syscrusher

I was looking at some forward controls for VMAX that mount on lower section of front downtubes. This is roughly where my VR has a couple of hexagonal extensions that I hadn't been able to guess the use for, yet. I am now wondering if those are there as a provision for a forward control setup. So if that's a good guess, would the hole centers match up with the similar provision that I see for a VMAX? Of course you want pictures. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16hHJGoE9nuQhobbBQbd2!(sV!~~60_57.JPG

During the Vintage Festival open house they actually race old bikes: road race, trials, and motocross. Seeing bikes preserved on pedestals with plaques that outline their history is great, and they have a lot of those bikes to show. But hearing them run, watching them make their way down the track attempting to win a speed competition - that's the next level!

If you were to bring your Carbtune to Omaha we could do both of those things . Otherwise I should probably make the trip over your way but next week I will be posting an ad to sell my "pretty car" and won't be able to leave here till that is done. Soon though?

Two places you really should see in Colorado are pretty close together but on the other side of the state from Omaha. Colorado National monument is fantastic and Mesa Verde is even better. The Million Dollar Highway is part of the connecting road and you go right near the Black Canyon of the Gunnison when getting from one to the other.

OK, I think a lot of you are writing down BS or you're running special configs. I tried (of course on a closed track where no laws were broken) and I can barely break 7000 rpm in third at an indicated speed of 90mph, probably actual of 80mph. This is on my 1993 with only 30000 miles on the clock and new diaprahms. I can get it to about 70 in second but haven't tried for max in that gear. It's also pretty slow to crank that many rpms, my VN2K rips through gears much faster and easy to hit the 5200rpm limiter without really trying. On it, you shift, throttle, shift, repeat in rapid succession. The VR takes much longer to max out in gears. What gives? I want a fast VR too, if one is possible for a reasonable amount of tweeking.

I'm using the manual adjustment. Does this make a difference?

I rode home after washing the bike and buying it gas and checked the pressures of CLASS system before leaving it in the garage. I still haven't adjusted the rear at all but it read 71. So the range of values that it gives for the rear is between 31 and 71 without me taking any action at all. Pretty strange...............

My only concern is that the pressure in the front has dropped to 5psi on a couple of occasions and then I filled it back up to 10 or so. My pressure gauge seems squirrelly too, indicating 52 psi in back and then sometimes 31 psi. I haven't adjusted the rear so I don't know if heat and use can cause that variance or not. The front also read 8 when I adjusted it, then I rode about 20 miles and it was reading 11. The ambient temperature was cooling at the time.

385 goes to Alliance, NE where you can see Carhenge but most of the route will be flat desert/grassland. Fort Robinson might be an interesting diversion........ If you're there at the right time of day I highly recommend a jeep ride. Only a jeep can get to where you will be taken to. http://leisuregrouptravel.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Nebraska_FortRobinsonJeep.jpghttp://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/04/33/a9/be/fort-robinson-state-park.jpg

Neutral switch faulty or open/short in leads that causes a false positive "in gear" condition. Clutch disengaged overrides "in gear" so it starts. Disconnect the neutral switch, put in neutral and measure resistance across the switch then put in gear and measure again. If it reads the same then the problem is the switch. If not, then the problem is likely in the wiring. Simulate the neutral switch on the wiring by opening (leaving disconnected) and try starting, then jumper it and try starting. I don't know if it should be normally open or normally closed but if the neutral switch works then you will see from it's behavior (no resistance in neutral means switch is closed when in neutral, infinite resistance means switch is open when in neutral).

Your '83 has a different fork than my '93. On my '93 it is item 10 and I don't see a part drawn in that same location in the fiche for your '83. Maybe someone else can weigh in on whether there is a corresponding critical part on your forks or not.

I don't know if I have the stones just now to re-open these and check them, but I might. I didn't think of inverting the diaphragm, but that would probably have made it easier for sure. I may want to try a credit card for driving the center rim in as far as possible and I may try raising the needle if it bothers me further. I wonder if I can get fuel/air ratios tested for a reasonable price at the local bike shop. It runs smooth but loses cruise sometimes. When I cold start it always has a period where it doesn't like the choke anymore but won't keep running on it's own either.

So I replaced all four carb diaphragms a couple days ago with the Sirius "SD-1". I used my thumbnail to shove the inner "rim" between the two plastic disks on the slide. When I placed the sliders back into the carb bodies and tried to seat the outer "rim" into the groove on the carb bodies it was difficult because the diaphragm was, as the English say, "proud" of the carb body by about 1/4". I had to tuck each down and hold them in place with my fingers spread while I then captured them with the "lid". By gently sliding the lid around slightly I could reach a point where the lid would finalize the placement of that outer rim and I would get a quiet metal-to-metal clapping of the lid onto the top of the carb body, very tedious. It runs well now but it could be my imagination that hard acceleration seems not as hard as I remembered. While the bike was in my garage I had been riding another bike that is quicker and don't know if I'm expecting it to at least perform like that now. The real question is whether the surplus material that I found difficult to tuck in could also be preventing my needle from raising as high as it should? Should I have used some sort of tool to shove more of the center "rim" between the two plastic disks, thereby reducing the amount of surplus material? What have others experience been with this? I still lose cruise control going uphill, etc. What should I look at next to get my cruise control working perfectly?

