syscrusher

I did find some help for those who may be planning to rework a collector. The only clamps I could salvage were the two on the mufflers, the other four were trash with the bolts badly rust locked. I have great hopes that these new clamps will be easier to get a socket on the nut since it projects out there. I also think that they will seal better than the originals because they have a band throughout the full circle. The Cobra 95-2950 1.5" stainless exhaust clamp is a great deal at $6.98 from Dennis Kirk https://www.denniskirk.com/cobra/stainless-t-bolt-exhaust-clamp.p442692.prd/442693.sku I need some stainless tubing to recreate the rear sockets since it seems that is where my leak was. The existing metal is so thin as to be nearly gone and it's distorted somewhat as well. Grainger has a closeout on 1.5" OD stainless tubing, 1 ft @ $13.20 2FGF5 Tubing,Sanitary,1 1/2 In OD,316L SS,1 Ft 1.00 EA 13.20 13.20 I measured about 1.25" or close to 33mm for the front pipes and the rear nipples. The sockets these fit into are as much as 1.5" inside or between 36mm and 38mm. There is still a little of the seal material I didn't disturb and so I only measured the upper areas beyond the seals. The tubing I will use to repair the damaged sockets is stated to be 1.37" ID and 1.5" OD. Outside of those sockets where the clamp goes are around 1.5" but there's corrosion and it flares a little wider above the clamp area. The output ends where the mufflers go are about 1.5" and the sockets on the mufflers are about 1.75". There's roughly .25" of difference that the seals account for in each of these connections. I plan to use high temp copper silicone to seal each of the connections inside and leave it to cure for several days before starting it. Why am I telling you this? So you can tell me a better way or congratulate me on a good plan. One way or another, let's hear it?

I will be needing to repair mine before a new one comes to market though, I'm afraid. I have mine off the bike and can help with some measurements as well. Why not just a bend on either side that connects that front to the rear nipple. From there cut an opening along the side of either and weld on a short pipe for the muffler to connect to. Finish it up with a crossover pipe between the two sides a little forward of the where the muffler nipples are welded on and weld the front bracket to that. It may not be the most high performance version possible but it would be simple-ish. I was trying to find the thread but somewhere I saw that even Mark's pipe later added a crossover between the two sides. It does seem like some info in this thread indicates that maybe the crossover was changed for some reason?

[h=2]PRV175 Fixed With Software Update![/h] I know that several people on this site have installed the PRV175 into their bikes. I've had the PRV175 for about a year now and it mostly works well except that I like to listen to the music on my phone's SD card (64 GB) using a Bluetooth connection to the PRV175. That works fine but so far I've had to pair the phone each time I start the bike and turn on the PRV175, really a pain if I happen to click it into gear with the sidestand down and kill it. That has all changed now! Very nice for a feature-rich stereo that can be had online for $130. My PRV175 now reconnects just like any other Bluetooth device, every time since updating the software and pairing the phone. I asked Prospec Electronics, the distributor of the PRV175, permission to post the update file on the site but the response I received is: "As far as posting on Venture Forums, I would rather you just leave our contact information, if you don’t mind. The reason for this is that I want to make sure an individual needs this update and is properly prepared to do it. Updating a later version or losing power during the update can leave irreversible damage. I really appreciate your interest here. Please post this email address as the contact: service@prospecelectronics.com " Here is the info on checking your current version and what's required to do the update once it is received: upgrading will not hurt anything provided that your version is numerically less than the update which is V14-5281. Please check it before proceeding. To check the version, with the unit off, press volume down then volume up three times in a row until the display lights up and shows the version. Syscrusher - (This is Down,Up,Down,Up,Down,Up) It will give the version only briefly so look sharp. To use the update: Please ensure no possible loss of power can happen during the update process. 1. Prepare a USB flash drive by formatting it clean (FAT). Add the update file (attached) to the flash drive. Make sure there are NO other files on that drive before continuing. 2. Turn the Stereo on. 3. Plug in the flash drive. 4. The stereo should go straight to USB mode. The backlight should then go off and "UPDAT" should display. 5. when finished, the backlight will come on and display "SUCCESS". 6. Press the power button. "Welcome" should display as the stereo will be on. Now you can disconnect the flash drive. 7. Check the version. It should be V14-5281. Updating goes very fast so don't fear your battery will be drained or anything like that while you wait for completion. You will need to set your menu defaults again after this.

Get a script blocker like NoScript.

OK, so someone got a sweet deal on a gently used VR collector on ebay but what about the rest of us? Are these available from Mark's Performance or aren't they? Please update this info!!!???

