syscrusher

Just being more specific, the CLASS system only works with the key in the ACC position. With cruise control, make sure the vacuum system is sealed. Sometimes I have to press that button to the left of the cruise control lights to turn it off and then I turn it back on just when I'm about to set it. My switch won't activate the resume or accelerate functions right now, but I can set it. I have to slide it hard to the left to set it though.

Between 1" and 1.15" on the flats or straights, whatever you would call them. The curves themselves are less than 1", more like .8" in the center. This all depends on which sides of any particular tube you're measuring and where on the tube you're at. They're complex because there is nearly as much curved surface as there is straight surface. But if you have them then just go and take a look at them....

If CLASS is working then you can add up to about 12 psi of air to them. On a 1.2 like your 89, capping the anti-dive means it's full-time anti-dive mode, opposite from the 83. Of course you can leave the anti-dive unit on and just unplug the electrics, that way it can still circulate fluid to the lower chamber.

Thanks for this, especially the up-front warnings about captive balls and springs. I installed an LED, partly because I thought my HID was failing, it would turn off sometimes. Then the Venture weathered a huge rainstorm with 70mph winds and all, thankfully on it's own. But after that the LED stopped working. A parts swap didn't work, wasn't the fuse, so I figured it was because the LED or the storm somehow ruined the RLU. I did the RLU bypass and the CMU bypass jumpers but that didn't restore the light. I did measure over 12 volts at the headlight connector with the bike running, but then by the time I had everything back together it was working until I clicked it into gear. I'm really glad to be able to find the information on the tricky starter switch wiring. I am wondering how many tricks this bike still has to pull on me, I had been feeling like I had a handle on everything so far. It just never lets you get too comfortable.... The little spring-loaded copper contactor that makes connection for the starter momentarily, but continually maintains connection to power the headlight otherwise, on my bike was covered with crud. I could only just barely see two little copper colored dots on the top of it. The contact bank that it slides under was almost as dirty, with only tiny bits of copper exposed on it. It's easy to see why it wasn't working well. I might add a bypass of those contacts to the relay that will run my auxiliary light bar thingy when I finish implementing it. It has a 48w, 16 LED, 3100 lumen, 4" square one of these on it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIHOZP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The good thing is that I went ahead and did what's required for the LED headlight to not flag alerts or cause RLU malfunction. I'm not sure if my approach may have been a little easier than some accounts of the CMU jumpers anyway. I did already have the headlight lens and trim off when I started the bypass operations. I removed the windscreen and the instrument bezel/shroud. The bezel/shroud is easy if you remove the two phillips screws that can be accessed and then use offset screwdrivers to just loosen the other two. At this point everything was exposed. I slipped in a socket extender with an 8mm or 9mm to remove the two Instrument Cluster (IC) bolts that go at an angle/diagonal, grabbing the washers with my finger and using them to back out the socket extension. When those two are out a couple of pins that lodge in rubber washers at the top is all that holds the Instrument Cluster in, aside from wire connections. Remove the two connections at the back of the CMU and raise up the Instrument Cluster enough to remove the three screws that hold the CMU to the IC. Roll the CMU out carefully, it has a plastic light guide piece that keeps it from coming straight out. Disconnect the plug on the side of the CMU that slides off it's pins like common computer motherboards often use. The CMU is now loose, there's lots of tutorials on jumpers for it so I'll stop here. The RLU is right in front of you and there are also a lot of write-ups for bypassing it.

So I'm seeing a lot of advice about synching the carbs here, but what you're doing when you do a carb synch is balancing the vacuum level of the four carbs. If there are holes in the diaphragms it will interfere with the vacuum at the carbs that have the holes, and to a lesser degree the other carbs. Besides that, doing a carb synch requires equipment that costs about $100 while checking the carb diaphragms for pinholes and temporarily sealing them for testing purposes requires time and super glue. There is one final thing required to check the diaphragms that can be purchased at any ACE hardware type store and that is a T25 Torx bit that has a very small recess drilled into the end to allow for that one screw with a pin in the center of it's recess. At ACE you'll be looking for a "Security Bit" set with a full array of the Torx bits in it, you know, cause I could be wrong about the T25 and it could end up being T20 or T30. So when you get the diaphragm out check it in the light and if it has little pinholes then put a little dab of Super Glue on each and let it set for a bit. These won't be exposed to actual gasoline or anything like that so don't worry about the Super Glue, although I don't think gas is a solvent for it anyway. I'm not saying that a carb synch wouldn't be a good thing, but I don't think you can synch it if those diaphragms are religious. Doing this on my 93 got the idle under control and led me down the path of finding the next thing I needed to fix on mine. When I finally did have a carb synch tool to goof with it was anti-climactic, it didn't make a huge difference in things in my recall of it all. I have made a lot more changes since I synched it though now and I probably should check it again. Maybe next weekend. Good luck to you on that uncontrollable idle.

