syscrusher

I have a cheap little cig plug player that plays MP3s off of a SD memory card and broadcasts it to an FM station. I don't like it because it won't shuffle. The cig plug loses power when the key if off so this would be just the ticket for you. Now I realize I didn't check to see if you have a 1st gen or not. Anyway one like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bluetooth-Car-MP3-Player-Wireless-FM-Transmitter-Modulator-USB-SD-MMC-Red-/190687486006?pt=US_FM_Transmitters&hash=item2c65dc2036

here you are:

And it belongs to a KH250. With the front disk and the tank stripe painted like it is it would be a 1976. 1976 Kawasaki KH250. 2 smoke triple. I'm so sure of it, I'm working on one for you to guess.

It sounds to me like the lock mechanism is just worn. Carefully use a channellock pliers to hold the ball down and then turn the nut CCW. Don't grip the channellocks too tightly or you will crack the casing on your Dremel.

1976 Kawasaki KH400

So where was Suzuki while all this was going on?

Amico AC 250V 2A 125V 6A on/off/on 4PDT Toggle Switch with Waterproof Boot On Amazon: Amico%20AC%20250V%202A%20125V%206A%20on/off/on%204PDT%20Toggle%20Switch%20with%20Waterproof%20Boot%20-%20Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41U3K5xeMRL.@@AMEPARAM@@41U3K5xeMRL"]4PDT The rest of it (USB charger) is just the kind that plugs into your 12v cig lighter socket. I opened it and soldered in wires to connect to the ACC fuse. I decided that I may use standard cables under the top assembly from the USB to BT RCVR and from BT into wiring harness. The BT RCVR works well while on charger so that's good. If I later have connector trouble then I'll hardwire stuff. This is assuming that I get the 24 pin connectors sorted out. So far I have about $25 spent. I recommend this BT RCVR , it will operate while connected to a charger and has buttons on the side that let you go forward to the next track or back to the previous one.

I bought a modular helmet that now disappoints me due to the extra hinge type material right where a speaker would go, keeping me from removing foam for a flush mount. This helmet probably has the same issues so if wiring it up is something you might do examine one in person before you buy one.

I will try almost all of these suggestions, especially looking into the mounting items that was suggested. I have looked at the pins but I didn't think I saw any bent ones. The contact cleaner sounds like good advice, I hope it works without wiping because it looks like it would be tough to wipe each pin and could end up bending one. I definitely don't want to make any of the pins smaller by sanding or anything like that. I knew about the Venture link and it is pretty neat but I do want to use BT and I even have a receiver like Jesus offers that I've used with a cheap rebroadcasting cig plug thingy. The only thing about that solution is that you have to power or charge the BT receiver somehow and I decided that I would build in the cig plug USB charge ports and hard wire +5 from it into the headphone BT circuit to keep it active. I just drill a hole large enough for it to push through and glue it in place and wire it up underneath. I'll have the control side of the BT headphones available inside the gutted cassette deck so that I can pair a different phone with it when I need to. When I'm finished I should just have to turn the key on the bike with my phone in my pocket and it will start shuffling my tunes for me. The wires on that BT headset are super tiny though and I'm sure it'll be fun to solder to. Menards had a BT receiver in their close-outs for $14 yesterday, I just had the idea that I should test that thing to see how well it might work to build in. It would offer more substantial wires for the audio channels maybe. Thanks again, I will update when I get anything accomplished on this.

When I have the radio on, usually it's the left speaker will cut out. I can get it back by pulling on the lower grab rail for that assembly (left side). I assume this means I have a poor connection in one of the 20-some pin blue connectors under the radio controller but how do I fix it? I also sometimes have the radio controller turn up a total brain fart and stop working, any insight into that? I am thinking about a project to use the guts of a cheap stereo bluetooth headset and a cheap USB cig plug adapter (12v to 5v@2 amp) to make a bluetooth connection in place of the cassette player. I would love to have a good pinout of those two connectors because my plan so far is to bypass them as much as possible. If you help me do this I'll spill the beans on components, sources, wiring, the works. I am also planning to integrate the extremely flat speakers from the stereo BT headset into a helmet intercom set-up. I want keep the existing radio infrastructure as much as possible because I use the CB sometimes and need to have the priority mixing function provided for that.

