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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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About 10 days ago I posted about tingling fingers and my plan to upgrade to Flanders bars and Kuryakyn ISO grips. Well, I've since completed that upgrade with the help of Usnmustang's wonderful pictoral write-up/how to. (Very informative and easy to follow - THANK YOU usnmustang, where ever you are .) Anyway, I've posted some pics for everyone to see the before and after. I think it looks really nice. I didn't put the stock weights back on because I'm not too good at fabrication but I did order the Kuryaky Bullet end weights to complete the look and get it back to real close. I didn't notice any additional vibration without the weight on (none at all as a matter of fact - VERY smooth). Like I said though, I'll put the new ends on if for no other reason than for a place to rest my hand when the cruise is on. You'll see in the pictures I still need to do something with the wiring. I'll probably get some black zip-ties which I think I can make look good. (I'm open to suggestions here so if anyone has a better idea, I'm all ears...) Here are the two questions I have after the install: 1. My new throttle grip doesn't want to snap back like it should. I've adjusted the cables every way I can think of (tighten, loosen and everywhere in between) and the throttle seems to move smoothly enough but I have to manually move it back from about 1/8 throttle. If I open it up to about 1/4 throttle or above it goes back to about 1/8. I hope that makes sense... What's everyones experience with this? Can I lube something to make it better and if so, what type of lube should I use? Other thoughts? 2. My other problem is the clutch. Keep in mind all I did was remove the housing from the stock bar, let it dangle and then put it back on. I didn't mess with it other than that. Now, the clutch seems a) just a little harder to pull and b) when I let it out it catches sooner. I used to get about 1 inch from the bar with the clutch lever before it caught but now it's more like 3/8 - 1/2 inch. Is there any way to adjust that? I guess I can't think of any other way to explain those two problems so I'm looking for anyone that may have suggestions. Hopefully it all makes sense. I'm going on a long ride next weekend and want to make sure it's tip-top by then. Please give me your thoughts. Hope everyone like the pics. Les -
Finally got home after some crazy days of burnedout clutch.the bike ran great thu the backroads of Ky,Ill,and Mo. Got to Branson,got in traffic on the hills clutch started slipping. On the 3rd hill had to pull over it quite moving.Called AAA to haul the bike to the timeshare 3 miles away ,they said NO because I didn't have RV coverage.Had to leave it in a parking lot.Called the Yamaha dealer in Harrison Ark.they said it would cost between $450 to $500 to fix and $150-$180 to get a rollback to haul it 38miles to the dealer.So I knew where to go,VENTURERider forum.The responce was overwheming.First Etcswtoe called with names of members close to Branson ,second Dik01 ,who live about 50 miles away, calle d and offered to get a trailer to take it to the dealer,third Randy R called told me of condor post of bleeding the clutch and then called Goose to call me, and then Goose called me .He talked me out of taking it to the dealer.He walked me step by step how to Repair the clutch and also the phone number of where to get the new clutch.Followed PCW"s and GOOse"s instructions ,had the bike's clutch in 1 1/2 hrs. ANyone can put a clutch in it is simple fix.My Brother-in-law was so supprised my the calls that he has applied for membership.Anyone who doesn't join a club like this one has to be nuts. YOU RIDERS made me realize that there are still people in this country who care. TO ALL THE CLUB MEMBERs WHO HELP ME I WANT TO GIVE YOU A SPECIAL THANK YOU.
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I just bought my Midnight Venture this Monday. My girlfriend and I have decided to tour some with my parents next year. The issue that I am having that might not amount to much but I have not ever seen a motorcycle do this is: If the bike is cold and I go to start it, it will pull it's self up the drive way. I have always parked my bikes with them in gear for safety reasons and never had one do this. My dad said that he has heard of some bikes doing this if they set for long periods of time on a side stand but never had it happen or seen it happen. But this is every day so far, just the first time I start it for the day. Once it warms up it has no more issues. Please help, just need to know what to look for or if I need to take it back to the dealership to get looked at.
