luvmy40

So, it's un saleable as is except for parts. I'd start at the top and strip it down till I found the problem, then determine if it's repaiarable and weigh the repair cost against any possible sale value as a running repaired engine. If you decide to scrap it or part it out at that point you are only out some time and I'd bet you will learn a lot in the process. Parting it out will net more $ than an outright sale, but it could take years to get rid of everything. As was stated above, these engines don't break often.

When you say "igniter" are you referring to the TCI module? If so, look at IGNITECH for an aftermarket, programmable ignition module. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/

Pinwall?https://pinwallcycle.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=honda

Don't do anything throttle related. Keep the idle at 1000-1100 rpm. Just give a half a squeeze at a time to to the vac pump. I've done this test without a vac pump, just a vacuum from my mouth. If you see any vacuum on the gauge and don't see a change in rpm, there is probably an issue with the boost sensor. Caveat: there probably is a threshold point before the boost sensor has an effect. I just don't know what that threshold is.

Testing the boost sensor is actually quite simple. Pull the vac line from the boost sensor off of whatever carb or manifold port it is attached to. Connect it to a manual vacuum pump(Mighty Vac, etc.) get the bike idling smoothly and then pull a slight vacuum with the manual pump. Be careful as you can damage the diaphragm if you pull too much vacuum. If the idle doesn't change, you either have a bad hose or a bad boost sensor, though if you can see the vacuum on the pump gauge, that pretty much eliminates the hose as the culprit.

I was thinking earlier today that I was sitting about 20 feet from from where I was sitting when the twin towers came down. I did ride my RSV to work today, so... Bitter sweet is not the right term. I don't know if there is a word that can describe what I feel on this day. Every year for the last 19. Righteous Indignation? Close. Disbelief? Unfortunately, yes. I am disheartened to know that there are those, here in my Homeland that do not remember 9/11/2001 with Moral Outrage. In fact there are members of our legislature that think of that date date as a great day. It makes me want to vomit. At the risk of crossing a line, I will turn the Left's words around and beg America to WAKE UP! WAKE UP and see what is going on, and has been going on for a very long time.

1983, Gen 1 MK1 Venture: Fastest of the ventures, lightest, Tallest(?), least cargo capacity. Arguably, the most unique of the family with quick remove luggage and the most comfortable factory seat ever design/produced for any bike, ever. 1986, Gen 1 MK2 Venture Royal: More cargo capacity, more weight less HP/Torque to the road, no quick removal of luggage, still a darn comfortable seat(same as MK1), Still quicker than the Wing and HD. 2006 Gen 2 Royal Star Venture: Still more cargo capacity, still more weight, no quick removal luggage, Different, but still very comfortable seat, Still as quick or quicker than the HD but maybe falling behind the wing a bit. I find all three iterations to be very stable at highway speeds and much easier to handle in low speed situations than any HD I have ridden. The Gen 2 , while a little lower in general has a higher center of gravity than the Gen 1 due to the more traditional gas tank configuration. The fat factory front tire makes for a slight "flop" feeling at very slow speeds and tight manuevering, while still being quite nimble for such a large bike. I had a short ride on a Gen 2 Tour Classic and found it to be much more under powered than the three Ventures I own. It looked great and was very comfortable, just lacking in the torque off idle and no real top end. I do not know if that was due to engine design or if it was just a poorly performing specimen. $0.02, YMMV:cool:

Well, I can only take credit for 2500 of those miles. I've only owned her for a couple months.

Rolled the odometer over 100,000 mi. on my way to work this morning. According to the PO, who is the original owner, the valves have never been adjusted and she purrs!

There is a spot that water sits in and it rusts from the inside out. There will be no visible rust until it just gives way.

Try pumping the rear shock up to max pressure(dont remember the number)and then putting her up on the center stand. It sure is sounding like the frame might have failed. I'd get down there and take a real good look.

They are shown briefly in this one.

Didn't go to Sturgis but: I'ts always possible, but keep in mind that a recent report from the NY Times claims that something like 70% of the positive tests for COVID19 are false positives due to the amplification process used in the most widely used test. Sure those people had the COVID19 virus present in their systems but in such small amounts that they could not have been contagious or have any symptoms. After thinking about it; It seems likely that the claim of 1 in 2 at Sturgis picking up the virus might not just be possible but maybe even likely.

