Flyinfool

I have to agree, The time and money would be well spent to delink and then the bleeding problem and proportioning valve are gone for good. Every time I go out on the bike I have to traverse pea gravel covered pavement, there were many times I lost the front wheel while using just the rear brake because with the linked brakes it locked the front wheel on the gravel. I have never had an issue with the gravel since I delinked.

The picture of that screw head is a Phillips recess, All of the cross recess screws on your bike should be JIS, Additional confermation that someone jammed a SAE screw into the metric hole. If it is indeed a clip-nut, I would try to get a new nut before trying to rethread it. jamming in a 1/4-20 and then retaping back to 6mm will leave very comprised threads.

So they are implying it will have; EFI built in AM, FM, XM and navigation with blue tooth heated seats and grips Reverse

It is common to have a plugged vent for the gas tank. Next time it quits, as soon as you are safely stopped, pop the gas cap and listen close for a hiss of air rushing into the tank, and it then it can immediately restart and run for a while until the tank has a vacuum in it again. If you have this then you just need to get that vent hose unplugged. A cheap and common fix. Insects are known to crawl up into that hose and die or build a nest.

The only thing with the 4 into 1 rubber manifold for the carb vents is if one carb is flooding, that manifold will alow it to flood all four carbs. Someone just had that issue this year. With the 4 carbs having individual vent lines all the way to the bottom there is no chance for cross talk between the carbs. Make sure that the tip over valve is still on the gas tank vent and that the vent line also runs to the back. I think the tank also vented thru the canister.

Specifically which bulbs did you get? SB has many to chose from. I helped one person chase a turn signal issue and it turned out that it was the specific LED bulbs were not compatible with a 1st gen. Now this was on a MK2 and the 83 is different so I am not sure if the same issues will apply. But the problem was that the bright and dim parts of the LED were internally connected so the running light circuit was energizing the flasher side of the bulb causing a steady on condition. I did find a fix but I will need to find that old thread with my notes. I can also do some tests to see if you can check your bulbs for the same issue. I have both good and bad bulbs laying around here somewhere.

Hog hunting here in town would be a target rich environment.......................... Especially the obnoxiously loud ones at 3AM

:rotf: :rotf::rotf: It is a fairly new thing that the feral hogs have become a problem. http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,4570,7-153-10370_12145_55230-230093--,00.html

If it is the starter clutch that went bad, it usually sounds like someone is inside of the engine with a hammer trying to get out. It does this while cranking. You can replace all of the starter clutch parts with OEM, but you will be back in there replacing them again, and again. OR you can contact member @Dano, he replaces the stock 3 roller clutch with an 18 roller clutch and it will never fail again. Costs a bit more up front, but pays for itself by the second start clutch replacement. I have the 2nd one that Dano ever did many years ago.

My keyboard may never be the same again....................... Puc did you know that in your very own home state there are feral hogs for the taking. It is even against the law to NOT take one if you are packing a gun. I am always hoping a herd of them will come past my deer stand while I am there.

Rolling with traffic at posted speed limit + 5, 50 MPH

While I have not don much to the bike this year, I did determine that I will be rebuilding the forks real soon, the right one is suddenly leaking pretty bad. Now to start shopping for al of the parts...............

Yes I am jealous, had the nozzles parked west for the summer, Denver just got a foot of snow from this storm, may have to swing them back north just for teasing us with those scrumptious looking vittles......... @cowpuc you may just have to make more than one trip around the big pond. 2 hours north? If there is yummy food involved I can knock that down to 1.5 hours easy, I have already made Green Bay for a $100 hamburger in just 30 minutes. But it took 2+ hours to get home............... I was heavier for the return trip.

Whether merging left or right the rules say you must be sure nothing is there, the ONLY way an examiner can know if you checked is if you turn your head to look. When taking a test you will be tested to the letter of the law, logic, common sense, and accepted customs, and long held habits will get written up every time. They need to know that you know how it is supposed to be done, even if there are other ways to get it done. If you for some reason need to do something other than the letter of the law, then explain what you are doing and why so that the examiner knows you have done what is necessary. As for merging from the left lane into the left turn lane, it was just 2 weeks ago that a woman in an SUV pulled up onto the median AND had to drive up and over the curbs of the median to get to the left turn lane ahead of me, It was only my reflex look over the shoulder that caught her. Yes I have a full size truck with huge mirrors that are adjusted for maximum visibility. That is no different that coming up to a one way street, I still look both ways, it is amazing how many people go the wrong way on a one way street. People do all kinds of stupid things, you have to be looking for the unexpected. I would much rather stop and wait for the idiot than to deal with the aftermath of the crash, even if I know I am in the right. As for passing on the right, back 40 some years ago I was taught that you can pass on the right for a left turning car ONLY if you can keep all 4 tires on pavement. Gravel shoulder you can not pass. Even though everyone else does. I have seen one idiot pass a school bus with flashing red lights by running down the gravel shoulder. All I could do was cringe and hope all the kids were on the bus before he got there. I was taught way back when that all of your car must be behind the big white line at an intersection, If you look you will see that the center line of the road starts and ends at that white stop line. Sometimes that line is set back or angled because left turning traffic needs that space to safely make the turn, if the front of your car is hanging out there, there is less room to make a safe turn. If that rule was changed, it happened more than 40 years ago.

