syscrusher

Used nitrile glove with cuff sheared off. Wiping tube. Yamaha from Boats.net.

I checked each carb diaphragm today and it turned out the last one I checked has several pinholes. I used Superglue gel to fill the holes temporarily and now the bike idles at 900 and holds a constant cruise controlled speed, dropping or rising slightly on hills. If I could fix this I would probably be happy with the VR.

I changed the seal out again and it leaks again. This is twice in a month. Still have been unable to get a decent repair on left side. I went over the fork tube pretty carefully looking for nicks and found nothing. When I installed the seal I tried to pressurize it before even using it and it leaked air, but could hold up to 4 or 5psi. I can see the oil being pushed out of the seal on the rear if I inflate the forks and then watch it. I examined the seal that I just removed carefully and I can find no nicks or flaws in it. It all seems almost like the seal is just a hair too small to fit the fork properly. I don't like the shape of the seal because it looks like there is going to be too little rubber in contact on it but maybe it deforms and grips tighter that it looks. I'm looking for other reasons for this and the washer under the seal did not want to bottom in the top recess of the fork slider, making me think maybe it was in wrong. A member called 5bikes once posted something about installing two seals that were superglued together and I do know that a GW model has two seals to fix a problem. I was considering removing that conical washer and trying to get two seals under the circlip. Present strategy is that I have Lucas power steering stopleak in there, hoping to swell the seal that is in it. After twice I just don't want to try again without a better plan. It's a definition of insanity to continue doing the same thing and expecting different results. I don't really know what to do here - HELP!

I've done the new seal route twice already and the one I just removed looks as good as the one I just put in, I'll bet.

That was a confusing statement based on what you asked. It is where the seal meets the upper tube, toward the rear.

If I do air it up with CLASS I can see the air pushing oil up onto the upper tube from the rear of the seal.

This is directly from the eBay listing for the one I bought: Originally removed from a 2009 YZF R6R. Will fit all R6 from 1999 thru 2004 & R6S from 2006-2009 AND R1 from 1998 thru 2003 I believe that this is a true statement, although the only YZF R6 that parts fiche shows using this part in 2009 is actually YZF R6S. The other R6 models from 2009 bolt on in the ends rather than the sides. You DO NOT want a caliper that bolts in the ends, ie, bolt head pointing toward rider.

The seal is in right and by consensus the washer is as well. I wonder if I can eliminate the washer and use two seals?

From Boats.net, supposedly OEM.

The photo I posted to identify which one I'm asking about came from a version of that document. The photos just aren't clear enough. I changed the seal out again and it leaks again. I went over the fork tube pretty carefully looking for nicks and found nothing. When I installed the seal I tried to pressurize it before even using it and it leaked air, but could hold up to 4 or 5psi. I can see the oil being pushed out of the seal if I inflate the forks and the watch it. I examined the seal that I just removed carefully and I can find no nicks or flaws in it. It all seems almost like the seal is just a hair too small to fit the fork properly. I don't like the shape of the seal because it looks like there is going to be too little rubber in contact on it but maybe it deforms and grips tighter that it looks. I'm looking for other reasons for this and the washer under the seal did not want to bottom in the top recess of the fork slider, making me think maybe it was in wrong. A member called 5bikes once posted something about installing two seals that were superglued together and I do know that a GW model has two seals to fix a problem. I was considering removing that conical washer and trying to get two seals under the circlip. Present strategy is that I have Lucas power steering stopleak in there, hoping to swell the seal that is in it. I don't really know what to do here - HELP!

I had an Avon Cobra radial on the front of my Vulcan 2000. I didn't get really great mileage out of it before I swapped in my spare front wheel and tire for a long trip. While the Cobra sat in the garage for possibly a year it started to show deep splits at the arrow points in the tread, both along the edge where the arrow points terminated and right in the middle where the arrow points end. It looked like it could burst anywhere anytime. I won't be buying another Avon product.

It's number 2 in this photo. I just haven't seen a photo yet in which it is clear.

