syscrusher

Yeah, it was already done for me by the PO but evidently he worried about shorting the signals when riding through water and muck without the benefit of a plug in the trailer accessory socket. The socket back there had a little door without seal over it until I backed it up into a curb early on in my ownership of it. It would have allowed liquid in and maybe caused a problem though.

Don't expect that to save a leaky seal most of the time. If you're pretty sure it was that ride down a dusty trail that caused the leak then maybe.

My Trail Tech Vapor came with a few connectors wired up with very light fragile wire. The connectors had very small pins, too small to take the spindly wires out of the connector and bolster them with shrink tubing. The Liquid Tape came in real handy for making tiny little wires into more substantial ones, down to the point where shrink tubing had been added to the assembly. Never say never.

I put it back together and went for a ride but it sounds like it would be prudent to dry that desiccant. Maybe if I only add air to the suspension in the middle of Winter (when it's dry already). Actually messing with the CLASS system does worry me a little though. I finally have it working for me, but had to do fork seals four times before I figured out additional parts were needed to get it right.

I'm not sure I understand why the turn signals would fail more quickly. When the switch is thrown it simply energizes the relays to connect the "movement" signals to the trailer wiring. At this setting both sets of outputs are active. When the relays aren't energized only the bike's lighting outputs, which are wired directly, are available. The relay contacts are only engaged once for each startup when a trailer is used and then engaged continuously until the bike is shutoff or the switch is turned off. The relays should stay serviceable for a long time since they're mostly unused. As for the fuses, I bought one of these (Blue Sea Systems) but haven't gotten it installed yet: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81Ncy9vwdZL._SL1500_.jpg

To remove the tail light you have to remove the saddlebag lids, the panels above the saddlebags and alongside the seat (3 #2 phillips screws), and the seat. Next remove the rear trunk and the frame that supports the trunk. You need to unplug the connector under the left side panel wire for the trunk light and pull the wire back through it's routing. Unplug two different connectors for the passenger intercom in the same location. On the bottom inside of the trunk there are four locations of attachment with a total of 6 small acorn nuts and lock washer that require 10mm socket. Clean out the trunk real good while it's dismounted. Remove the six bolts for the trunk frame using a 12mm socket. Notice that on each side two bolts are similar length and the third is extra long. With the right (8mm) tool you may have been able to remove the two nuts that secure the tail light to the frame without removing the trunk frame but it's a tight fit so you may as well. You'll also want to use your 10mm socket to remove the two acorn nuts that hold the plastic cover over the CLASS unit at the upper rear of the rear fender. When all of this is off the bike it should be easy to remove the tail light but even though I didn't remove the tail light myself, I did remove all of that other stuff. I know my bike better for having done this. I thought there had to be problem in that area due to wiring done by the PO but I was wrong and the rest of you were right because the tail light fuse had slid over and was no longer making contact. I did find something interesting there though and I hadn't seen this done before but it does make sense. The bike has a Markland trailer hitch and wiring and the PO had wired in 4 relays, one for each signal and installed a switch allowing the trailer connection to be enabled only when desired. The ground lug was broken and it wasn't working, but it was a kind of neat idea. Not having much experience with MC trailers I wondered if it was common to do this? Here's the dirty pics:

Looks pretty neat I guess. Maybe it would have been a less expensive solution for my DR650 than the $170 lithium battery I put in it. It seems pricey for the size of it but if it really will start a car that's great! I ran the battery down in my hybrid by leaving a small defrost heater running. It wouldn't have been a big deal since the huge 300 volt battery was fine but there was nothing for the computer to run on. I wonder if this would have worked for that.

Could it be that there is a frig or deep freeze on one of those? Coffee pots, microwaves, and other heating appliances can use a lot of power when they're working. That one breaker probably has several lights and outlets all going back to it. If a couple bigger loads are together then you've got a heavy load, although 20 amp is a heavy breaker. They do make 20 amp GFCI breakers for the panel, if you have one of those tripping then it means that your hot side is being at least partially shunted to ground. In that case they would trip right away unless the shunt is in the equipment that you have plugged in. If you have one of the cheap voltmeters like Harbor Freight gives away you can get some idea by measuring the resistance across the plug (unplugged) for a purely resistive load, motors and some other types of equipment will be a little different, but to draw 20 amps at 110 volts the resistance would be less than about 6 ohms. If you have a cheap clamp on ammeter you can put it over the Romex cable that leads away from that breaker in your box and see if current is being drawn when you think the circuit is idle, but you need to get the cable away from other cables or you may be sensing them as well. For 12 gauge wire you can use 20 amp breakers but they will then take more of a load to trip. Generally you want the breakers to trip easier unless you will be using heavy shop tools (or high powered audio/video equipment) as Mike indicated. Good luck and have fun!

EXACTLY! All of the routers out there have all of the default admin user names and passwords listed on the internet. Most of them are Admin, Admin. When you hit the reset button on your router you reset it's password to the default. It doesn't take a genius to realize that you don't want everyone to know the most powerful username and password of the most critical part of your internet security.

With the training wheels I'm not really sure if it qualifies though. In the video the guy really should have been wearing a GoPro so we could witness the breakneck speed. https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/august-29-gottlieb-daimler-patents-first-motorcycle-date-132935347.html

I suppose it is as I expected, the mounting studs come straight out the back, the nuts look like 8mm socket needed. I hope the shaft doesn't extend past the nut very far, my 8mm socket is not very deep. Should be a pita but we will see.