I know that several people on this site have installed the PRV175 into their bikes. I've had the PRV175 for about a year now and it mostly works well except that I like to listen to the music on my phone's SD card (64 GB) using a Bluetooth connection to the PRV175. That works fine but so far I've had to pair the phone each time I start the bike and turn on the PRV175, really a pain if I happen to click it into gear with the sidestand down and kill it. That has all changed now! Very nice for a feature-rich stereo that can be had online for $130. My PRV175 now reconnects just like any other Bluetooth device, every time since updating the software and pairing the phone. I asked Prospec Electronics, the distributor of the PRV175, permission to post the update file on the site but the response I received is: "As far as posting on Venture Forums, I would rather you just leave our contact information, if you don’t mind. The reason for this is that I want to make sure an individual needs this update and is properly prepared to do it. Updating a later version or losing power during the update can leave irreversible damage. I really appreciate your interest here. Please post this email address as the contact: service@prospecelectronics.com " Here is the info on checking your current version and what's required to do the update once it is received: upgrading will not hurt anything provided that your version is numerically less than the update which is V14-5281. Please check it before proceeding. To check the version, with the unit off, press volume down then volume up three times in a row until the display lights up and shows the version. Syscrusher - (This is Down,Up,Down,Up,Down,Up) It will give the version only briefly so look sharp. To use the update: Please ensure no possible loss of power can happen during the update process. 1. Prepare a USB flash drive by formatting it clean (FAT). Add the update file (attached) to the flash drive. Make sure there are NO other files on that drive before continuing. 2. Turn the Stereo on. 3. Plug in the flash drive. 4. The stereo should go straight to USB mode. The backlight should then go off and "UPDAT" should display. 5. when finished, the backlight will come on and display "SUCCESS". 6. Press the power button. "Welcome" should display as the stereo will be on. Now you can disconnect the flash drive. 7. Check the version. It should be V14-5281. Updating goes very fast so don't fear your battery will be drained or anything like that while you wait for completion. You will need to set your menu defaults again after this.

The PRV175 is AM/FM, USB, Bluetooth, and 3.5mm AUX jack. 20W per (4) channel if you use the amp. Stereo preouts otherwise. I think it also has a subwoofer output but at this moment I don't remember for sure. I use it with my phone over BT but it has weird protocol that requires me to pair devices again each time I turn off the bike. I may have new software that fixes that but I haven't tried it yet. It's a PITA. I installed the new software for this today (8/12/2015) and it now works great! I am waiting for the distributor of the PRV175 to grant me permission to put the new version up here. It drains battery if wired direct even if you turn it off each time so it has to be key switched. Without battery power it won't remember the track number for the USB drive. It only plays straight through on USB with no shuffle feature so you start from track one after you pump gas, etc. Other than those shortcomings it works great!

It looks like you could pretty much do what I did. I want to see your review of the Pyle though. I do have some reservations about the PRV175. I think it's close to the same size as the Pyle. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?88766-PRV175-Install-Keeping-Built-in-Amp-and-Controls

I like that fairing and the rear speakers on the rack back there. You wouldn't want to sell me those rear speakers or know where I could get a pair, do you?

[quote=Flyinfool;927653 I did buy the kit for the electronic one, once I get it built and try it out, either the electronic or the Carbtune will be for sale, I don't need 2 of them. I seriously doubt you will be selling the electronic one.....

I have to laugh at the 6 foot tall boards with the tubes hanging off of it. Take a look at this. With the newer, cheaper sources for parts this is really the best solution. It takes about an hour or so to solder and assemble it all. There is no liquid to fret about and a higher level of accuracy can be achieved. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95616-Hey-check-out-this-digital-carb-sync-that-I-used-to-tune-my-1st-gen-today!

Heres the advanced course, if you decide modifications are alright sometime: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?88766-PRV175-Install-Keeping-Built-in-Amp-and-Controls There are probably better units available than the PRV175, but it gives you an idea of what might be possible.

Randy you are absolutely right. I was trying to find the HH the other night and couldn't but I went back to an early thread I posted asking about how good they were so I guess I knew they existed. I ended up buying the R1/R6 calipers and pads before trying the HH pads in the stock setup. Here's a link to a good offer on the stock FA123HH pads: http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Double-H-Sintered-Brake-FA123HH/dp/B000GRZIJ0

Here is some good information about the cassette player or rather getting rid of it. You'll never get the audio quality with that cassette adapter like you should. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84328-Audio-I-have-an-idea-what-s-wrong-how-do-I-fix-it

Oh, I still wanted to ask, are there copper crush washers where the pipes or transitional manifolds enter the recess into the heads?

I don't think a Double H pad exists for the original calipers. The upgrade to R1/R6 calipers would definitely allow an upgrade to Double H pads. Very worthwhile. So is the caliper to fork adapter readily available? I think I've seen the discs for $50 each on ebay, or a whole front wheel assembly may be the way to go. I'm really glad I delinked brakes though and I think that you don't want to learn to ride with linked brakes because you need that reflex to be applicable to all(most all) motorcycles. Superior braking techniques are possible if the brakes aren't linked.