There are 3 threaded holes that you have found, use high strength bolts to attach the puller to those holes. When you put the bolts in the holes, do not tighten them just bottom them out in the holes finger tight. Crank down on the puller till you think something is gonna break, then go to bed, it will usually be off by morning. Tie a safety rope to the flywheel to hold it on or it may literally fly across the shop and break itself or anything in its way. It is a heavy chunk of metal. I do not using heat because heat is real bad for magnets, there are magnets in the flywheel for the stator and the ignition. Sometimes a good rap on the jack screw of the puller will persuade the flywheel to pop. I would not pound on the flywheel itself since shock is also bad for magnets.

FWIW I was already in the 40mpg club. Skydoc and I tried the shims and I lost torque. It was fine unloaded and had a lot more pep, but as soon as I connected the trailer, it could not get going, we had to pull the shims back out and it was back to a rocket with the trailer. As said YMMV.

And make sure there is no oil in the holes before you use the red Loctite. Even red Loctite don't stick to oil.

If you took out the 6 Allen bolts you may have messed up @Dano clutch. Dano uses an alignment fixture when tightening those Allen screws. My guess is that your best bet is to reinstall the Allen's with some fresh loctite and let that set for 24 hours before disturbing. Once you put it back together, except for the big center bolt, then get your strongest puller out and pop the whole works off the crank as a unit. to put it on the new bike, just pull the old flywheel and put on the new one and hit it with the torque wrench. Hopefully Dano will pop in here and give his .

@cowpuc I am hoping to have this done by mid to late summer. I may even decide to do the first flights with the plane (Not me...) nearly nekid with it wearing just a coat of primer. That way I can play sooner and then I can take my time over the winter to try to do a nice paint job instead of rushing it now to get it done. I still am planning to do all of the color work myself and then take it to an auto body shop to have someone with good equipment and knows what they are doing shoot the clear on. My clear coating is functional but never comes out looking good. I got the 2 vertical fins built today, they are in their jigs with the epoxy setting up as I type. Tomorrow I will find out if I did it correctly. I also got all of the hinges installed for one of the 2 control surfaces and the linkage to the servo built and setup. One more control surface yet to build.

Having a stick shift does not stop one from left foot braking. Many of the NASCARs have an idiot light to let the driver know that his left foot is resting on the brake. Those are highly skilled professional drivers. I also use left foot braking when driving a stick. There are times it appropriate to be using the brake and gas at the same time. This does not mean that I think it is appropriate for everyone to use left foot brake. Most do not even know why you might need to or have the skills to utilize it.] And then there are times where you need to use the gas, brake and clutch all at the same time, then you have to learn heel / toe, for brake and gas at the same time with the right foot. What is right for how one drives is not right for everyone. BUT following the rules of the road should be paramount for everyone regardless of how you accomplish it. I wonder just how many people have been doing certain things wrong for so long that they may actually believe it is the correct way or even the law. My pet peeve on the road is people that must cross a lane to make a turn. like turning left onto a 2 lane road and heading right for the right lane and not the left lane like they should. Same thin making a right turn to the left lane of a 2 lane. Worst is when they do that and then make another lane change to the lane they should have turned into in the first place because they are going to turn again.

Bob I know that a lot of things are different and unique on the 83. But doesn't the CMU still have the reed switches inside of coils to trigger the CMU warnings? Those reed switches still need to be jumpered to make the warnings go away. As far as the usefulness of the RLU, I have had a headlight burn out at 75MPH going around a curve at midnight, I sure wish that bike had a RLU, I never was able to get the pucker out of that bike seat afterwards........ That said, the RLU is bypassed on my bike so that the HID will work. I also repurposed the white headlight bulb on the dash for something else. I have the option of not turning on my headlight and so I have a bright red LED in that socket that is lit whenever the headlight is not lit. It will remind me to turn it on in the daytime if I should forget, and will also let me know if the headlight failed in the daytime. Even though I have HID on the bike now, I still carry the old stock bulb for emergencies. With the HID systems they do not like to get turned on and off all the time so many have added some switch feature so that the headlight does not come on right away with the key, then turn off with the starter and have to fire back up again, I am not sure if this is an issue with some, any, or all of the LED systems available. The LED itself don't care, not sure of the ballast.

The bike wants to see around 50W of headlight power. if the headlight you are looking at is only 6W, you need to pull a lot more power. I do not know what the threshold of the sensors on the bike are. It MAY take less than 50W to make them happy.

Yes you will need to something with the DRL or it will be constantly switching between HI and LO beam till it does let the smoke out of something. Then you will want to jumper the CMU in the dash so that the headlight warning is not constantly lit up.

YOU ARE BUSTED..........:mugshot: And you say you went for a ride around the lake, that means you went right past my house and did not stop in for proper harassment????? Well Happy BD anyhow you old timer you. At least you did not try to go in your Birthday suit, they would have had to wash everyone's eyes with battery acid and then would have had to burn the place down afterwards......................

The bushings that the levers pivot on are known to wear out. You do grease them regularly don't you? I clean all of my handlebar switches as part of my spring maintenance.