Flyinfool

Ford is also launching the same thing. In a couple of years everyone will have it. Hopefully the hackers will find a way to turn it off as they have done with many other "built in 'features' " I was looking at switching from GM to Ford until I found out they made extra effort to make the eco boost engines very quiet so that they can pipe in a synthetic sound of a healthy V8 through the cabin speakers. They are doing this on the Mustang and the pickups. This engine noise comes in even if the audio system is turned off. Just like door chimes and other alarms still play even with the sound off. ALL of the car makers are going backwards in engine tech. That is why you see all of the transmissions with so many gears. the new engines have a very narrow torque band so they need a lot of gears to try to stay in the sweet spot of rpm.

Simple solution, leave NO TP in the bathroom, that will get their attention.

A lot of people use this method of shopping. Then they are the first to complain when the store closes. If I am going to go thru the effort to drive to a store to try things on or get other hands on with a product, that service is worth something to be and I will pay more to support that convenience. I do not end up buying a lot of stuff on line.

Yup I think that the old @cowpuc and I may be in trouble. I was unable to make it to the UP of Michigan to seal up @saddlebum back door. I looks like he is about to take full advantage and swing that puppy WIDE open and let an arctic blast out and headed this way. And Mr Cowpuc knows what happens when that Saddlebum lets out with a blast of cold air.

As long as the oil you use matches all of the designations in your owners manual, I do not think their is such a thing as a "bad" oil out there. If there was they would be out of business in very short order. That does not mean that some oils are not better than others in some specific applications. But there is a good chance your bike will not know the difference.

Yes you need to sure that you have good solder connections to both sides of the board. If you fire it up in the bike with a bad solder joint it will be the same as a blown diode and it will fry the TCI. Normally the holes are plated thru so that both sides of the board are electrically connected thru each hole this is why the factory only has to solder the back side of the board. once you damage a pad you are breaking the connection that goes through the hole in the board so it is now up to you to make sure that you are properly connected on both sides. As for getting Kero, I still get it at the local gas station just down the block. they have no sign out, you just have to spot the pump hiding in the back corner of the lot. https://www.yellowpages.com/owego-ny/kerosene-gas-stations

This sounds like it will be a fun thread. I love when people do things that are different.

I think the pics are upside down because the bike is kind of sky blue so the puter thought that should be up???????? That sure sounds like a heck of a deal on a nice looking bike. If it has been sitting a while, check the date codes on the tires to be sure that they are not to old to ride safely.

Sorry I disappeared for a bit, was out chasing deer for 2 weeks..... On that board, the green areas are copper circuits, the "black" areas are the parts with no copper. Some of the pads have a brown ring around the wire, these are damaged pads. The brown ring is where the copper used to be but it got pulled off with the old diode lead. This means that there is nothing there to solder to. Some of the circuits connect on the top of the board and some connect on the bottom and a few connect on both sides of the board. So if there is a green area that runs up to a lead, you must make sure that the lead is soldered to that copper under the green. You may need to use a razor blade or Xacto to VERY GENTLY scrape some of the green paint off of the copper next to the lead so that you can solder to it. you need to examine each lead to which sides of the board it actually connects to circuits and then make sure it still does after soldering.

Since my 1st gen is not a V twin I tried the Amsoil 10W-40 which is the recommended weight for the engine. It worked fine except that all the seals started to leak. Next oil change I switched back to the old oil and the leaks stopped. I have tried several brands of synthetics in my 1st gen. They all leak, Dino oil does not leak.

For the cost it better apply its self.

One good kick may have sheared the key on the flywheel and caused a change in timing. Check to see if the key slots are still lined up.

In Wisconsin they used to pick up all the dead deer but that got to be to expensive. 65,000 in 2016 deer is a BIG pile of deer to dispose of. Now WI just leaves the carcasses on the side of the road and lets nature do the disposal.

The tip over relay and switch only kills the fuel pump. I hate intermittent electrical gremlins, they can be the hardest to find. I just hope it does not leave you stranded somewhere out in the boonies. Pack some food, water, and a charged cell phone..............

My last ride of the year was back on Aug 21. Was just my 22 mile each way commute to work, but it was at least a ride. Then I blew out my Achilles tendon on the 22nd getting the bike out for a ride to work, there will be snow ice and salt on the roads before I am able to even think about getting the bike out again. I hope to be mobile enough to get the winterizing of the bike done this coming weekend.

