syscrusher

First off, spend your money on becoming a paid member here! Then start asking questions and be prepared to sort through the answers. From the first pic you posted I think it does look pretty nice and does have several upgrades I can spot right off. With those front disc covers you can run a tie wrap through each cover and it's disc in about three places on either side before you take the wheel off. The disc covers will hold all of the spacers in place so it's easier putting it back together. Does that front fender light and the disc cover lights work?

I plan to add some photos soon of my large fork brace and the way that I am still using the fork boots along with the brace.

The Boats.net link is often cheaper than Partzilla. There's probably several ways but I used this procedure to set the alignment of the replacement forks. http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tips-tech/tech-tip-front-fork-alignment

Why would I skip second, how could I get around my hilly (or is it hillbilly?) neighborhood without second?

I just got one like this that's pretty nice for the money, especially after I found an app to connect to it over point-to-point wi-fi: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010RX08TW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02 I've had one something like this one for a while now. It costs twice as much but has some good features too. Maybe I'm just used to it: http://www.amazon.com/SOOCOO-Waterproof-Degrees-Camcorder-Control/dp/B017IJBW0C/ref=sr_1_13?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1457939085 The nice thing about the SooCoo (2nd link) is that the case itself is waterproof. $13 buys an add-on charging cable that connects in a waterproof way. None of the others do that. It also just starts recording when the power is connected. BTW: After the Jimmy John's driver pulled a U-turn in front of me on my VR last Spring and caused me to hit his car, I've been using a camera whether riding or driving. I won't drive a city block without one. Good thing too, last Sunday a lady ran a red light and T-Boned my SUV. Her insurance called me the next day to tell me they were taking responsibility for it. You can't count on that kind of outcome if you don't have proof. The kid who U-Turned lied about it and I have to decide whether I want to sue in small claims or not. Of course if I do they can file counter-suit and bump it into District Court with lawyers and all. That means I'd have to hire a mouthpiece myself....... I sure wish I knew someone who could deconstruct an accident and would work for beer.

Not sure about the ape hangers or sissy bar but the exhaust should definitely exit several feet above your head! Umm, I need a brake cable, about 40" over-length.......

Alright, here's your link to the video, it sure looks like fun: http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/video/nascar-ice-inside-wild-world-ice-car-racing-37570098

I'm sitting here watching Nightline and they're doing a segment about crazy cagers racing on a frozen lake in LaPorte, MN. Isn't that where the Pork In the Pines is? It'll probably be viewable here in a day or so: http://abc.go.com/shows/nightline

I made a few more modifications to this recently. I added rear speakers and a power cutoff switch and relay to reset the PRV175 when it misbehaves. If you install the PRV175, or maybe any after-market audio device, you may want to consider also adding the power cutoff at that time just in case. See it all here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117074-New-Rear-Speakers-amp-Cut-Power-Button-For-PRV175 I spent a lot more time making these mods than I expected it to take but I'm pleased with what I've done. Zounds Goot!

The PRV175 I have has a problem that occasionally prevents it from starting. If it happens, the only way to clear it is to cut off power to it completely. I don't always want to shut off the bike to do this and so I installed a "Cut Power Button" that I can use to cut power just to the PRV. I also installed some slightly larger speakers in my lids for a little deeper bass. The schematic is the way I used a relay's Normally Closed (NC) contacts for normal PRV operations along with a momentary switch to open the relay contacts and interrupt power to the PRV.

The place that it's not possible to just feel the puffing or the hot gas for that matter is where the two rear cylinders connect to the collector. Mine was in bad shape back there. If you have a wire feed welder it could probably be repaired by grinding away the crud and welding two new SS tubes at the proper angle using 1.5" tubing. I had planned to leave much of the original nipples in place to assist in positioning. You should probably buy new seals for the connections and get some clamps from Dennis Kirk to replace the OEM. It's going to cost more like $50 to $150 to get it done, depending on the parts you'll need and where you get them. See these threads and/or posts: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?107647-Questions-about-exhaust-system http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96690-exhaust-collector-options&p=929361#post929361 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96690-exhaust-collector-options&p=929978#post929978 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96690-exhaust-collector-options&p=931967#post931967 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96690-exhaust-collector-options&p=932461#post932461 These are mostly my posts and deal with the Marks collector but they contain information that will be useful to you in removing and re-installing, etc. Don't cheap out! If your seals are degraded or folded over etc. replace them. The clamps I suggested are way better than the stock ones because you can position them to get access and because you can get over the nut even at slightly odd angles. After taking mine off I really didn't relish trying to get things sealed tight using the OEM clamps. Plan on spending the money or see what you can do with high-temp silicone or JB Weld. Or live with it as it is, which could be tough on the exhaust valves in colder weather.

Exactly as software releases are numbered (Major).(minor), I have a Gen 1 Mk2, or Gen 1.2. A major difference was indicated with Gen 2 when the Venture went from a sport tourer to a cruiser. The differences between 83-85 and 86-93 were much smaller and so it was a minor update to Gen 1.2.

I was looking for something like this when I first bought my '93. I don't know how well it works, what it costs, or how it sounds, but it's interesting. http://www.xtremecables.net/BluetoothAudioCassetteCarAdapter.aspx

I put these on my 1993 yesterday. They were a struggle to slide on but I may have made a mistake in my choice of slippery coating. I used the Jig-a-clean water-less hand cleaner but it may have gotten too dry and sticky before I got the grip covers on. I do appreciate the amount of stress these held up to while working them into place. I have the original grips with the "cuff" on the end and a bar weight. I think it could have been lots easier if I had a piece of plastic tubing that fit over the bar weight and was as large as the cuff itself. I had a thinner walled tubing handy so the grip cover still had to expand enough to get over the cuff. I worked the grip cover onto the end of the tubing, leaving an inch or so and then slid this onto the end of the bar and pushed and turned the cover over the grip until it was all on there. The tubing smoothed the transition over the cuff bump and kept the grip pre-stretched. If I had used plain soapy water it might have slid on really easily. They feel pretty good to my hands.

