Flyinfool

We may have to bribe @cowpuc with hot dogs, I will bring plenty.

With as expensive as these are I would do some checking to see if I could repair it. With 4 out all in a group I am thinking a broken solder joint or a bad resistor on the board. Both very cheap and easy fixes.

Yea baby....................... I'll be there, my birthday suit may be a bit wrinkled, but IF I bring enough Rum Balls and Pizza, no one will notice.......

Oh fun times, I am hoping my stator lives forever.................. So just how crispy was that stator in Tweeksis?

Know of any links? I could find nothing on google about ever putting water in gas except fore to don't do it. I did find some articles about when the lead was removed from the gas that it was compensated for by a change in the chemical makeup, water was not one of the chemicals listed.

Looked pretty much the same as any other rainy day here. We were at 87% coverage. it was lighter out than I expected even with the clouds. I watched some eclipse on the internet.

I never heard of them putting water in the gas when they went to unleaded. There was playing around with water injection where water would be sprayed into the carb as a mist but that is not the same as adding water to gas. Gas and water just do not mix. I have thought of doing this for my small engines where I will use less than 2 gallons per year. My lawn mower uses 1 gallon per year and my weed eater and chainsaw combine for another gallon per year.

Around here the nearest real gas is nearly 100 miles away, The airport will only fill an aircraft.

The whine comes from the gear mesh to the clutch basket, this is still spinning anytime the engine is running. There was a different clutch basket that can be installed and it did reduce the whine on SOME bikes not all. The whine is not a mechanical problem, the whiners last just as long as the quiet ones. But you do want to check it out to be sure that what you have is the clutch whine, if the whine is coming from the rear end that could be indicating a problem back there. The bottom line is if the whine bothers you then you will never be happy with the bike, if you can live with it knowing that it is just part of the normal sound that the bike makes, then you will love the bike.

Did some playing around with the design of the parts I have to make and it looks like it might be possible to squeeze it in under the edge of the tank on a 2nd gen. Before I can tell for sure someone will need to stop at my place with a 2nd gen so I can get a bunch of measurements and just see where stuff is. There is a lot more to it than just the carb mods, have to find a place for the fuel pump, pressure regulator, filter, pressure gauge, fuel manifold, O2 sensor, control box, TPS, MAP, fuse block, and a bunch of hoses and wires to connect it all together. 1st gen has a lot of room for all the "stuff" I might end having to make a different version for 1st gen vs 2nd gen. I hope not. but the 2nd gen parts would fit the 1st gen but are a lot harder to make, I have a part designed that I have no clue how to make, still thinking on that one. All of threads that are currently running with weird carb issues is what keeps me motivated on this project. I am getting closer to the point where it will just take more money for all the purchased parts. Did I ever mention that I hate carbs, they work on blue smoke and mirrors with some voodoo tossed in.................

Glad it was an easy fix. Now check the oil again to be sure the excess gas is not in the oil. also be sure no gas is in the cylinders before you try to start it, (pull plugs and crank it over) you do not want a hydro lock.

Sure now I think of a critical question to ask. And Puc would be the perfect person to ask it. Where can one get tires for this new beast? I checked all of the popular bike parts places and none of them list a 200/55R16 tire. I looked on the Bridgestone website and even they do not list the tire that is on this bike. Even google could not find this tire size any where other than the bike spec sheet on the Yamaha website. I was just reading that you are about to spoon on your 5th(?) tire for this year, you would have been dead and stranded if you had this new bike with NO tires available. That is like a new tire every 3 weeks. Supposedly they will be shipping these bikes next month, not everyone lives in the great white north and parks their bike for half of the year, to some September is the beginning of the riding season.

They do make bitty little tires that are rated for free way speeds.

So who will be the first of our members to actually ride one of these home so we can get a report of some actual CTFWing as opposed to a short demo ride? I am betting someone here already has a down payment on one.................

AND, if you are gonna open the starter up to clean it, do the ground wire mod while you are in there, it makes a big difference. Also do not forget to clean the mounting surfaces where the starter bolts to the block that is the ground path for the starter power and if it is dirty or corroded it can cause a weak starter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?46806-First-Gen-Starter-Ground-Upgrade&highlight=starter+ground+wire

It sounds like you are making progress, just keep turning the screw for 3 and 4 until it finally moves, if you get to the end of travel maybe you were turning it the wrong way.

