Marcarl

There doesn't seem to be a separate photo cell, just charging cell.

No markings on the lights, and nothing on the cell either. If there is too much draw then I'll scrap the idea. Just wanted to know if there was something in all those dohickies that I could eliminate to make it constant on.

Marca would like to have some lights working on the front entry. She had picked up this setup sometime ago. Here's the issue: they flash and she wants them to stay on steady. It's charged with a photo cell, batteries are 1.2v parallel. It has an off\on switch, one charger input and two outputs. Is there someway to eliminate the flashing? Thanks for any input.

Yep,,,, been there, done that, and done that again. Not so bad when it's the front wheel,, but when it's a first gen engine out for a second gear fix,,, now that takes days,,, and I have done other things that remind of your issue. One thing I have learned to do though, is after I have the bearing installed with a 'socket' I grab a punch and carefully check the seating all the way around before I decide that it is seated properly, then I do the other checks. Sometimes I find that the bearing is not quite seated properly, even though it sounded like it was home.

I would say that depressing any cylinder would seal the push side, and no fluid would be able to come to the reservoir. I might not be all that smart though, so better minds can enlighten me. Seems that the whole idea is for the master to push fluid down the pipe, and that can only happen if the pipe is sealed at the time of use. I think the master needs to be in the rest position for anything like this to work.

Hey Pat,,, keep this thread going, or we will miss you again.

It all depends on when and where. It has to be completely safe to do so without being an inconvenience to somebody else, who might in turn be the cause of another procession. I think it's a nice gesture to do when able, but I really don't think anybody in the procession cares whether you do or don't, but they would care if you caused an incident and it involuntarily involved the procession.

A bad battery can cook the stator. 4 years on a battery and it's showing signs, time to replace before it gets expensive. This is not saying that you may not have other problems, but to get a proper read you'll need a known good battery.

Ohhh that sucks,,, I mean that Puc might not get as much snow as usual,,,,, he's such a nice guy, he deserves all he can get,,,,, maybe the rest of us can help out,, let us know,,,,, and oh, about your ankle??? that sucks as well,, kind of limits ya to your chair, and that's alright for a day or so,, but this is called an extension,,, I feel for ya, and prayers are being offered.

We have gone artificial,,,, Marca's design, Carl had to help make it. It all folds down into a 4" box.

What's that you guys is talking about,,, I know about motors, impellers, dirty water, blankets,,, but what is the other item?

I haven't heard of this problem before,, not saying it didn't happen, just that I don't really know what I'm talking about maybe. But!! The Class module does have cold solder problems, which normally would show an error message. Now these messages normally have to do with pressure sensing, so I'm not sure if there is an error for pressure release. Maybe there isn't, but that doesn't mean that there can't be a cold solder problem. Maybe take the module out and do a repair on the joints, just to be sure and to catch any future bugs.

Maybe she just figured that with all the weight on that bike, it needed a bigger tire. Now I don't know you, and haven't even seen you,,,,, I'm just sayin,, just off the top of my head.

So that's why I get to hang out with SB,,, I wondered before, but now I have it,,,, Thanks BP

Was a good time, I wouldn't change anything. When you change your may win some, and you will loose some. Just a note though, Ben's Motel 'across the street', was an alright place for us, so for us at least we found no need to travel to Springville.

It seems to me that your problem is not engine heat related, or it wouldn't start so quickly after it shuts down. It could be a plugged fuel line at the tank filter, but that seems a far stretch seeing as it takes nothing done to restart. I would do the fuel on the road test, squirting fuel into carbs immediately when it craps out. You might also check the fuses to see if anything there could be causing a break in power, loose fuse, loose wire end, loose fuse holder, corroded wire, bad fuse. How many coils does this thing have? could be a loose wire at the coil if there is only one. And yes, I would fix the ignition switch, and check the integrity of the brake light switch, side stand switch, clutch switch, and while you're at it, the kill switch. A combination of malfunction on any switch can cause problems down the line.

We are a little further north than you Pucie, and so a re a bit more familiar with the old man,,, and hey, he's a Canuck as well. I can tell you that it'll be a long time coming. You see, the old geezer doesn't sleep all summer as some think he does, he actually goes around incognito checking things out. He has seen what you done to Tweeks, and reading his mind I can tell you that he figures there is no way that the Springer would be satisfactory for you. He realizes that you would soon run out of sticker room and the leading edge of your relationship would not be near as comfortable on the pillion as she should be for all the input she has in your life. I would try,,, honestly, I would, try to convince him to disregard all the above and deliver such a nice piece of human creation to your drive,,, but,,, I happen to agree with him, so I would be a poor advocate for you.

What????? only 38????? is that what she says??? who did the counting,, and hey, you look older than that. Anyways,, just so I doesn't get in KaKa,,, Happy Anniversary, and you be blessed with many more.

Ya I suppose you cold feel bad about it,,, and hey, there's really no reason for someone to dump anything against your truck, or mine for that matter. But my philosophy is that if you don't want your vehicle to be damaged in any way, best leave it in the drive, as long as there is no tree nearby. Point is, for me anyways, are the personal feelings, not the actual happening or the return of payment for damage done. Everytime we go out we have to deal with others, and they have to deal with us, and crap does happen. Ya, buddy should have went home a lot earlier, but maybe there wasn't much to go home to and so he stayed a little long,,, still no excuse, but,,,,,,,and yes, he needs to pay,, that's called accountability.

Well I'd say we is ready,,, let it snow!

Don't know if I have your answer, but LEDs are a fussy bunch. They need the right amount of voltage to run and if they are overpowered, they'll burn out.There is a range that they will operate in, it's around 3 volts, and the closer they are to the top limit, the brighter. They come with their own circuitry to govern the voltage.

Could a feller use french fries?? they come pre-salted and mostly have 4 sides.

Looks too fine to let air through for the class system,,, just my thoughts.

Better to have washed it,,, we have ech-perience with that version.

If you cleaned the carbs then you should have had those caps off and cleaned the air mixture passage way. Those are not idle screws, they adjust the mixture at idles only. By your description, it seems to me that you have two things tat might need correction. First you need to check the routing of the throttle cables, they do NOT run over the nylon spacer in the shaft at it might seem to be, that spacer is a spacer, not a slider bearing. Second, you'll need to do a carb sync to get things right. The idle screw is on the left side, hidden under the rail that joins the two carbs, in the middle between the two. It's actually a thumb nut, usually takes two fingers to turn, one from the one hand and one from the other.