syscrusher

The link Donvito provided is a good one. When I welded mine with a wire welder I finished off either side by grinding all of the galvanizing off of two washers for the 1/2" bolt I used and then welding one to each side of the stand to give it a nice flatness and to hold excessive filler material. I then had to grind away a lot of material to fit it into the machined channel, so probably get the smallest 1/2" washers you can find. Maybe 7/16 would be a better choice since you'll drill it out later anyway. I had a nice 1/2" shoulder bolt with 3/8" thread that I used to locate the broken tab first when welding, after grinding away the bent and rough material that prevented a good fit and running a 3/8 nc tap through the threads of the stand. When welding on the washers later I used my shoulder bolt on the thread side to center the washer and welded it and then through the tabs and back in the threads to weld the face washer on. I didn't drill through the threads until I was all done fitting it but you could probably use a bolt of the size you want and skip the intermediate stuff. Pics and more info here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?48342-Side-stand-bolt-solution&p=933178#post933178

So you're talking about establishing coop parts collectives in local areas? I like it, but I've got no extra room here. Maybe someone in the Omaha area with a pole barn would volunteer?

I like your solution Dingy, thanks for the bump. I was going to replace the broken bolt with another very hard shoulder bolt but it also thins down where the threads are. I bought a 1/2" grade 8 bolt which meant I had to drill the frame dropout but the difference between 12mm (0.472) and .5 inches is less than .03 inches so no big loss. Going SAE I was able to buy the metal locknuts for the project and it was all less expensive than metric. Of course when the tab is already broken off of the stand not welding isn't an option. They say "Go big or go home." but once I got it home I didn't want to stay there so I did a little welding and a lot of grinding. I made it really big but then I probably ground off just slightly more than I absolutely had to to fit in the recess allowed for it's movement. I had some confusion as to which part of it wasn't fitting for a little bit. I didn't want this to ever happen again as one might assume from looking at my elbow. I had been thinking that the bottom of it was bending and I wanted to prevent that so it now has a little extra bracing there too. I wish there was a list somewhere on the site of all of these "GOTCHAS" that have been sorted out from experience. Something like a safety mod checklist to save others the pain of learning about this the hard way first.

Valuable info indeed! A local mechanic friend told me the valves only need to be done once at about 25K or so. After that I wouldn't see anything significant when checking them. At 265K you would be more than 10 valve adjustments behind most people would say. My gen 1.2 has just 30K now. I plan to do an adjustment sometime this winter and then maybe not again for a while. I should call it Tweaks for all of the work I've had to do to it already at it's young age of 22. You must be really rapping out first to avoid lugging third!

My memory is toasted enough already. Having never been to PIP you will have a hard time telling stories about me but go ahead and make something up. Just be sure whatever stories you tell of me are interesting. I had planned to be there this year but the bike has been fighting me every inch of the way. Last night my kick stand snapped, bolt and tab and we fell over together as I was trying to get on I'm working on restoring that now, just days after getting my collector replacement installed. Maybe PIP 11?

The material is cast and the outer tab cracked and the threads snapped off of the shoulder bolt and the bike and I both went over on our sides last night as I was trying to mount her. I'm beefing up the tab and got a larger (1/2") shoulder bolt with 3/8" thread. The thread is pretty similar to the 10mm of the original but I'm told that this is very hard steel. I also welded a length of 1/2" rod to the back of the stand from the foot to around where the spring attaches. It just looked thin to me and I thought it may be bending in that area. I'll post some pics of the final version later. Obviously I don't want this particular problem to occur ever again.

Puc, are you saying that with a million miles of riding 1st Gens you have NEVER done the valve shims? There is a new collector available, pretty slick stainless, easy to install, and high performance one from Mark McDade (Mark 760-948-1346). About $366 shipped. http://marksperformance.com http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96690-exhaust-collector-options

If you use the Avon Cobras watch the pointed ends of the tread insets. On the only set of them that I will ever buy that is where they started to split.

I have the double blue dots and this is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006B289RC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Here are some pics: It seemed to work pretty well tonight riding it. I wish I had ordered two more of the Cobra Clamps for the muffler connection which is a little larger than the others.

Wow, well I'm happy that your instincts are better than mine on that. It seems like my stand is allowing a greater and greater tilt to the left due to bending. I thought that probably meant it was simple mild steel.

Probably. You could probably cold work it too, ie lay it on your anvil and just hammer it back into shape. Of course you could damage the threads like that too. Put it in a vise and tighten the vise enough to bring the sides back into parallel? May need a piece of scrap steel as thick as the frame dropout to form to either way. I doubt if it has any sort of hardening anyway (untempered mild steel) but of course I could be wrong.