Since you don't take the lid off of the rear master cylinder to fill it, you never see the bellows gasket. If the reservoir gets low it can pull the bellows down into the reservoir and severely limit the reservoir capacity. Take the lid off the MC and reshape the gasket.

I finally got to take a little time and work on the Sgian Dubh I forged. Ready for heat treating. It's still a little rough but for being ground on a POS Harbor freight 1" x 30" belt sander that's set too low and slides around on the bench, it's not too bad! I have a slightly better(still cheap) purpose built knife grinder coming but it's on a slow boat from China so no telling when it'll arrive.

I do not know if any of the '83s had the CLASS air system. If you do not have the CLASS system, the knob for the rear shock is the damper adjustment(and may be the same if it does have CLASS). It doesn't have anything to do with the air pressure in the rear shock. The air pressure is adjusted with a manual pump through the schrader valve located near the damper adjust knob.

Can you get it it up on the center stand? This is a good indicator as to the condition of the frame.The early Gen 1 frames had a tendency to rust out and break. When they do, it's darn difficult, if not impossible toe get them up on the center stand. The rear master cylinder is still available from Yamaha and Partzilla, etc. The rebuild kits are also available. You would be well advised to talk to skydoc_17 about all things brake and clutch related.

Pulled the air horns and compressor from the '06 to clean them up and found the compressor to be Tango Uniform. So I mounted a WOLO horn I had laying around on the very convenient mounting point engineered into the passenger highway peg mount that RDawson so graciously designed and fabricated. Thanks Corporal Newkirk!:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

Fixed the exhaust leak at the right side muffler clamp. Installed hand tighten bolts in the side bags. Rode about 70 miles 'cause Saturday!

I've been a two wheeled camper for many years. In my youth, I rode with a tarp wrapped around my fart sack. I'd lay the tarp out and park the FXST on the right edge. Then I'd pull the tarp over the bike and stake the edge down in a lean-to fashion. Roll the medium weather bag out and cut some Zs. Kris and I just had our first motorcycle trailer camping experience a couple months ago. Much better! Be careful. It's very easy to overestimate your cargo capacity. Still, it's nice to be able to carry a comfortable size tent and sleeping bag system without sacrificing on food and wet weather gear. The tongue mounted cooler is an added bonus. Other than the obvious (hitch and electrical connections), I didn't make any other mods to the bike for towing.

I'll let you guess which are the first and which are the last beads. A couple are just puddle runs, no filler. The real ugly ones are with no shield as I had the regulator turned off.

I picked up bottle of argon, a small portable welding table, some filler rod and got it all set up this evening. After a half hour of playing around with a #5 cup, 3/32 red electrode and a couple 1/4" mild steel coupons, I have determined I need a lot more practice! This is the very first time I have ever attempted TIG. It's more difficult to maintain the arc length than I thought it would be. I also tend to get a little too much lean going from time to time. I did pretty good with adding filler. That isn't too different from oxyacetylene technique. I think I need to up my amperage a bit and speed my travel up a smidge. A couple times, my coupon was glowing cherry at the end of my run. GOOD TIMES!!!

Thanks! Just ordered a set. Not exactly like yours. I got the cheap set with no hardware.

It IS an addiction! Latest Update: 1981 Seca 750 1982 Maxim 750 1983 Venture 1986 Venture Royale and then, 2006 Royal Star Venture

Puc, WOW! See the Puddle! Wow! That is exactly what I meant when I was talking about knowing what the heat is doing and where it's going. As usual, you stated it better and just helped everyone who stumbles onto this thread that I started as a Brag/Boast/Look What I found thing. I have always been told"Learn Gas before Arc. Learn AC stick before MIG. Learn Mig before TIG. As I said, I'm far from expert at any of them but can be periodically competent when I need to. I'm hoping that having a quality welder will encourage me to practice more and grow as a fabricator. I know having the forge has been a great learning experience in the few short weeks since I fired it up. The one thing I don't like about the TigPro is that it does not have AC TIG so, no aluminum. I then did a little more reaserch on the Omni Pro welder and found it doesn't have AC TIG either. You have to use an aluminum wire feed gun with it. I'm glad I didn't pass this up for the Omni now.