Flyinfool

That sure does sound like he is talking about one of out beloved members. There is only one person/couple on the planet that could meet that description. @cowpuc

What I believe and what I want are two different things. I believe it will be a V twin. I want, wish and hope it will be the V4 from the V-Max. And I would not rule out it being ANOTHER hoax.

I am curious as to how people wear out a gas can? I am still using the same 5 gal one that I bought 40 years ago. I use it for everything that I have that uses gas. It still works just like new. The only thing I can think of is from sliding it across the concrete and grinding through the bottom. But then if I need to move mine I never slid it across the floor, I pick it up and move it.

Looks like a bigger pic of the front end. From that pic it looks like it really will have a 4 headlight system. I wonder if that will be 4 headlights or 2 headlights and 2 driving lights? Hopefully LED or HID.

My entire life I have lived very close to a plant that makes bacon, I can smell bacon all the time, morning day and night, I still have not tired of the smell of bacon cooking. You should really come visit me sometime.......................

Yes all of the switches on the handlebars can be disassembled to clean the contacts, It is not difficult to do. As mentioned there are some small springs and parts that are good at hiding if you let them escape.

I had a similar issue with ATT. All of my personal emails to any of the dozen or so variants of ATT were being blocked as spam. What it amounted to was someone had inadvertently clicked the spam button to delete one of my emails instead of the delete button and that put me on their spam list. It could be the same thing here where someone did not know how to change their preferences to stop getting notifications from VR so they just clicked the spam button and presto VR was now spam on that system. It was a pain to get that cleared up.

At home I use http://www.nomorobo.com on my land line, yea I still got one of those. It is now available for apple phones and coming soon for android phones. It works so good at home I have to pick up the phone once in a while to see if it still works. If a call does sneak thru, I report it and it is added to their data base so that that scammer can get thru to anyone else. likewise if someone else gets a call before me and reports it then I will never see that call. It is very rare that I have to report calls. As soon as NoMoRobo is available for android, I will switch from Hiya to NoMoRobo for my cell phone also.

Well he said the sound is coming from the left side of the engine, the clutch and throw out bearing are on the right side.

I also use HIYA. With HIYA when you block the number that goes into their data base so they can block it for the next person that is called by them, so as long as a few users do a spam report then it can be blocked by the time it gets to you. It seems that the scamers only change the number once a day. As for the do not call list, I took all of my numbers off the DNC list, it means I cet more calls from legit companies but fewer scammers. the legit companies will take you off their list if you ask them to, if you answer a scammer and ask to be taken off the list it only verifies that this is a GOOD number and will add you to even more lists. I think the scammers are using the DNC lists, but they are using it as a list of active numbers TO call, they are usually calling from outside of the USA so there is absolutely nothing the feds or anyone else can do about it. What would slow scammers down greatly is if the phone companies remove the ability to alter the caller id info displayed. This would mean that the scammers real phone number would be displayed so they could be tracked down and or blocked. They can not change their actual phone number every few hours. Phone companies don't work that fast.

It is hard to guess from the description of a sound. If the knocking is coming from the left side while running, the only thing I can think of off hand in that area is the stator. It has been known for someone to replace a stator and not put Loctite on the screws and have the stator come loose. It can then rattle around a bit. But I do not see how the clutch could have an effect on that. Does this knocking happen in neutral, but goes away when you pull in the clutch? Does this knock happen in gear with the clutch pulled? How about while idling along in 1st gear?

Yes Rick you are a lucky man. Prayers out for a speedy and complete healing. Maybe the man upstairs was trying to tell you that you need a 3rd gen............................... June 5 is coming quick.

Glad to hear. This is why we tell people to clean the terminals even if they look clean, it don't take much.

Your description is good except you have blue and green reversed. Blue (Right hand most light) is power on and green (center light) is set. Amber, resume, is right hand most light.

Hope none of that spill got on the bike. Brake fluid will devour paint and ABS plastic. If any might possibly have got on the bike you need to wash it off yesterday.

If you do not have cruise or care about it then you only need a 2 wire switch. The other 2 wires are just to kill the cruise when you hit the brake.

I will be in chat tonight. Hope to some folks in there.

IF desperation does kick in................... I just bought an aftermarket front master upgrade, it has only a 2 wire switch. So I will be connecting that switch to operate the brake light, and using the brake light to drive a relay to operate the cruise kill.

Depending on how good of terms you are on with the landlord, maybe have him deal with it since he rented out a place with no crawl space access but enough access for critters to get in. Around here anyhow, I never seen a house with a crawlspace that did not have access. At some point in time someone will need to go under there for some kind of maintenance on the house. Be careful if you do get in there, you do not want to meet the skunk (or some other nasty critter) under there with no room to run.

Someone was out playing again....................

Another perfectly good thread hijacked.......... Now back to our regularly scheduled programing.. I have updated my RSVP on the calendar.

And I thought the "V" was because it will be a V engine.

My HID is wired hot to the battery with just a fuse. My relay to keep the headlight off for starting is in the bikes headlight circuit since that is what turns the HID on. The reason for the hot wire is due to a very high amp spike to initially fire the HID. This spike only lasts for a small fraction of a second. Once the bulb fires, the power drops back to whatever wattage the system is rated at. The switches and wiring in most bikes would not handle that spike for long before damage occurred. That hot wire is switched internally in the ballast so it SHOULD only be drawing power when the HID is lit. We can guess at stuff all day long for weeks, You need to get out the test light or ammeter and look at what is going on. It is even a possibility that you have a defective or poorly designed HID ballast. There are a lot of members that have HID, I have not heard of anyone reporting that the HID was killing the battery overnight or even at all.

Did you let the master run dry while flushing it out and get air in the system? If so you will need to bleed out the air.

Perfect opportunity to pick out the driest spot for the camper. Look at the other bright side, you were not sleeping in a tent.................. Someday soon we will be back to drought and everyone will be wishing for some rain. But this is sure the wettest spring we have had in a while. My yard is so soft I can not get the bike out.