I have the seat off, the two side panels, and have unbolted the rear of the trunk so that I guess I could remove it if I unplug it and loosen/disconnect the backrest cable. I should explain that the PO did some wiring for trailer lighting and maybe a switch to toggle active. There's a heavy added wire going from a small added switch up front that seems to deliver power to the rear, trailer lighting was my guess but I want to know for sure. Under the seat there's more connections from the PO and one wire is just loose with what looks like a damaged spade lag on the end. I want to try to make sense of it all and for that I feel I need to see the wires leaving the tail light and what happens to them. If you know where the tail light fastens to the bike please share with me, I want to remove as little as possible to accomplish what needs to be done.

Or rather, what all needs to be removed before I can get at it's attachment hardware? Does the rear wheel, gas tank and engine have to come out? Sorry if this seems silly, but it won't light the tail light even with good bulbs and the brake light works so I need to trace some wiring, I guess. I just can't seem to find or feel any screws or bolts from where I can see. I tipped up the trunk without removing it but that seemed to not reveal anything. I didn't try to mirror it yet though. Please help?

You know that you've got to change filters in the summer when you use the central air don't you? Sounds like yours clogged pretty bad and got pulled into the fan. Better replace it and go for a ride. Seriously I hope you're not riding if you're not sure how you're feeling. Get better!

The Russian mob is now expanding Ransomware onto Android. Look it up. Be careful or "Pay up Sucker!" (tattooed on Jesse Jame's palm)

"If Travertson’s specs are to be believed, the Striker will be pulling 9.25 pounds per each max horsepower, while the Polaris is charged with 9.97 pounds for each peak pony. Torque per pound is nearly identical, with the Striker’s 10.14:1 figure marginally better than the Slingshot’s 10.39." So for each of the Can Am models RS-S, RT-S, and ST-S the horsepower specs are more in the 8 to 8.8 pounds per HP area and the torque is 9.9, 10.5, and 10.8 pounds per pound feet respectively. Why not go for the higher performing proven leader in the segment and enjoy the advantages inherent in a lighter weight, sportier vehicle as well? Is it because the Can Am isn't as car-like as the others? Then get a car. For the price you can surely get one with even more power and luggage capacity.

For pretty much even money the Spyder RS-S has about 8lbs./HP while the Slingshot has 10 lbs./HP. The Slingshot holds around 3 more gallons of gas, but pulling twice the weight around it's likely to need it. The Spyder also touts it's Brembo discs and Fox suspension. Can Am is also the more mature player in this class. Actually I see now that the Slingshot SL is around $4000 more than the Spyder RS-S, but with all of your money that's not going to an issue, is it? If I were in the market I'd definitely be giving them both a critical look.

Different seller on Amazon, still free shipping: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Shinko-777-Front-Tire-90H-18/dp/B007SSAMY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408162196&sr=8-2&keywords=shinko+777+120+90-18]Amazon.com: Shinko 777 Front Tire - 120/90H-18/--: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317Xgr5YlAL.@@AMEPARAM@@317Xgr5YlAL[/ame] The front is what I need now. I may try one there and see what I think.

It's pretty exciting to me since I maintain an old Alltel phone for travel because it works in the most Western US areas where others don't. My existing smartphone is Virgin Mobile with $45 for 1200 min/unlimited text/ data throttled down after 2.5gig. I usually use 300-400meg in a month but when my brother is needing coaching or I'm doing a lot of yakking otherwise I go over 1200min and have to reset my month to get more minutes. VM uses Sprint and Sprint has deployed much more 4G infra in the past year so that works well here in the O. The New Deal (ALLSET plan) is Verizon's network, Unlimited min & text even to Canada & Mexico, 500meg of 4G data but if you autopay you get 1gig all for $45. You can also add more data in a month, up to $20 for 3gig more if you need to $5 for 500meg. They also are offering a "bring your own" phone but I haven't seen much about that and it would have to be a CDMA (Sprint or Verizon and MVNOs) phone. This is my dream plan, too good to be true, must be quite the weasel words in the fine print. Might be good for cheap bastids such as myself. Oh, here's the link:

One like this maybe? Shinko 777 How do they do?

The same for me, but I really want to go, I just don't always get what I want. Please see what you can do about the motel and that will help a lot!

I'm hoping to be able to go myself, especially since you'll be taking care of one of my big concerns about the trip, the where do I stay aspect.

My battery tender has an inline fuse, I think in the part that gets left on the bike, don't remember for sure now. Anyway, if I would try to turn the motor over while my tender was still connected the fuse would blow immediately. Of course with a blown fuse no more charging was possible. Didya blow an inline fuse on your battery tender connection?

This picture makes it look as though giving them up may not be a requirement, although some modification may be necessary. I need the engine guards to hold the chin piece but the chin piece will need some Dremel work as well. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTExWDE2MDA=/z/b-YAAOxyjP1RzHSA/$(KGrHqN,!qsFHM(EYMQEBRzHS!,C-Q~~60_35.JPG http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/1990_MK2_Yamaha_Venture_Royale_Brian_Mannon.jpg

I can shorten the shift rod but will the brackets for the apparatus interchange?