Yeah, I know, I've watched most of the other vids myself. A lot of them are from Russia where the drivers are so crazy that if you get in an accident you need a vid to prove what happened. I think if I lived there I'd really have to think about whether I wanted to ride on the street or not!

I used to have a TS 250, fun little bike. I flew 47 feet over a jump on it but I lost it when the front end slapped down. My whole face and especially my jaw hurt after that, not really sure why!

It's called Bike Launching, or at least that's what I call it. The one who launches their bike the highest over the hill wins......

As someone on the Aussie site you linked commented, they didn't even bother to put rebar in the slab when they built it. The commenter said "third world builder" and I tend to agree.

Pretty thorough, I'm lucky to be able to find one confirming photo after looking for longer than I can really afford to.

The link I found said that this one was painstakingly restored, but they're trying to sell it so...... How is it that you know which should be correct for a factory bike?

I know, I know, it's hard to believe but if you look at the picture long enough you will start to see a motorcycle. Your mission is to guess what year, make and model it is.

1974 Aermacchi/HD RR250

I had read about cleaning around the burr really well and filling any dimple with super glue. Sand it down carefully till smooth to tube. Try not to score the chrome too much and gradually back from 400 to 1000 to 1600..... Bugs can make a really hard bump on fork tubes. Before doing anything take a really good look with the magnifier to make sure of what you have.

If you're talking about a serious insurance office then don't worry about sound cards and stuff that aren't needed. The rest of your existing equipment should work with Win 7 but why not test it out on one system and see how it goes? The worst thing that'll happen is you discover you need new hardware for sure instead of maybe.

The transmission had three speeds with no neutral position; a mechanism held the clutch open when the motorcycle was at idle in first gear. First gear was positioned in the middle of the shift pattern, with second gear below and third gear above.[/url] The engine and transmission were mounted together on the swingarm in front of the pivot axle at the bottom of the spine frame. The near-horizontal engine and transmission together as a unit formed a "power egg" style which would later be used by Benelli and Motobi. The tubular swingarm also served as the exhaust pipe. Behind the pivot axle, the swingarm, the reinforced rear fender, and the supports for the rear carrier formed a triangular structure which supported the rear spring. This suspension system allowed a long suspension travel and a soft spring rate. Test rides on the complete prototype began in December 1947 and showed that the combination of long travel and soft springs needed damping. Friction dampers were added. So the only thing holding the rear wheel on was slowly (or maybe not so slowly) being rotted away by the exhaust gas passing through it?

If what you have works for you keep using it. If your business were to need to show clients that you have systems under maintenance, disaster recovery, etc. then you likely need to have an enterprise agreement with MS and they are not entering those agreements for Win XP anymore so the upgrade would be needed. Are you an independent agency or is a home office telling you that a corporate standard requires the upgrade? In that case you would know the answer already though. Having a current maintenance contract is a way to offload liability in case of major system failure that causes customers to want to sue due to service agreements or the like. If you aren't worried about that and you can get the job done with what you have then don't worry, be happy. One final thought though, and I don't know the details but MS may not be doing security updates to Win XP. You have a responsibility to protect your customers information to the best of your abilities and this means applying patches and running antivirus and firewall software. So if falling behind means jeopardizing confidential information stored on your servers then you'd better do the upgrades.

Yes it is P. Hammer. The company had originally sold kits to motorize bicycles, essentially a motor in a bag to be mounted on the bike. So what is yours, do you have more hints, is Moto Guzzi even close?

The name means "motor in a bag".