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First let me thank everyone who gave me input on my clutch basket change. I switched to a generation I clutch basket, It made no difference at all in fact it added a churp down in my low rpm range. Now I have a churp/whine all the way from 0-70, I will be changing back to the original tomorrow. This 05 Venture is the most comfortable bike I have ever owned, and I've owned many, but this churp/whine p's me off.
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Took off a bit earlier than usual today on my RSV and the temps were a bit low (Around 52 F.). Anyway after about 3 or 4 miles, I passed a cage and decided to distance myself from it quickly. So I cranked on some throttle at about 125 kph (about 78 mph) in 4th (Well, a pretty hard crank!) and the engine revved with little acceleration! Clutch slip!! I eased off then ran it more easily to around 140 kph (About 87mph) and shifted into 5th. I then gave it a good shot of throttle and, sure enough, it slipped again. On the way back, I ran it to 120 kph and when I cranked the throttle in 4th there was either no clutch slip or so little that I couldn't detect it. Now I have read the posts regarding the weak clutch spring and adding a plate, but this slipping when barely warmed up and not slipping when fully warmed up kind of throws me. Am I dealing with just a weak spring or is something else going on here? Any ideas? Andy
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today went to work no problems. comeing home after about 7 miles of easy riding started to feel clutch was going away, had to pull it all the way to grip hard and had to stomp at shifter to change gears. it would take bike out of gear ok at stops but had hard time getting it into 1'st. then almost home had to keep it in third.( i didnt want to brake shifter stomping it )got home and couldnt get it in neutal till i just put stand down then could move shifter like normal. its too dark to see now but there is no leaks, master is a hair over half in site glass, the fluid should be changed as it looks on the brown side. but i dont know if thats the problem. what do you think? it is 83 venture xvz12tk thanks:confused24:
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Two months ago my clutch worked fine, bike has set as I was out of town for work. Get back and have no clutch. I believe my slave cylinder needs to be rebuilt as I do lose fluid over time. usually I can fill the reservoir up do a quick bleed and back on the road. This time not so lucky. When I pull the lever there is absolutely nothing there, as if the lever is not attached to anything. I cannot seem to get it to build pressure. This has been going on for several days. ANy ideas or suggestions?
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Can anyone tell me how much travel should be in the pressure plate when working the clutch lever? Mine travels about 3/32nds of an inch but the clutch does not want to disengage, I'm thinking I might have air in the line but so far have not been able to bleed any out.
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I changed the clutch basket and now the clutch lever will not depress, it's hard as a rock. Anyone else have this and what should I do.
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Been reading some of the post on the clutch noise an not sure if i have the problem or not is this a warranty issue and if so can i find out if the previous owner has already had it done. This is my first Venture and it had 18000 miles on it when i got so it still sounds the way it did my first day so I'm not sure what to be listening for if that makes any sense.
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Resiliently bought an 01 rsv for cheep...now know why...the clutch SCREAMS!!!! I have read all the post on clutch baskets I can find. (H' I' G' ect) Found this one off a 1st. gen and the only letter on is a 'C' etched on the gear itself. I have nothing in it so it is probably worth a try. I will compare them closely when I get the one out of bike, waiting on pcw spring kit. Anyone know about the C basket?? thanks, yammer 2k1 [ATTACH]60850[/ATTACH][ATTACH]60851[/ATTACH][ATTACH]60852[/ATTACH][ATTACH]60853[/ATTACH][ATTACH]60854[/ATTACH]
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Well everyone I come with an interesting story. A while ago my engine was making a weird clanking / rattle noise upon deceleration, in fact I opened a thread on the issue: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61278&highlight=engine+rattle Anyways, under the suggestion of my local Yamaha dealer, i did a complete oil change and switched to the Yamalube 10w 40 mineral oil, when I originally used a synthetic blend Castrol Activo 10w 40. Mind you the bike at the time had around 6k miles. Within 200 miles (4 days) i noticed clutch slipping through the high gears, especially 5th when i was trying to pass. I tore the clutch apart to see if the spring or any of the friction disks and clutch plates were within spec (yes they where). Put it all back together and same issue. So i grabbed 2 cans of brake cleaner and tore the clutch apart. Removed all the clutch components and thoroughly cleaned all of them. Replaced the oil with the original synthetic blend and the problem has gone away. I do realize that to conduct a proper experiment I should have put the mineral oi back into it to see if it did it again, but I just did not want to go through and dismantle the clutch again. To me this sounds weird, but I'm sure there is a logical explanation. Thanks for your continued support. This site is awesome!!
