Flyinfool

The air filters themselves may be fine, but mice love to nest in the air filter housing and exhaust pipes. It sure sounds like gummed up carbs, gas does that when left sitting. A heavy dose of Seafoam often helps a lot. Followed by rid it like ya stole it.

Of course there is always the possibility of a flat tire causing a tip to the right. I had that one winter when the rear tire went flat, opened the shed in the spring and the bike was leaning over against the wall. I still like the 70KV option. It is fun to watch someone touch it, But if they have a pace maker they may be toast................. Maybe get a Van De Graaff generator and and a Leyden Jar and have 500KV or more stored and ready to go.

HEY, I resemble that comment.................... I think a week is appropriate with only a 3 day notice I nearly had a heart attack when the first I new I had expired was that I could not post. Most of us are not gone for more than a week at a time.

I'll be curious to find out if it has provisions to bolt on a trailer hitch. Someone going to one of these showings try to get a pic of the back end underneath to see what kind of frame is there. I am sure that the official response will be that it is not designed or able to pull a trailer, just like all bikes.

So you got no nuts on the front huh.......... Do you have a pic of the front and back of the switch panel So we can see what we are talking about?

I have had my 1st gen take a nap to the right. Wind is capable of doing that. Was ugly in the way for the clear path to the door? An electric fencer hooked up to the window might be fun. or an HEI ignition coil with around 50K volts.

Here is one thread talking about the ebay setup that you are looking at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?82939-single-carb&highlight=manifold Here is the thread for the newer one that the inventor says works great. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?124413-A-new-twist-on-the-single-carb-swap&highlight=manifold

From what I read it sounds like they are looking for the biker to hit him with hit and run. To an extent I can understand him leaving, someone just tried to kill me I would not stick around either. I would really love to hear what the people in the SUV in front of the video taker have to say about what happened since they were in the best position to see it happening.

I know that a 1st gen motor will not easily swap into a 2nd gen because the exhaust ports are located differently and will run right into the frame. I am guessing you will also have to do custom exhaust and possibly frame mods to get a 2nd gen motor into a 1st gen frame. You will need to do a lot of measuring and research before diving into this.

I think that is just to big and heavy for a bike to handle. Anytime you get more than 40 lbs on the tongue the bike will get squirmy in the turns. Even with my 250lb carcass in the seat The empty weight of the trailer is more than the bike. A good wind gust from the side and the bike will not have enough weight to control the trailer. If you ever need to back it up, you will trying to duck walk and hold up 2,000 lbs. The bike will be able to get it moving but stopping could get ugly. When the trailer brakes are applied there will be a large weight shift forward, your 80 lb tongue weight may become a couple hundred, if you are in a curve then it is a couple hundred pounds of force trying to push the back end of the bike out. It would be a cool thing to have if it would work, but I see it as very dangerous to try.

Do you have a link to "The rest of the story"?

There is a thread or 2 about this mod. it does function, the bike will run, but not well. As mentioned the flow path is terrible, the carb is actually to big for our engines so at idle and low speed it is really bad. Then the bad airflow chokes the high speed. The mid range for cruising is OK. There was a more recent case of someone that made up a manifold and used a better 2 barrel carb set up as a primary secondary and seems to have gotten good results. But it is not yet (that I know of) available to buy.

There is a good chance that it is the switches themselves that are leaking. The water can go in thru the pivot of the toggle and get the inside of the switch wet causing your issues. The wet terminals are actually the water leaking out of the back side of the switch. I would make sure the gasket on the cover is doing its job and then either get waterproof switches, (they have a very soft rubbery compound in the pivot of the switch to seal it) or get switch boots that replace the outer nut and have a boot that seals the pivot and lever from water or dust. Also make sure that water is not getting in thru the opening for the wires.

The 4 ways do have their own fuse, that is what allows the 4 ways to be on with the ignition off. The turn signals do turn off with the key.

I have never yet worn out a MC tire, they always die of old age. I have to watch date codes real close when I buy tires so that I get max life out of them. When I was a kid I cant count how many tires I changed on my bicycles. I have never tried to spoon on a tire since I discovered engines in vehicles. I'll pay the $25 for a mount balance and new valve stem. It only happens once every 5 years or so. I will never get tot be like old Puc wearing out a tire almost every month that I let the snow levels drop enough for him to get the bike out of the garage......

Just reading this I had to go get a cold Gatorade and still nearly had a heat stroke.................. Good luck with your trip. I am sure you know to keep hydrated in that heat, but do it any how.

These are the fuses that gave me fits, The melted fuse on the right is the one that works just fine, the brand new fuse on the left is the one that tests good but does not work in the truck.

I switched to a laser printer the last time I had to replace my printer, It did not cost a lot more than the inkjet, but the toner does not go bad or dry out with age and need to be tossed out. In a ink jet every time you turn it on to print it does a head cleaning procedure, the procedure involves squirting ink into a cup or pad in the bottom of the printer where it will just dry up. That is why an inkjet that is seldom used goes through ink so fast. It is always squirting ink to keep its nozzles clean. Toner for a laser jet is just a dry plastic powder, It will basically last forever. So I get literally thousands of prints before it needs new toner. And since toner is powdered plastic that is melted onto the paper, it is also water proof so it will not smudge if you touch it with a wet finger or try to use a highlighter on it. The extra cost of the laser printer up front has been easily paid for in the ink cost savings. not to mention that for years at a time the only thing I do to the printer is add paper.

Cruising is at whatever your most common speed and RPM is. When you said something loosened up.......... Another thing to check, are you running on all 4 cylinders? These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cyl but the MPG sucks. There have been people that ran for years on 3 not noticing one was not working. The quick test, when the bike is cold, start it up and monitor the header temps to see if they all heat up at the same rate, careful it don't take long to get hot enough to burn your finger.

These are modern ATM fuses. I always buy Little Fuse or Bussman brand, more expensive but made in USA, and they blow when they should. ANY style of cheap Chinese fuses have been known to not blow when they should. I have seen Chinese fuses melt into a blob and melt the fuse holder, but still not blow.

I was working on the truck installing a new set of LED DRLs. Then it all hit the fan. While I was messing around under the hood in the fuse panel I noticed that there was a 10A fuse that was broken, a big chunk missing out of it, It was fuse 48 for the HVAC, It still tested good and everything still worked, but I can not survive nowing I have a broken fuse. So I pulled that fuse and put in the spare fuse that was in the cover for the inside fuse panel. Tested both sides of the new fuse with the test light and it showed as good. The next day I noticed that the compass in the DIC was showing as "--" instead of a compas direction. Hmmmmmm........ So back to my service manual and there is a test procedure for when the compass reads --. So I start running thru the procedure. Step one check the fuse, what do ya know, it is fuse 48 for the HVAC that powers the compass module, the brand new fuse again checked out good as I would expect it to. Step 2 drop the headliner.............. DANG. The compass module is glued to the headliner just behind the drivers head. I was able to loosen things up on the whole drivers side of the headliner to pull it down enough to get my arms in there to get at the module. and test the pins at the connector, my test showed there was no +12V on the pink wire at the module, so I started to follow that pink wire back, it went to a connector under the dash, (I am an old grey fat man, I do not do under dash well anymore) there was no +12V to the pink wire under there either. the next stop for the pink wire is fuse 48 under the hood. So I pulled the fuse and checked continuity of the pink wire from the fuse terminal to the module connector and had good continuity. Hmmmm........................ so just for giggles I stuck the test light probe into the pink wire side of the fuse socket and connected the probes ground clip to +12v. Turned on the ignition and the compass was working again. More head scratching. OK time for more giggles, I put in the old fuse, that has a big chunk missing out of it, back in. Compass is working. I put in the brand new fuse and compass no worky. OK so I have a brand new 10A fuse that tests as good with an ohm meter, looks like good element not broken, will test as good by probing the 2 probe points on the top of the fuse, but will not pass power. I bought some new fuses and installed one at fuse 48 and put another new one in the spare fuse holder for someday, and all is good, then I got to put the headliner back up. I wasted a whole day over a brand new bad fuse that tests good. But then I was home with all my tools and test gear available, It could have got ugly if I were on the road and that broken fuse finally failed and I would have put in the new spare fuse and nothing sill would have worked. I really hate brand new parts that are bad, cuz you tend to go right past them looking for some other problem. How many times on this site have you seen me tell people it is possible to have new bad parts. But yet I still get burned by it. ANd I know better............................ :bang head: :bang head: :bang head:

Either the K&N filters or the muffler changes or the V-Max rear each by themselves can reduce MPG. What mileage were you getting before you made all these changes? Even with these changes you still should be close to 40 MPG at 60MPH with no wind, at least in the high 30s. High speed will kill MPG. I was down to 18 MPG driving at 80 into a 40 MPH head wind, pulling a trailer. As soon as I slowed to 65 and the wind died I was back to 40. A good head wind or cross wind will drop MPG. If MPG was calculated over just one fill and the first fill was not quite full but the send was a good fill it will look like low MPG. There are a lot of variable that affect MPG. We can help you sort thru them, best done one at a time because one change may help and another change might hurt and the result is no change. so you end up discarding a good change. First is to see where you are at now. After a good run at cruising speed, in a safe area, pull in the clutch, click off the kill switch and then stop off the road under no power. Pull the plugs and see if you are running rich or lean so you know what to adjust. Anything else is just trial and error guessing. Plugs should be a nice light tan color, darker is running rich and lighter is running lean. This will tell you if you need to jet up or down or add shims or remove shims. Also just your riding style can have a big impact on MPG. Was this steady state cruising on the highway or city low speed stop and go? Was your right wrist having a good time?

Ya know........................... Looking at this pic some more. The diaphragm covers are raised quite a bit above the surface that the screw heads bear on. I would have to look at a 2nd gen a lot closer but I think this might just fit inside of the tank. It will be real close.

The person that invented the system no longer will make the parts, He is also the same person selling the plans. I spoke to him and he has no problem with me making the parts to sell as long as I do not divulge the plans, since he still sells those. He even encouraged me to make extra sets and he likes my redesign to the point he wants to buy a set of parts from me once I have them. So there is no legal issues at this point in time.

Vid I never even thought of the 2nd gens, there is a lot of stuff to find places for, no one near me has a 2nd gen for me to look at. The farther that I get into this I am not so sure that it is suitable for the masses, at least not by me. There is a lot of electrical work to do and I know that scares a lot of people, there is welding to do, and a lot of mechanical assembly of all the bits and pieces. There is also a huge amount of time needed for me to make all of the custom parts since I do not have access to CNC. My basement is all manual machines. I started working on a BOM and parts list, from a distance it is looking like it will sneak up on the 2K mark, my cost, not including any tools I have to buy. I am not going the cheapest route for everything, cheap is sometimes more expensive in the long run. Once I buy the O2 sensor and the weld on bung I can start to play with ideas of where to put it. I was hoping to fit it on top of the collector. so it can read an average of all 4 cylinders, It has been recommended to me to just put it on any one down pipes close to the valve. I think that it would be fairly easy to hide on one of the front pipes way up high. And a LOT easier than dropping the collector. Did I ever mention that I hate carbs, even more than most of you hate snow.