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SaltyDawg

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Everything posted by SaltyDawg

  1. Ok Radio Shack it the place for the 90 degree cable. I just disconnected the aux cable from the cassette inside the fairing and ran the cable to that. I also spliced a Cigarette lighter receptacle into the aux wiring inside the fairing about 8 inches from the aux connector. I then ran the power cable into the faring and plugged it into the receptacle. You can put a splitter on if you want to but unless you plan on using the aux connection near the cassette then I wouldn't waste the time or money. I found that by putting a splitter on I ended up burning up the sat radio when I used my MP3 player and forgot to shut the radio off first. It happened several times and then I noticed a gradual static build up in the sat radio until it died all together. I pulled the split connection out before I installed my new radio. It might have been just dumb luck that it died when it did, but I don't plan on using that anyway. If you plug the power supply into the fairing connector you will experience a lot of restarts of the radio. I had my GPS plugged into there and it shut off every time I hit a bump. That's why I recommend putting it into the fairing. As a side note I am using a Roady 2 home antenna instead of the stock magnetic one. I have it attached to the brake reservoir with velcro. It's been pretty good so for year now. It's bigger and I am able to angle it towards the South if needed when reception gets bad.
  2. I have not tried it yet, but in looking at the end of the bars you will need to get the liquid bar snake because the nuts for the weights will not allow you to pull a bar snake through. I am seriously considering it though. When I road down to Florida in October my hands were numb for 2 weeks afterwards.
  3. Everyone has a preference as to which they like. You will get a lot of opinions. I like the Commanders and go through SW Moto. I have never had a problem with either. Got 18,000 miles out of the last rear tire. I would advise that if you decide to switch to Commanders to change both at the same time. I have spoke to 2 different MC dealers who say that they should not be run with a different tire on the other wheel. I can't vouch for this either way since both times I switched to Commanders I did front and rear at the same time. I expect to get 2 to 1 on the front tire wear.
  4. If you really like the grips and are having problems try a bar snake.
  5. If it's still available I would like the stock rear end. I am considering that mod also. Thanks.
  6. I bought a pair of Warm and Safe heated gloves for $125.00, Warm and Safe heated socks for $50.00, and a dual portable heat-troller for $100.00 and so far it is been the best cold weather investment I have made. Took 10 minutes to connect to the bike and being able to control the exact amount of heat to the gloves and the socks separately is absolutely wonderful. I really considered battery gloves and socks, but for the most part they are on or off and then there is the problem with batteries. The gloves have heating elements that cover the back of the hand as well as the fingers and double elements around the thumbs. The socks have elements all around the foot, over and under the toes. I use a pair of thin dress socks under the heated socks to cushion the heating elements on the bottom of my feet. I did have to return the gloves because they ran a tad small and I needed a bigger size, but the new ones will be sent out Tuesday.
  7. I don't have a picture of it but, I have a small leather tank bag that has 3 pockets and a cell phone holder. It has magnets that hold it to the tank. Never had a problem with it. In fact I am using the cell phone holder to hold the heat-troller for my gloves and socks. If I can get a good pic of it I will post. It looks something like this: http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=42&Category_ID=3&manufacturer_ID=361&product_ID=13792
  8. That black mat is a trunk bib and from what I can tell that's purely decoration. The rack in the picture is NOT the Yamaha rack. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=42&Category_ID=3&manufacturer_ID=66&product_ID=2082
  9. Nice Scoot, I like what they did with the second trunk. That gives me an idea. Now all I need to do is find a silver 99 trunk lid and I'm in business.
  10. I guess it would depend on which trunk rack you put on it. From what I have heard the JC Whitney (Show Chrome I think) rack for the venture does have a tendency to crack the lid, mainly because there is no way to spread the load since the legs sit directly on the trunk lid. The Yamaha rack on the other hand has a 1" flat bar going between the front and rear legs spreading the load over a larger area. In either case people also have to remember not to close the trunk and latch it by pushing down on the trunk rack. I have the Yamaha rack on and have had about 30lbs on it for over 2000 miles and it held up just fine. I wouldn't even think about doing that with the other rack.
  11. We will find out about bike week this May, we are scheduled to stay there for a week to get an idea of whether or not we want to purchase. I understand it's a use it or lose it deal after the 4 years. Good thing for me I earn 8 hours vacation every 2 weeks and I intend on using it from now on. We have plans on the wife semi-retiring in June and only working part time at a motorcycle apparel/parts store, and they already know that we won't be in town for Spring Bike Week every year.
  12. Thanks V7Goose, lots of great info. I will keep it in mind. I am looking at a 5 star points resort in Myrtle Beach. Mainly for Spring bike week and because we love Myrtle Beach. It's just the wife and myself, no kids. We are finally starting to live our lives again and take much needed vacations. I like the idea of taking more vacations. I also like the points system because it's not use it or lose it. You can save up to 4 years before you lose anything. I don't know, my head starts spinning around when I think about it. I am researching heavily so as to not make any mistakes, but I'm sure I will make a few along the way. Thanks again, Wayne
  13. Are time shares really worth the trouble? We are looking into getting into one with the points system. South Beach Resort in Myrtle Beach. Gonna check it out during Bike Week this May.