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Hi my 2000 venture's clutch started to slip about a week after ownership in 5th mainly so i decided to source a extra clutch spring to pop in there and hopefully sort the problem, but i decided to pop over to a local v-max spares guy i know. I bought a complete basket with plates etc . Well my original is a H basket, and the v-max one has a scruffy E marked on the back if that means anything on the max's . Well im yet to try it to see if it eliminates the whine as im waiting for a gasket , but i thought you might like a few picks i took to show the difference in the teeth . V-max on the left has noticably narrower teeth to the original H Basket . Does anyone know if the I basket has Narrower Teeth compared to the H ?? Oh and a pic of my clutch basket tool welded a big screwdriver to a spare clutch plate lol
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My 83 will not run with the sidestand down with the bike in neutral with clutch out. If I pull the clutch in just a little bit, it will run. It acts this way with two different CMS's and sidestand switches. When I put it in neutral, the light comes on as it is supposed to, so it appears it is getting power through the shifting mechanism. Any suggestions? RandyA -
Was doing some PM on clutch lever and the pin that goes into the cyl to lever came out of the rubber boot. How in the heck do you get it on the rubber boot again and on to that groove in the middle?
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I have notsed that my clutch lever has been getting less free play "for say." So I was thinking it is time to change the fluid. Did that about 3000 miles ago. Now it started it again. Went to the steeler, thay changed it again. Sed it didn't look good. I told him I just changed it. He didn't know what the problum is. Sed try it and see what hapens. Is this why the the ventures are having clutch slip??? under power pull the clutch intill it starts to slip. Mine startes to do this with very little pull of the clutch lever. Now after new fluid I can squese the lever about 1.5 inches befour it starts to slip. Is this some thing we should be watching for???? Or do I still have some thing wrong????? Thanks For all the help!!!
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I need some help. I am trying to diagnose a problem that just developed with out having to tear the engine apart looking for something that I don't know what I am looking for. Yesterday, I was on the freeway going about fifty to sixty mph, getting up to speed. While at that speed, I heard a sound that SEEMS to be coming from the clutch and/or water pump area. It kind of sounds like loose metal rattling around. Pretty loud. Maybe a sound that it would make if it was starving of coolant or oil. When I get up to 70 mph, it seems to stop, although I can't tell if I just can't hear it because of the wind. This morning I took her out and the sound goes away when I pull in the clutch. But while the clutch is disengaged, if I rev the engine I still hear the noise. I hear no noise at all when it is idling in the driveway or going slowly. It shifts gears fine. I'm thinking it could be a water or oil pump issue and/or a clutch issue. I just don't know. I know I probably haven't given you enough to go on yet... but any ideas or things that I can check would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!! 1998 Royal Star TC XVZ13AT I really thank you for your time and thoughts!! Mike Rice texasrices
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I have been working on my leaking clutch slave all summer. Made the mistake of "having" to have speed bleeders on my clutch slave. That lead to a sheared off bleeder screw, replacement of clutch slave entirely. Now I put on the new clutch slave with the bleeder screw that it came with and had a heck of a time getting the seal tight enough to draw fluid. With much help from here and plumbers tape I got a tight seal and and the clutch working. Now I have the same leak from around the bleeder valve. It can't be tightened anymore. So, how do I get the seal tight enough around this bleeder screw so that it doesn't leak? How do you bleed out the line losening and tightening and keep the seal tight enough when you are done? Can't believe I have to pull the cover, drain the oil, losen up the clutch slave just because they design these things that you can't unscrew the bleeder screw the hole way out. Crazy. Appreciate your help. Sorry for my attitude. It is the 4th time I will have the clutch slave off this summer.
