syscrusher

Thanks for the info. I may do that as well.

But what if they have a heated vest with heated gloves and a high output sound system blaring? No, I agree with you but still I do wonder if the typical 6 ohm load resistors are overkill and a much smaller load would still work. I haven't put any LEDs on this bike except for one of the tail lights. I did only one because the led I had laying around was no where near as bright as the incandescent in there. I have a weak tail light if the incandscent fails now. Do you have an led you recommend for the tail light?

I removed and reseated each of my blade fuses but when I loosened the battery strap and raised my fuse block, moving the wires, the HID started working reliably again. My wires to the fuse block are all very short and tight. I'm afraid I'm going to need to splice in wires that are more relaxed. The wire going to the headlight fuse gets warm quick. Has anybody used that to control a relay instead of directly powering the light?

Do you smoke? If you don't then replace your cigarette lighter socket with a dual USB charge port. The downside is that you won't be able to use the port anymore for 12v stuff like a Slime air pump. Plug-in adapters are OK too, I guess. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MNGCDVS

I would experiment with a wire-wound potentiometer (reostat) to see what sort of load is really required to get the flash frequency calmed down. It may be that a smaller load would work, saving power. I think it's worthwhile since your blinkers are operating often when you're at a stop light and the generator is making reduced output.

That's odd, at least from the perspective of a gen 1.2 owner. I wonder if your bracket is slightly bent or misshapen. My rear brake didn't perform satisfactorily until I put HH pads on it.

My best motel experience, aside from Punakaiki Rocks Resort in NZ, was at the spot called "Top of the World" just below the Beartooth Pass in Wyoming (Highway 212). I had passed the place and was getting into the switchbacks when I noticed three discouraging things. It was getting dark, I was low on fuel, and there were a few inches of snow accumulating on the roads with more coming down in big fluffy flakes. I found a spot where I carefully turned around in the middle of the road and went back to that place I had seen. The store/gas station was closed but I went around back and got the attention of the family in the house behind. He agreed to open the store and sell me some gas. They also had one room left out of the three for rent. I was saved! The bed was built from good sized pine timbers that matched the walls. It was warm, and it had a kitchenette. Aside from the sex I had a hundred feet from the ocean at Punakaiki it was the best motel room ever! Sorry, I've stayed in so many dives with the paint peeling off the walls, bugs, and stuff that didn't work that I really couldn't decide on a worst. But I'll never forget the "Top of the World"!

Mine would just spuriously decide to flash different numbers across the display for no reason and without touching any buttons. Replacing it was one of my best mods with the new functionality offered by a BT connected unit. One big negative about PRV175 is that it won't remember the last track played from the MP3s on the USB so it starts from 1 each time it's started up. The USB is just a third tier backup though.

It's something to look at but why would that pull down the dash?

If you want to be sure about where you're running in the whole fuel/air universe you should probably go and have it dynoed about the time you think you're right about things. Make sure the dyno operators have the oxygen sensors that they jamb up the exhaust and have them chart your mixture throughout the range. You don't want any really lean areas, especially in your typical cruising band since that will make everything too hot and could perforate your pistons over a long ride.

I think it was in the tuner when mine did that. Ultimately I ended up replacing the radio head with a PRV175 and connected the low level outputs to the bike's existing amplifier. The advantage of this was that I still get to use the noise sensitive volume, volume knob, and the rest of the intercom/CB system. My amplifier itself works fine, after I installed a BR-FILTER noise filter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?88766-PRV175-Install-Keeping-Built-in-Amp-and-Controls

My H4 bulb is HID for low and halogen for high. The HID will fail, often now, but the dash will go dark with no icons as well. If I flip to high beam (halogen) then after a few seconds the headlight and dash will be back. Everything will work fine until I flip back to HID. Sometimes then the HID will light for awhile but then if the HID stops so does the dash. I'm planning to replace the ballast but I'm just a little baffled about why the dash seems to follow when the HID fails? Again, the halogen part of the bulb always works, although with a long delay when switching to it. The halogen bulb has a greater current draw to operate than the HID so what's up? Could I be losing my Reserve Lighting Unit or CPU/Monitor? How would I test those devices and where are they located?

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?87151-Speed-Bleeders-What-size&highlight=speed+bleeder

I am not really sure about the anti-dives that are linked to the brakes hydraulically. I think that they stop fork oil from being displaced in the lowermost section of the fork which stiffens up the action and prevents further movement (diving). On the Gen 1.2 electric anti-dives they are very much a weak point of the fork since the plastic part holding the solenoid can be broken off easily and has the effect of punching a hole in the fork. Skydoc's plates are widely referred to as "bypass" but they actually are a cutoff. With the plates installed the forks behave constantly as though a diving condition has been sensed, blocking the flow of fork oil in the lowermost section. Here's an example of hydraulic anti-dives that have just been capped with an adjustable activator instead: http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/anti-dive-gotta-go.31622/#post-273680

My 93 Royale used to be forced into an uncomfortably upright position when the kickstand was used on a slightly sloped surface. It was the most upright motorcycle on a level surface I had ever owned.

Like the Nike commercial: "Just Do It"! Unlink the brakes. And get Speed Bleeders.

Unless the old set cracked in dangerous places, then the new set absolutely IS better!

So I suppose this just won't do?

And riding up and down either side of the Mississippi is a great way to spend some quality time with your motorcycle! If you just want to spend some quality time with the Mississippi itself there are small boat tours that take half a day or so.

Eew, pretty. If I had those they would be all scratched up now......

Thanks, I looked there and the spring is obsolete but the dust cover isn't: 22 COVER, DUST 2H9-18154-00-00 $5.73

I found a spring at Ace Hardware that will work for the ones that hold the exhaust tips on a First Gen. It's a lot tighter than original, I think it may be #107. But the original springs are perfect for another project and I wondered if anyone has any laying around that they could send me? I could also use a couple of the little rubber covers that go on the shift linkage ball joints. If you have any larger parts you want to send let me know what they are and I'll let you know if they're needed. Depending on what you've got I could sure use a lot of stuff. I have the cassette deck mechanism if anyone wants it.

No, I meant the aluminum ones that keep the oil and other parts from falling out. Here's my covers: The inner covers on my right side aren't bad but the two circular ones are. Probably a winter time project as both of us would be unable to ride until the exchange is complete.

A Trail Tech Vapor will replace your tach and speedo. The one for DR650 would work well with the VR. There is an outer frame available for the Vapor that provides some indicator lights. The Vapor itself provides engine temp, shift light, and fuel warning. If I did it I would still keep the center rectangle with the error indicators. My engine covers look pretty ratty. You probably want them for your Frankenstein bike. Maybe I'll trade you. Let's see what yours look like?

I've got a DR650. It's fun to zip around without the extra weight and bulk when I'm in town.