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WiVR

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Everything posted by WiVR

  1. WiVR
    Thanks Earl- I'll give it a try.
  2. WiVR
    I recently bought a couple lower fairing legs as I was told the finish was shiny. Actually the paint finish is dull with a more "satin" like finish compared to the high gloss on the other pieces of my bike. Color is good, just not shiny at all. Has anyone had any luck bringing back the shine with wax or spray gloss clear coat? I really don't want to take them to a body shop. Thanks
  3. WiVR
    If you are sure the CarbTune is clean, you can always turn the CarbTune upside down and it will work fine. You will be able to see the metal rods and synch the carbs. I still have to do this with mine. I also had the idle issue and still have the "float down" issue to some degree, but has mostly disappeared. I drained my tank, drained the float bowls, sucked straight seafoam through the fuel pump line and let it sit for a few days (drained bowls and repeated) and also used a very small small wire to clean out the pilot jets in the carbs. I think the pilot jet cleaning made the most immediate difference. I also ran a full can of seafoam with 1/2 tank of gas, then 1 can to full tank several times and now things run pretty normal. My bike had sat for quite a while before I bought it and things were pretty gummed up.
  4. WiVR
    I had the same hesitation off idle problem. When I replaced my diaphragms I went to 2 washers, then 3. My bike likes the stock set up better. I am averaging around 42-43 MPG with the stock spacer.
  5. WiVR
    I am getting ready to relocate my TCI box. I almost have it released from the current convenient location and I would like to put it on top of the airbox. It sounds like some of you have routed the 2 connector cables up the left (?) side if the airbox. Once disconnected from the TCI is there enough slack in the 2 cables that they can be slid up the side without removing that darn box? How did you secure the TCI to the airbox lid? Also, my connector cables were puked on from the old battery right where the wires enter the white plastic connector. Is there a "best way" to clean that stuff off without damaging the wires? Thanks Kevin
  6. WiVR
    I have used JB Weld and re-cut the threads on my stock antenna to make it work but my question is about the Firestick performance. My stock antenna's reception is just OK at best and I am wondering whether the Firestick is a great improvement. I can't get much AM/FM reception unless I am near the City.
  7. WiVR
    Did you folks use the standard firestick and were there any other things you need to get to install? I have an 86 VR with CB and std 1 antenna mount.
  8. WiVR
    I have to get a couple other things so I will try the washer. I may also try a little JB Weld and a die to cut through the JB. Thanks for the info. Kevin
  9. WiVR
    I am having trouble tightening my antenna to the base. The black plastic piece which houses the female portion of the antenna mount screws on to the base seemingly all the way and then won't tighten up. The male thread sticking up from the base into the antenna starts to spin. Is this normal and if not, is there any way to fix it? Looks like it's sealed. Thanks Kevin
  10. WiVR
    Bongo is your man. He may still have pictures of the process. The longer exhaust "hanger" bracket was made from basic aluminum barstock with a couple holes drilled. That was the toughest part.
  11. WiVR
    It can be done. I put them on my 84 before I sold it. Involves some new bolts and spacers. Not difficult at all and works great. The group on this forum helped me out before the site crashed. I will see if I have any details otherwise I am sure someone here will jump in with the details.
  12. WiVR
    All the plungers appeared to work well. I lubed the shafts and #2 had a few bubbles around the nut at the base of the plunger but I tightened and they are gone. I adjusted the idle back up to 900 and went for a spin. Same problem. In fact when I back off the throttle/pull clutch to shift, the RPM's increase a little. If I hold in the clutch they will hang and slowly float down. This is only happening when I am in gear/moving. When I am in neutral, revs go up and down normally.
  13. WiVR
    New plugs and wires today. Old plugs don't look bad at all. PO said they were changed about 500 miles ago. Wires looked original (22,000 miles). Re-synched with Morgan Carb-Tune. Synched nicely at about 900RPM. No change with original float down issue. Before I synched, I tried the C screw 1/2 turn back out. Actually made situation a little worse. Marcarl- can I do your procedure from "outside" the bike or do I need to open something up? As it is I am riding at Kevin
  14. WiVR
    Still no cruise. Power light comes on but no set or resume. Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, worked the cancel button and pushed out on both grip levers. Also lifted the rear brake pedal with my foot. All tried at over 50MPH. No luck.
  15. WiVR
    Worked on this again today. Adjusted the "adjuster" near the carb and up near the grip. Checked for vac leaks around all the boots. Inspected cable at carb end for fraying. Cable snaps back sharply on it's own when I release grip. Same condition- rpms stay or float slowly down when I pull the clutch in when shifting. The bike revs normally in neutral. No float-down issue. Only way so far to solve the problem is to back out idle adjuster knob so idle drops to around 400 (then will run a bit and die). I have to keep the idle up at the grip when I stop, but otherwise the bike runs great. Still stumped.
  16. WiVR
    While my signal fuse seemed to be tight enough, I removed it and wired an in-line holder. Went out for a 50 mile joy ride this morning and it looks like it took care of the problem. Still don't have cruise. Lights all come on when powering on and power light stays on but won't set. Thanks for all the help.
  17. WiVR
    Bike is running good (other than slow RPM drop - detailed in another post). Don't feel a misfire when the display disappears or tach acts up. Cruise power light will remain on during the dash failures.
  18. WiVR
    So I may have several problems: Signal fuse. When I pull on this my display goes dead. TCI- I will dry this out. Will I need to pull the airbox to remove this? Possible #2 coil. Although when the tach "floats" I don't feel anything different in engine performance. Could the TCI cause the RPM display variance by itself?
  19. WiVR
    Well I am getting ready for bed and just turning off the computer but I had to go look. The PO replaced 2 of the fuses with inline, but the signal and tail fuse remain in the clips. This looks very promising. The clips feel a bit loose on the signal fuse and I was able to re-create the problem by a little upward pressure with a screwdriver. Unfortunately I have a couple 15 hour days coming so I won't be able to get at this until Sat. My question at this point would be relating to the cruise control. While I get the power light, I can't set or resume (also no light) and this was occurring while the dash was functioning OK. Would the problems still be related? Granted if the fuse fixes my dash problem I will be very happy but it would be nice to get the cruise back. Thanks all.
  20. WiVR
    The PO put an in-line in for the headlight and one for the ignition. have not dried out the TCI yet. Bike was garaged by PO and I have not ridden in the rain. Maybe still needs to be done. Is the ground point the same on the 86?
  21. WiVR
    I got to the back of the panel and sprayed greased all the connectors I could find, including the 2 big white ones plugged into the back of the dash. I didn't look for the grounds on the frame yet. Put it mostly back together and only had time for a few mile ride. It didn't fail yet but the tach still bounces a bit intermittently, and thats what it did before it cut out completely so I don't think it's completely fixed yet. I haven't found the post you referred to yet- I have been searching. Thanks
  22. WiVR
    It does. I adjusted that before I synched the carbs. I have kept a small amount of slack in the cable regardless of the idle adjustment. I don't know what else to adjust/inspect/clean.
  23. WiVR
    Like squeezing a ballon. Take care of one thing and another pops up. Since I picked this up a few weeks ago, I have drained the tank, installed new diaphragms, soaked the carbs for seven straight days with seafoam straight from the can through the fuel pump, drained and flushed the carbs at least 10 times, changed the fuel filter, run 3 tanks of gas through with 1 can seafoam per tank, changed oil and filter, soldered the pins on the class controller and cleaned out the rear master bleeder hole. I know there's still more to do but I have spent more time working than riding. Weather is finally getting nice in WI and would like to get these couple issues resolved if poss. Thanks for all the help. This is a great forum.
  24. WiVR
    They are synched perfectly at 950. I also checked them at 2000 and 3000 and they are pretty close. If I crank the idle adjuster knob all the way out, the idle will drop to about 400 and eventually die. But if I ride the bike like that, all is great. Just have to keep the grip twisted a little when I stop. Only have the problem with the RPM slow drop down when I adjust the idle to 900/1000. So I can get good idle but the RPMs wont come down (or very slowly) when shifting or a lousy idle and normal RPM behavior when shifting. Revs fine in neutral. RPMs drop normally.
  25. WiVR
    Carb synch done. Idle, 2000 and 3000. Very close.
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