Flyinfool

Oh sure post stuff like this where I can see it, I had just calmed down my "NEED" for a new rifle for this hunting season. Now I am all wound up again. I love the idea of a big magnum that will work in either a handgun or rifle. I have often looked into getting such a combo. I would probably lean toward the 45-70 as there is a lot of ammo available that is loaded for a rifle. For the 2 CVAs that you mention, If you reload then I would lean toward the 450, If you are not a reloader then I would lean toward the 44MAG.

It is both, I can not update the browser because the browser newer versions no longer support XP. The newer OS do not have drivers for this old computer. So I can not update the OS which means I can not update the browser. When I click on the vid to start it is says that this browser does not support HTML5. So if the vids can be done in HTML4 then old people like me can view them.

Puc you know I don't get mad................. It took a fraction of a pump. Or was it a fraction of a gallon......

D then E followed by B

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?65506-Anyone-have-a-broken-1st-Gen-MKII-speedometer-cable I think this one might also have the pic I am after http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?67738-Only-3-left-Speedo-Bearing-Coupling-Grease-Tool I would like to reference this thread with pic in another speedo lube discussion. Thanks

cowpuc The fitting I have that was made by another member just screws onto the back of the speed and has a grease Zerk on it. I use what ever is in my grease gun that I use on the front steering linkage of my cages. Ill see if I can find a pic of this tool. edit Here are the threads, Hopefully Freebird will be able to find these old pics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?67738-Only-3-left-Speedo-Bearing-Coupling-Grease-Tool http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?65506-Anyone-have-a-broken-1st-Gen-MKII-speedometer-cable

I use the same grease that I use on my ball joints on the truck for the speedo. I use the same cable lube as for the throttle cables on the speedo cable.

Careful. NO state is off limits............. You are going to get @cowpuc nervous, about the collateral damages............ Congratulations Rick, I can only imagine how good it will feel to flee Illinois.

13.7 is right on the border. Depending on your charger it is possible to charge a battery in 2 hours. Something here is not right. Once the battery is fully charged take it back in for testing. First test your meter to see if it is accurate, compare it against a buddy's meter or test your car across the battery with the engine running. it should also be about 14V. A fully charged battery in your bike should be 12.6V. Here is the full test procedure http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging.

Bummer, my 17 year old computer can not view these new HTML5 videos.......

I have to agree with all of the above sounds like speedo. I never had a speedo cable squawk, but every couple of years my speedo will start squawking. I have a tool that a member here made for greasing the speedo head. quiets it right down every time. You do not have to pull the fairing to get to it. if your hands are real small and limber you can follow the speedo cable up from the bottom and disconnect it from the head. I can only reach far enough to touch it but can not reach to actually get it off, but by just pulling the headlight I can get to it. Worst case is to have to pull the windshield and the cover over the instruments then it will be right there looking at you.

I have a 29 inch inseam and it only took once stopping with my feet over a low spot and finding nothing but air for me to learn to pay close attention to where my feet will be landing EVERY time I come to a stop. I have a stock seat and on level ground I can put one foot flat and the other toe down while seated. If I stand up then I can get both feet flat for duck walking the bike if I have to. I have thought of getting my seat lowered by Rick the Butt Butler so that I can get both feet flat while seated.

Welcome back, sounds like things are shaping up for you. Now that you are sprouting some roots you can update your location in your profile to cut one more tie to California.

Took my honey to a couple of Dr appointments, then we moved my 400 lb landscaping rock back where it belongs after someone ran their car into it. Now I am at work for a half day and then back to couch potato and causing trouble in the VR Chat Room till bed time. (I do need my beauty sleep ya know)

Careful what you ask for, I bet they could have.

There is a good chance there is still an air bubble in there. There are a bunch a different ways to get all the air out. and most of them work. The clutch is hard to do because you never get a real high pressure like you do in the brakes. depending on just where the air is, (there is now way I know of to tell) there are different tricks to getting it out. If it is in the master, it sometimes works to tie the clutch lever all the way against the grip and leave it like that over night with the wheel turned so that that really tiny hole in the master is at the highest point. Many have had good results using a vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight. Others have been able to get it done just using the normal, squeeze, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release, routine.

