syscrusher

A broken belt, sometimes caused by a hard whack to the tire in that area like going over a very pointed bump in the road or just general wear and tear. I'll bet it's been a real pleasure to ride on since that happened.

I could go over there and test ride it for you. It's about 50 miles from here but I never even knew it was for sale.

I don't know what was used on it but my OEM shield has a coating peeling away that makes it hard to see through.

Pics make it look nice. A little pixelation in boat rigging but overall I approve. Is it still in style to say you suck?

So did I see a special washer with a "step" or spacer built in there? I'll bet it's a $12 part.....

I don't see the end of the axle extending outside of the swingarm in that last pic either....

Well, no Windex either. Just water with a little dish soap and water to rinse.

My Cee Bailey short windshield says I shouldn't use Pledge on it. It may cause harm to other windscreens as well..... Hell, it may not even hurt mine but Cee Bailey wants me to miss out on the fun, don't really know?

A buddy of mine used to say that if he thought he might want to marry he would find a woman who already despised him and buy her a house. Skip all that stuff in between. You know you don't have to give her title to the house and the car and the ... whatever just so that she has the use of these things for the benefit of the kids. If you still can, you can own the house and let her and the kids live there. Same way with the car, let her drive it, don't give it to her. At least make her buy you out for your interest (50/50). She may not even be able to buy you out cfinancially, but she'll have a few years to figure it out while your 15 year old gets done with school and on to a life of their own. Then you can enforce default if she hasn't paid you off and you can have your house back to sell or give to a kid. If you let her have title without a contract to buy you out you can never get it back. Is she worth buying a house for now? A conversation with an attorney may be in order.

Do that but use this instead of the Marvel Mystery Oil: http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/deep-creep1.png Reason being just that it is in aerosol form and will distribute inside the cylinder better than oil poured in, unless you pour in a lot of oil, but even then the cylinder sits at an angle, and you want the part of the cylinder and the ring at the top coated too. Or you could use WD40 cheaper. Fog it up good.

I met up with a guy on a Kawi Concours 1400 who told me that he had a couple miles of gravel to get to his house. One day he got gravel caught on top of the caliper (which is under the disc, like yours) and it worked its way between the disc and the pad, caught in a slot and locked up the wheel. Be careful around gravel with this! What years did they paint yellow?

re: BigLenny's post: That's one way of looking at it but I couldn't disagree more. It amounts to kicking a guy when he's down already. He has a right to try being happy with his GF and he should still be able to stay in his kids life without being right there to babysit whenever the ex has a hot date or whatever utility he can provide for her. If putting his life on hold to watch his kids grow up is what he wants it's his choice. In my view, my neice and nephews lives were not enriched by being caught in the middle between my sister and her ex bickering over every little thing and distance would probably have been best. Just my perspective. Being right there is no guarantee that the kids end up thinking he's a swell guy in the end. Sometimes less frequent but better quality contact is more.

In the pics it looks pretty clean already!

In my state you would have gotten a more even split of property too. You could try selling everything and offering the wife half the proceeds. You could also get some decent debt going on the joint accounts which would be hers to share. I wonder if a better lawyer could help you out? You may feel that you're doing the right thing for the kids by not insisting on a fair split but they will probably be alright even if you don't get taken to the cleaners. Fight for your rights, get custody of the kids and see if your wife lets YOU keep the house, car, bank accounts, etc. Get mad, then get even - 50/50!