It is a lot easier to have a level of preparedness out in the country. I live in the big city and it will take a completely different stratagy for survival when the stuff hits the fan. If it is a real WWIII, then I will not have to worry about it. Milwaukee has a LOT of military contractors and is on the first strike list of all the nuclear nations. So I and my family will be vaporized before we know there is a problem, and never have to worry about it for more than a couple of seconds. On the other hand if it is not an all out nuclear fiasco, bullets food and water will become the new currency. The first thing I will do is get as far from the city as possible. I can disappear into the deep woods and live off the land just fine. But because I would need to be mobile on a moments notice and could take no more that what fits in my truck with me. A huge store of anything will do no good. My truck can go 600 miles on a tank of gas, I never let it get below half a tank. both for bug out reasons and it is not good for the fuel system to run it below a half tank. I can load my needed gear and head out of town in just a few minutes if need be. I avoid over sanitizing myself so that my immune system is always running full speed. Some think it is gross, but it does make a difference. If you are never exposed to germs your immune system will not know what to do when one does show up. It is getting obvious in today's youth.

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Just ask @cowpuc about people that thought they got a lot of snow.............

As long as the wattage of the LED is not more than the bulb it is replacing then the wiring is compatible. Do not make the assumption that LED means low power, some (not even most) of the high brightness LEDs use MORE power than the stock bulb. The other big thing to consider is that many LED headlight bulbs will not focus correctly in your stock housing so they will look really good up close but suffer trying to get light down the road, and more importantly an improperly focused and aimed headlight will blind oncoming drivers where you really do not want someone coming at you with a 120 MPH closing speed with their eyes closed because you light is not right. Before you do the switch park the bike in the driveway and mark the spot it is parked, turn on the headlight so that it is shining on a wall or the garage door, make the height of the top of the beam, now after changing to the LED put the bike in the same position and check the height of the beam, make sure that all of the bright parts of the beam are below the mark that you made on the wall.

I found that that start signal goes a lot of places before anything happens. When you say it would not start, did it turn over but not start or did it do nothing when you pushed the start button? The obvious first culprits are the kill switch, the start switch, and the side stand switch. Clean each of these. On mine I also had an intermittent kill and no crank caused by a bad factory crimp on the Red/White wire that goes to the kill switch the bad crimp was in the connector inside of the faring. Accessible thru the headlight or with the wind shield and instrument cover off.

I have been reloading for 20+ years now. I shoot mostly rifles so I do not have a progressive loader. I load for accuracy so I weigh out each and every load of powder. To me the whole reloading process is a form of relaxation, I enjoy doing it. That alone makes it worthwhile to me. There is a good size investment to get started but after that it depends on the caliber as to how much if any you can save. There are pros and cons to almost everything, you have to do what is right for you. I also have a lot of fun experimenting with different loads to try to achieve a specific performance. You have to price out the components that you plan to use to see if there will be any savings for what you intend to load. A lot can also depend on your specific firearm, all factory ammo is loaded light enough to be safe in the crappiest gun being produced. If you have a much better stronger gun then you can load a lot hotter than the factory can, just do not share your ammo with others who might put it in a lessor gun.

Last I heard he was still doing these. You might want to send him a PM and/or an email.

I am just saying that in all applications that require any type of lubricant, I always have used what was recommended by the manufacturer of the equipment and have never been let down yet. There are times where I want to alter the design characteristics of something, and sometimes like in the case of forks, you need to bump up or down a weight. But I stay with the same type of oil. Some engineer spent a lot of time choosing an oil and the hole sizes in the valving to all work together under the conditions of this specific job. yes you might save $5 on the oil IF what you picked works the first time and you do not have to try something else, then you would be in the hole dollar wise. Fork oil is good for many years so that $5 savings works out to less than $1 per year savings. Is it really worth it to be experimenting. Unless of course you are experimenting for the fun of experimenting, then forget everything I just said. Cuz messing around with stuff is also fun, not economical, but still fun. We all know that I am not afraid to mess with things and change the way that it was designed to work and my mods are rarely the cost effective way to.

Getting smooth airflow through the manifold in that small of space is the hard part. My guess is that you will loose some top end power. But by all means go for it, Who knows your way might just be way better than my way? I am by no means an expert on fueling an engine. If you do it please post progress pics.

Glad to see you are on the way back. With the battery in the stock location it is a common upgrade to use #4 AWG welding cables for the starter. If you are moving the battery to the rear, or even to the side car I would consider going up to #2 AWG welding wire. OK silly side car question, I have often heard people refer to "flying the car". I have seen photos of the side car up off the ground in both right hand and left hand turns. Which if either is "correct" and is either considered the safe or proper way to take a fast corner?

My view is that fork oil is not that much more expensive to use and is specifically engineered for the job. It is not like you are racing the RSV and changing fork oil a couple of times a day that cost will add up. Fork oil is good for years at a time. if you choose the wrong fluid to put in there you could be putting your life at risk to save $2 a year. is it really worth it. Most venture owners have ended up between 10 and 15W fork oil, I think that putting in 50W will be almost like a solid front suspension. When looking at a multi weight oil like 20W50 ignore the first number. that first number is its weight at -13°F and the top number is its performance at 302°F, I doubt if you will be riding at either temp so why rely on viscosity modifier additives that will break down over time, as opposed to using the right oil to start with. http://www.belray.com/what-exactly-do-multi-visc-designations-mean