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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Can't say for sure what exactly the problems are with this new release, but it seems that it may be related to the way I use it - I constantly have 8 or more tabs open on sites I check regularly, but I do not check all of them every day. More often than not, if I am actively checking and switching between a couple of sites, all those sites work fine, but if I decide to check out one of the tabs that I haven't visited for over a day, it and other idle tabs are completely dead, but the ones that have been active continue to work fine. Finding dead tabs has been a daily event for me since I upgraded, so it absolutely seems to be related to FF4. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Thanx Tom, at least that tends to confirm that it is a real site problem. This Firefox 4.0 is sooo bad, I cannot tell what to believe when I have any problem - getting ready to go back to 3.1.16! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Don, any chance you are using Firefox 4.0? I ask because I have found an insidious problem where it just stops responding, and it is not site specific. Usually this shows up as no links working (just get a split second flash on the refresh button, no matter what you click on), but sometimes you get a timeout error or cannot access error. So if you are using FF4, it might not be the site at all. And if you have not yet upgraded to 4.0, DO NOT! Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Yes. a self contained unit that can be inserted in the cassette player with the door closed (weatherproof) and does not have to be mounted somewhere. No wires is a cleaner option. To me, that is a better option. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Your bike already has a power outlet on the left side of the fairing - that is what most of us use. If you want a permanent wire, I'd suggest you simply tap into those same wires behind the outlet inside the fairing. That circuit is already fused with a 5 amp fuse, more than sufficient for your needs. And you can download an owner's manual free from Yamaha's web site. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Now THAT's a Girlie Boy if I ever did see one!
  7. V7Goose
    Wow, that is cool! If I didn't use my GPS for a music player, that is exactly what I would want Thanx for posting it. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Well, if getting to 55 quickly is all that is needed, just leaving it in 2nd gear and nailing the throttle will do it cheaper and a heck of a lot quicker than most other bikes on the road - no mods needed! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Good question - I cannot give you a definitive answer, 'cause I have never had to check one. But I'd start with the shop manual - see if the detailed specs show inches or mm Hg for the pump. If so, pretty easy to just hook up a vacuum gauge and trigger the pump with a jumper. But I would certainly expect the shop manual to have diagnostics in it for this part. If no spec, then I'd start by using a manual pump on the vacuum motor to see how much vacuum is needed to pull the throttle to mid point, then see if the pump (WITH the installed hose) can pull the same vacuum. At that point, I would use whatever info I found to decide on the next tests. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    It should actually fit just fine in a USPS $4.65 flat rate envelope too, unless you are sending the whole basket! I'll take it if still available - I'd like to test some different springs if it fits the 2nd gen. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Pay close attention to those lights - the cruise system does have self-diagnostics. IIRC, When it kicks off normally, the ONLY change in the lights should be the Set light going off and the Res light coming on. Your use of the word "flurry" makes me suspicious something else is happening. The slow to catch thing you describe is a common complaint, but it is not usually near as bad as some riders make it sound. Simply being careful to not let go of the throttle too quickly when hitting the set button is all it should take - and by that, I mean just holding it for about half a second. If it is taking any longer than that to engage and hold the speed, then we are right back to checking the cable for lube and adjustment and good vacuum from the pump. Hitting the accel button does nothing more than add that half second or so, making you think it is working differently. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Heavy head winds should NOT cause this problem except very rarely and in very unusual circumstances. Nothing about the "load" on the engine has anything to do with it, only if the speed drops more than 5. For any wind to cause it to disengage, it would have to be such a severe gust to instantly drop your speed by 5 MPH. If the winds are the issue, then the three main possibilities are dirty or misadjusted cable, bad vacuum motor, or bad vacuum pump/vacuum hose. In those cases, the cruise may be working, but just not able to react at normal speeds to open the throttle when needed. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    The only cable that is involved runs from the vacuum motor in the lower left cowl to the throttle cable junction under the tank. Very unlikely that is the problem. You did not tell us what other symptoms you may have had when it kicks off - was the speed holding steady or falling? If there is a cable problem or vacuum pump problem, the system will not be able to hold speed and it will kick off when 5 MPH below set point. Easiest way to check this is to just not let go of the throttle when you set cruise. By manually holding the bike speed at or above the point where you set the cruise, it should never kick off unless the problem is electrical. Goose BTW - we are all assuming you know that you cannot have any fringe or other bicycle-type stuff hanging off your clutch and brake cables!
  14. V7Goose
    The clutch and both brakes have switches that will disable the cruise. This test is not definitive, but is an easy check that might help to quickly identify if one of those is the problem. When engaging the cruise, hold the clutch lever OUT with your fingertips. If it still disengages, try the same thing with the front brake, then with the rear brake by holding the peddle up with your toes. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Yup, you got a three cylinder bike. Couple of things that could be causing it, but since you are under warranty, make them fix it. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    The words we choose do not always mean the same to someone else as they do to us. I am particularly keying in on your statement "slight grade". For comparison, my RSV with close to 100,000 miles will pull a "moderate" grade on cruise, in 5th at 65 MPH, 2-up and fully loaded, with absolutely no problem at all. The only thing that throws my cruise for a loop is a roller coaster road where it is desperately trying to slow the bike down on the down slope from one hill and then finds itself unable to react fast enough on the next up-slope before the speed drops 5 MPH below the set point. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Well, it is hard to say just based on that info, but what you describe is absolutely not typical of this bike. Sounds an awful lot like you are only running on three cylinders. What is your top speed? Three will generally flag out around 85 MPH, but if you can get it up to 100 MPH, you are running on all four. Besides the speed test, you should do a quick fingertip/cold start test to see if all four headers get too hot to touch within 30 seconds or so. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    But the real kicker is that there is a 99.0062579% chance that he needs absolutely NONE of those parts! He MAY need a couple of rubber caps for about $2.00, and he almost certainly needs his jets cleaned and a good sync, but that is it. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Are you getting ripped off? Absofrigginlutely! You are not to far away - ride that thing down here and we'll get it taken care of for a mere fraction of that cost. Give me a call if you want to talk about it. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Well, everyone has been whining so much that they wish Yamaha would take this no-cost feature away, so I guess they did it. Too bad you were someone who wanted it! Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Cant be the same - Honda Refrigerators do not use the same tire sizes as we do, and the newer ones use radial tires. I do not damn all Bridgestone tires (do not have experience with all of them), just the ones that Yamahaha stupidly puts on our bikes. It is very tempting to think that the manufacturer would actually do decent testing and performance evaluation for tires they will fit on a new machine, and that they actually recommend acceptable tires. But the facts here absolutely prove that is not the case for the RSV. Here's why: Yamaha specs two different tires for this bike - the Ridgestone Excedra and Dunlop D404. While I do not expect a manufacturer to test all available tires, if they are going to spec two different brands for the same machine and not list them for different riding styles, I DO expect those two tires to perform similarly. But these tires are VERY different. For example, the Bridgestone front tire is MUCH wider than the Dunlop in the same size, and it also has a much less rounded profile. This means that it is impossible for it to handle anything like the Dunlop tire does, even when both are brand new. And that grossly fat and less rounded profile front tire is EXACTLY why a new RSV feels like it weighs about 3,000 pounds and tries to force the forks over to full lock the first time you make a slow turn in a parking lot! But the ones fitted with Dunlops do not suffer from this fault nearly as much. As for why I hate the Bridgestone rear tire - those are very different reasons. First, it wears much faster than ANY other rear tire I have tested; 8,000 miles is max life for me on that POS. Now usually a tire that wears fast means that it has very soft rubber, so it should stick like glue while it has any of that rubber left. NOT so with this tire!! When riding an RSV with stock Bridgestone tires, I constantly had the rear tire break lose - even moderate acceleration while running up through the gears would cause some side slip on 2nd and 3rd gear shifts if done in anything but completely straight line riding. And wet roads were an experience not to be taken lightly. Next, that reat tire starts wearing flat across within even a few hundred miles, and by the time the center is dangerously low around 7,000 miles, the sides of the tread look like the lugs on tractor mud tires. No other tire I have ever ridden has lost the rounded profile of the rear tire as quickly or totally as this tire does. And that wear characteristic is the biggest reason that rear tire HOWLS!!! And boy does it howl - by 2,000 miles or so it starts, and the problem gets progressively worse as the tire wears flat. Just very slight weaving in your own lane will generate wicked howls, and if you actually lean it over in turns, you can be forgiven for believing the rear end gears are about to strip completely out! But the howling is not the worst thing that comes from that square profile the rear tire develops - those sharp edges on the tread begin to handle just like a car tire does on a motorcycle - the bike cannot roll over smoothly on a turn - it has to tip up on the edge with a very small contact patch and then pitch in quickly. And those sharp edges grab any imperfections and cracks in the road and try to jump over them - even very slight ridges, like the raised paint stripes, cause the bike to jump around like a crazy barefoot idiot on hot pavement. The Dunlop D404 is just an average tire - it handles OK, but there are many better options. The Brickstone Excedra is the most gawdawful total POS ever made. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Don pretty much hit it all. Sync is the prime suspect to cause this, and something affecting the combustion on one cylinder (such as coil, plug, plug cap, carb jet, etc.) is next in line. You didn't tell us what speeds/gears you were getting the problem when you rolled on the throttle, so no way for us to comment effectively on that. But for the sake of other potentially new members I'll just explain that a little - we assume you know that trying to roll on the throttle at too low an RPM will produce the EXACT symptoms that you describe. Just to sum up - vibration in this engine under acceleration is cause by one of two things - either the RPMs are too low, in which case the engine will shudder and vibrate even if all is set up perfectly, or at lest one cylinder is not pulling an equal load. The solution is to sync the carbs, make sure the RPMs are above 2,500 (minimum of 65 MPH in 5th), and do a hot reading of the plugs to evaluate how the combustion is working to spot a possible problem. But do not forget to do the cold start finger tip header test - that is the best way to find a dead cylinder without a bunch of other tests! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I understand where you are coming from. But as I said above, I don't think anyone said or implied that at all. And as I specifically said in my post, if there is something about that kit that you find of value over the competition, then you made the right choice to buy it. I know it will function well for you. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Rick, buddy, it seems to be time to clear the air here - you have taken exception to things that were not even said in this thread. I didn't see anybody say you shouldn't spend more money for something you wanted. In addition, nobody ever said or tried to imply that the Barnett pressure plate and PCW spring were the same thing. I DID say that the Barnett functioned as good as the PCW spring - if that upsets anyone, I cannot understand it. As for the comments about its looks, they were jokes between several of us, and none of them were even posted in response to someone saying they preferred the Barnett pressure plate. I did take exception to several posts that tried to state good things about one spring kit in such a way to imply that those specific things were in some way different or better than you would get with the competition. That is uniformed at best, and dishonest at worst, and I wanted to make sure that other members would have the information to evaluate the options. I do have my opinions on the Barnett kit, but I did not mention them in any way except to say it performed as well as the PCW spring. Stating that it costs nearly twice as much is a fact (assuming my memory is correct on the price). I do not know why someone would take exception to sharing that fact. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Well, I have given very specific information on exactly what is wrong with the stock Bridgestone tires in many threads, including detailed evaluations of both the front and rear tires separately. Here are two links, but if you search for postings by me and the key word "brickstone", you will find MANY others. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20815&highlight=brickstone http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86&highlight=brickstone The bottom line for me is that you absolutely cannot imagine just how terrible those tires make that bike handle until you try an RSV or RSTD with decent tires. Yes, the bike can be ridden with them, and even ridden well. And as long as you don't have anything to compare them with, it is even quite possible to believe that they aren't too bad at all - I did, until I finally tried something else. And then I truly regretted the 8,000 miles I stupidly suffered with those terrible things on an otherwise great bike! Goose
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