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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Angry, You may just be making a joke, but you do realize there are chrome caps on the bolts? Pry them out with a mechanics pick (nut pick) or a small screw driver. Standard 6mm (IIRC) hex bolt. RR
  2. Leaning
  3. Steve, I have a bunch of balancing beads I'm not using. I found a shop that doesn't charge extra to balance and don't use them anymore. Let me know and I will get them by sometime soon. RR
  4. Check out EddiesRoad.org. Similar goals but targeted to older teens (14-18+) who are about to be moved from the system. Started in memory of Eddie James, one of the iconic Long Distance (Iron Butt) riders and rallymasters of all time. You are a good man working with this organization.
  5. The only adjustment I have seen for the clutch friction zone has been with doing the Freebird mod. This is a mod where the inner 1/2 spring and 1/2 friction plate is replaced with a full friction plate. This mod makes the friction zone smaller and moves it out to the end of travel. The opposite of what you are looking for. If you have (or a previous owner has) done this modification, you should find some relief by reversing back to stock configuration. The Barnett setup will not change the friction zone, however, it will be the best spring upgrade you can do. There are standard and heavy duty springs available for the Barnett. As long as you have a good 4mm ball end Allen wrench, they are easy to change. Standard for MSF class, HD for 2up+trailer trips. Put the bike on the sidestand, you don't even need to drain the oil. Might want to have an extra clutch cover gasket handy in case you rip one. RR
  6. Puc, technically yes. But since you don't really know how much current is being put out at any given RPM, it will not provide the real information you need. An amp meter is the proverbial 'instructions to build a watch' when you really just need to know what time it is. A voltage meter will provide constant status of the charging system. If the voltage is going down, you are drawing more power than the bike is producing. If it is steady at 14.3V (or full green, or whatever full voltage is on your meter), you are good to go. You know the important information as the battery/system voltage is the measure of a healthy electrical system. RR (am an engineer)
  7. Randy, I run heated jacket and gloves, 2 GPSs, radio/XM, charge the phone, all at once. However, I have replaced my headlight and running lights with HID which pull less than the incandescent OEM bulbs. Install a voltage meter for peace of mind. You will likely find running OEM headlamps and running lights along with the heated gear turned all the way up (assume you have a HeatTroller for adjustment), will outstrip your stator at idle. While at full speed, you will be OK. Not sure an upgraded stator will improve the idle issue anyway. Like I mentioned, install a simple volt meter to monitor while you are riding in the cold. RR
  8. Have owned and used the HF lift for several years. Would buy again in a heartbeat. It needs some minor mods such as replacing the front wheel chock with the HF ride-on chock (abt $40 IIRC) and adding some tiedown loops. I also built a small wooden box the same height as the lift. Position it under where the kickstand comes down so I can lean the bike over a bit to support it until I get the straps on. Best money spent on shop equipment.
  9. I'm glad to finally have an opportunity to give back after all the help you provided to my son (and me). Hope things turn around soon. At least you don't need to worry about shoveling snow. Looking forward to seeing you guys again soon. Have a Merry Christmas. RR
  10. Steve, Long Splitter Cable for Gloves/Socks - Warm & Safe Heated Gear, LLC Their gloves are nice also. RR
  11. How is the 2nd gear on your current motor? Might it be time to undercut the gear while you have the engine out? RR
  12. STOP IT!!! It isn't supposed to snow up here this non-summer! RR
  13. This must have been something installed by the original owner since the 2000 (or any 2nd Gen RSV) doesn't come with a compressor. The first gens did, however. RR
  14. Melvin, Pop the back off the fuel pump and check the contacts. That is what goes out on these. You don't even need to remove it from the bike to inspect. I will try to find a link to the thread discussing - with pictures. Found it - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87556&highlight=fuel+pump Do a search in 2nd Gen Tech and you will find several threads discussing this. RR
  15. I put in 10.3 gallons and had just reached reserve. Mind you, I have a 5 gallon aux tank plumbed in. RR
  16. There are cheaper, but not necessarily a better value. The Sena is good product. RR
  17. Why can't you ride? It's was 60+ degrees all weekend. RR
  18. Yes, there are Progressives made for the 2nd Gen. Improves handling and dive. 11-1144 RR
  19. Andrew, Hope they find it. Keep us up to date. RR
  20. Look like a great price for a backup. Good find. For consideration - The Chinese made pump may be perceived as junk, but how well does the Japan version hold up? RR
  21. Think you will find the solution in a different windshield. Unfortunately, can't really help you with that. RR
  22. Check the bottom of the shock for fluid. The OEM shock is a weakness in the RSV. If replacing the Schraeder valve works, great. However, I doubt it. Expect to get familiar with Works and Hagan. Two shock manufacturers that fit the RSV. Both high quality and rebuildable. Look around on here for multiple threads about them. RR
  23. For $620 you can get a custom Russell Day Long. Who would settle for a Mustang at same or more $$? RR
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