So I wonder if anyone will be surprised to know that the service manual shows the same number, 21, for the washer below the seal as well as the one above the seal. That's right, according to Yamaha they are both flat washers, but the parts fiche lists two different numbers for the two, which we know is because they are two different parts. I wonder if that's why some people have been buying aftermarket seals that are too tall? Here is my email to Boats.net concerning this: I spoke to Joe in tech support about item 3 being incorrect. I cannot spend my life waiting in a phone queue so I will try this. It would probably be best to make sure that Joe sees this since he has talked to Yamaha about it. The long and short of it is that the person Joe spoke with at Yamaha is wrong. Item 23 in the parts fiche is not conical it has a wave to it and I don't care about it at all. What I am after is part 21 from the diagram on page 6-32 of the service manual and part number 8 on the parts fiche (P/N 26H-23149). It SHOULD BE conical, sits under the seal and is the same OD as the seal. The part I was sent is also la belled part 21 in the service manual but it is part number 21 on the parts fiche (P/N 26H-23146). That may be a part of the mix up, being labeled part 21 in both places on the service manual. These parts have two distinct, although close, part numbers and are very different washers serving different purposes. Can you put me in touch with your contact at Yamaha to get the point across? A local dealer will have no more to work with than these errant documents provided by Yamaha to begin with. To sum up, I was sent a part P/N 26H-23146 in an envelope marked P/N 26H-23149, but what I really want is the real conical seal spacer part P/N 26H-23149 that goes under the oil seal just as it is depicted in the parts fiche. Or you can send me a pre-paid label to send this one back and I will just use the one I have. I'm not sure if you can view this thread, but other owners of this machine know exactly what I am talking about: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81855

Better hope she doesn't read this before the lighter wife has been installed.

"Paypal $79.99 + $12.50 for 2 day FEDEX to paypal@siriusconinc.com and refer to 4 x SD-1 sir.. Maria" Did the Paypal thing last night, diaphragms on their way to me today.

That is true, the kickstand seems very long on the VR.

I put a Trail Tech Vapor on my DR650 dual sport and like it very much. It uses a magnet and sensor to give speed reading and is as accurate as your measurement of the tire circumference, which of course will decrease with wear. For your $100 investment you get another temperature sensor and another tachometer too. The tach is redundant but the temp sensor could be used under a spark plug to get the head temp or on a bolt of the transmission or crankcase vs the water temp that is indicated by the built-in gauge. It also has two lights, yellow and red, that indicate a set of warnings or errors such as temp above range, etc. another function of the lights is as shift indicator. I have mine set to light the yellow at around 5500rpm and the red at around 6500rpm, as I recall. They are model specific but the only really picky aspect is the speed sensor. On the DR I removed a bolt from the rotor and replaced it with the magnetic bolt provided. The sensor was tricky , the caliper bracket needed a hole for a self tapping screw to mount the sensor where it could pick up the magnet from the disc. I looked at the Venture to see if the kit I had installed would work with it and I think that it would work well on the rear disc. An alternate method would have you glue a small barrel magnet into a slot on the disc, which is also provided. You could probably get just speed info the least expensively by buying a cheap bicycle computer and figuring out a way to mount the sensor and magnet, but I wouldn't expect it to be pretty or as reliable. Look for a bicycle computer that would have you tie-wrapping the magnet sensor to the inside of the fork. Then you just need to attach a magnet so that it passes the line on the sensor close enough to be detected when the wheel turns. Good luck!

Noticed no one gave you a recommendation yet. Boats.net has been my fav so far.

So I can get the dust seals and put them on my 1993. I may just do that I guess. Thanks Frank and Carl!

Which kinda sucks since it makes it difficult to use a good fork brace. On the pre-1990 Ventures, what holds the dust seal into the slider tube crown? My 1993 slider has a groove around the outside of the crown to hold a boot in place but nothing apparent inside the crown for a dust seal option.

With ink-jet printers the inks can dry out very quickly, that and new printers are sold with very small ink supplies which dry even more quickly. Laser printing is the way to go since the inks never dry up.

When you push the brake pads back in the caliper so that they slip over the disc you will have to pump the brake a little again to get things back into position. It is unlikely that you got air into things unless you had the master cylinder laying on it's side or upside down and then pumped the brake handle. You have me curious about seating the metal slider since I had just relied upon fitting the outer slide tube to the inner fork tube with the lower bushing at bottom and upper bushing resting above it and then allowing the upper bushing to find it's own level within the outer slide tube. Could you tell me where you read about seating it?

A good auto paint store can get your liquid paint into a rattlecan for you, if you want to use it that way..........