Jersey Devil

Here's another site www.v4hondabbs.com/

I'm at my wits end. I haven't rode my 89 VR since last summer and yesterday went to sync the carbs after changing the plugs. I hooked up my Cartune II up and it read very low readings. I attempted to adjust carb #1 to #2 and got not reading. I need to know which way to turn the adjustment screw to at least close the throttle plate. I only attempted to adjust the one carb and couldn't so I quit before I screwed it up anymore The bike wont hold a constant idle, it goes up and down and when you rev up the engine it settles back down slowly. I did tighten up the clamps on the carb boots. I haven't tried spraying starting fluid to see if there is a vacuum leak. Any suggestions will be appreciated as I had to walk away before I got more frustrated. I did have stabilizer in the tank. One note is that I can feel the vacuum pulsing in the Carbtune lines and when I take out the restricters the rods bounce all over the place. I also cleaned the Carbtune rods as per the instuctions and it worked when I put vacuum to it with my Mitymite. Help please. Dave

Just checking.

The foam that they are made of is similar to the material that tool box drawer liners are made of, just a little thicker. I could trace mine onto a piece of paper and send it to you and you could make your own pretty easily. I'll check at Sears Hardware and see if they have pieces big enough to use. Dave 89 VR

JB, thanks. I'll check into the mileage limit. Dave

I got a letter from my insurance company today asking me the value of my 89 VR. Mine is in what I consider excellent condition with 21,800 miles. The only option on it is the lighted chrome rear bumper. I put on a rivco oil filter adapter, cable upgrade and braided ss brake lines. Kelly Blue book lists it at $3495 and NADA list it at $4125. I carry full coverage on it. Apparently the insurance company, Foremost considers it a classic if it has under $500. in accessories. I have the option of keeping street or classic insurance. My questions are should I value it at the higher value and is classic insurance cheaper than street insurance? Insurance has cost me $300. a year in the past. Thanks Dave

Check the crash bar mounting points on the frame. Mine were bent in towards the frame and when I went to put on a new crash bar it wouldn't line up. I took crash bar off and used a slide hammer with a hook and pulled the mounts back out and it lined up. If you don't have a slide hammer you can buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight. You could loosen the bolts up of the crash bar and put the saddle bag on then tighten the crash bar up. the crash bars on the 86-93 are pretty tough. Dave

Your pictures remind of my 89 VR when I bought it as a wreck. It had been laid down on the left side and slid under the back of a car. The whole front fairing system was trashed. I was going to part it out until I took it apart. Take it apart slowly, taking pictures as you go along. Use strips of blue painters tape and mark all the electrical connections as you disconnect them. I just numbered them. Use plastic bags for each component hardware and mark each bag with the component name with a Sharpie marker. Take alot of pictures as you won't remember where everything goes. One of the hardest things it all the plugs on the radio amp in the drivers side fairing and the CB radio in the right fairing, mark them well. Take off the seat, tank cover, side covers and battery. Remove the headlight. Get a box or tote and put the all of the good parts in them. Take all of the dash units ( class controller, CB, radio, speakers, amp) out. Remove the fairing panels. Don't throw anything away, put all you damaged pieces in a pile in the corner. Remove the coolant overflow bottle from the right side. Remove the black plastic panels that bolt onto the frame and fairing frame unit on both sides. If the fairing frame is bent remove the instrument cluster, I believe its just two plugs, speedo cable and 4 nuts. Check the wiring harness in the front of the bike to be sure that none of the wiring was stretched and pulled the wires apart. The wiring harness comes around the bike on the left side and across the front of the bike and is secured with two or three black pull straps. The bar that holds the relays is screwed on each side of the fairing frame and can be left hanging or removed. The cruise control box which is black with a silver Yamaha with numbers and connected to a big green plug is on the mounted on the black plastic panel mounted on the front of the bike behind the fairing frame with two screws. Be gentle with it if you have to remove it as the plastic is thin and brittle, don't ask me how I know. Just tag and disconnect all the electrical connections, remove the plastic straps holding the harness to the fairing frame and remove the bolts holding the fairing frame. I forgot, remove the radiator chrome side panels and radiator grille. You have to remove the radiator cap first to remove the radiator grille. The bike will look naked but not as bad as when the busted up plastic was on it. While you have it this far apart, it is real easy to replace the spark plug wires and any 20 year old hoses. While mine was apart I did put the battery back in and rode it around the yard to check that it drove okay and it will do you heart good to hear it run. I wouldn't worry about the trunk, saddlebags and crash bars until you get the front done. Check the front fork brace and make sure it isn't cracked, take it off to do this and I have one if you want it. Take your time, don't get overwhelmed as it is very doable. I took me 7 months to get the parts and put it back together. It was a labor of love. I'm very OCD when it comes to my bike and have had everything off mine except the engine, gas tank and triple trees at one time or another in the last 5 years and I'm just a shade tree mechanic. Good luck and it I can be of any assistance shot me a email with your phone number and we can talk. Dave

They make a nice mellow throaty thumping sound at idle. Jump on the throttle and wind it out and just sounds great. Not too loud. They were on my bike when I bought it and I really like them. They look great too, stick out a little past the chrome bumper on the rear. Dave 89 VR

I took a piece of an old bicycle inner tube. stuck it on the center stand where it makes contact with the muffler. I held it in place with some grip glue and used black wire ties to hold it on. It's been there for two years without a problem so far. Dave

This worked for me when mine did the same thing. Turn the fuel valve to the off position. It may be tight and hard to turn, I put a rag over the knob and used a pair of pliers to turn it. I sprayed it with silicone spray first, it seemed to help. Start the bike and let it run until it runs out of gas and stalls. Rap the aluminum covers of the carbs with the plastic handle of a large screwdriver a couple of times. Put a half of can of Seafoam in the gas tank. Turn the fuel valve back on (I leave mine in the reserve position) and start the bike and it should be cleared up. It sounds like there is a piece of dirt stuck in the float valve. Dave