syscrusher

I may be completely wrong but many newer bikes have catalytic converters and an air injection system to help consume unburned fuel in the cat. Since you changed mufflers you wouldn't need these and the extra air in the exhaust steam will certainly cause popping from fuel detonation in the muffler. On fuel injected bikes we add a little more fuel to the map at near closed TPS and higher rpm to stop decel popping. I don't know the 2nd gen that well but I thought I read a thread here where someone had capped the air lines using some socket cap screws. Look into this, and enrich your mixture to keep the fuel/air ratio in the sweet spot. As has been said you're flowing more air and more air needs more fuel for a constant (effective) ratio.

Just get one of these and don't worry about that old battery. A battery can fail anytime, I definitely wouldn't replace one every year. Try for 9? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCD05Y6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: LEMFO 12V Jump Starter Multi-Function Car AUTO Emergency Back Up Power Bank Real 14000mAh Battery Charger For Laptop Mobile Phone: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41y8DwosVoL.@@AMEPARAM@@41y8DwosVoL[/ame]

You made it sound like someone's suggestion helped but didn't say which one?

The first person, an American doctor brought here from Africa has been released and is doing great now. We just received another person early this week. People helping him get out of ambulance were in simple T-shirts since the virus is only passed through body fluids. This second person got the virus while cleaning a vehicle used to transport Africans with the virus that likely had some bodily fluids deposited in it. I hear that the Liberian man who flew into Texas and then got sick has died. He was too far along before getting treatment. I hope it never becomes an airborne virus, if it does Omahans are screwed.

If it's been anywhere near water I would pull the cap off of each plug and blow it out with compressed air. Also use the compressed air to blow out the recessed plug hole (with the plug in it). This is something that happens to machines with recessed plugs. A little water gets in the bottom and when the engine warms it turns to water vapor and finds it's way inside the plug cap. The water vapor can then shunt your spark directly to ground, bypassing the plug and preventing that cylinder from firing. It happened to me one of the first times I washed my VN2K and recently with my VR as well. A bird p00ped on my right speaker grill and I ran water, lot's of it, on the grill to wash it off. The next time I went to ride it it ran like crap after warming a little. After parking it for a few hours it seemed to improve, which I was happy about but it was unsettling nonetheless. A day or two later I noticed some p00py looking crud had accumulated in the right front plug area, streaming down from above and onto the top of the "timing?" cover. So I realized that my washing had carried the "crap" on down and deposited it while the moisture defeated that plug, possibly even the rear one on that side as well since there was a small deposit there as well. So to wrap it all up here, I'm sorry for hijacking your thread to tell about my difficulties but if it helps you that's a good thing. I know it's quite a saga and I really should have opened my own thread to air it out but this one just kind of seemed convenient and who wants to start a thread just to complain that a bird thought so little of my motorbike that he (or she) took a big dump right on my speaker grill? It's not a lot of work if you have compressed air to use so you may as well try this out before you go starting on more difficult stuff to fix your problem. Good luck!

I'm just wondering if I should be thinking about a replacement? The engine guard on that side seems to have a tab that rests inside this dent perfectly.

I haven't removed the front cowling completely yet but most things are pretty intuitive. There isn't much the front cowling needs to come off for. One key is that if your model has a nose-piece it comes off before you can take off side front "lower" pieces. It looks like you're missing the fake tank cover as well as the radio and amp head unit section. You could cover that area with some thicker ABS and mount a car stereo or PRV175 wired directly to the speakers. The rear of the fake tank cover slips under the front of the seat and has a tab near the handlebars that fits into a grommet in the top of the frame. It's fastened with a single screw under the gas filler door. It should come off before removing side covers. The long side covers have "pins" that fit into grommets along the top side and it's held in place by large rubber bands at the bottom. With these off one can see the screws holding the front lowers on in back and other screws for the lowers under lower nosepiece. On your '84 the bags are a snap, I think the key unlocks some fasteners to remove them.

Why are we worried about isolating the trailer lights? I'm think I should know this but does it just kept the load stable on those signal lines? I'm assuming that it contains line drivers and latches for powering the trailer's lighting. I ask because I don't think my PO's installation has an isolator.

One possibility could be the better likelihood of a clean path for the arc? As one area deteriorates from the arcing another may be fresh and produce a stronger spark. This would continue until all surfaces are too oxidized to spark properly and the plug needs replacement. This should take longer than a plug with a single gap. For this reason I sort of like that gapless one. That and I once had a piece of insulator crack off and score a cylinder after a head gasket leak sprayed coolant onto a hot plug. Turned a head gasket replacement into a top-end rebuild. That gapless plug looks like it would retain the insulator better.

That's easily explained, I'll bet your passenger wants you to use the throttle a little less enthusiastically?

Double H are good pads generally. New rotors are available at reasonable prices. Would you rather stop short of trouble and replace some parts sometimes or preserve the motorcycle parts and not stop quickly enough at a risk to your (own) non-replaceable parts?