Well soooorrryyy! Sheesh. You know it's a little grating to have you complain about getting responses that aren't exactly what you asked. Aren't you a bit demanding. I won't bother to take the time myself next time around. Your user name seems well chosen.

I have Kuryakyn grips on my VN2K. I used the glue that came with the grips but the left one loosened up after awhile. It'll turn and could be pulled off with deliberate effort but it's not on a motocross bike. Mine is still functionally tight and I can't envision any situation where leaving it the way it is would actually cause me trouble short of a wiseguy making off with it and leaving me gripless. These grips have the four rubber finger pads on either side where when I squeeze it the rubber grips the bar more. Some Permatex liquid gasket or similar liquid rubber material might work well but you need to consider the possibility that you want to remove the grips someday. I think the grip glue may be made with that in mind and the rubber that Kuryakyn uses doesn't bond well with it.

I got my set in from this place a couple days ago. Good price and even a discount on a second set. Shinhopples stocks small parts for the Airwings too. The grip covers look like they'll do nicely and these are the harder to find 5.5" longer ones. I'm satisfied but I do wonder how much water they'll retain when it rains and how long they will last.

Alright, now to hear from a guy who knows nothing about working in a bike shop. It's pretty short compared to what Puc wrote though so don't doze off. Basically it sounds bleak working on metrics and such, maybe even Hardleys. The shops that at least appear to be making money are the ones that turn out custom designs based on the plethora of parts available for American made V-Twins. I'm not sure what sort of CYA measures you'd need to take such as MiCarl mentioned but the folks who are really ready to spend big are the ones shopping for one-offs, something flashy and unique. The kind of bike that gets riden to bike nights and poker runs around the city and cover 500 or less miles per year. Maybe have a little side business renting out a few basic stock models, maybe even ones you've restored, especially if you're near an area that people would travel to to tour around on a bike. Jackson, WY is a good place for this. People fly in and rent a bike to ride around Yellowstone and the Teats while they're in the area. Otherwise it's an alright hobby to have when you're home from your day job, you know, the one with job security and good pay.

You really need to make it clear that you have a Gen 1. Most people edit their profile to reflect that. In this thread you have received a lot of confusing information that does not apply to your machine. The pictures have been added back to this thread that is a tutorial for removing the cassette deck and wiring a toggle switch that enables either MC radio or Phone, MP3 player, etc. for listening. To go one step further you can get a little Bluetooth receiver dongle that you plug the audio jack you would wire up in the linked thread and then you can just connect your phone over BT to play through bike's amplifier and into speakers or intercom. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84328-Audio-I-have-an-idea-what-s-wrong-how-do-I-fix-it I have another thread that I think you found that details how to remove the built-in radio head and replace it with a small BT/Radio/USB/Line In device that has it's own amp. I preserved the bike amp and the volume knob and the noise sensitive amplifier boost to use with the PRV175 device because I like those features. Maybe we can get the pics restored to that thread soon so that you can see the whole picture. You also need to spend some quality time in this area: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?13-First-Gen-Tech-Library-READ-ONLY!

I was putting a new roof on the shed and someone's drone buzzed me. It ought to be legal to give one a shotgun blast if you don't want it around you. That's where the gub'mint is really messing with people's rights. You can't just go blast a drone that's invading your airspace.

It looks like they disappeared after a system upgrade or something. Maybe if I have some time later and can remember where the right pictures are I'll try to restore things.

Yeah, the 2011 quake was a bad one but it had slipped my mind. I was referring to the Jan. 6th or thereabouts 6.0 quake in the same area. "New Zealand straddles two tectonic plates, and lies on the Ring of Fire, the line of constant seismic activity that circles the Pacific Rim."

It's probably good advice not to reuse the older lines. As I understand it the stock lines just aren't made as well as the stainless ones. You can use that splitter for sure though and it will probably look cleaner than just two long lines. Just measure from it to each slave cylinder and then up to the master cylinder allowing enough slack for following the handlebar and other routing. It'll cost just a little more for three lines instead of the two but it'll look good. I think that the section from lower triple tree to master cylinder on the handlebar needs to be longer than the Vmax one would be. These people treated me well even though I didn't order standard spec parts either: http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfer_lines_cruiser.html#top

I can't do it this year but maybe sometime...... I never got to Christchurch, I just had to leave it out. I read where recent earthquakes had damaged some buildings there in Christchurch. We didn't get to take the small plane flight over Doubtful Sound because of rains but every hill in Fjordland had a waterfall streaming down. Ice cream on the beach Christmas Day was a tradition I'd enjoy keeping. Your beaches are beautiful and little used. It makes me think of how California may have been in the early 1900s. Abel Tasman NP and so many other things. I made the most of the couple of weeks we had but it wasn't enough by far.

Actually it's pitch black in the Badlands after sunset. The ideal times to visit are at or just before sunrise and sunset. The filtered light filling the contours of the rough landscape adds color that wouldn't be seen otherwise. By daylight the Badlands is basically just slightly colored mud and gravel that's been ravaged by erosion.