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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Have you found the Plug, about 1/2 way between the " Pick Up " coils and the TCI, 6 Pin Plug. I know you said you did the Resistance checks, However, lots of folks have had problems with that plug. Its located, left side, just about under your left Knee as you sit on the bike. 5 small wires going thru the Plug. Tug on the wires going into and out of both sides of the Plug. Some folks have found the wires to pull right out of the crimps. Also, clean the pull apart pin contacts, and apply some dialectric Greese, or use electrical contact cleaner on them. --- Dry out your TCI, and Resolder all the connections to the Circuit Board, from the TWO large Plugs on the TCI Case. --- Also, clean and apply dialectric greese to All the pins, on Both of the TCI plugs. Also, to consider, you might have a Primary Winding, of the Ignition Coil, that s in the process of failing. Even though, the resistance reading is good, there might be a problem developing inside of that Coil. It might Be Arching Over Internally. --- The Resistance , Thru, the Coil Primary Winding, should be, 3.8 Ohms. I see you measured that. --- The two small wires going to the Coil, have a plug about 6 inches from the Coil. Find this plug, open it and Clean contacts. Not likly your problem, but worth doing. Also tug on the wires into and out of this small plug, The Crimps on the Pins might be comeing loose !!!
  2. GeorgeS
    Most members agree, the NGK, stock number plug is the best. I would just stay with the NGK's.
  3. GeorgeS
    Before you give up on that TCI, with cover off, put it in oven at about 110 deg. F for a couple of hours. And resolder all the Plug Connections to the Circuit Board, no matter what they look like. Use rosin core solder, and 10 Watt Pen iron. Its worth a try, before spending money on another one. Be sure to use an electrical contact cleaner on all electrical pins involved in the circuits -- ( ie. CRC 2-26, blue lable can ) Also, remove the plug wire on that cylinder, and nip off the Ends of the 7MM copper plug wire, and re - install. Also, check the resistance reading of the PLUG CAP. should be 5000 ohms.
  4. GeorgeS
    If you have any way to join a Credit union. Check out their rates. My CU, is offering any type of vehical loan, at 4.75 precent.
  5. GeorgeS
    I got the leak on the left side, also, I finally gave up on it!! Nothin is perfect, as they say.
  6. GeorgeS
    The two top cables from handle bar to the Throttle joint, fairly easy. Open it up, and let oil gravity feed down slowly. But it will only run down to the " throttle joint " Which is located, Under the Upper left fairing. ( You have to completly remove the fairing to get to it. ( sorry ) The " throttle joint ' assembly may need to be opend up and lubricated. I did that on mine at about 50K. It needed greese. But was not completly dry. ( see page 7-137 ) of the service manual. The Two lower sections of cable, ( much shorter ) probably don't need lube. Be sure to examine the " Pull Cable " at the lft Fwd carb for any sign of cable fraying. However, carefully check the Linkage assembly parts that connect all 4 carbs together. Your problem might be some friction in the Linkage ( see page 2-12) of service manual. Lubricate all those parts first.
  7. GeorgeS
    Dunlop E-3 !! NOT, the D-404
  8. GeorgeS
    Might want to run some Sea-Foam, before you assume anything else is wrong. Might be some moisture in gas, Use some HEET. Or, it might be time for a new set of plugs.
  9. GeorgeS

    Rain Question

    GeorgeS replied to BradT's topic in Watering Hole

    My 2 cents worth to your question, would be in any situation where you can't see the road and your on a bike, I would back off and take the first safe turn off I come to and get off the Road. And wait out the situation.
  10. GeorgeS
    Pull up most any Yamaha dealer's, website. You can access the IPC. Most dealers will ship the parts. Or, just call to order the part. I highly reccomend replaceing the Cylinder!! with new one. If bikes been sitting that long the corrosion in that cylinder is going to be pretty bad. --- Be sure to drain the tank, and carb bowls !!! Also be sure to rebuild the Master, use a kit on that.
  11. GeorgeS
    Start by inspecting the Electrical connectors about 6 inches from the control head. Lightly tug on the wires on both sides of the plugs. The crimps are known to come loose. Also, clean the pins inside of the plugs. If that does not work, open up the control head, and do some resoldering where the wires connect to the circuit board. The fuse, is in a seperate holder, has plug going to it, Two, Red/Blue wires into and out of the Plug. The fuse holder has Red/Blue wires into and out of it, also.
