.jpg.e818e18bd49ab07b632efe4e592fa8af.jpg){kind=avatar}
V7Goose
-
Posts
3,588 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by V7Goose
-
Are you saying it lose it's appearance after that?:rotf: Yes, that is EXACTLY what I am saying! By definition, something that cannot be seen has no appearance. But if you are buying it because of its beauty, you could always take a picture of it and tape that to the engine case. Goose
-
Just to keep this discussion fair and balanced, I thought I would add a couple of comments. Any implication that one upgrade kit is "better" than another is unfair. PCW has been selling us the spring upgrade kit for a fair price for many years. They were the first, and their competition does not offer anything that is better in any way. Their kit consists of all Yamaha official parts except for the upgraded spring, and they include specific instructions. In short, there is zero difference between what they sell and what is being sold in the classified, and they will spend at least as much time with you discussing the what and why of what you are doing as anyone else. They have treated us right for many years, and I think they deserve our business at least as much as anyone else does. Who you spend your money with is your business. The Barnett pressure plate is pretty - up until you put the engine cover back on. After that, it functions just as good as the PCW spring at close to double the cost. It is an excellent product, as is the kit being sold by PCW and Skydoc. If it has something that is of more value to you, by all means, give them your money. Harbor Freight sells hand tools that have a lifetime warranty. There is no shortage of people who are happy to badmouth discount products from any source. I have bought a lot of tools from Harbor Freight, as well as premium tools from name brand sources. In my opinion, some of the HF tools are excellent, and some are just Chinese junk - you need to look and touch them to decide for yourself. Personally, I have the HF inch-lb torque wrench and feel it is excellent value for the money. But just like any other product sold, there is no guarantee that you won't find a defective one. Goose
-
I have never found the air pressure to change in either my rear shock or front forks. Actually, an air leak in the rear shock of a 2nd gen is not common at all. The know failure of these shocks is OIL leak, and most of the time when a shock has completely failed, it continues to hold air and bounce fine, just has absolutely no dampening, so it is like riding a pogo stick. I'd suggest you check to make sure the Schrader valves in the air inlet for each shock/fork is tight. To check for leaks at the valve, just wipe a bit of spit on the valve stem with your finger tip - it will form a film over the top of the valve stem for a long time if there is no air leak there. Goose
-
Oh hell, now yer gonna make me dig into this and see if I ever finished it all! Goose
-
I am sorry, but this information is not correct. The carb overflow tubes on a 2nd gen are routed forward to the opening of the air filters. Those four tubes below the bike are two drains from the air plenums (where the crankcase breather is vented), the tank overflow, and the coolant overflow. An occasional drop of oil from those air plenum drains is completely normal, but overfilling the engine with oil will make it much worse. And there is a very specific reason why one of those drain tubes always has more oil/dirt crud on it than the other one! See my detailed explanation in post #11 in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56649&highlight=vent+tubes Seafoam is an excellent product which will do great things to keep your carbs clean in normal use, but it is not needed and will do absolutely nothing for the issue with oil dripping from those vents. Goose
-
I have bought and installed many heavy duty clutch spring kits from PCW Racing - $70 http://www.pcwracing.net/page10.htm Their product has always been perfect and their service fantastic. You have to order by phone. When you talk to them they will ask if you want just the spring kit or all the friction plates too - in my opinion there is absolutely no need to replace the friction disks unless you have completely burnt them out (and I have not seen that on a Venture or RSTD in normal use). Goose BTW - this replacement is VERY easy to do, but do NOT attempt it without an inch-lb torque wrench! The spring bolts have a very low torque spec, and it is unwise to try and use a calibrated wrist instead of the right torque wrench.
