Peder_y2k

Like I said in another post, one's first impression is usually correct, and indeed the shim did what you thought.........it headed to the floor, but didn't quite make it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I think I'd prefer a headset that doesn't attach to my head. So I must pass on that one for someone else to benefit. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Check the fuse panel first for loose glass fuse holder tangs. Your machine is old enough to have fatiqued metal tangs, and when they let go, things stop working. Also check the main fuse connector as it can become loose with age. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Engine guards are soft steel and easily bent. Heck, if the guard can be bolted firmly to the frame, a large rubber mallet will move it around as req'd. Pry bars also work, using something between to minimize scratches like wood or plastic. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Stant #13758 Thermostat

Yes, even premium products have a few duds among all the good ones. Take it back for an exchange. "Not holding charge" -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Hey shorty..... keep in mind that if you lower the shock air pressure, the bikes sits lower AND makes it much more difficult to get it up on the centerstand. High pressure shock = easy-up centerstand. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

That's the best way, you won't regret it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

First impressions are usually correct, so it is more likely that it fell outside the engine and found a hiding place in the bike frame rather than make it to the floor. I have this happen more than not undoing screws. Also, the shim might not make noise hitting the floor, and is round and could easily roll some distance in any direction. Before taking any serious inside engine search, do a really thorough frame/floor search. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I'd try the magnet till I was blue in the face with frustration, but GET THAT THING OUT before operating the engine as oil flow could carry it into compromising places.!!!!!!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Could be the architecture of the exhaust system. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Exhaust 'header' to down pipe. This is where most leaks occur first. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

More exhaust gas is exiting from the right. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You've just made the BEST choice. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Not knowing, I hesitate to answer, but Delo was formulated for diesel engines and would NOT have any energy conserving architecture as diesel engines haven't changed in terms of oil stress. I use Shell Rotella in my bikes, and it is not 'energy conserving' rated. I buy it cheapest at Walmart for around $12.00/gal. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If you are associating riding motorcycles on older tires with a trip to the hospital, then that is a failed argument as there are MANY non-motorcyclists who would argue the same about all motorcycling. As example, my neighbor thinks I am inviting disaster simply by ridng any bike. Been riding mc's for some 45 years now with NEVER an injury incident, and that's not luck, it is the result of being skilled, experienced, observant, and conscientious. ANY activity has inherent risk (even staying in bed all day), leaving us to live with calculated risk for everything we do. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You said: "I have not physically removed and inspected the bearings". Well there you are! It is likely the bearing race has small defects that won't show up in your preliminary testing. If your bike has over 40K miles, then worn bearings are highly likely. Until you correct the situation, stay under 65mph. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

What makes you think the steering head bearings are OK? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If they are nylon or aramid cord tires, they are fine, (but polyester cord tires made from old recycled stretch jeans are crap). However, the tread may be kinda dry and have lost some stickiness (road grip) so avoid the hard acceleration and braking that the bike is capable of. Keep an eye on the tread and sidewall for cracks, when these develop it is downhill for ANY tire. These bikes don't turn well at high speed, but you said it was for around town use, so just stay out of the rain. My barn find '87 Virago has the original nylon tires and they are still in excellent roadworthy condition for my riding and won't be changing anytime soon. That line about the time expiration is BS and a ploy by the manufacturers to compel you to spend money you don't have to. There is a sucker born every minute, don't be one of them. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

How do those buttons come off in the first place? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1988/VENTURE+ROYAL+-+XVZ13DU/HANDLEBAR+CABLE/parts.html Looks to be in 'HANDLEBAR CABLE' -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The throttle control uses two cables, one to open, the other to close. If one is slack, then the throttle plates can move. There is also a small return spring on the carb linkage that could be compromised. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Had a 1953 JAGUAR XK150MC Coupe bought for $750, learned how to drive fast in a real road car (150 mph), then traded it for a '58 Chevrolet Corvette with 3 tops and a big motor (dual quad 327 that would burn rubber in 4 gears), then sold that pig for enough money to finish my college education (tuition and board). Either car would be $60-80K today..........kinda like an education cost now. Glad I don't have them anymore as the Jag nickle and dimed me to near death, and the Vette literally tried to kill me, and really did kill the guy who bought it from me.......despite my warnings. Oh well. I sure like looking at the few I see from time to time, but it brings back memories of the reality of those old beasts, but I sure wouldn't want one again. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Yes, I know what you mean........times have changed for us old geezers. If it were me, I'd opt to renew my bike with newer motor, paint etc, or find a low mileage used. There is no substitute. Those naked bikes just don't have the wind protection for longer hauls. Maybe the Honda ST1300 is worth a look as it is faired and has a standard sitting position. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

When accelerating there were times when the bike just "came on" a sudden burst of power; then back to what it was. Sounds like the engine rpm's were not high enough in the power band for the 'what it was' level of acceleration. Try shifting down to get the rpm's up for the sudden burst of power. That's the nature of the beast -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA