syscrusher

Funny I thought this might be about something totally different from the headline but this is a motorcycle site so I'm now up to speed so to speak. I don't fully understand the reference to "reaching down" as it is a KICKstand after all. No need to reach down, but the kicking would put you on one foot which isn't stable. All I can say is:

http://totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/photos/tire-inflation.gif'nuff said. No, actually I have the Metz 880 on the front of my Vulcan 2000 right now. The Vulcan weighs around 900lbs. wet and with gear and it matters more for the rear tire but has around 130 some lb-ft of torque. The Metz is unremarkable, neither excellent nor mediocre. Didn't seem to wear that long for me but I didn't keep mileage. Almost no tread but worn evenly and still serviceable. I never had one wear badly or crack, just wore too quickly and lacked sex appeal. I have an Excedra waiting to be put on because it was cheaper and the groove intrigued me. Why not D404 or Elite 3?

I must be overlooking something. How difficult could it be? All I can think is why wasn't it this way to begin with from their first product for motorcycles? :confused24::confused24:

Got these parts today. The designators given above are correct.

Someone had mentioned to me that you have to drive through the Badlands (SD) at dusk so when I rented a cabin in Rapid City for a week I kept trying to get to the Badlands before dusk but never quite made it. I had also been told not to drive through the Badlands at night because there ain't no light nowhere but I did this four times before I left the area. The day I left the area I decided just to settle for riding through in the daytime - no big deal really. I left Moab on hwy 128 that follows the Colorado River. My headlight was attracting these little flies, thousands of them, that lit up white and made it look like I was riding through a blizzard making it difficult to see. Saw a coyote or something run toward me at one point but didn't catch up. I was afraid to stop for anything or any reason while I was still in the canyon. I figured if I did the insects would eat me alive and I may also need to fend off four-leggeds. When I got to an inn my bike was covered with those little flies. After hitting a deer I'm not a big fan of nighttime rides but I used to love it. I would strongly recommend HID lighting, but also have an LED backup. Consider doing the same ride without lighting or staying where you are till daylight.

Dillon would have ordered them and marked it up so, no, I went straight to online. I don't know what bikes Dillon stocks parts for, but none of mine, ever. The only advantage they could offer, having something in stock, never pans out so I don't waste my time.

I wouldn't want one coming loose while I was cornering and/or having it wrap around stuff, etc. Could also cause air to leak from rim area.

With as many bikes as you have in your sig how do you ever get ANY sleep? Got to be something wrong with one or the other or the other.... most any time.

If you switch between separate elements it does. There are different ways to make an H4 HID and all of them are on the market. The only way that doesn't actually turn one element off and another one on would not dim the headlight noticeably between high and low beam unless the motor was a short but that wouldn't last long. Dirty contacts, stator, etc. not the problem.

It sounds like you have a separate element for high and low. I think you are experiencing the "warm-up" lag of HID lights. I use one that has an HID low beam and a halogen high beam. I only switch it when I ride with a group and then I use the high beam because it's not as bright as the HID.

Went for a ride last night with a group that uses CB to talk to each other. So far I only have "Listen" access to the communications since I don't have a headset for my helmet yet. I also don't really want to buy an old style setup just to use it with this group, but I would like to have a BT earbud headset that would pair with my phone and other things including a BT adapter to the comms built-in to the bike. These are the reasons that I sent the following message to Sena, out of frustration with existing offerings: "Why doesn't Sena offer a connection to the 5 pin din of Goldwing or Venture that would let the rider use their built-in CB Radio with a bluetooth headset? Why would I want to pay $125 so that I could merely get access to LISTEN to the built-in AM/FM? It makes no sense. Provide the TALK channel so that these CB radios can be used and I`m a buyer." I then received this: "Michael,Sena is currently in development of this technology and should have a product released by the beginning of 2014."

Or could he be looking for the trim piece from around the bottom and sides of the headlight?

Yes, just look around on the Speedbleeders website. The Bag and tube are $3 each but make bleeding the brakes easy when used with speed bleeders because the tube seals well on the bleeder fitting and with the bag you don't have to worry about knocking over a jar or having your tube come out of the jar, etc. Good luck.

