Flyinfool

Check to make sure you have the stock seat. Most people even as tall as you complain the bike is t tall and are looking for ways to lower it. If you do have a lowered seat I'll bet someone will be more than happy to trade with you.

I agree that it looks like the plastic has been bent for a long time and has taken a set. Use a heat gun to get everything back where it belongs. Then use ABS pipe cement to glue all the edges back together. The on the inside paint the area with the ABS cement and lay in some Fiberglass Cloth and more ABS cement to be sure the cloth is fully wetted and it will become part of the fairing making it stronger than new and not add much thickness to get in the way. If you are real careful you can do this and only have the hairline cracks visible in the paint when you are done. When you reassemble if the holes do not line up it is likely that the mounts got bent in a drop. you may have to do some tweaking on them to get it all lined up. It is tempting to just bend the plastic to fit but that will leave stress that will try to fracture again.

I do know that rubber is very expensive, check the date codes and not just the thread depth. I do not know anything more specific about DPs vs bumper pull travel trailer and just to do a lot of looking and checking of all systems.

Me neither. I aint gonna open that link and mess with my poor old brain. There is enough crap stuck in there already without putting something back that I already got rid of. Nope aint gonna fall fer it..............................

Always start with the easy and/or cheap things first. Check the fuse. Check all of the connections to be sure they are still connected. Just sneak under the 2 terminals of the horn with your voltmeter leads to see if power is getting to the horn. If no power then just start following the wire back testing each connection to see where the power stops.

I prefer a car with a stick. The only reason that my truck is an auto is that none of the creature comforts can be had with a stick, I like my carpeting, my power everything and premium sound system. Way back in the 70s I learned how to drive stick on the way home from the dealers lot with my first car. Now I even get weird looks from car salesmen when I tell them that my definition of a sports car is rear wheel drive, a V8 (or a V more), and a stick. Besides, If I get a sports car with a stick I will never have to worry about the wife ever wanting to drive it. But you are correct in that very few people know how to drive a stick anymore, especially young (under 40) people, some are able to, but do not really know how to.

40-50% humidity? I dont even know what that little feels like. We hit 92 today but with 90% humidity

Yes my relay mod is assuming a good front brake light switch. With Bobs switch and my relay mod the cruise and brake light should work as designed.

Love your trip reports bro. But YOU of all people should know the rules. Even the aint above the rules. You know we bust you every time. I just got home from the U.P. You mean you went right past me and didn't wave? I even saw a bike up there that reminded me of the way you pack. Now I see it might have actually been you. I bet we could have gotten into some trouble up there.

With a starting bid of just $5 I will likely toss in a bid just it case it needs to be stolen. It has had almost 700 views, I bet there are a bunch of someones that know exactly what they are looking at. It would sure be fun to have if i can get it cheap. Then just need to dispose of the trailer that is under it. I am guessing it will take more than a tank or 10 of gas to get there and back......... Rough guess is about $1K in just gas. I am guessing Puc would be all over this.

First you need a 12V 5 pin relay that is SPDT. Like this one. I have seen 5 pin relays that have 2 pins labeled 87 and no pin 87a it is a standard SPST with 2 output terminals. You need the SPDT version for this that has a Pin 87a. Connect a wire from Pin 85 to ground. Connect a wire from Pin 86 to tap into the Yellow brake light wire from the brake switch. Connect the green/yellow wire from the brake switch to Pin 30. Connect the Black/White wire from the brake switch to Pin 87a. Place an insulated terminal with no wire onto Pin 87 just so it can not short on anything. You still will have the Yellow and the Brown wires connected to the brake light switch.

Now that heli sure looks interesting to me. That little "TOY" has a jet turbine engine.............. It might just be worth a drive to California if the price was right. But that trailer it is on is junk and not safe to tow. The tongue is bent and it is made up of 2 Harbor freight trailers bolted end to end. Would have to factor in the cost of a new/different trailer to haul it home on.

I see the same thing on my wife's Chevy Trax. She gets 25.8 MPG and I thought I was playing with the turbo a lot and I get 35.2 MPG. That is a HUGE difference due to only driving style. With her driving it is only her in the car. When I drive it, there is her, the 90 lb dog, and me in the car. So on paper I should be getting less MPG due to an extra 325lbs in the car. As I posted earlier, I have gotten anywhere from 18 to 45 MPG on my bike just due to riding style and weather conditions, actually got both extremes on the same day.

I have a replacement MC for my bike that only has the 2 wire brake light switch. To get the cruise to work properly I will be wiring in a relay to operate the cruise part of the circuit. For temporary testing of the system connect the Black/White wire to the Green/Yellow wire to bypass the switch. With the switch bypassed the cruise will not turn off when hitting the brakes. This could be very bad in a fast stop situation with the cruise pulling full throttle to try to maintain speed while you are trying your best to stop fast. This bypass is to be used for testing only. The 4 wire switch is actually a double pole switch, the brake light and cruise circuits are not connected in any way electrically. Your brake light issue and cruise issue are separate electrical issues that are likely connected mechanically by the broken switch. PS @camos My bike is a 1988, 1st gen, MKII, STANDARD.

You can also get the needed gear movement my turning / moving the back wheel while shifting gears.

Yes this is to convert the existing CV carb to EFI. There is not a lot of room to build a manifold to use a single TBI. All the extra stuff for the carb conversion will still be needed for TBI. With the manifold it might cost more to go TBI. If you do a TBI setup, be sure to do a development and build thread as you go.

Are you running any air pressure in the front? How high did you fill the fork oil? Did you fill it with the forks extended or collapsed?

As tires get older they will start to whine even if the tread is still good. Check the date code on the tires to see just how old they are. Check the tires for even wear, if the tire is starting to cup that will cause whine. Tire pressure makes a difference to. Some tires are just a lot louder than others in the curves. The 2nd gens are well known for clutch whine. Are you sure it is not that? But then clutch whine is there all the time, not just in corners, although it can be louder in the corners since the sound can reflect off the road surface to be more noticeable.

The air filters themselves may be fine, but mice love to nest in the air filter housing and exhaust pipes. It sure sounds like gummed up carbs, gas does that when left sitting. A heavy dose of Seafoam often helps a lot. Followed by rid it like ya stole it.

Of course there is always the possibility of a flat tire causing a tip to the right. I had that one winter when the rear tire went flat, opened the shed in the spring and the bike was leaning over against the wall. I still like the 70KV option. It is fun to watch someone touch it, But if they have a pace maker they may be toast................. Maybe get a Van De Graaff generator and and a Leyden Jar and have 500KV or more stored and ready to go.

HEY, I resemble that comment.................... I think a week is appropriate with only a 3 day notice I nearly had a heart attack when the first I new I had expired was that I could not post. Most of us are not gone for more than a week at a time.

I'll be curious to find out if it has provisions to bolt on a trailer hitch. Someone going to one of these showings try to get a pic of the back end underneath to see what kind of frame is there. I am sure that the official response will be that it is not designed or able to pull a trailer, just like all bikes.

So you got no nuts on the front huh.......... Do you have a pic of the front and back of the switch panel So we can see what we are talking about?

I have had my 1st gen take a nap to the right. Wind is capable of doing that. Was ugly in the way for the clear path to the door? An electric fencer hooked up to the window might be fun. or an HEI ignition coil with around 50K volts.

Here is one thread talking about the ebay setup that you are looking at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?82939-single-carb&highlight=manifold Here is the thread for the newer one that the inventor says works great. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?124413-A-new-twist-on-the-single-carb-swap&highlight=manifold