Thanks for the picture with arrows and everything! Yeah, I need to take the collector off.

The heat is a good idea. If you're scrapping that stator then put toothpaste all around the circumference of that screw. It's cheap heat protection paste and it will also prevent the filler material from bonding to the stator plate. Then braze in the part of the screw that is missing with some gear building brass filler rod. When that has cooled carefully use your Dremel tool with a cutoff disc to turn the phillips head screw into a flat head screw (cut a slot across it). Finally, use a manual impact driver to remove the screw. A manual impact driver is the kind you hit with a hammer. Make sure the impact driver is set to turn counter-clockwise when struck. Or buy a new cover with the stator installed. How does your existing cover look? Mine is UGLY! Maybe I'd cover your shipping costs to send me the one you won't use..........

So I think you're talking about the part that the fiche calls the "joint" that brings the rear pair of cylinders exhaust into the collector. It it the nipples on the bottom of that or on the upper rear of the collector? So basically I just need to remove the collector to have a look I suppose?

Here is the stuff you need to do the de-linking: All you need to do the whole job, replacing everything with kevlar lined stainless brake lines is to go here: http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfe...now.html#front and buy the Vmax front lines with 8" over and the standard Vmax rear. I did communicate to Tim Mayhew there that I wanted two 45" lines for the front with a double banjo. You can get your lines any color you like and even the banjos can be colored for an added price. Tim will take your input and then order kits for you that will give you everything you need except the bolt to plug the old rear master port while you swing your new rear line to the old front port. The plug is a 10mmX1.25 flange head bolt cut down to 8mm to 10mm in length and the end threads smoothed a little with a fine file. Ace Hardware has a 16mm long bolt in stainless that you can start with. There has been some discussion of gutting the proportional valving on the rear master but it doesn't seem necessary when the fluid can only go out the only open port left. While it's not absolutely necessary to replace the rear line to unlink the brakes, it is necessary if you move the line to the old front port, and the stainless line will perform better. There may be even better sources for these items but my experiences were good with the vendors I used. Pashnit provides free shipping and he even started out doing motorcycle touring on a Venture Royale, there's a write-up of that experience on his website! 2 - 45" front any color (Vmax overlength 8") = $110 1 - 10mm X 1.25 stainless flange head bolt = $4 1 - standard length Vmax rear brake line = $52 Your kits will include at least all of the copper washers that you will need.

It's making some noise, seems to be coming from the rear cylinder area maybe although I did T-Bone a car in April and that pushed the front tire into the right front pipe enough to leave a mark on the pipe. Are there copper crush washers that the pipes get snugged up to or what sort of a seal do the pipes have? I could have deformed the seal in the front pipe in the accident. At around 30K miles, where are the first spots that tend to perforate? It looks like a pain to remove the collector and maybe expensive too since I'll probably have to replace several special looking clamps and seals. What sort of seals are there where the rear manifold extenders come together with the "joint" and the joint to the collector? Are there any substitute parts for those? Are there any tips that can be offered to help me sort out how to find and fix the leak? I have taken a good look at all that can be seen without some disassembly. It sounds kind of hardcore but I'd like to quiet it down.

Congrats on over a million accumulated miles! Or maybe you bought a few of your Mk1s used? She's definitely one of a kind. Not held together with chewing gum and baling wire but rather stickers and zip ties. It's easy to see her charms, I hope no one steals her from you at the rally!

If your TCI is original you do still need to replace those diodes before they fail and ruin your TCI. Here is a thread with most everything you need to know about that, BTW diodes need to be oriented in specific direction. The band on the diode barrel will be on one side of the connection and this needs to be the same as originals, in case you didn't know. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86427-Peek-inside-my-TCI-if-you-will&highlight=diode+replacement There's lots of photos in the attached thread and even a link to an online source for them.

Those diodes look similar to the failure prone ones used on the Mk1 TCIs. I wonder if they should be replaced too?

I definitely agree with MiCarl. Although an original TCI for your model year would have the failure prone diodes in it and those should be replaced BEFORE they do fail, I recently had problems like you report and it was the fusebox. I want to get more specific but I'm not completely sure here. The right side of the HEAD fuse holder was broken but still in the plastic base so it looked good but didn't hold the fuse so well. The part I'm not so sure about: I think part of the computer gets power from that fuse so the starter would run but the console wouldn't have info and it sure wouldn't start, as I recall. Here's a recent thread I contributed to that shows how easy replacing the fusebox is, Good Luck! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?105380-Easy-How-to-Fuse-Box