Peder_y2k

Engine generator cover must be removed for servicing the grommet. OK...Since the grommet is not available, one would cut the 3 white generator wires at the connector, then work them out of the grommet. Then clean the wires and grommet with carb/brake cleaner and also the grommet seat areas. Once clean, use shrink tubing properly applied to the wire where it would pass thru the grommet and work the wire back into the grommet. The shrink tubing makes a tighter seal for the wire. Once all is back in place, seal the wires on both sides with high temp oil resistant RTV ....just enough to cover. When assembling the side cover back on the engine, use the same RTV to seal the grommet to the engine and cover. Replace the wire connector with either soldered connections (best), or use a screw terminal block with soldered wire terminals. Don't use any push connectors. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Rotate the tire with your hand lightly rubbing the tire and feel for any indication of a 'raised' section that may indicate tread separation. Also look for any misalignment or irregularities in the tread. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

........ sealing with high temp RTV. Sorry, that does not work. Need to replace rubber grommet with new.....OR..... shim the inside of the grommet around each wire and then seal with RTV. Shrink tubing could be used as a shim. Do it right, or do it over -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You tightened the clamp springs? The fuse clamp is now likely broken as they don't like being tightened. If broken, need to find a way to attach the fuse to the remaining clamp end, maybe use a paper clip.... or something similar. Time for a new fuse block using the newer blade type. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

That's only part of it..........still need the mount bars to attach the backrest to. Marklin also made one that is similar. Suggest you continue to search being patient as the right choice for you will eventually show up. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

After a little internet search of CL, I see several yr. 2000 low mile units for $3950. I think $4500 is too much. rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/4464281122.html toledo.craigslist.org/mcy/4466292504.html detroit.craigslist.org/okl/mcy/4472790539.html florencesc.craigslist.org/mcy/4466861843.html -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Me too! I second the vote for the Kaw 1200......all say 'aye'.......any 'nay's..........don't hear any. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Your public profile indicates you have an '83, and those early models '83-'85 have a weak rear spline design that strips out when not perfectly maintained. Usually, both the axle and splined coupler need replacing. More cost effective to upgrade to the '86-'93 improved design. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

There is a clip-on cover for the tape deck, but none for the radio and CB. That one cover is more designed for the bike being parked outside in the elements for long periods. A short burst of rain won't hurt the tape deck as long as the cassette door is closed. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Ever so slight decrease in passing power....... more noticeable if riding two-up. Mild change in power is easily accommodated. If you are not very familiar with your bike, you won't even notice the difference. Naturally, this all depends on how well the engine is tuned i.e. carb synch, clean filters, valve adjustment, good plugs, etc. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zbIEL8sU-I]The BMW K1200LT. A Video for New and Prospective Owners - YouTube[/ame]

Regarding the 'knocking' and previous bearing replacement, it is possible the bearing fitment size was incorrect resulting in either excess bearing clearance, or, not enough clearance for oil flow. As an experiment, try a temporary addition of a quart of 90wt gear oil added after draining 1 quart of the crankcase oil. This will result in a thicker oil that can take up any excess clearance and temporarily quiet the knocking..... if and only if there is excess bearing clearance that is the issue. If no change in sound, then it is not an excess clearance issue so change the oil to eliminate the 90/30 mix and get back to normal oil. Another source of knocking on decel could be slack timing chain/s due to worn or damaged chain guides. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

That is the CLASS system fuse line. Energized by the ignition switch in the ACC position. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

This looks like fresh oil from here. If this really is fresh, then I suspect the cover gasket and/or the o-ring underneath is leaking. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Pump has lost its prime. Disconnect line from carbs and direct open line into container, then turn on pump. With no flow resistance, fuel should begin flowing. Then you can refit the line to the carbs and they will refill and the pump will stop clicking. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

It's been my understanding that the small 'post' was designed to cause the needle to be offset in the jet orofice...... 'kicking' the needle to the side of the jet so as to not run down the middle. Have no idea about the reasoning for this other than to prevent swirling of the fuel like water rushing down a drain. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Might also be leaking from the gear indicator sender. The o-ring may have failed. Also possible is the clutch push rod seal at the crankcase, right next to the gear indicator sender. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Hey Puc........ I think you are spot on about the jets being worn out-of-round due to high mileage. It would be a great investment to buy new replacement needles and jets. As long as you're buying carb parts, get new pilot circuit needles, emulsifier tubes, fuel inlet valves, along with all the o-rings for the carbs. My '83 with 50K miles delivered 42-46 mpg consistently riding two-up before I sold it, and my current '88 gets 45-49 mpg two-up, and neither bike has modified needle position. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Mounting new mc tires manually is easy. Done it many times. Dismounting old tires is the problem. Same for car/truck tires. I can mount new 235/75-15 truck tires with my bare hands in one smooth motion (wheel clamped). -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If you really wanted into the State Park, you could have left your tommy gun at the office for them to play with, and retrieved it on your way out....but you didn't want to compromise your getup.... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Get the seller to sign a contract in your favor that is enforceable in your state, then order it. Use a an international escrow service for payment. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Those tires look like a blowout lookin' for a place to happen........ -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The pilot screw adjusts a small mix of combined fuel and air flow. Turning 'in' (C-W) leans the mix, conversely turning 'out' (CC-W) enrichens the mix. This mixture functions into mid-range (around 2500-3000 RPM) and thereafter the main jet takes over all fuel mix function. When these small circuits are compromised with dirt, driveability issues arise, such as hesitation of throttle response, unstable engine acceleration at low RPM, uneven running, 'thumpy' exhaust sound, exhaust popping on decel, etc. Carb synch is also very important for proper operation. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

SEAFOAM use causes deposits to form on the spark plug because it is cooler than the combustion chamber surfaces causing condensation of the crap heavy gasses. These deposits will short circuit the plugs. I clean the plugs with a spark plug cleaner after any concentrated fuel system cleaner usage. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

"4. mix screws at about 2-1/2 turns. has occasional minor lack of initial response to throttle twist only sitting still, like this morning - may need to continue tweaking mix screws." Lack of initial response is a lean low speed mix...... turn the pilot screws out maybe 1/2 turn..... or even more. Should have immediate response and no exhaust popping on decel. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA