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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    It is impossible to check the oil level on a 2nd Gen while sitting on the sidestand unless you have placed that sidestand on something to mike the bike sit completely upright. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Just an FYI - Don found the database problems and got them all fixed for us - man we are SCREWED here without him!
  3. V7Goose
    Lots of threads show the problem, but start with the Help new Member thread in the 2nd Gen tech section
  4. V7Goose
    Don got on the hosting company today about the intermittent performance issues. These current problems started about an hour ago - it looks to me like we might have some corrupt indexes on the database. Maybe they were trying to run some optimization jobs or something. I spoke with Don right after it started, but he was out with clients. I know he'll jump on it as soon as he gets back. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    OK dude, take a deep breath and try to grok this - quit THINKING it is hard - you will soon realize how simple it is. First, your bike is NOT an XVZ1300 - that is an obsolete designation. Like Ruffy said, Your bike is an XVZ13TFSY. If it is a California model, it will have a C on the end. The ONLY difference (that I know of) on the California model is the addition of a charcoal canister and extra vent hoses on two of the carburetors. So for all intents and purposes, you can just ignore the "California" issue. We would ordinarily refer to your bike as simply an RSV or an XVZ13 - You do not need to even think about the other letters in the model number unless you are trying to find replacement parts for the front end (such as fairing, windshield, radio, etc.) or the gas tank. You find the model number in the Owner's Handbook. If you did not get one, first, call your dealer lots of ugly names, then download it here: http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2009/LIT-11626-22-50_RoyalStar_Venture_1578.pdf The "S" in the model name simply means that your bike has chrome forks and chrome on a few other items on the handlebars. We know that yours is an "S" model, because ALL Ventures in that color are 2009 Royal Star Venture S models. Understand that ALL Royal Star Ventures, from 1999 through 2011, are virtually IDENTICAL except for color. There have been a very few technical improvements over the years, such as improved antenna mounts and an improved rear shock, but even in those cases, you would always use the newest part on ANY Venture. For your purposes, understand that ANY accessory that will fit ANY RSV model year from 1999 or newer will fit perfectly on your RSV. Trust us, the parts, ALL of them, DO interchange. Unfortunately, Yamahaha has already discontinued just about all the accessories for this bike, so you will have to do a lot of searching. I personally will NEVER EVER buy from ebay, but I must sadly admit that it may be your best bet. But do not forget to check out JC Whitney - they actually have a lot of things for this bike (including the light visors). Good luck in your search, Goose
  6. V7Goose
    A non-Yamaha filter would not have any affect on warranty coverage unless Yamaha could identify some specification about it that was inferior in some way to the recommended filter and could contribute to improper oiling of the engine. If you use an aftermarket filter that the manufacturer lists as specifically for this engine, they they will most likely go to bat for you - they really do not want anyone to be able to say a warranty was denied because of their filter. However, if you use any of the common automotive replacements (like I do), you would be completely on your own in trying to prove it met or exceeded all requirements. And if the Yamahaha says the filter failed in some way, thus causing the failure, then you are liable to be caught in the middle of a finger-pointing argument. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    This is excellent advice. Unless you are just going to roll over and pay for the privilege of taking it in the shorts, be vary careful about anything you tell them or give them now; they WILL use it against you once they have started the screwing process of their customer. If they have found something specific where they believe improper maintenance could have caused it, then they should tell you that, and asking for your evidence in that case would be appropriate. But it sounds like they are just fishing for reasons to refuse your claim, so don't play that game with them. Good luck, Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Well, we tried to tell ya up front to create this record. The fact is, (IMHO), only a **** dealer would play that game, but once they start down that path you are screwed unless you can play it with them. Too danged bad they are more interested in screwing the customer than dong their job. Good luck in putting your record together - it CAN be done. But if they continue to play the game and try to get away without honoring the warranty, I suspect it will be WELL worth your money to hire a lawyer. Although I am NOT a lawyer, I do think the burden of proof is on them, NOT you. That means they have to find evidence that something went wrong because maintenance was not done, then, and only then, it is up to you to provide evidence that you actually did things right. You do need to know that US law specifically provides for a vendor that wrongly tries to deny a warranty to have to pay all fees and expenses incurred by the customer forcing them to honor the warranty. Please don't let these shysters get away with such dishonest behavior. There is no way you should get screwed being forced to pay for that repair! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    FYI - I have used DOT3 in my clutch with no problems at all for the past 50,000 miles or so (with lots of 500-1000 mile days in blistering summer heat). Yes, our bike specifies DOT4, and that is the best choice. But here is my logic: 1. I had DOT3 fluid sitting on the shelf. 2. DOT3 and DOT4 fluids are completely compatible, so no problem mixing it or switching from one to the other without doing special system cleaning. 3. The only difference in the specs is that DOT4 has a higher boiling temperature. 4. The dry boiling temp on both is over 400 F, and thus excellent, but the big issue is the "wet" boiling temp. The wet temp is the boiling point of older fluid that has absorbed moisture. DOT3 is 284 F while DOT4 is 311 F. 5. That difference is very significant on brakes, where the slave cylinder is in direct contact with the brake pads, which generate a lot of heat in hard use. However, our clutch is a very different animal. 6. A wet clutch is not going to generate significant heat from friction. And even if it did, the slave cylinder is only connected to the pressure plate by a long rod, so it cannot absorb significant heat that way. While the slave cylinder is mounted directly to the engine case and will therefore run at the same temperature, there is no way your engine oil is going to run over 280 F without doing damage to your engine; therefore, the wet boiling point of DOT3 is not an issue. So I chose to use some of the the old DOT3 fluid I still had on the shelf (but ALWAYS use only new un-opened containers). As I have had no clutch problems, that was a good choice for me. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    This site seems generally a little slow in all aspects this morning - searching for new posts, just displaying the last post in a thread, etc. All of these actions are taking 4-10 seconds. But this is very different than the recent problems where most things were normal speed but saving new posts took ages. Saving new posts this morning is taking about the same time as everything else. I did check a range of other sites, and all others are performing very well for me, so the apparent minor slowness here is not related to my connection or ISP. Goose Edit: problem may be getting worse as we type - this message took about 35 seconds to save!
  11. V7Goose
    Looks to me like the diodes are backwards. The cathode (band) needs to point towards the coils. It makes absolutely no difference which two coils you use, but why in the world would you chose one rear coil and one front one??? It only makes sense to me to use two coils close to each other (#2/#4 under the tank or #1/#3 under the swing arm) Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Me no likey VMAX rear end - no no no. Well, to be honest, I guess I just imagine I no likey, since I don't have one, but I think the stock gearing is just fantabulously spot-on. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    IMHO, there is absolutely no advantage in the situation you describe (happy with the stock). In fact, I find the stock performance of this machine just about perfect when ridden correctly. But everyone gets to have their own opinion, right? Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Well, we ALMOST deserve - been an ice storm here this week. Still about 14 degrees outside now, forecast is for 9 degrees tonight. I got up this morning and found a couple of pipes frozen in the attic - same ones that froze and totally destroyed my entire house while I was on vacation six years ago! At least this time I was here and manged to get the water flowing in them again before the pipes split!!! We are not supposed to get above freezing until Friday, or maybe even Saturday. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    The long range forecast seems to look pretty darn good around here for your proposed dates - only goes out to 2/16, but supposed to be in the 70s on that day, both here and down in San Antonio - looking GOOD!
  16. V7Goose
    I just did a few posts in the testing forum (so not to overly clutter this thread more),a nd all responded in about 3 seconds. So at the moment things look good again. I'll keep an eye on it and periodically test in that other thread and update you this afternoon. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Although I have not been paying super close attention, it seems to me that I have been having real slow saves on the majority of new responses for quite some time (weeks?), but most everything else clicks along pretty normal. I'll edit this response in a minute with the time it takes to save it now . . . Goose This one only took 3 or 4 seconds.
  18. V7Goose
    took 10 seconds for that second response. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    That last response took well over a minute of clock time for the screen to respond! Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Man, response time saving new replies yesterday sucked - ranging from about a minute of clock time to several minutes in one case. I'll let you know in a bit how today seems. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Sorry, I can't help with the bike rentals - I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, not San Antonio. But that does give you more options - make sure to check for tickets to DFW as well as San Antonio. If you can save money flying in here, we can just ride down to the Hill Country together. Let me know if I need to look for bike rental options in this area. You will probably want to stay in Kerrville. If your plans firm up, we can talk about the details. I imagine we will probably find a number of other riders to join us if you come down. Althogh Texas is a BIG place, the Hill Country is centrally located enough for lots of people to join us if the weather is looking good. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Well Sir, I have not looked at tickets, pricing or anything, but you might want to at least consider the Texas Hill Country (fly into San Antonio). Guarantee you would enjoy riding the Three Sisters. Absolutely three full days of fun. I could meet you down there and play tour guide . . . Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Brake fluid (all types except DOT5) is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and absorbs moisture from the air. This moisture does two very bad things - it causes corrosion inside the brake system, and it boils from brake heat, sometimes causing total loss of brakes. A note of caution here - NEVER NEVER mix DOT5 fluid with DOT3 or DOT4! DOT3 and DOT4 are compatible, but DOT4 has a higher boiling temperature, and our bikes specify DOT4, so that is the only fluid you should use. The more water the fluid has absorbed, the browner it gets. Also note that the little sight windows in the master cylinders are only letting you see through a VERY thin layer of fluid (less than 1/8"), so if you can detect any brown color there at all, your fluid is VERY bad. Fresh fluid is a very pale tint, almost totally clear. The fluid can absorb moisture because the brake system is not a sealed system - the master cylinder must be vented to allow the fluid to move in and out of it during normal brake operation. Generally the clutch fluid turns brown much faster than the brake fluid simply because it is operated MUCH more frequently, this it is constantly sucking small amounts of moist air into the master cylinder. The rubber boot that sits on top of the fluid in the reservoir provides some protection from this moisture, but not complete. And old rubber brake lines also allow some moisture to enter. Fluids should be changed in cars and trucks too, but I won't embarrass myself by telling you when the last time I changed it on my 1994 F250! The bottom line for me is that the bike has fewer brakes, and the result of a brake problem is probably going to be much more catastrophic, so I don't let this bit of maintenance slide too long on a bike. And besides, changing the fluid is very easy and quick with nothing more than a hand operated vacuum pump. Just be careful to not let any fluid get on your paint. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    There is a note at the end of the periodic maintenance chart that states this requirement. At least the note is in the 2005 and newer owner's manuals - I cannot say for certain it is in yours; there are changes in the owner's manual every year. In fact, the oil change schedule for the first couple of years was every 8,000 miles, but then it was changed to every 4,000 miles (I'd suggest you use the 4K interval). The rubber parts are seals and o-rings, these are all the parts you would get with a cylinder rebuild kit - cannot swear they sell a kit for this bike, but they should. Even though the manual does say to replace them every two years, almost nobody does it as long as the brakes are working fine. Not saying you should skip this, just telling you why you don't see much talk about it. I particularly wanted you to focus quickly on a master and slave cylinder rebuild very quickly if you notice anything strange at all about your brakes, especially since your bike has done so much sitting, as that destroys those seals much faster than regular use. But even if everything seems fine, it would still be an excellent idea. Then keep your fluid changed regularly and ride a lot to keep the new seals fresh! Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Welcome BigDawg - glad you found us. Do not count on more than 10,000 from those stock rear pads! Many folks find the inside one completely gone by 8,000. This is not an issue with folks riding the rear brake - it is just the stock rear brake pads are junk (IMHO). And the excess wear on the inside pad doesn't make any sense at all with active pistons on both pads, but it affects almost all of these bikes. This means that you cannot trust the pad wear by looking at only the outside pad - too bad, 'cause that is the only one that is easy to see! Spirited riding in the twisties with trail braking will eat those stock rear pads way faster than you can imagine, even if you totally avoid the rear brake in most other riding, so keep an eye on that inside one. You will have to pull the saddlebag and take off that plastic cover to peer in there with a flashlight to see how much material is left - the tire blocks your line of sight if you try to inspect it from behind. With decent pads on the rear, many of us just swap the inside and outside pads every time we replace the rear tire - this will make them last MUCH longer if they are not wearing evenly. You can find lots of information on this subject by looking at the many older threads dealing with it. The most popular replacement brake pads are EBC HH pads, and those will generally last between 30,000 and 40,000 miles on the rear. Stock front pads generally last for at least 50,000 miles, even for riders who heavily favor the front brakes (like we all should). I think that the EBC pads are the pest choice for replacing the front, too. Goose
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