With these bikes most people seem unable to notice even extensive damage when they are selling. I have gone to look at a few bikes that were near junk that the owner claimed to be in great shape. it is nearly impossible to see small details in pictures that will be a giveaway to internal issues. Unless you know the person well I would be very careful about a sight unseen deal on a 32 year old vehicle. There are some gems out there and there are some great deals out there, just be careful, there is a posting in the 1st gen section of this site with a list of common things to look for on these bikes. IF you do decide to go ahead with this meet, make sure that it is well understood that you each have the right of refusal if the trade is not as advertised. As far as an 86 Venture for a first bike, It can be done, But as mentioned above it is over 800 lbs. It does not take much lean before you get to the point of no return and it is going down. IF you get to the point of no return and it is going down, let it, trying to stop 800lbs in motion has broken more than one leg, it is actually not that hard to pick it back up once you learn the proper technique. But be aware that when it falls over it will go all the way to flat on the ground, some bikes stop tipping at the crash bar, this is not one of them. Learning how to ride will be difficult on a bike this big, not impossible, there are some members here that have done it, but it will be much more difficult. My recommendation would be to get a real cheap 400 to 600 cc bike to learn on for a year. If this deal is good enough it might be worth picking up and spend the year that you are learning on the smaller bike going over this new to you Venture, At 32 years old there is a good chance it will need some work.

I am in full blown couch potato mode again today, keeping my foot elevated.

While testing for an AC component at the battery will identify a rectifier diode that has failed short, it will not identify a diode that has failed open. So it is a good quick easy check that can identify a bad RR, you may still have to jump thru all the hoops to test out the rectifier.

A shorter length filter would be less bad. I agree with the others that with it hanging down like that you are asking for a punctured filter and a very slippery back tire and the engine oil pressure dropping to zero. I also have never seen a setup like that on a Venture of any vintage. As to weather you can go back to stock, it is hard to tell from the pics. it comes down to if someone drilled any holes in the engine or made any other modifications to mount this "thing".

You never know...................

Charge the battery and have it retested to see if it is still good. Lead acid batteries do not like sitting in a discharged condition, that can kill even a brand new battery. Get your voltmeter and check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at over 2000 RPM, if the voltage is real close to 14V that the charging system is fine. If it is low or hi then further investigation is warranted.

Picture quality is really the biggest thing. Just to have an unidentifiable pic of a shape moving around is of no use. I would want one that can read a license plate on the getaway car in front of the house. I see so many home (and business) security vids shown on the news but the quality is so bad that the perp could be my brother looking right at the camera and I would never recognize him. To get into a quality picture is not inexpensive, and you really need massive storage to hold a decent amount of high quality video. Another thing to consider, around here the crooks are getting smarter, If they see cameras, they will make an effort to find and steal the recorder too.

@Marcarl I am not quite ready to try to wrap my head around 3 wheels yet for a bunch of reasons. I think that 200 lbs lighter is what is needed for me at this point, maybe in another 8-10 years it will be time for 3 wheels, just not yet. I will not be making a decision till it gets closer to spring and I see how my booboo has healed up. I am starting to look at options now so that IF I do get to the point of pulling the trigger I have a good idea of where I am pointed and can act fast. Who knows, the healing process may even push me down the road of looking at 3 wheels or even changing to a small convertible. Only time will tell.

Puc Don't sell your self short, you know more about engines than the vast majority of people. You are almost there again, there is no free lunch (unless it is a meat&greet for hotdogs:)) if you add anything there is a cost, It is just that the seat of your pants is not giving you the whole story. You do loose a tiny fraction of a HP due to the friction of the weight moving thru air and oil, it would be tough to measure it let alone feel it. WHat you do get is that the flywheel weight will shift the torque curve a fair amount, does not change the peak torque but it moves the RPM where it happens and that is what you are feeling in the seat of your pants. (unless you just at to many tacos, then you might be feelig other stuff in the seat of your pants) You are also correct that adding 100 lbs will reduce the top speed because you are doing more work, but that goes right back to that stupid formula where HP is moving a specific weight a specific distance in a specific time, you just increased the weight so the speed must come down which will increase the time, but the actual HP never changed. There was a time a few years back where it was all the rage to make pistons out of steel, because with steel the walls could be a lot thinner and you could actually end up with a stronger and lighter piston. But the cost of making forged steel pistons was crazy expensive and if you ever had a case where the skirt managed to touch a cast iron wall, an aluminum piston will scuff but a steel piston takes out the cylinder wall. So that never got popular. I wonder if with newer technology if this could be revisited. With newer technology rotating parts come from mass production balanced a LOT better than back in the day, same hold true for blueprinting, modern manufacturing can hold the tolerances on production parts that you used to get from blueprinting an engine. I think you and I really need to spend some time around a campfire with a mountain of dogs and fixins for s'mores.......