-
Still thinking on this - most alarm systems that have a cutout feature to disable the vehicle also have a switch to bypass the cutout so you are not left stranded if the alarm malfunctions or your alarm remote is lost. So look closely under the seat, behind the seat, inside the fairing, and around the back of the fairing for a switch - that may get you going again. Goose
-
OK, that is normal operation. If the check engine light goes off after about 2 seconds and stays off, then the self diagnostics are not seeing any problem. Since the neutral light is staying on, that eliminates the side stand interlock as being a possible problem. At this point, the new information about the alarm system seems to be the prime suspect (since this bike did not come with one). Many alarm systems also have an engine or starter cutout, so that is what I would suspect. Unfortunately, there is no way for me to know anything about that alarm system, or what problems might have been caused by whoever installed it. I'd suggest you are going to need to find someone who can troubleshoot your bike in person. Goose
-
Trying to help here, but not getting anywhere. I'll ask one more time ... Specifically, what lights are on when you turn the key on and BEFORE you touch the starter? After you hit the starter button, you have said the oil and temp lights come on, but you have not told us if any other lights are also on while the butten is pressed. I am not trying to be a PIA about this - the answers to these questions are important to have real chance of pinpointing your problem without being able to see the bike myself. If you can provide the information, I might be able to help. If not, well, there is nothing more I can do. Maybe somebody else can guess better than I can. Goose
-
If you hope we can help you without actually seeing your bike, you need to provide all the information we ask for. What lights are on BEFORE you hit the starter button? Then when you hit the starter button, are the oil and temp lights the ONLY lights on? Goose
-
Need a bit more clarity here - you say the "2 red lights go OUT . . ." - When you hit the starter button, the oil and engine temp red lights should come ON. So you need to be a bit more specific with us about what dash lights are on when the key is turned on, and what ones are on when you push the starter button. But make sure your bike is in neutral if it is on the side stand. If it is not, the two red lights will come on as they are supposed to when you hit the starter button, but it won't do anything else. If the kill switch is on, then you will only see the temp light when you hit the starter button. Goose
-
My E3s have cupped a little on the sides, but never had that on Venoms or other tires I have run. Goose
-
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg)
Riding Since '03 - Still Have Questions
V7Goose replied to lshafer's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
You CANNOT hurt this bike by revving it. Period. The stock rev limiter is at 6,000 RPM, and the actual red line for the engine is easily around 8,000. So even if you run it to the rev limiter every time in every gear (neither recommended nor necessary), you have nothing to worry about. But like I said above, you really do need to run it up there a couple of times to understand how different you should be riding this bike. Most of the power in this engine is above 3,000 RPM. Just going from memory, 3,000 RPM is around 70 MPH in 5th (that is why you cannot roll on the throttle hard at 55 in 5th). You CAN ride it all day long in 5th gear anywhere from 40 MPH to 120 MPH, just do not try to accelerate too fast in 5th gear unless you are running over 65. Shifting points - the owner's manual has suggested shifting points in it - but DO NOT EVER try to use them. I have no idea what drugged out fool wrote those down, but this bike CANNOT be ridden in any reasonable fashion with the shift points shown in the owner's manual! For MODERATE acceleration, here are some good shift points to shift INTO the next gear: 40 MPH => 3rd gear 50 MPH => 4th gear 60 MPH => 5th gear Of course, it is fine to upshift sooner if you are done accelerating (or are simply going to keep pace with the usual city traffic). And if you are accelerating hard, you should run it much igher in each gear than those points I gave you above. Remember, 3rd gear will take you all the way to 96 MPH before you hit the rev limiter at 6,000 RPM, so there is no reason to shift into 4th at 50 MPH if you are trying to move out quickly! Goose -
Riding Since '03 - Still Have Questions
V7Goose replied to lshafer's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Welcome to the group! You have a nice bike there, but everything in your post says to me that you still do not know how that engine needs to be ridden. These bikes have LOTS of power, but only if you quit riding it like a v-twin. the first thing you need to do is get over this fear of RPM on the bike - take it to a freeway and snap the throttle wide open in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears - hold it there until you feel the bike falter when the rev limiter is hit - that is the only way you are finally going to see what the bike can do. Of course, you almost certainly won't feel the rev limiter in 3rd, since it won't hit until you get to 96 MPH! When you are cruising at 55 and want to get moving quick, you MUST kick the bike down - 4th maybe, but 3rd is best, depending on just how fast you want to move out. If you try and grab a fist full of throttle at 55 in 5th, all you get is pounding and shaking while the bike tries to get out of its own way. I personally do not think there is any need or even desire for additional performance from this bike. I love the stock engine, so no way I want to waste money modifying the intake or anything else, and I HATE obtrusive noise and the "look at me" attitude it shows, so I absolutely love the stock pipes - they sound great and perform excellently. But of course, not everyone agrees with that. Tires - you do not say what tires came on the bike - if they are Dunlop D404, they are average tires, and you are probably getting fairly close to time for change. If they are the horrible Brickstones, you have suffered magnificently to live with them for as long as you have. In fact, it is rare that anyone can get 10,000 miles out of the Brickstone rear tire. And when you do put good tires on there, you will be totally blown away at how much better it handles! Goose -
Well, based on that comment, maybe there is something to what he said. But I still don't buy it! Goose
-
Well, maybe he knows something, and maybe he don't (poor English intended) - but in my opinion, I would not let that person touch anything I owned. Doesn't sound to me like he knows what he is talking about. Goose
-
So what do you think, did I get my money's worth out of these pads?
V7Goose replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
Just keep a close eye on them - cheap pads get REAL expensive when they bite into the rotor because they wore faster than you expected! Goose -
So what do you think, did I get my money's worth out of these pads?