Let's see if this works. Read abo:cool10:ut the happy news here.

Well, the happy news is that I think I've finally got it right with these forks. The seals on both had begun to leak before I got to doing this, for the third or fourth time on the right. I've lost count on how many times I've had this apart. It's a whole different ride! I have the progressives but with almost no oil on the right side and no air the front end really blew, literally. I re-read my first post on this thread where I mentioned the forks holding 4 or 5 psi but it never held that for long and the oil started showing up right away. The forks have now held 8 psi for several days and 150 miles of mixed riding. My 1993 Royale is equipped with dustcover boots but this time I also added dust seals from the earlier models, partly because I'm considering a Condor Brace and that would limit the effectiveness of my boots. It may make no difference, but as I think about it having the dust seal above the oil seal could be further stabilizing the axis of the upper tube within the fork slider. I will always replace both of those seals on both forks whenever I need to replace an oil seal. I will also always replace the two inner bushing parts listed in the quote box below, unless it's a very premature failure. It's just not worth not doing so, take my experiences as your bad example and get smart.

I don't have the panel and I'm not sure what to offer but I would send you $10 to cover shipping......

Are you suggesting closing the female connectors (sockets) slightly?

Are either one of your radio heads reliable? You're probably tired of looking at those laying around.........

So my radio head unit loses it's mind sometimes with the display digits flashing rapidly or blanking out completely. I kind of understand that but now it sometimes won't tune in strong stations?!? It will play the staticky margins to either side of a strong station or distant stations but then when tuned to the center frequency it becomes silent? I suppose that I should try to obtain a replacement head unit but I just don't understand why it would be doing this. Any ideas?

Really interesting since the condition is so poor. I could understand an original in great condition (shiny chrome, no significant cracks) bringing $800, but not for that one. But nobody deals more motorbikes than the cowpuc so I must be wrong?

So I left Moab, UT near dusk some years back on 128, which follows the Colorado River until basically 128 joins I-70. As it got dark, my headlight illuminated what appeared to be a snowstorm of those white winged flies that sensed the light of my headlight for what seemed like miles away and converged on it. I'm not a big nighttime rider anyway because of the increased danger of hitting something and you miss scenery in the dark but this situation seemed slightly terrifying. I didn't want to stop because I felt I would be eaten alive by this white-out storm of the flies, but visibility was poor as well. I felt a little trapped, seriously. The little bastids were sure hard to scrub away too. Glad you came through alright though.

And a major part of my reason for posting was that without serious penalties for causing accidents involving motorcycles, the trend of this situation seems to be getting worse. The law protects the fragility of the pedestrian to a heightened degree but treats a scooter and a humvee equally. This is in spite of the fact that the rider has little more chance of surviving a collision with a humvee than a pedestrian has.

Good thoughts for all to acknowledge. With E-cigs, I can't see why anyone still lighting em. Gum and patches are frustrating because you have to wait to feel it and it doesn't hit you like a puff but E-cig has little difference from smoke except NO TAR, and no stink. Still not good for you but if you just won't let yourself stop then it's NOT AS BAD. I hope you are feeling good soon, Eck had good advice about taking it slow though.

It's in every driver manual, turning traffic MUST YIELD! We can't see enough of the approach to see whether he was panic breaking, but the turning car should have been certain it could clear the intersection before the bike got there, instead he languished in the path of the bike. What we can see doesn't look like full speed to me. In the interview with the rider he said he was on both brakes and leaped at the same time as he hit the car. Do you ride a motorcycle? The original link disappeared, but here is [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egJzU_29C3I]another one:[/ame]

The car cuts him off with a bone-headed inconsiderate left turn and the rider launches into an amazing cartwheel and walks away. In reference to the thread about the Canadian woman who will go to prison for leaving her car on the roadway where a motorcyclist and daughter hits it and dies, it may seem harsh but I'm seeing a lot of riders killed here by flagrant disregard of cagers. Every week it seems someone is killed by a car turning right in front of them and the news report will say "the driver of the car was not injured, no charges have been filed." The girl stopping for ducks was likely unaware that her actions would kill a motorcyclist but it seems to me that cagers know they will not be injured and likely will not be charged for cutting off bikes, turning directly in front of bikes, running a bike out of it's lane, changing lanes like the bike wasn't even there. Sometimes it makes me wonder about justice......... And now the video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcJO64YiohA]Motorcyclist cartwheels in air after being hit - YouTube[/ame]