That really large conical washer that goes right under the oil seal, is the small ID opening at the top or the bottom?c

I pretty much wore out a Goodyear Assurance Tripletred on my VN2K right when another owner was doing a review on General Altimax HP. I have not tried your Austone, never heard of them till now but I love my Altimax. It is so much better than the AssTT and cheaper too. There is a lot less effort needed with it and it seems to grip even better. I do like the way my Venture handles with std MC tires though. I would not go back on the Vulcan, but I wonder if I'll like the VR if/when I make the switch.

They do need to be reversed as I understand things and then any sort of design for water channeling would be reversed as well so they may push water toward the center of the tread in a rainstorm. There really is no good reason for the lack of tread depth on MC tires except that they can do it and we still buy the tires (more frequently). One could look at it the other way and say that it is amazing that they give us so much tread depth when it should obviously be desirable to have shallow tread depth on a MC tire or they would just make them with a generous tread depth like a car tire wouldn't they? Manuf. can sell us lightweight tires that wear at a high rate because we buy them. An MC tire with thicker tread is possibly more desirable than a car tire on the MC but most of us wouldn't truly notice this difference and our riding styles would not demand it of us. May as well have the longer life of the car tire I say. And I am an aggressive rider with scraped lower hard parts on all of my motorcycles.

If you had an accident on it in mid July the tire pressure could have been perfect back then and could have easily deflated to 15 pounds sitting in the garage for 2 months.

One would hope it boosts her career. She can act too!

The first link is the worst twerking fail ever, a girl is set on fire trying to make a twerking video for her boyfriend, supposedly. This a viral vid with 9M views in 1 week: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CddMD3QqTFs]Worst Twerk Fail EVER - Girl Catches Fire! - YouTube[/ame] This the unedited version: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSJMoH7tnvw]Jimmy Kimmel Reveals "Worst Twerk Fail EVER - Girl Catches Fire" Prank - YouTube[/ame]

I'm very pleased that there is no like button or Fadebook integration.

Fantastically funny.

Thanks. That Sena SM10 only mentions allowing riders to listen to the bikes audio system while I want to be able to talk on the CB, listen to music, use intercom, etc. The SR10 would require me to buy a CB, but the bike already has one. Seems to be a big miss on Sena's part while an admission that they think people want some sort of bridge to BT. Their SC-A0122 5 pin din to 3.5mm stereo plug is the least expensive I've seen at $25 though...

This sounds like "extreme cheapskate" behavior, but I respect that. I always buy the HID low/Halogen high H4 bulbs that switch electrically. The high beam is actually less bright than the HID low and this allows one a more acceptable headlight for group riding, etc. The downside is that switching to HID mode is subject to HID warmup lag.

Lower wattage FINE POINT soldering iron and a wet sponge that is NOT PLASTICS based. The old cheapo sponges that are hard and unbend-able until they are wet is a good choice. One of the keys to soldering is to "tin" the tip, which means to just melt a little solder onto the tip of the iron. Work it around some so that you are assured that the entire tip has an affinity for the solder. Cleanliness is king. Wipe off the excess on the wet sponge BUT you need just a bit of molten solder on the tip to aid in heat conductivity. This is it then, dress or tin the tip and use that to conduct heat to the metal that you want to solder, BUT, apply the solder to the heated part when attempting a bond NOT to the soldering iron. Don't use too much solder, you are primarily just doing a remelt, but a little fresh stuff won't hurt. A remelt is the easiest soldering you can do really. Now the important stuff, once you melt it remove the heat and then DON'T LET IT MOVE! Not a bit. If it wiggled around while it's cooling and rehardening you can create a crude diode junction called a "cold solder joint" that can be responsible for some intermittant failures. Actually it's fairly impossible to not move it at all and the materials are less difficult than I first stated but you need to be aware that you do need to make a good effort to avoid creating a weak joint which absolutely will happen if it moves a lot while cooling. You should have some good magnifying glasses or other optical aid and be careful to heat only what you want soldered, work on only a single connection at a time unless all of the connections are on the same solder pad. Always heat the entire solder pad where multiple connections occur, you are trying to reflow the solder and each pad is a continuous joint except for where it is not, such as ground planes and power buses that may have multiple connections over a physically large area. These have multiple connections but are considered traces rather than pads and each connection would be considered separately except for where many connections converge together. Got it? Go get it.

The blue ones are so fast you can't see them.

I know what a zerk fitting is but what does the slave cylinder have or need a zerk fitting for? NW Omaha.