syscrusher

I just finished creating nifty brackets to hold my floorboards where I want them on my Gen 1.2. They would be far stronger if I weld them up but the bike itself is the best jig I have available. I could try mounting parts on my wood patterns but that could vary a little from the actual bike. I just don't want to fry the computer unit or the TCI with pulses or surges. Is there any advice on this? In the photo where you see the underside of the bracket I was thinking I would put a section of pipe between the parts hanging down to protect the oil filter but I think instead I will cut those off after welding and arrange for a short plate between the brackets on either side. Whatayathink? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=100567&d=1436583348 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=100568&d=1436583348 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=100569&d=1436583348 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=100570&d=1436583348

I used Super Glue to seal pinholes in the diaphragms and it didn't seem to be deteriorated by the time I finally got around to replacing the diaphragms.

Since you brought it up, what can you do about base coat/clear coat? I have a car with a difficult sort of directional metallic finish I'm told. After an accident the shop did an "up-and-over" which they said would be the best to match and eliminate termination borders. The trunk lid wasn't supposed to be included, or at least I thought do. Anyway, I ended up finding orange peel on the trunk that the body shop swore wasn't their doing and I'd like to consider getting it smooth sometime.

I got the float freed up at least tonight. I don't know if it's a mystery or not but I found that it measures about 350 ohms at the lowest to around 1 ohm with a full tank.

With the risk that bees wax could seal the lock to the extent that the key wouldn't even go in is it really better than just using PB Blaster?

I don't have an answer but what are the pea shooter and the shotgun?

I overhauled my fusebox this weekend. For some reason the SIGNAL fuse on my 93 is 20A. I used the same fusebox that cost me $11.50 plus tax. I handled the ACC terminal and the mounting a little different. After I cut out the plastic fuse clip mounts I could get the cover on and the fake tank cover too. The tie wraps had to be the thinnest and smallest available and the fuse cover fits tight but alright. BTW, I used a sharp sharpie to write (L 10 ACC), etc. on either side of the crimp-on in case I got off-track.

Aw, you're all going to laugh at me. MiCarl and then the FlyinFool helped me sort it out. In my defense my gas gauge had always worked pretty well. The carb bowls had fuel, although I probably should have let enough fuel run out of them to be sure they were full. Have you guessed it yet? I ran it out of gas and I was too bone headed to realize it. Too stupid to look past a gauge that was lying to me. When it seemed to respond to momentum on the road it was really responding to fuel sloshing around and getting some into the carbs. The markings on my fuel tap are mostly unreadable but when I had good luck getting home after turning around on the highway it was exactly because I had put it in RESERVE. When I brought five gallons of fuel it drank all of it. I guess I need to try to run the level down a little and then take a look at the fuel float under the seat. One thing that I learned is that if the fuel pump sounds like it's running too fast or if it always runs when the key is turned on it probably isn't pumping gas. Also my tool kit didn't have a socket extension in it before now.

Today I got as far as Ashland on the way to Lincoln and it just wouldn't keep running at any level of speed. After riding in the shoulder slowly or slower than traffic anyway I found a flip-flop and turned back but it died without momentum. I stopped and fiddled with the fuel tap and restarted it and it went like a champ all the way back to the Big O (home). It's acted up like that once before, same sort of behavior, same lack of reason or why it stopped acting crazy. It's a 93 so the TCI should be alright? I just don't know. I was going to try traveling on it but not until I understand some things. How does the TCI act when it's going bad (usually)? It acted fuel-starved or like it wasn't sparking, maybe a little more like it wasn't sparking my guess. It could be riden with momentum but couldn't idle when stopped. I may have left the choke on slightly both times this has happened but deactivating the choke should have changed things, right? Interesting that both of these times I was in a hurry to get to an event that I had already bought a ticket for. In a couple of years of owning it come August, it's only done this twice now. I did consider that the computer got a reset when it was restarted. Do these beasts lose their minds every now and then? I'm not leaving town with it again until I convince myself that I've done something to fix it.

Thanks for the reply, I had computer trouble and couldn't see your response this morning but I found a five position ATC fuse block at O'reilly's for $11.50 and bought a dozen fully insulated female tab connectors while I was there for $4.00 more. I ended up doing it just like the original as well, instead of the larger more complicated fusebox design I was considering. The original wires seemed a little short and made for a tight fit but it worked. Psychologically it worked to write the connection info on each tab connector with a sharp sharpie. I didn't get confused but it helped me to know I wrote notes on the connectors anyway. Pictures to follow tomorrow.

Most people I've noticed tend to recreate the old fuse block when they put in a new one but actually everything in my decaying old original fuse block gets 12v on the left side of the fuse when the key goes to on. OK, maybe I didn't look closely enough at the ACC position, I guess CLASS is only available there. The burning question for me is whether one can't just get a fuse block with a power bus and just take the right side wires from the other side of the new fuses. One, maybe two, possibly three connections for power in under different switch positions and then the eventual recipients of those after providing safety through the fuse. Battery, Switched ON, and Switched ACC? It seems like you maybe have done it this way, does that sound about right? I just want to be sure I'm not missing a situation where two circuits need damping or isolation between them, even though they both appear to just get +12v when the key is ON. Please answer as soon as you can, I just finished a longish list of front end rebuilding but am unable to ride because of my crumbling fuse block. :bang head::bang head:

I'll be looking for it to track badly once it's all together but it looks alright so far.

If your Venture Gen 1.2 is unladen it will be no more top heavy than any adventure touring type motorcycle. As long as the top box is empty the bike shouldn't truly feel top heavy compared to most bikes intended for two-up riding. The fuel is stored lower than for most bikes, the engine is not a top heavy design, and the seat height isn't awfully tall. The battery is up high and the frame mounted fairing is a little higher than most bikes. Get a LIPO battery for better starts and much lighter weight and learn to love the fairing.

Thanks for including that and for all of the other advice from everyone. Something I did that I think could be good advice for someone else struggling with this is that I bought some one inch PVC pipe and cut about two feet off. This will thread into the fork to a depth of an inch and a half or so before the tube tapers inside. I cleaned the PVC real good so it wouldn't contaminate the fork first. With that in the tube I could get my very large flat blade screwdriver wedged between the PVC and the top pincher receiver. I had my younger brother beat the bottom from below through a wood block and the tube finally found it's way into the socket.

One of the excellent members here recently sent me a set of fork tubes to rebuild my forks after the April accident I had. I've got one of the tubes in (on the left side) but when getting up to the top tree on the right they're really not lining up. I'm trying to do this by myself since trainable help is hard to find here. I used a very large screwdriver in the cap to pry it into place on the left but on the right side it is off right where the pincher splits. The short side of the pincher won't move at all when pryed and the full lock position has the pincher up next to the display so that prying is limited anyway. Nothing seems to work. Does anyone have a trick or tip or technique to try on this operation? Thanks in advance for your response.

So if I am using the block-off plates that act as though Anti-Dive is on all the time (MK II) I suppose I should use much lighter fork fluid to avoid fork stiffness?

If you look closely at the bypass plates they show a channel between the two openings. In the photos of the end of it you can see that it has a socket head bolt to seal it off. The black painted ones showing the outer view illustrates that best. Clicking the photos shows a larger photo. The channel is the reason that they are half-round. I just wondered why they went to that level of effort unless they believed there was some reason to. As I consider it with my limited understanding of things it would seem that they would need to be careful to calibrate the amount of flow allowed there, but it's about as far as I get with the philosophy behind any of the technology, including the original stock anti-dives.

I wonder about the difference in suspension action between these bypass plates and "block-off" plates. Does anyone have the knowledge required to comment on this?

Pretty impressive. I wonder how well one of those jigsaw blades that have an abrasive instead of teethes would work. I have found Roto-zips to be tricky, there's almost always one spot where they want to diverge from your line even going slow and careful. At 20,000 rpm that roto blade can remove a big piece of plastic you had hoped to keep in an instant. I want to be able to see over the windshield. The windshield is supposed to push the wind over you, if you're in the rain you can duck behind it a little but you don't want to have a junebug splatter across the top of your windshield and make it so you can't see anymore. I had good luck with cutting a semi-circle down from the top center of a too tall shield. I could see and the channel seemed to help airflow and prevent buffeting. I was thinking about re-mounting the chunk I cut out as well, allowing an adjustable gap and positioning. So many projects!

Any little vacuum leak can defeat the cruise control.

Sorry to hear about all of the broken stuff. I hope the bike isn't too bad at least. It should all heal but probably no seat mods for a while though, huh?

I looked that up, it looks like a really fun time. I didn't know they did that. A lot of nice cars on display too?

Dang it! I thought this was going to be about a new updated RSV with a 1700 (or 1800) VMAX motor in it and a composite of all of the stuff people put on their wish list here: I see Ventures all of the time, but less Gen 1 for sure.

Thanks. I need a destination like this to light a fire under my butt and make me get the Venture ready. Even if I did drive I would still put the dual sport DR 650 on the receiver carrier and bring it along.....

I got mine today. It's a great looking patch when you overlook the Brand H look of the motorbike the pork is riding. I hope that I will be able to be there this time but I have a lot to do to a motorcycle before I can make the ride.