To me, your fast running sounds a lot like my own 1993 back when I initially got it. The solution for mine was to replace the carbuerator diaphragms. These carbs are a constant velocity (CV) design that needs a sealed system amongst the four carbs. If sealed the engine vacuum will control the throttle air flow somwhat evenly distributed between the four. If diaphragms have tiny holes it's unpredictable mostly, but mine ran fast and couldn't be adjusted down. Super glue can seal some of the holes temporarily for testing. Let it set up properly. If this seems to put you on the right track, buy new diapragms. There once was a source listed at the top of the forum, but you can search on "diaphragm".

These are much more aim-able than the HID bulb I had but even though other motorists aren't being hit directly by the bright light I think they're still aware of it and a little put off. I had read reviews of another product similar to the Dazzle complaining about radio interference and so steered clear of that one. I haven't noticed emi trouble from the Dazzle. The sellers of the Dazzle seemed to be very customer service proactive and so I thought it would be alright to take a chance on it. I like the fan free design but the one I was considering had a longer cylinder where the Dazzle's fan is and I worried about the fit due to that protrusion. If I had the one you do, I would try to route those "heat sink" braids down into the opening below the cowling for best air flow. Do those get hot?

That's interesting. I got these "Dazzlers" and installed one in my 1993 tonight. It gives me a headlight out warning but Low/High selection is fine, so I 'spose the RLU won't need to be jumpered for me. It says they consume 30W each. I was wondering exactly how high the amp draw needs to be to act like incandescent H4s. Low beam on some is 45W. Dirty contacts would raise resistance and drop current without causing full failure, or would dirty contacts act like a dielectric? So 45W is 3.75 amps and 30W is 2.5 amps and the difference is 1.25 amps. It's too late now but I don't understand why the current threshold wasn't just an amp. What failure mode (dirty contacts?) did Yamaha hope to detect with a higher cut-off? BTW, these things seem too bright really. I know I'm going to get some reactions from other drivers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRV4MGS/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

This seems like a good opportunity to ask about something that's been bugging me for a while. I don't have popping on decel but just idling the exhaust is louder, throatier on one side. Put another way, one side is quiet and the other can be heard a little better. Overall it's not loud while riding it. Assuming that both mufflers are still properly stockish, what should I be looking at? I am using Mark's crossed over collector replacement where right front and left rear are the cylinders feeding the louder side. All of the heads get warm pretty much equally and the spark is provided by coil over plug on the OEM digital TCI. The last time I checked the carbs were balanced, but that was before changing collectors, COPs, and #3 throttle cable, all of which shouldn't have affected the balance, or should it? So, have I got a bad cylinder, a really different idle mixture in one cylinder, or should I make sure both muffs are in same condition and any ideas how to do that? Or something I'm not even thinking about? What would rule out idle mixture, etc? Should I do a leak down test?

My thoughts exactly.

All of these really gorgeous VRs make me a little bit jealous but then I remind myself that you all probably waste valuable riding time doing cleaning and polishing which I rarely do. In some ways for me that was one of the positives about it. Mine has a definite beauty ceiling that's pretty low so as long as I can ride it without getting myself (and clothing) dirty I'm good for the most part. The funny thing is that I still get compliments on it.

I'm a very price sensitive shopper who doesn't really, really need these right now but I went back through the thread and couldn't find where you had set the price. How much?

Um, what/where is this infamous weld and is it a problem on just Mk 1 VRs or does it suck on all first gens?

You make it sound like such fun! I'd never read about Wisconsin on any of the adventure touring forums I've visited. Actually, I've traveled around Spring Green, Prarie du Chien to La Crosse on Hwy 35, Madison, East Troy, and all over Door County. I never did find this mean, nasty, road of which you complain. Not that I'm doubting you, but all of the WI roads are not so bad. Although maybe I'm just used to worse. Nebraska has some cruddy roads, that's for sure. You've gotta love the ones that include a mini speed bump about every 50 feet to 100 yards that just keep jarring you as you go down that road.

I wonder if you could disconnect one end of that tube and find the right size of heat shrink tubing that would fit over it and the crimping area. Maybe even the next larger size as well. Coat it with epoxy around where the cracking is and then before the epoxy has fully set carefully slide the first of many sections of heat shrink over the area. Use a heat gun or a blow drier, not a flame! Shrink each layer one at a time and let it cool before slipping the next one over that. Build up 5 or 6 layers, as many as you need to allow a tight fit from a section of reinforced radiator hose to fit over it all fairly tightly and then glue that in place with RTV silicone. Heck, I'd do this over the entire length of the rubber tube that has cracks in and extending over the crimping on either end. I would only epoxy the part where you have already seen cracks though, the tube needs to have some flexibility. This process will make it stiffer than before but the left side collar is free to rotate around the fork a little when making turns. Covering it like this will probably keep it working even as the original rubber deteriorates further. Two main points: It only needs to hold up to 21 PSI, although it may be slightly more when the forks are compressed, and it's not a critical facility. It shouldn't cause you to crash even if it suddenly loses all air pressure. Many people on the forum claim that after installing the Progressive springs they don't put any air in the forks anymore. I wouldn't let it hold me up for long and I wouldn't spend big on making the repair.