I'll bet your Blueant can't brush your teeth for you?

Upper Bushing = Metal, Slide 1 Lower Bushing = Piston, front fork These are what I ordered, but I may be confused about the "piston" one. I doubt it though.

Me too. I have stereo BT headphones that have a mic for making calls. This means they have an BT audio input channel that is converted to analog audio and an BT output channel for analog spoken voice. One would think it could be connected to a 5 pin DIN male and plugged in to intercom system in place of a headset. The microphone channel would go to the intercom audio and the speakers would go to the intercom microphone input. Attenuating circuitry would likely be required for the speaker level output to mic input on both channels. Then would a BT headset interface to it correctly? When you spoke into your BT headset your voice would be converted to BT by the headset and sent to the re-purposed or DIN headset. The BT would be converted by the DIN headset into analog signal on (speaker out-->mic in)to be broadcast by CB. Analog signal produced by radio or CB would be converted to BT by the DIN headset and sent to the helmet headset which would convert it back to analog music or talk. Would Sena or Scala interface/communicate with the DIN headset?

Looky Here

Thanks to all for their suggestions. Parts have been ordered, we will see.

Check the brake fluid level and if it's low check for leaks and top up. I would get the speed bleeders for it as well as the bag and tube, it's all pricey but makes it all soooooo much easier. My vote would be for bleeding the brakes good yourself or find someone mechanical who can help you. This comes from your statement that the brakes feel good sometimes because that can happen with air in the system. Don't let the master reservoir level fall below the "lower" indication while bleeding and flushing the brakes or you'll pump air into the line.

Nope, it IS easy. Fine points are copper washer between each of bolt, line, line, housing. So basically a copper washer for each comma in the previous sentence, get it? Copper washer on either side of line banjo at caliper mount point. Also, MUST PLUG one side of rear master where the line toward the front left had gone unless switching ports. Good idea to replace rear line with SS braided one and move connection to port used by front left caliper on stock VR and plugging stock rear port instead. I drained the existing line to the left front at the rear master and at the left front caliper, opening the bleed valve that is near the right handlebar clamp to get air into the line. I cut off the old left front line to caliper near the frame and left the metal line and rest of that infrastructure in place.You could probably roll it up and zip tie it in case someone wants to make it stock config for some crazy reason. It may make it less confusing to the new owner if you sell it but it's really not hurting anything to have it there. Be sure to clean up the brake fluid that gets on the frame or plastics.

Well, I can't hear my radio over the speakers if the intercom is active so I ASSumed that it was also the other way around. It's true, I have not used my intercom.

Right, if you can hear the audio over the speakers then the intercom is not active.

The thing about those caps is that if one of them leaks then you're letting the air out of your tire with it. The seal design is not as fool-proof as the Schrader valve on your tire, which itself is not as good as the european Presta valve I have on my bicycles but that's another story.

Thanks! It did also occur to me that the seal came just in a plastic bag that was closed by folding the plastic over and stapling it. When I 've bought seals before they were in a sealed pouch like a condom is. I would not use a condom that came packaged like the seal was. Could it have been somewhat dried out or is this how Yamaha provides fork seals?

I tried using a one of the thin nylon mens dress sock to detect burrs since it didn't have hose to try and snagged nothing. I've also had my hands all over those tubes and never felt anything but small grit which I wiped off. The seal is in right side up. The thing I am thinking is maybe the upper bushing is too low in the slider, causing the slider to sort of lean back on the upper tube, opening the seal more to the rear and compressing it more in the front? The upper bushing is fully free to find it's own level in the lower slider though, I think. I mean this should be a common problem if it's really what is happening with mine. I know on the GW that has two seals around 2002, it is the left fork that had the problem, but that isn't pertinent here. "The 2002-2005 FLHT/FLT models are equipped with a damper-rod type fork on right side and a cartridge fork on the left side." So there are numerous examples of differing technologies on either side of the fork including no fork on one side like BMW has. The thing that really bugs me is that CLASS is working on the bike but I can't pump up my forks.