The RV plug is different than anything in your house but it is not 220. I have never seen an RV with 220 power, I am sure they are out there but it is not common, Shore power is typically a 30 A 110 plug. 220 may be more common on BIG RVs I have always been around smaller ones. I have run my RV using a 3500W 110V only gen for many years with the AC, fridge, coffee pot, and microwave all running at the same time thru an adapter (I now have installed an RV plug on my generator) and the adapter never even got warm, yes I do check. The reason many of them melt is because it is very common for the RVs contacts on the plug to be very dirty causing a high resistance. As for your original question of having 2 chargers connected. It depends. In order to charge at a higher amp the charger puts out more volts. So if you have one charging at 13.2 V and the other charging at 14.0. the bigger charger can be overloading the smaller one and burn it out. It depends on the charger, some have built in protection for this and some do not. The one I had did not. The way I had my RV set up was that I only connected 110V power using the shore power cable. I permanently connected the real charger to the shore power and then to the battery with a relay so that when there was no shore power the charger would not discharge the battery, (My charger has a parasitic draw from the battery if it is not connected to 110 power, or if I were to connect my really big charger direct to the battery then the small charger would be isolated. I also went in and disabled the wimpy built in charger by putting it on a switch that the switch could select one or the other, so that my charger would not fry the little one. It is not hard to hook up, it is harder to explain.

Wait, you can not get off the hook that easy! You got an 1989 Venture with only 206 miles on it? We need pics of this gem.

There are 2 or 3 upgrades to the hot start problem. 1. Upgrade the stock wimpy cables to at least 4 AWG welding cable so that they can carry more amps to the starter. Also clean all of the connections from the battery to the starter on both the positive AND negative sides so that all the amps can get thru. 2. Upgrade to the 4 brush starter, or do the ground wire update to your 2 brush starter. maybe 3. Some people feel that the AGM batteries will spin the starter faster. I did not have that experience and found the AGM to have a short lifespan. Any one of these upgrades will make a noticeable improvement in hot starts. Of course doing all of them is best. I did the cables and the ground wire mod to my 2 brush starter and have not had any hot starting issues since. I still have a good old flooded Yuasa battery. As mentioned the stator has no bearing on starting, its only job is to supply electrical power after the engine is already running. Not all bikes have a hot start issue. I would wait and see if you have an issue. If you are in deep enough to do the wires I would do that first since that is the least expensive upgrade. My bike starts just fine as is so I will not get a 4 brush starter until this one manages to die, I do not expect it to die for MANY years to come.

Drilling the cover? My understanding is that it is just replacing the bolt in the center of the flywheel with one that comes with a hole in the center, and then sticking a specially bent piece of wire into that hole. No drilling required. The hole in the bolt allows oil under pressure to come out of the crankshaft and the spinning of the flywheel flings the oil outward to cool the stator. I have not looked but you might even be able to do this mod without taking the cover off, just pull out the center part that is held by 2 screws and sealed with a reusable rubber O-ring. If you do not have this mod then you should do it.

First test piece of the Replacement cover, machined out of cheap soft plastic, is done. And it even fits on a carb........... The design and the fixture will need a few minor tweaks just to make me happy. Mostly for cosmetics. The final version will be painted black and then the tops of the fins machined back to bright, just to look pretty. or maybe get them Diamond Cut by that @eusa1 guy........... Next up will be the 2 easy parts, the clamp to hold the injector in and the fuel fitting to attach the fuel line to the injector. Both of these require no special tooling or machine setups so I will probably make them out of metal on the first try. last part will be the adapter to hold the injector in the bore where the slide norm,ally lives, that part needs me to buy a couple of expensive tools to make. It will get done out of cheap soft plastic to prove out the design and my machining methods.

Well due to circumstances beyond my control, I had some time to build the fixture for machining the "Replacement Cover". I will be making up a test set of parts to prove out all of the fixtures and machining methods before I actually order a pile of aluminum to start carving on. I have started making the cover out of a chunk of plastic. I need to do a whole lot of math before the next cut........... PVC plastic is soft enough that I can not crash a tool if I do something wrong. I know that I will also need to buy some cutters to be able to make a few of the tricky precision cuts. There are a few features that need a tolerance of +/-.001 in. Some of the parts I have not even really started to figure out how to make.

It is gonna be real close but I think I will run out of room. I do not know if I can find a shorter injector, or find a way to set the injector a bit deeper.

That is the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. If anything is coming out of the hole it will be either oil or coolant or a mix of both, depending on which seal is going bad. do not plug it, it is there to let any leakage come out to help prevent cross contamination of the 2 systems.

Can you take a pic of the threaded end of the bolt?