Thanks for that suggestion. Does the temp indicating paint contaminate the weld area? I suppose it needs to be used in a spot that we don't actually expect to be involved in the repair or build-up? I didn't know that temp indicating paint exists but it's true that the oxide layers can actually make it seem as though the aluminum hasn't melted when in fact it has. It can look intact until you touch a rod to it. It's not as difficult as it seems though with these rods but with every new skill it is recommended to try it out using scrap before using the skill to fix something you want to keep. Remember as well that ordinary cheap toothpaste is a good substitute for heat shielding paste, probably appropriate for this repair. You'll need to heat the surrounding aluminum a little to prevent deforming the piece but there is a huge advantage built in because the temperature difference will be a little less than for actual welding.

Cowpuc gave a detailed account of the proper way to make the repair but there is one snag in that plan which is that you need a TIG welder or can take the bike to someone who does. Flying Fool and Snyper offer ways to get around the welder but the downsides in those cases is that the bonding agent could loosen (break down) and allow the added material to become free in the engine. I have a third approach that is a modification of Puc's repair advice that relies on a special alloy rod and technique you could term as aluminum soldering. This can be done with a propane torch at a temperature that is a little lower than the melting point of aluminum and so avoids much of the difficulty and special care associated with aluminum welding. The rod material melts over 700 degrees F and I guarantee you that this part of the engine will never come close to that temperature unless something is very wrong with your engine. There are only a handful of motor oils with a flash point over 500F, so heaven help you if these parts of your engine are getting that hot. The spark plug of my DR650 gets to 450F at most and that's the hottest spot other than the exhaust. You can use the rod to buildup the thickness of your broken piece as well, but I would otherwise do exactly as Cowpuc outlined for you. I have used this rod myself before a few times and it has held up amazingly well, although my welds suffer only the Nebraska climate from -20F to 110F. The process was super easy too. You do have to clean the aluminum parts very well and shine them a little with a stainless steel brush - don't use any other metals for that part. I think acetone would be a good choice for cleaning and degreasing the pieces. Make sure it has all evaporated (quick) before breaking out the torch. Clean the surrounding oil away and use shielding to prevent any fire risk. Remember that a propane torch does get hot enough to melt aluminum so don't get close to that point but you do need to heat the aluminum and let the hot aluminum melt the rod. Don't melt the rod with the torch directly, but once the aluminum is melting the rod you can move the puddle by moving the torch, just like soldering, etc. These parts must not be allowed to move or even jiggle a little before cooling. Let it cool in the air, don't douse with water, oil, etc. Alumaweld info can be found here: http://www.alumiweld.com/ And Harbor Freight tools sells about the quantity you'll need for about half: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

That's got to be one of the most interesting and insightful contributions to this thread......

Ah, well, what do you know, PartsFish is the Dillon Brothers Motorcycle conglomerate just up the street. That is unless someone else is doing business on Amazon using that name, but hey, the customer service phone number matches up between Amazon and PartsFish.com so I think it is the same. Here is what a new COP costs from the PartsFish parts fiche: http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053fc6af870021c54bea305/wire-harness-2 1 COIL, CAP & IGNITION 30700-MEL-003 $57.69 $41.25 The first price is list but the second is rock bottom after markups for one NEW COP.

Well thanks but I said I didn't want to pay dealer price (Bike Bandit) and I wanted a new part. That Amazon listing doesn't come right out and say so but they look to me like used coils. See the rubber seal near the top? The edges of those contours look a little chafed and/or dirty to me like they have been installed. When I look up automotive applications on discount sites these Denso coils cost about $25 each. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for. Now tell me how hard it is to find?

Do you have a technical explanation for why it may have been running on two cylinders? Do I need to look into more possible problems? All of the headers heat up now at least....

Well I started with "I don't know what I'm talking about...." I guess he was able to run the starter with the cover off because it sits above where the oil level comes up to. I didn't bother to look at the shop manual first I just assumed it was a dry area because he could spin the starter without the cover there. I'd still make a gasket that was plenty thick enough to prevent binding as long as it didn't promote leaking.

Thanks for the correction there. I wasn't sure about that when I put that in there. There is a difference with the stock collectors due to our mono shock positioning, length of front pipes, etc. I really don't know where I got the idea that the firing order was different on the VMAX though. Some people restrict their hours for posting on forums to those when they are normally awake, maybe I should consider something like that? :doh:

Yeah, I thought I read that Mark originally was providing a performance collector replacement for the VMAX and had a good following with those riders. As I remember the story, VMAX has a different firing order than VR and so a performance pipe on VMAX may no be so great on a Venture. I just wonder if I have this right or if Mark tuned the collectors for Ventures differently? Thanks for your explanations on the vacuum issue. So my popping was from firing on an extra lean mixture? I suppose some damage could have been done running it like that too much.

I can't find a way to just order one of these online without going into parts fiche for CBR or settling for used coils from Ebay. I don't want to pay new dealer prices but I don't want to buy a used one again either. With every site I look at when I say lookup "Motorcycle Parts" it will only index spark plugs. Otherwise, or better yet, does anyone know where I can peruse COPs by specification rather than application?