Flyinfool

I finally saw the commercial for this new Mobil oil. In the fine print at the bottom of the screen it does say "* or 20,000 miles whichever comes first".

He does small load emergency deliveries to anywhere in the Con USA. Since the van looks like and is licensed like a personal vehicle he does not follow any of the regs that commercial truckers have to like weigh stations where they can check your log book for hours on the road. He will drive straight thru for 30+ hours if necessary from Milwaukee to anywhere to get that emergency load of up to two pallets, or most anything else that could be loaded into a full size Chevy van, to where they need to be as fast as physically possible. He has a mattress up against a wall and then sleeps as soon as he has made the delivery. He only lasted 3 years before the physical demands made him quit.

You have to go back to the original website to fill in more states, then that site will make you a new jpg to attach to you sig and get rid of the old one.

I know that on the stator side you must have the gasket for proper clearance on the starter gears. But I do now that the clutch side has anything that close. try putting the cover on with no gasket and spin the engen over to see if anything hits. IF nothing hits then you can use an RTV gasket for a temp fix.

Yup, remove and jumper the RLU, You may have to jumper the 2 headlight circuits in the CMU if the LED does not pull enough amps to turn off the warning light. If the LED bulb does not have a battery direct feed wire you may not have to remove the RLU. I am guessing that it is real close to pulling enough power to let the RLU still do its thing, since you said the RLU is OK on HI beam.

According to that website Yamaha trademarked the name SRVENTURE on 9-30-2016 but it looks like that may be a snowmobile.

So how well does that little motor do? Does it now need to be licensed as a moped? or home built moped?

It all depends on a lot of things. In the bike I get an easy year out of an oil change, but then I only do about 5K per year and I am using a 7K full synth oil. the bike is stored for 6 months out of the year so it is really only 6 months on the oil. I am willing to bet that the 1 change per year is assuming you drive normal miles of 12,000 per year in favorable conditions. I bet it even says so on the jug. I know one guy that puts 250-300K miles per year on a chevy van, buys a new van every year, but does weekly oil changes.

I hate cutting grass with a passion. I sure wish we could get another BIG snow storm to put it all back into dormancy.Even though my yard is small enough that I can put a pot of water on the stove to make mac n cheese and be done before the water can boil. Maybe it has to do with having to cut the grass since I was tall enough to see over the grip. I used to have to cut 1 acre with an old push reel mower. Dad never got a "power" mower till after I moved out. At our flying field we have 5 acres of runway that has to be mowed twice a week to keep the grass short, We just bought a new Gravely 60" that thing has no problem cutting at 25 MPH. It will fly thru that 5 acres in just over an hour. But that still aint my job. I am still tempted to have my whole yard done in green cement, then all my yard problems will be gone for the rest of my life.

I will have to look in my bucket to see what I have. I do have a bunch but mostly thicker ones. On the other hand I do have technology to take one of your 282s and turn it into a 278. My bike ended up with all custom sizes just because I could. Another thing to watch for while doing your calculations for sizes of shims needed. make sure that the center of the shim that is in the bike is not worn to a dish shape as that will skew your math. That is one reason that some people do all the measuring and math, then put in new shims and it does not come out right. So when you pull out a shim mic it in the center and at the edge to see if it was worn to something less than what is marked on it. I have seen shims with as much as .005 inch of wear. That is .127mm or just over two shim sizes thinner in the middle.

Best support you can give her is to not get in her way, and do not even think of trying to use her preferred locations in the house.

The last time I tried renting a car or a hotel room they would not take a debit cart, insisted on a CC. As mentioned there are minimal protections on a debit card if your should be compromised. CC is a LOT safer to use in todays world full of hackers and scammers.

Put a volt meter across the battery terminals, it should read around 12.6V. Turn on the key and hit the starter, if the battery stays at 12V and the bike is dark, then the problem is in the bikes wiring, if the voltage drops by more than 2 or 3 volts, then the battery is the problem.

Wonderful trip! Was glad to be able to follow along with you. Thank you.

For the rear, just take the front line off the master and plug the hole with a bolt and crush washer. Done. For the front you will need to come up with new brake lines. You can either run a single line down to a splitter and then the two lines to the front calipers. OR. Leave the right line like it is and just add a second line from the master to the left caliper, using a double banjo bolt at the front master. Since you have a MK1 you will probably want to upgrade the front master to a bigger one, Stock is 1/2 inch (12.7mm) the MK2 has a 14mm master (9/16 inch). I just picked up a 16mm master but I have not tried it yet. Most people are happy with the 14mm master. @skydoc_17 sells a delink kit with all the braided stainless lines and instructions.

:sign yeah that: The only time 85 or 86 matters is if you have a relay with a diode built in. If you have that it will be shown in the connection diagram that is printed or molded into the relay case.

OK silly idea here, are the bulbs reversed for the set and resume lights, I am trying to remember but I thought there was enough slack in the wires to put the bulbs in the wrong location. So you push the set button and the resume light comes on? If you then hit the brake by chance does the set light come on? If you hit set and the resume light comes on, did you then try hitting resume? Give the cruise some time to wake up. Mine takes 5-10 seconds to do anything, If I release the throttle right away after hitting set or resume the bike will slow down enough for it to kick out on under speed. I have to hold the speed just a couple MPH less than what I set it for until I feel the cruise take up the slack.

That pic looks like it is closer to a 2nd gen seating position but closer to 1st gen styling? The trunk looks huge. How long before there is a 20 year old one that I can afford?

I have to agree, The time and money would be well spent to delink and then the bleeding problem and proportioning valve are gone for good. Every time I go out on the bike I have to traverse pea gravel covered pavement, there were many times I lost the front wheel while using just the rear brake because with the linked brakes it locked the front wheel on the gravel. I have never had an issue with the gravel since I delinked.

The picture of that screw head is a Phillips recess, All of the cross recess screws on your bike should be JIS, Additional confermation that someone jammed a SAE screw into the metric hole. If it is indeed a clip-nut, I would try to get a new nut before trying to rethread it. jamming in a 1/4-20 and then retaping back to 6mm will leave very comprised threads.

So they are implying it will have; EFI built in AM, FM, XM and navigation with blue tooth heated seats and grips Reverse

It is common to have a plugged vent for the gas tank. Next time it quits, as soon as you are safely stopped, pop the gas cap and listen close for a hiss of air rushing into the tank, and it then it can immediately restart and run for a while until the tank has a vacuum in it again. If you have this then you just need to get that vent hose unplugged. A cheap and common fix. Insects are known to crawl up into that hose and die or build a nest.

The only thing with the 4 into 1 rubber manifold for the carb vents is if one carb is flooding, that manifold will alow it to flood all four carbs. Someone just had that issue this year. With the 4 carbs having individual vent lines all the way to the bottom there is no chance for cross talk between the carbs. Make sure that the tip over valve is still on the gas tank vent and that the vent line also runs to the back. I think the tank also vented thru the canister.

Specifically which bulbs did you get? SB has many to chose from. I helped one person chase a turn signal issue and it turned out that it was the specific LED bulbs were not compatible with a 1st gen. Now this was on a MK2 and the 83 is different so I am not sure if the same issues will apply. But the problem was that the bright and dim parts of the LED were internally connected so the running light circuit was energizing the flasher side of the bulb causing a steady on condition. I did find a fix but I will need to find that old thread with my notes. I can also do some tests to see if you can check your bulbs for the same issue. I have both good and bad bulbs laying around here somewhere.

Hog hunting here in town would be a target rich environment.......................... Especially the obnoxiously loud ones at 3AM