Flyinfool

Glad to hear that progress is being made. You do know that typing on this site is actually good therapy for the fine motor skills of the forearms???? Therefore you can not leave this family, your stuck with us. Might as well just get used to it and keep typing.

Yes your first photo showing D1 is the correct orientation. It also looks like the top pad in that photo is one of those damaged pads I was referring to, that will need to soldered on both sides of the board and may even need some repair wire added.

In looking at it closely slowed way down, when the 2 riders disappear around the curve they are well spaced, not rally tailgating. The as they come back into view, bike one already has his front wheel off the road and past the point of no return, but his rear wheel is still on the road and the bike is nearly pointed perpendicular to the road. Bike 2 has his right foot on the ground and not on the brake, and follows into the ditch. Due to bike one stopping in the middle of the blind curve everyone behind was hard on the brakes in a curve, which is not the best way to get through a curve. Bike 2 just never expected the stop and ended up to close to avoid bike one. My theory is that bike one slowed to a near stop at the apex of the corner, bike 2 was not able to react fast enough and contact was made, that contact disrupted both bikes enough to end up in the ditch. Hows that for a new twist and a WAG.

Hope everyone is about done with this and that you have dodged the bullet. Feed them each a C.R. Pepper, that should kill any bugs and get them up and moving................ Just have the fire extinguisher handy...............

The silver band of the diode must be oriented to match the symbol printed on the board. The symbol on the board has a triangle and a bar, The silver end of the diode goes on the side of the symbol with the bar. When you go to solder these back in, make sure to solder on both sides of the board if there is a circuit on both sides of the board. If you ripped any of the pads off the board in the process of removing the old diodes, make sure to use a bit of fine copper wire to make the connection that was lost. Sometimes with really old boards the solder vac will work better if you first add a bit of fresh solder to the joint. I know it sounds backwards to add more solder to a joint that you are trying to remove the solder, but it does help. Just like some times tightening a stuck bolt will help to get it to break loose.

Congradulations

The time that you were running high voltage you were stressing a lot of things. The ignition switch would be one of the things taking a lot of abuse, and we already know that it a weak link when everything is working correctly. Because of the high voltage in the system the amps going thru the switch are also high, it is the amps that take out the switch. So it is very realistic the the switch as damaged by the high voltage/amps and it now gave up. On the other hand, never underestimate the importance of good grounds, it is entirely possible that some weak grounds were fighting the high voltage to help save some of the other components on the bike.

Last winter I did hit Phoenix AZ a couple of times and even hit LA once. Range is not the issue, did you ever try to aim a snow flake over thousands of miles? Often I miss and cowpuc is usually the beneficiary. Then there is the fallout when I try to loft it up over his house while sending some joy to the northeast. Puc even posted that vid the other day showing just how ecstatic him and Tippy were to see some flakes. As far as thinking that I am and even calling me "one sick puppy", you got to stand in line on that one buddy.

Wait just a cottin pickin minute here. You said that you were not going to gut it out? That means that you are leaving the tenderloins behind!!!!!! The tenderloins are very rarely damaged by a car and they sure are yummy. Then you still have to split it up the back to get the back straps out that might just be the second best part of the deer. Do I gots to drag you up to a deer camp to show ya how its done. Bet you wish you had some snow to help cool down that meat................. I'll get right on it....................

Now I have to go look, I don't think mine has a gearbox, it has step pulleys for a belt drive.

Those fins are totally fake and their only purpose in life is to hold in the rubber plugs. Otherwise they are strictly cosmetic. So feel free to modify them to your taste. But as mentioned above, they either must be there or some other means must be provided to prevent instant coolant loss when the plugs blow out. Not to mention that that hot coolant will dump right on your legs.

The instructions do not mention anything about adjusting the blade to make square cuts. But there are adjustments on the 6 bearings that hold the blade straight. Mine started to cut crooked when it hit around 20 years old. I had to replace and dial in the 6 blade tracking bearings and it was good as new again. I can not vouch for the quality of the newer ones. but when I look at them the castings for all brands of these small saws look to be from the same pattern, even tiny imperfections are the same in all of the brands. I do not know if the complete saw is made identical for all brands or just that they use the same raw casting. But if you look at the pics close, the only difference you see between brands is the color and the decals.

:dancefool:It was just a small test............ But did get it to snow across the pond while the temp was still in the 40s. Your 60° snow that you want so very badly is getting closer......................

But Puc, just think of how much cold air and moisture I ill have access to for the White machine............................ You did not think I would leave it behind where mere mortals could get hold of it did ya??????????

I like snow, when I retire I plan to head even farther north into the lake Superior snow belt where it is normal to have up to 300 inches of snow per year, and even more in a good year.

Sure there is. Just go down the line and select all of them.

Can only hope that the replacements will be honest and fair, at least for a while.

If Wilbe grows into those ears I believe the classification will be LION.

This is the saw that I have. It works much better than a power hack saw. Much cleaner cut. https://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html Then use a 20% off or better coupon on it. The HF saw might even be cheaper than building a power hack saw yourself. On the other hand I fully understand the desire to build things even if it will cost more in the end, It is fun building things. For your math the end answer of 32.07 RPM is correct, You are doing some extra steps that I do not understand what they are supposed to be, but you are getting the right answers. As for strokes per minute, it will be equal to the rpm of the crank shaft. One revolution of the crank is one complete out and back of the blade. Just like a piston on the crank in your engine. I think you are trying to make the last part way more difficult than it is.

An option missing in the choices is gas mileage. A lot of people used to get bikes for the gas mileage to use for commuting. Now cars are cheaper and getting near the same mileage so that incentive is now gone to.

Why would I add food coloring when I already have a dog and access to the real thing? Why did I never even think of such a thing till Cowpuc mentioned it?

Dang, I hate to hear that you two have to jump thru another set of hoops. I sometimes wonder if these lawyers that specialize in dealing with the government don't know that that documentation was needed but this additional delay adds to their bottom line since they get to do it all over again.

Why does this all make me smile and chuckle?????

I guess it all depends on who you talk to. You Have @cowpuc who had 4 or 5, '83 ventures with the 2nd gear issue that he ran each one out to around 250K miles just by skipping 2nd gear. Others are a bit OCD and will dive in to fix it. It is extremely expensive to pay someone to fix it. it is only worth it if you do it your self. It does require pulling the engine and splitting the case to replace some parts in transmission. When 2nd gears goes bad it simply will start to pop out of 2nd gear when under load, it starts by only popping out under a very heavy load and the amount of load to pop it out gradually gets less until it just will not stay in 2nd gear at all. This does not affect any other gears and as Puc has demonstrated it has no bearing on the life of the bike.

Why has water not gotten hard and dry or fluffy yet................?