  12. GeorgeS
    We need more of them !! And I think by now, we all know why there is a shortage.
  13. GeorgeS
    OK, I will make just one more comment as to Charging the AGM type Batteries. If you buy one, Read the INSTRUCTION Sheet, that comes with it !!!! Charging Proceedure, IS NOT, the same as what we have all learned over the years, as to charging and careing for a lead acid battery. ---- Read the Instruction Sheet !!!
  14. GeorgeS
    OK, nothing against Replaceing them. I thought the discussion was about maby replaceing them with some other type-- ?? That would just be opening up another can of worms, and lots of engineering problems. You might watch E-Bay-- I got a set of 4 , a couple years ago for about $40.00. I simply wanted to have a couple of Spares. ( I always carry a spare ) On an 0ld bike, YES, Replace them, If you suspect them. But stay with the Stock Coils, thats my only point here. Also, get some bulk, 7MM Solid Core Plug wire, and Replace that also, Also, NGK, Plug Caps, If you still have the original Plug Caps. Good idea to replace them. I also, Rewired My " Fuel Pump Relay, and Fuel Pump ". I now have a seperate "Fuse" Feeding power to these two items !! Check page 7-1 block diagram.
  15. GeorgeS
    I found an 07, ( new ) at I-90 Yamaha, in Isaquae, Wa. And, 3, 08's at another dealer in Renton, Wa. ( and one of them is Black Cherry ) ( all three of them discounted )
  16. GeorgeS
    I really don't think there is anything to be gained by going to some other type of coil. These bikes, seem to run Great, if nothing is wrong with the Ignition system. #2 coil failing Twice --- Hmmm. Strange, but could happen. Have you opened up your TCI, and done the dry out proceedure, and Resoldering of the Circuit board ?? Have you cleaned up the Plug from Pick up coils to the TCI. ?? Have you carefully checked the wires going into the TWO plugs of the TCI, for any sign of damage, or being loose in the Pins inside the plugs. Have you carefully inspected the Two wire Plug, going to the #2 Ignition Coil ?? ( maby a dirty connection in that plug. ) Check page 7-1, Block Diagram. Note, the " Gy " wire going to the fuel pump relay, and Tachometer. Possibly some problem on this wire, causeing the Coil not to fire correctly, ??? Just Speculateing here ---- Maby a problem in the Fuel Pump Relay ??? dragging down the voltage on the Primary Winding, --- Not likley, but you never know with electrical stuff. Also, consider, your Pick Up Coils, and the Enroute Plug from the Pick Up coils going to the TCI. ( Have you checked, and cleaned that plug ? )
  17. GeorgeS
    If you look hard, you might even find an 07 left over. I know there is at least one here in the Seattle area. ( Its black ) Price should be about 12K Plus shipping and Tax, if you can find one.
  18. GeorgeS
    ---OK, you Might have a bad battery ---- ----You might have some End User Device on the Bike Drawing Current when the bike is sitting ---- Your Alternator ( or part of charging system, might be bad ) and not charging the battery. ((( To check this, Read the DC Voltage At battery at RPM of about 2000, and you should see AT LEAST, 13.8 to 14.2 VOLTS DC, ))) If Below 13 Volts you have problems with the charging system ))) You need a good digital volt meter, to take accurate readings !!! ---- Have you OPENED, and EXAMINED the 3 Wire Plug, going From the Alternator to the Rectifyer/Regulator unit ??? It has 3, #14 large wires going thru it !!!! IF NOT, Open the plug and check for Burned Up Electrical connectors. Especially do this if you have LOW Charging Voltage. ---- Have you Disconnected BOTH ENDS OF BOTH BATTERY CABLES, AND CLEANED THEM ?????, If not, remove cables, at the Starter, and the FWD corner of engine block. CLEAN AND RESOLDER THE END STUDS OF THE CABLES.