I've been intrigued by the desmodromic valve operation for a while now. Two valves per cylinder seems a little outdated though, I'd have to look into that. 410lbs and 75 HP is a good but not overwhelming ratio. The power and torque peaks are both at high rpms while I prefer low rpm torque. I have read that high rpm peaks are a good way of doing things, probably especially for a scrambler, it should be real manageable in tight trails and such. As a dual sport owner, when I look at a bike like this I'm always thinking of the Adventure Touring capabilities and that aspect of things does seem to have been left out of the designs. It doesn't look like it'll be too easy to mount some panniers or aluminum cases on it. Maybe a Giant Loop Great Basin saddlebag or something similar. I don't think that the Triumph presents much competition to the Ducati, except in classic styling. When I was looking at the Triumph my choice would have been to get a T120 instead of the scrambler since it was chromed out and you'd start with a prettier bike, same under the covers. I would definitely buy the Ducati over the Triumph if I was looking. http://www.forbes.com/sites/nathanielparishflannery/2014/10/01/the-2015-ducati-scrambler-is-coming/

That looks a lot like my first street legal bike. Mine had a black painted cover over the muffler(s). Here's the one I really wanted SL350: http://www.daranok.com/images/2013/11/honda-beautiful-blue-1970-honda-sl-350-with-trail-tires-motorcycle-modification-beautiful-classic-honda-cl350-motorcycle.jpg

I have a lot of trouble folding my body into the position required for "sport" bikes but this one makes me want to try. I suppose with daily yoga practice and injections of a younger persons stem cells I might be able to ride a sport bike up to about ten miles per day. Or I could always try to make one into a comfortable machine, but there are definite limits. This is a 300 horsepower supercharged liter bike that shouldn't weigh much more than the typical 450 lbs. or less of naturally aspirated superbikes. This one would have a weight to power ratio of 1.5, that is 1.5 lbs. per horsepower. Put another way, it's at least 3 times the HP of an HD Ultra Classic, in a vehicle one half (.5) the weight of an Ultra Classic.

That's a pretty effective looking signal array! [quote=StarFan;864828 Really bright and looks good in my eyes. http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a501/jonaslill/Light%20bar/7Lightbar_zpsd4bb7a65.jpg

If it's jammed in there tight then it would minimize concerns over movement there but with .75" of solid milled aluminum the attachment points would allow movement before the aluminum block would flex. The 1/8" walls of the fork slider crowns would deform long before that block of aluminum.

The battery tender is supposed to only add a topping off charge if the battery voltage drops below a threshold which is different from a trickle charger that charges constantly. Battery Tender is a brand name but there are several other "maintainer" types. I have read stories of people drastically weakening their batteries by using a tender or maintainer. It may even have happened to me since I had a battery in my DR650 dual sport that got weak much quicker than I expected. I used to leave a "Battery Tender Jr." on it for days at a time sometimes.

Yet Another Trike I saw this today when I was at the Woodbine Applefest. It seems kind of expensive for what you get though. BTW: It sucks having to downrez photos to this extent, they look awful but a .jpg is allowed under 200K and my cell phone typically records 3.3M per photo. You can buy a lot of disk for the $150,000 this site brings in each year......... Thoroughbred Motorsports: Stallion

The weak points are those SS bolts. They are going to allow more movement than .75" of aluminum. Does this fit the rounded crown of the fork sliders tightly? I wonder how it compares to the Condor Brace, perhaps he will give us some detail?

I mean has somebody at Cabot's actually tasted it or what?

I want one, whether that means I have to build one or whatever.

Everything you need and more is right here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88766

Thanks for the research, mine would have been the radial on the front of a Vulcan 2000.

It's trash, couldn't tell you now. Doesn't matter though I never exceeded the H rating much less the V.

I copied and pasted this from an email I sent out on the day this crap was introduced. If the links didn't translate, too bad you can Google them yourself. I despise Apple, being fairly tech savvy I am aware that they don't produce hardware that has the best specs and I hate the restricted proprietary nature of the Apple ecosystem. I also dislike the stratospheric hype that surrounds the release of their products. They couldn't buy the kind of publicity that they are given free of charge by the media sheep. No other manufacturer that I am aware of is afforded this advantage. I am so very happy that Google stepped up to offer credible competition to expand the feature set of these types of devices. Steve Jobs had always stolen other people's ideas and re-packaged them as his own. The McIntosh was an idea that Xerox PARC demoed to Jobs back in the day. When the iPod came out in 2001, digital audio players had already been a reality for 22 years, beginning with the IXI produced in 1979 and patented in 1981. Other such devices had also been released by Cowan, Archos, Audible, Diamond Rio, etc. The iPhone was based on prior work from Palm, Blackberry, Nokia, Erickson, Motorola and Sony, etc. There were even some very early devices like the Simon Personal Communicator, released in 1994; and this forward looking Western Electric integration. The iPad of course was based on designs as early as the 1994 Fidler tablet concept. Samsung already has watches on the market, one of which has a camera built in and will perform some useful functions without a companion phone, another has a heart rate monitor and pedometer. Watches with heart rate monitors have been available for 25 years. Many of the capabilities of the newly released Apple Watch are useless gimmicks. Steve Jobs was only a genius in his ability to dupe millions of people into thinking that he was a genius and to steal the brilliant ideas of others. He had access to a very talented design team that created very pretty devices that people bought initially as status symbols and badges of community membership. Sadly the devices created by Apple's design team lacked features, adaptability, and superior specs. And now the cute, funny, irritant. http://l1.yimg.com/bt/api/res/1.2/7l4ykI8wsxGJeC6GFVhRIA--/YXBwaWQ9eW5ld3M7cT04NTt3PTYwMA--/http://globalfinance.zenfs.com/en_us/Finance/US_AFTP_SILICONALLEY_H_LIVE/Android_Fans_Are_Laughing_Over-da9a1ffe64ab65e8fd3ab5bc0afdc95f.cf.png Android Fans Are Laughing Over This Graphic Showing...The new iPhone fails to beat 2012's Nexus 4 on several key specs. Also, I wasn't yet aware of this smartphone for the wrist from Samsung. So Apple's vaporware Watch also is already several years behind the curve. Samsung Gear S So, to sum up, Apple is the Harley Davidson of electronics.