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goatman123

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Everything posted by goatman123

  1. goatman123
    I just replaced the shift shaft seal over the weekend and it seemed to go well. I rode 40 miles to work today no problem. On the way home I needed to downshift for slowing traffic, and I could not push the shifter down to get into 4th gear. The only odd thing I noticed when putting the clutch basket assembly back together was that when I put the splined thrust washer on after the clutch basket, the place on the shaft where the thrust washer ends up has no splines. I thought that was strange, but I know I put the washer on in the correct order, after the basket but before the rest of the assembly. The clutch pull at the handlebar did seem not quite as firm tonight, but that could have been my imagination as I was looking for possible causes as I rode. Each time I could not downshift, I waited a few seconds and tried again and it worked. I upshifted with no problem. Any ideas?
  2. goatman123
    I recently did this job, and the worst part is taking off the body panels. Replacing the cables themselves is not hard, just take your time. I took some pictures as I went just in case, but did not need to reference them.
  3. goatman123
    Mine is on hwy 70 somewhere, in pieces I'm sure. I'll keep on eye on ebay and see what happens. I see one of the original style ones on there now at a crazy price, about $200 if I remember right.
  4. goatman123
    With help from this forum, I finally got my 93 on the road. When I got home from my second ride on it, the reflector on the top case was gone. I have the optional light bar that has the built in turn signals. The 2 amber pieces of the light bar stayed stuck, but I am missing the center red portion. Just wondering if anyone has one of these laying around.(fat chance I know). Thanks.
  5. goatman123
    I followed Skydoc's advice, and removed the battery and battery box, the whole procedure took less than an hour and went better than I thought it would. Unfortunately it still runs poorly, acts like either a vacuum leak or low speed jets clogged. I thought I had both these issues addressed, but back to the drawing board.
  6. goatman123
    Happy New Year to you to Earl, and thanks much for your advice which I intend to follow. I will post results.
  7. goatman123
    Thanks, I will try with just false cover removed and see how it goes. I have had upper fairings off in the past before I realized the plug wires and caps were corroded, and don't really want to take them off again, if you know what I mean.
  8. goatman123
    This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks.
  9. goatman123
    An answer in two minutes, that's a record. Thank you very much.
  10. goatman123
    I changed my tires, and when putting the rear one back on, I forgot where one of the washers goes. On the right side, there is a washer that goes on one side of the brake mounting bracket or the other. Can someone tell me which side? This is a washer that goes on the rear axle, and it will either be up against the wheel on the right side, or between the swingarm and the brake mounting bracket. I put it up against the wheel, but is seems like there may be too much drag from the brake when I spin the wheel. Thanks for any help.
  11. goatman123
    Thanks for the replies. I went with the emgo, ordered it from dennis kirk for 18.99 with 3.00 shipping.
  12. goatman123
    I need to replace my air filter and am looking for advice. I find I can get a K&N filter for less than the OEM filter, or an Emgo replacement for less than that. Any bad experience from using K&N as far as flowing too much air for the stock set up? Any bad experience with the emgo? Thanks for any advice.
  13. goatman123
    From what I've read about the Shinko's, I expect them to be great in the handling department, and not so great in the high mileage department. But for what I paid for them 5000 miles out of the rear tire would still be a good deal, especially if they stick and handle well.
  14. goatman123
    Just an FYI, I bought a set of Shinko 230 tourmasters from Bikebandit today for $119 delivered to my door. That is with free shipping and 10% discount for being an AMA member. They are even throwing in a free set of Motion Pro tire irons. Seemed like a pretty good deal.
  15. goatman123
    The battery is under the false gas tank cover. Open the lid on the cover and unscrew the one screw that is towards the seat. Then push the cover forward towards the dash so the rear of the cover can clear the seat. Pull up and there's the battery.
  16. goatman123
    Try to locate a carb sync tool and see where you are with them. I posted earlier in this thread because I had the same running issue, it would run on choke, run barely on no choke, and try and give it throttle and it would die. That sounds just like yours. All that was wrong with mine was the carbs were out of sync. I did a bench sync using the "eyeball it" method to get the amount of light showing to match at each butterfly, so I didn't think that was going to be my main problem, but it was. This may not be your issue, but I had the exact same problem you are having, and all it needed was the Carbtune. It's worth a try before tearing it apart again.
  17. goatman123
    It could be just out of sync. I just went thru the same issue. At first my problem was one cylinder was not firing, but once I got that worked out, the bike would run like yours. It would run with choke and idle without choke, but as soon as you gave it some gas, it would die. I could only get a reading on the Carbtune from one cylinder at that point. It turned out that it was just way out of sync, and once I got that in line, it runs fine. Good luck.
  18. goatman123
    Well I got the #4 cylinder running, and low and behold, the Carbtune showed some action, but only on #3 cylinder. I adjusted the sync screws from there(they were waay out of wack) and got it running pretty smooth and balanced. I still need to replace the rusty spark plugs and the questionable air filter, but progress is being made! Thanks for the help.
  19. goatman123
    Thanks for replies. Diaphragms look good. Choke is operating correctly. Carbtune is hooked up properly. I have not checked compression, need to go to Harbor Freight and get a tester. What about the #4 cylinder not firing, would that cause no reading on the Carbtune? Maybe that is the whole issue?
  20. goatman123
    I am trying to do a carb sync on my 93 that I am trying to bring back from the dead. I am using a Carbtune, and can't get a reading on it. I assume that is from lack of vacuum. I can't find any vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the carb boots, and the carb diaphragms look good to me. The bike only has 18,700 miles on it, so I wouldn't think the valve train would be out of adjustment. I can get the bike to start and run using the choke, and eventually it will idle without the choke, but if you give it throttle, it will die. With the choke on, it will rev up to 5-6k easily without giving it any throttle. I did find out today that number 4 cylinder is not firing, but I didn't think that would make the Carbtune not move. I get spark at #4, but loosened the carb drain screw, and nothing came out. Carbs will have to come off again, I already cleaned them once and they looked good except the idle jet was gummed shut. Obviously this bike sat for most of its life with only 18,700 miles on it, and I'm sure that's where all of my problems are coming from, but it sure looks nice, so I want to get it going. It has a woodgrain dash that appears OEM, I had not seen one of those before. Thanks for any help.
  21. goatman123
    Did you completely take the carbs apart, including the jet block? Also a carb sync could make a world of difference. I'm trying to resurrect a 93 that I got cheap that also sat for too long, hope you have better luck than I'm having.
  22. goatman123
    Just wanted to give an update on this. I went with MasterGuns solution and tapped the hole deeper but the same size (M6 1.0) and got a longer screw. It tightened down, and I used some permatex on the screw, so hopefully when running again it won't leak. I used the 20% off coupon at harbor freight, and got a 40 piece tap and die set for $9.80! Not the best quality I'm sure, but for my limited use of it, a great deal. Thanks for the help.
  23. goatman123
    The bike is new to me, I have not done any drilling or tapping, but maybe PO did, or maybe he just tightened it too much and stripped the aluminum, not sure. Thanks for the replies.
  24. goatman123
    Is it possible though, that a longer bolt would obstruct the flow of the oil? I did screw in one of the longer bolts and it too won't tighten down. Does anyone see a problem with tapping the hole larger and getting a larger diameter screw? I am afraid to go longer and just tap the hole deeper but the factory size, because there has to be some reason they made that screw shorter. Seems either a helicoil (I have no experience using that) or tapping a larger diameter hole.
  25. goatman123
    Thanks for the reply. I do have the shorter screws in the correct holes, but my main problem now is that the hole is stripped out, the bolt no longer tightens up but just keeps turning.
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