V7Goose replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
You are right - 6K on rear pads ain't good, even with stock Yamahaha pads. However, rear pads do wear pretty fast on the RSV, with the original stock pads being down to metal between 10K-12K pretty common. So if you use the rear brake a lot, I can see them being shot by 6K. EBC HH pads on the rear will have triple the life of stock pads. In addition, most of us know that the inside rear pad usually wears at twice the rate of the outside rear pad. There is no logic to explain this, since the calipers have active pistons on both sides, but it is VERY VERY common - almost 100% of the bikes, in my experience (but a few people have said theirs wear evenly). In contrast, I have never seen front pads that did not wear evenly. As for the question of extra rotor wear from HH pads - I do not see it, nor have I heard about it. Goose -
So what do you think, did I get my money's worth out of these pads?
V7Goose replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
FYI - brake squeal is generally not caused by the type of pad material - is is the pads vibrating against the pistons. A small amount of silicone RTV or any of the commercial anti-squeal stuff applied to the back of the pads will almost always stop it. Goose -
So what do you think, did I get my money's worth out of these pads?
V7Goose replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
Did you get your money's worth? Not unless they were REAL cheap. Front pads on an RSV should go at least 30,000 miles (and I am a heavy front brake user) - even with stock Yamahaha pads. EBC HH pads much more. But you said those were EBC organic pads - I cannot say if the paltry 17K miles is normal for them or not - never have tried them. You may want to consider the HH pads. Goose -
-
Yes, the Morgan Carbtune does have springs - take it apart and you will see. the steel rods do not "float" in anything. They are attached to the springs with a nut on the threaded end of the rod that is locked in place. I HAVE been able to calibrate one of those tools by manipulating the spring, but this is not an approved method. IMHO, the term "float" cannot be applied to the function of the rods - they just rattle around inside the tubes. In fact, the documentation you get with that tool specifically tells you that the rods MUST be rattling (or vibrating - can't remember the exact word they use) at all times, since that is the only way you know it is not stuck to the side of the tube. And all six of those tools that I have used, including one that I unpacked straight from Morgan, stick constantly. You are free to consider it a precision instrument if you like, but I find it a piece of junk with nothing precise about it. I provided the technical details to help others understand why I have that opinion and decide if they want to believe it or not. But it is still just that - an opinion. But the bottom line, and why I posted in this thread in the first place, is that you can NEVER assume that a sync tool with multiple mechanisms, gauges, rods, tubes, etc. is reading the same on each cylinder UNLESS you have checked it on a manifold to a single vacuum source. It is not important if you like the tool I like or not - just check whatever tool you choose to use so that you will actually know if it is reading the same on all ports. ALL of them, including the Carbtune, DO need to be checked. Goose
-
Yes, stainless steel rods and long floppy springs. And because it sucks air through it, it gets contaminated inside, which affects its accuracy. If I owned one, I sure wouldn't like to pay shipping and wait for a return to/from England, but you are right - that is the only option they give you. They claim it needs no calibration and state in the documentation that it CANNOT be calibrated. But they are clearly wrong when new ones come out of the box not reading the same on all four rods. This is absolutely not a precision instrument - the springs will change temper at different rates over time, so even if you happen to get one that is properly calibrated at first, it won't stay that way. It may last six months or six years (or sixty), I don't know; no two springs will change calibration at the same rate, but it WILL change. And when you consider the contamination issue, regularly checking that tool on a single manifold is much more important than it is with other types of sync tools. Goose
-
As several others have already noted in this thread, you should not be thinking of touching the carbs on your bike until you find out what is wrong with your vacuum readings. It is impossible for you to have zero vacuum on one cylinder unless there is either a big hole in the intake tract for that cylinder, or there is a cylinder problem. For zero vacuum, you would either have to have a hole in the piston or the exhaust valve is staying very far open on the intake stroke. The only way the carburetor could be causing zero vacuum at the vacuum port is if the slide is stuck wide open. Much more likely that either of those possibilities would be the vacuum port is plugged or something wrong with your tool. Most of that also applies equally to the cylinder that shows very low vacuum. If you want to quickly verify if a cylinder actually has vacuum, just take off the air intake from the carbs and briefly place your hand or a piece of paper over each carb while the engine is running. If the paper is sucked up to the carb, there IS vacuum. And if the sound of the engine changes at the same time, then the cylinder was actually getting power from that carb. Goose
-
This procedure is not appropriate for a 2nd gen. I know nothing about the ancient 1st gens, so I cannot comment on it for those bikes. In addition, I would generally discourage anyone form touching the mixture screws on any machine unless they fully understand how they should be set correctly on a specific motor. No, the carbtune is not a manometer. In fact, it measures neither vacuum nor pressure - it actually measures the volume of air flowing thorough it. ALL tools that use multiple displays to measure vacuum (or an approximation of vacuum, like the Carbtune) need to be checked for calibration by using a common manifold connected to one vacuum source (a pump is best, but single carb connection can be used). The Carbtune cannot be adjusted for calibration like the gauges can, but I have seen them come from the factory out of calibration. Even though the reading cannot be changed, you need to know if the tool you are using reads identical on each port so you can take the actual reading into account when you are setting the carbs. Goose