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Ok. I just experienced a wierd feeling in the clutch which i assume is "clutch slippage". I have a 2000 with 34,000 miles. I have done some reading on here and am wondering a few things... 1. Will a new spring stock sping make a difference? I read one post where someone tried the "heavier" spring and ended up replacing it back with a new "stock" spring. 2. Do i need to replace more than a sping? It only has been slipping in 5th gear with a lot of throttle. 3. What exaclty causes this defect? I have owned old GW and never talk of clutch slippage. Thanks, Larry
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Alright, the valve adjustment on my 01RSV and the clutch upgrade, new friction plates and spring, all is well and working beautifully. The vave adjustment, replaced 14 of the 16 shims, they all were ultra tight, caught it just in time at 85,000 miles, anyone doing this be extra sure of the crankcase vent hose routing, mine was crimped, causing the cover gaskets to blow, after 4 tear downs and a lot of head scratching, finally found it, the clutch upgrade was a snap, less than 2 hours and works perfect, a great big thank you to SkyDoc for the kit and the invaluable help with everything especailly the quick shipment of parts and kits. Thanks to the knowledgeable help of the great site, and anyone looking to do clutch up grade I suggest you contack SkyDoc for the kit. On the Road Again, its good for another 85,000. JB:whistling: -
Think my clutch slave has a slow leak 02rsv I've had the bike since may and had to top the reservoir twice now. Actually found what I am pretty sure is brake fluid on the concrete under the bike this morning. I access the forum with tapatalk with my Android. Someone mentioned the shop manual being on this site, anybody have a url for it. And, does the clutch line travel under the engine, found a line with the leaking fluid on bottom side line. I want to make sure its not just a slightly loose connection. Rebuilding hydraulic cylinders wasn't on my list of thing to do this summer. Bob Marshall, il
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Broke my master cylinder clutch... no no not where it would be easy to fix by getting a new lever and installing... The lever broke off WITH part of the master cylinder clutch... aka master cylinder 2 ala BikeBandit and WHEEW is it Expensive... umm so anyone have a spare laying around that doesnt cost almost 300 or know if a welder can fix that piece? Im looked at pinwheel and ebay as well... ALSO if anyone knows what years will fit or if a road star master clutch would work? Thanks all in advance...
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I changed the clutch slave today. The previous clutch slave had a leaky bleeder due to bad female threads. It came with new bleeder screw and inner works. Bled the clutch until I didnt see any bubbles and the clutch was soft and not effective at all. Went and purchased a hand vacumn pump and got so many bubbles it was incredible. Thought was I was maybe getting bubbles from where the hose was. It was on tight. I tried 3 different types of bleeder screws. Same result. Very frustrated. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong? -
Hi Guys i see alot of people go for the mobil 1 semi or fully synthetic oil etc etc, and as ive only just bought my venture ive looked on the net to see what people recommend, as im in the uk i cant get some of the American oils easily! But i was looking at a UK V-Max Specialist website today and they strongly recommend 20/50 mineral oil only . As they say the synthetic runs hotter and causes the clutch and starter clutch to slip ??? I know its a V-Max website but is the engine that different ? Cheers Edge
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I've got the rebuild kit...anyone rebuilt a clutch master cylinder? I have to rebuild my 96 royal star clutch master cylinder...just looking for any helpful hints to get the job done! Thanks gunk:shock3:
