Flyinfool

I have had IPass for10+ years, it has never messed up my billing. There have been times where they never charged me for a toll, especially on the bike. It is fairly often that the system does not register right away but will register a month later. I do have all correct vehicle descriptions and license plate numbers so that when they look at the picture and read the plate they know which account to charge. I figure that on the bike it is either the weird colors of my collector plate or that the trunk hangs so far back over the plate that if the IPass does not pick up they have no clue who it was.

So is it 24mm or 16mm? 24mm is about 15/16, 16mm is about 5/8 13/16 is 20.6mm? Now I am really cornfused..................

Now I am sure you have heard @cowpuc talking about the 60° snow that he has me working on..........................

Yup looks like one leg shorted to ground. Yes you do need the paper gasket when you put it back together, you can NOT use RTV gasket.

Something else some forget to factor in. I do not know how the taxes work in your state, but in Wisconsin you do not pay any sales tax on the trade in portion of a deal. So if you are paying 27K for the new bike and you get a 4K trade in then you only pay sales tax on 23K. If you sell the bike yourself for 5K and then go buy the new bike for 27K you will pay the sales tax on all 27K. Something to look into and do the math to see just how much more you need to sell your bike for to break even with the cost of trading in, in your state.

To bad I did not know this yesterday while I was flying thru Fondy (Was in Appleton for a graduation) with my truck and had meters and stuff............. The stator has a 3 phase output, it is common to loose one phase and have partial charging. the remaining 2 phases will try to carry the load but one of them will die soon and then you have nothing. There is a step by step for diagnosing the charging system that I wrote up in the tech section. It will isolate it down to the bad part, I hate throwing money at a problem. If you get real stuck let me know, I can probably talk you thru it, it is to hot for me to ride up there and survive. If it were 20° cooler I would have jumped on the bike already for a marshmallow butt run up to your place. I do have a spare NIB stator and RR for my 88, I do not know if they are the same in a 2nd gen.

A crash bar / engine guard that is inside of the plastic will do nothing to protect the plastic and paint, and may even make the damage worse. But then it does look like the plastic and paint will do a good job of protecting the crash bar from damage in a non moving drop. In a crash there is no protection for anything.

Bob it does sound like welded contacts, that is why I suggested testing the solenoid first. None of the other possible issues should make the bike crank with the key turned off. But then, what would or could have caused the contacts to weld while the bike was in storage????

Those were the days........................... My 2 oldest are both grandmas, Now I really feel like the wolves are after me.................................. THANKS A LOT...................

That was hilarious.

Welcome to the nut house Dennis The solenoid is to the left rear of the battery. Just follow the big wire from the Positive battery terminal. On that solenoid is one skinny wire, I think it is blue. Disconnect that one skinny wire and see if that make the continuous cranking stop. If it still cranks with that wire removed you need a new solenoid. If disconnecting that wire stops the cranking then you have some other electrical issue, but at least we will know what direction to lead you. PS We have rules here.

The "New Posts" tab is broke, it takes me to an error screen Parse error: syntax error, unexpected '}' in /home/dknelson/public_html/forum/search.php on line 1173

FWIW I have a very strong magnet on the bottom of my bike to help trip a specific traffic light I go thru a lot. I have found many screws and nails and other steel debris stuck to this magnet over the years, I figure every one of them was a potential rear flat.

A "T" patch ( also called a mushroom patch) properly applied from the inside would be fine, I do not trust just plugs, I have had them fail. A "T" patch both plugs the hole and has a patch for the inside. My brother in law owns a service station, their insurance will not allow then to plug a tire for liability reasons, All the major tire makers do not allow just plugs. But then there are still a lot of people that use plugs with good results. I still do carry a plug kit on the bike and in the truck for emergencies. But as soon as I get back to civilization, I have the tire taken off the rim and a proper repair done.

I did some tweaking on the suspension, added some more air to the rear and set the damping down to 1. The front now has no air and I think I am going back to 10W fork oil. Still have to find some old negatives to see if I can get lucky and be able to clean some gunk out of the right fork seal to stop the leak. But it sure rides and handles much better now.

Was doing some more digging. Tires this time. With the bike being a half ton at the curb it is not unrealistic to expect it to weigh 1400-1500 lbs going down the road with 2 real people up, in full gear, and a load of luggage tent etc. The spec sheet calls out a 130/70R18 Bridgestone Exedra front tire, this has a 63 load rating of 600 lbs and a "H" speed rating of 130 MPH. The rear tire is a 200/55R16 Bridgestone Exedra, I have not found this tire listed anywhere, so there is no way to tell what its load and speed ratings are. This also means that if you ride a lot there is no new tire available. I was trying to find a back door way of estimating the GVW since the specs do not say. Since it is such a heavy bike at 963 Lbs curb weight, I was wondering if they remembered to leave room for people and their things. I can see 2 people, plus riding gear, plus luggage and camping gear and stuff to add 500 Lbs to the bike.

It depends on what materials the belt is made from. Kevlar is a popular belt reinforcement. Kevlar has some interesting properties. It grows when it gets cold. So if you get out west and drive from the desert to a high elevation where it is cold, could the belt loosen enough to slip? One slip and the belt is toast. Or if you go from a mountain to deep hot valley will the belt tighten up enough to bind the bearings. The weak link on most timing belts is the teeth. How will ti take a sudden application of torque, like when you take off quick from a stop light, and the back tire slips a bit as it is crossing the wide white paint line and then just as suddenly 18 inches later, hits good pavement again. will that shock load rip the teeth off of the belt?

I wonder if @cowpuc has dried the tears enough to be able to see for the ride home? I think I could here him crying during the presentation. Did anyone catch how many times they said "See, we do listen" then talked about all of the predominately Hardly rallies that they went to for input. No wonder they came out with another Hardly wanabe. I like everything about this new bike except the Hardly engine. At least the 2nd gens should have another bike they can beat up on, and the 1st gens will still rule the roost. My truck has fly by wire throttle, I absolutely hate it. I can really feel that extra half second of delay in throttle response when trying to hold a controlled slide around a corner and steering with the gas peddle. I would hate to have any delay on a bike where that half second could make the difference as to whether or not you can zip out of the way of the jerk that just ran the red light. There are also times that the computer and I are in disagreement as to how far the throttle should be open for the immediate circumstances. They said it has a 750 watt electrical system. I wonder just how much is left after all of the built in electronics are powered. for those that like extra lights or other toys that we just must have. It has 4 headlights and 2 driving lights to power already. The Headlights are LED, BUT all of the "bright" headlights that I have seen use the same or more power than the comparable halogen bulbs.

Quickest way to see if you need to do something is to pull the spark plugs and see if it is running rich lean or just right. Anything else is just a guess.

Under 2 hours and counting

just 2 hours to go.............................

Did you get to introduce Tweeksis to the mom Yam folks? I would think they should want to meet her and hear your stories.

Only 3??????

Interesting, Both of those Ebay starter clutches only come with one of the 2 gaskets that you will need. The first one still only has 3 rollers just like the stock one. The second one has 6 rollers, better, but not near as good as it gets. If you contact member @Dano, he does a starter clutch rebuild that includes all of the needed parts, and he converts it to an 18 roller starter clutch. I have the second one that he ever did and it works great. This system was invented for the guys thar are building a LOT more power into these engines on the V-Max's, where they were breaking the stock setups very often trying to turn over their high compression engines.

Extraction bits and cobalt drill bits are very hard metal, to cut through them you need something harder. Harder would be a solid carbide drill bit. Ideally if you can get one it should be a left hand drill. Many times while drilling out a bolt with a left hand drill bit I have had the bit catch and the screw comes flying out of the hole. Put the bit as deep into the chuck as you can so there is minimal flex, and have a death grip on the drill while you are drilling the head off so that the the drill can not move around. Carbide does not flex at all, it just breaks. You need to drill it VERY slow but at a high RPM and use lots of cutting oil, any oil is better than dry but cutting oil is better than non cutting oils. If you try to drill to fast you will break the carbide drill as it is bouncing off the jagged edges of the broken bits that are still in the hole. Get a size of spotting drill that will take the head off completely. Then once the bolt head is gone you should be able to get the cover off and out of the way so that you can attack the remainder of the bolt with the methods mentioned above. Either weld on a nut if you have that capability or even just try a vice grips. With the head gone it may come out real easy. If you can get a left hand drill bit that is bigger than the hole you already have in the head, heat the bolt to around 300°F and then drill it with the left hand drill bit. There is a good chance that the screw will be out before you drill the head off.