  14. That's sharp, my only concern is with the weight. How much does it weigh full? Did you have to reinforce the trunk lid and hinges any?
  15. Yeah I heard the same thing that's why I went with Warm and Safe for my heated clothing. They have a lifetime warranty on the heating elements. I think they are a subsidiary of Gerbing.
  16. Running 100 watts will only require 8.3 amps so a 15 amp fuse will be fine but I would suggest running that through a relay and not hard wired to your lights and then to ground. To figure amperage divide the total watts by the voltage in this case 100 watts by 12Vdc and you get 8.3 amps you always want to go 30% above that to allow for the initial surge when the lights come on. I personally wouldn't run a 20 amp fuse on that circuit because if a wire shorts it might actually weld itself to the frame where the short is before blowing the fuse. Running a 20 amp fuse would require more than 240 watts to blow it. Bad things can happen before that fuse blows. Just my 2 Cents worth. In looking at your question "This is why high power driving lights can be wired into the existing wires like a dealer does? and still run off a 15 amp fuse?" They are using the headlight circuit to toggle a relay which will then allow 12vdc from a different source to turn the lights on. The relay will draw minimal amps. If you were to wire into that circuit then you will be putting 13.3 amps on a 15 amp fuse and it will blow, maybe not right away but it will blow in the near future. In doing so you will lose all lights and that's a bad thing at night. Run the new lights completely independent of the headlight circuit. That way if one then goes out you still have lights. One thing to remember, your headlight is not the only thing on that fuse if you are talking about a RSV. The front parking lights, the dash and some of the indicator lights are also on that circuit. Not sure if the turn signals are I would have to look in the manual and I don't have that with me. So that 15 amp fuse is covering more than just 60 watts.
  17. WoW that is amazing. So glad that you are ok and doing better. That's a pretty big clot on the brain. Your wife is a life saver. Keep that angel close to your side.
  18. Jeff I just might take you up on that, I like the idea of having only one key. I will get up with Rick and see about getting a new switch pronto. I'll let you know. Thanks Wayne
  19. Thanks for the replies everyone. Rode home yesterday and to work this morning 100 miles and no incidents. I haven't had a chance to really get into checking things. Will to a good once over this weekend to see if I can find anything. Thanks again, Salty
  20. Yeah check around, most dealers charge $40.00 a tire around here if you don't buy from them. I found a motorcycle repair shop that does them for $25.00. Ask around. The equipment to change them yourself will run you about $400.00 if you get the Harbour Freight tire changer with motorcycle attachment and the NoMar bar and wheel balancer. Several folks have that stuff and say it's not hard to do with the right stuff. I am planning on getting that set up myself now that my wife has a bigger bike and is riding a lot more.
  21. You two were not riding faster than your guardian angel that day. So glad you guys are safe. What a mess.
  22. No sputter at all just stopped firing. I was into the throttle after just shifting to second and she just died, came to life, died again 2 seconds later, came back to life and then died completely. Not a good feeling while trying to merge into traffic.
  23. At first I thought it could be the kill switch or the kick stand interlock but if either one of those fails then the starter will not engage at all and it did and turned the bike over without a problem. It just did not fire. BTW I looked at but did not touch the kill switch while this was going on. That was the first thing I looked at and it was still on. Thanks Wayne
  24. Had a problem this morning on the way to work and I am wondering what might have happened. I ride to work pretty much everyday, had this 99 out and running in the low 20's just last week. She has never been cold natured. This morning was no exception. Temps in the low 60's started right up, normal warm up and off I went. Got to the end of the street and started to enter traffic and she died. I didn't stall her she just died. Started right up and crossed the highway into the center lane, accelerated and started to merge into traffic and just as I shifted into second she died, ran for a second, died for a sec, ran for 2 or 3 sec then died. Engine died, no fire at all. Everything else was working, lights dash warning lights, radio, everything just no engine. Tried to start and she turned over without a problem but wouldn't fire. Tried several 3 second bursts on the starter and nothing. Turned the bike off planning on walking her across the street into a parking lot to better assess the situation and then I realized it was dark and I was getting ready to push a big bike across a busy highway so I turned the key back on to get my headlight / Aux lights back on. Just for giggles I went ahead and hit the starter and she fired right up. Gingerly tested her around town before I headed on to work an hour away. While riding to work I ran through possible problems and shot down the obvious ie kickstand interlock and kill switch. What I kept coming back to was the ignition switch which I know has been a problem for some before. Only problem is I though that if the ignition switch went out that the bike was pretty much dead, no lights, no fire, no nothing. Got to work shut bike down and started her up 4 times without incident. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  25. That very thing has been done before with success, except they used a syringe with fork oil and ATF fluid if I am not mistaken.
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