Those are nice looking braided shields on the connectors Medic. Did you buy a kit from someone? If I have the original Digital TCI they just wire to the original coil inputs, right?

I strained my back I guess and it's spasming today. I took muscle relaxers to try to prevent being full-out immobile and so I didn't work on finishing the install today. I did start it up without the mufflers on it and I get a very loud rumble accompanied by occasional explosions. Should my exhaust gases be exploding under these circumstances? I had 1/3 choke on. I'm hoping to finish the install as well as my double linked shifter tomorrow. Yes Jeff, I'll post pics of that sometime later too. It's not very pretty right now, I'm just trying to make it work so far. The damn lawn needs mowing too and that usually makes my back feel a little abused. ZTR with lumpy bumpy terrain.

From RonAyers: Gasket, Exhaust 4 Item #3JJ-14653-00-00 $17.24

Just do this and fogetaboutit. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?107426-I-added-a-Browning-BR-FILTER-today-and-my-sound-system-now-has-no-noise Another thing though is upgrade front springs to progressives and disconnect electric anti-dives. Look into replacing headlight and tail light with LEDs or HID for the headlight. Those other measures will help ensure that your Clarion has enough power to operate properly.

It's installed already, all except the mufflers, but I'll do what I can to take pics. It's easier to put on than the stocker but a helpful guide in the tech lib here says not to be on the center stand when doing the left rear connectors and that is just not so. If it isn't on the center stand then the center stand will be annoyingly in your way. The clamps I posted about here earlier worked really well. You need a deep well 7/16" socket on a 3/8" extension about 8 inches long. Since the nuts on those project out you know once you have the socket over it there will be no slippage till you crack your socket.

I've never met you but I'm still sorry to see you're leaving. Do you ship your bike back and forth or rent one when you're here? If you were here very long you could buy a new HD and then just leave it at the airport for what it costs to rent but I was just wondering.

I've got my MC Pipe. Hope you get yours soon. It's a cute little thing, compared to the stocker.

It could be easier if you upgrade the clutch cable to braided stainless reinforced because the old one is thicker but weaker. Keep trying and you'll get it. On the right side of mine I have two braided stainless brake cables, two throttle cables and the electrical cables that include cruise control, starter, etc. As I recall the cover plate slides into a slot on one side and a screw holds it in place on the other. Rotate the bars until you find a position that provides you enough slack to fit the cover in place. The choke will remain on if you get it's cable too tight so watch for that. The clutch cable won't be affected unless you mechanically stress the banjo bolts. I don't know what you were doing that you need to put the cover back on but think it over, make good use of the space available, be ready to disconnect and re-route a cable if that makes best sense, etc. I'm sorry, I don't have a photo handy.

Yup, the reason why that laptop is running so hot is probably all of the information Microsoft is collecting about you. It's working overtime to do it's reporting. It's not surprising that it runs faster, by the time Win 8 was released the code base was unbelievably bloated. Just trimming a little brought significant gains.

I bought this from Amazon in the US. It works very well. Maybe they have one for Canadians too? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELHGHXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 After looking at mine to verify that it should work I realized that it would be easy to make from a 5 pin male DIN plug and a 3.5mm headphone extension cable. It's just three connections to solder. Here's the best document available for headset connections: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?499-Headset-Pin-Out-Diagram

He responded to my email late Monday afternoon and I called him back a little before noon today.

Well, I did speak with Mark McDade today at around noon. I had left messages for him on Friday last week. He's going to get started on a collector for me. He found the welding jig that he thought had been scrapped and he is taking orders with a price of $345 for stainless fabrication. He said it was fine with him if I got the word out that these are in production and he assured me that my unit is in queue ahead of the rest of yours. Other pertinent info, it is designed to be used with the stock Yamaha seal set: 36 and 43 are both 3JJ-14653-00-00 (2) and 27 is 3JJ-14623-00-00 (4) on the fiche. 36 and 43 are $17 each and 27 is $14 each for a total of $90. With the two front headpipe seals 11 sku 3GD-14613-00-00 (2) for $5 each it rounds out to an even hundred. Mark said there is not a crossover pipe and the ground clearance is better than the stock collector. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1993/XVZ13DE/EXHAUST/parts.html

With engine stopped and wheels not rolling there is usually pressure on transmission preventing it from shifting to neutral. If you're going to neutral shift before you get stopped or move the bike forward or back to free the pressure on the transmission when you want to shift to neutral. VR doesn't have automatic neutral finder like my Vulcan 2000 and some other models.