at the working ends, measured the distance from lobe contact down in the bucket to the side casting wall, bent the tool 90* at that point, and now had verticle handles for the short ramp to slip under the lobe. With one hand lightly stabilizing both tools, rotated the camshaft via the crank and the slip tools worked perfectly. The cam lobe rode the ramp pushing the bucket down and out of the way, and with the lobes now pointing up, the tools were easily removed. Much relieved, can now get back to adjusting valves properly. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88XVZ

I HATE it when they take their half of the road out of the middle. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88XVZ

For what it's worth, I had bubbles develop in a front mounted Dunlop Elite that was less than 5 years old with plenty of tread. POINT: Examine and check tires often, no matter the date code. Whenever I walk up to the bike, or walk away, I always glance at the tires just to see what I can see, and several times during the season will get down on the ground and rotate the tires and run my hands over the surfaces checking for irregularities. I also monitor air pressures for any changes. Needless to say, I won't ride on Dunlops anymore.... ever! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88 XVZ

For what it's worth, I read somewhere that the '88 and '89 were the absolute most reliable, in terms of least number of repairs reported in some survey. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88