  19. GeorgeS
    Measure Voltage, with Nothing hooked up to it. If you see about 12.5, then charge with your 10 amp rate for about 5 hours. Let it sit for an hour, then if fully charged, it should read 12.8 . After you have it to the FULL Charge state, then use a trickle charger if bike is going to sit unused for a long period of time. The bottom line in all this is --- AGM and Lead Acid batteries, are TWO Different Animals !!! Proper Charging Proceedure is NOT The Same!!!! And Voltage Levels are NOT THE SAME. You cannot measure the Specific Gravity of Fluid in an AGM, so you HAVE to USE the Voltage Level the Determine the STATE OF CHARGE !!! ( AGM ) --- 12.4 V is about 40 Percent of Full Charge State ( AGM ) --- 12.8 V is FULL Charge State. ON a LEAD ACID battery, (( 12.2 Volts )) MIGHT, be fully Charged, But to be sure you have to use a Hydrometer, to Measure the Specific Gravity of the Fluid, to be Sure.
  20. GeorgeS
    You said it was at 11.4 volts. Ok, that means its way below 25 percent charged. If we assume there was not problem, did you charge it as follows. Charge AGM type Batteries at a 6 Amp or Higher Rate for about 8 hours. Use a charger that Holds the 6 Amp Rate. DO NOT CHARGE THEM WITH A TRICKLE CHARGER !!!!!!!!!! --- IT YOU BUY AN AGM TYPE Battery, YOU ALSO HAVE TO BUY A CHARGER FOR IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To determine the State of Charge, of an AGM Type Battery you must take Voltage Reading. Odyessy, PC-680, --- Full Charge = + 12.7 to 12.8 Volts, about 1 hours after the 8 hours of charging ---------------- Half Charged, = about + 12.3 to 12.4 Volts. If it Reads. 12.2 volts like a Lead Acid bat, then The AGM Battery is BADLY In need of charging !!!!!!!!! I use my 2 - 6 Amp Car Charger, on the 6 amp rate, takes about 6 or more hours to fully charge my PC-545, I have in the Busa. I made a mistake and left Radar Det On for couple weeks, and it went Fully DEAD !! The 6 hours at 6 Amps brought it up to Full Charge. WHEN YOU GET YOUR NEW -- AGM --- BATTERY, YOU HAVE TO CHARGE IT !!!!! I don't care what Henry, or Hank, or Jake told you
  21. GeorgeS
    Rears are avialable. But Fronts are not. Look for and E II for the front. Or Avon on the Front. Check RonAyers.com ( google it ) for the E-3 They were selling them ( MU90B16 ) for about $98. That dealer is in N.C.
  22. GeorgeS
    Several outlets on E-Bay sell them. Go to their web site, Odyessy batteries .com You should be able to find local dealers there.
  23. GeorgeS
    With Everything hooked up normal. Use Digital Volt/Ohm Meter. Measure DC Voltage at Battery POS. Stud, with engine running at about 2000 RPM. You should Measure 13.6 to 14.0, or maby as high as 14.1 to 14.2. If you SEE Below 13 Volts, start to suspect the Alternator. But your battery might be going bad , and have high Internal Resistance. Is it more then 3 years Old?? SO: Check the Water Level in the Battery if its a Lead Acid. Is it above the Line ? If not add Distilled Water. Now Charge the battery at a 2 Amp rate for 6 to 8 hours with a REAL BATTERY Charger. NOT A TRICKLE CHARGER !!!!! Measure the Battery voltage about 1 hour after chargeing. Should read about 12.1 to 12.2. V, DC. Let it sit over nite, or 24 hours, Now measure the voltage again. If its gone down into the low to mid 11 Volt Range, then its on its last leg. !!! Time to get a new battery----
  24. GeorgeS
    I'm useing Mob - 1, 15W-50W, For about 3 years in both bikes, Seem's OK, Clutch don't slip. I'm Happy.
  25. GeorgeS
    I simply removed the entire Vent system. ( after one vent went down the road. ) Pulled out the louvers, and cut a piece aluminum, to fill the space. I use the area to mount Toggle Switchs for added electrical Item. ( Amp meter, and Voltmeter ) I don't miss the vent system in the Least. Also, its eaiser to work on stuff up In behind the headlight assembly. Same for the PVC heat shields on top of each cylinder bank. Don't miss them either.
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