Flyinfool

Quickest way to see if you need to do something is to pull the spark plugs and see if it is running rich lean or just right. Anything else is just a guess.

Under 2 hours and counting

just 2 hours to go.............................

Did you get to introduce Tweeksis to the mom Yam folks? I would think they should want to meet her and hear your stories.

Only 3??????

Interesting, Both of those Ebay starter clutches only come with one of the 2 gaskets that you will need. The first one still only has 3 rollers just like the stock one. The second one has 6 rollers, better, but not near as good as it gets. If you contact member @Dano, he does a starter clutch rebuild that includes all of the needed parts, and he converts it to an 18 roller starter clutch. I have the second one that he ever did and it works great. This system was invented for the guys thar are building a LOT more power into these engines on the V-Max's, where they were breaking the stock setups very often trying to turn over their high compression engines.

Extraction bits and cobalt drill bits are very hard metal, to cut through them you need something harder. Harder would be a solid carbide drill bit. Ideally if you can get one it should be a left hand drill. Many times while drilling out a bolt with a left hand drill bit I have had the bit catch and the screw comes flying out of the hole. Put the bit as deep into the chuck as you can so there is minimal flex, and have a death grip on the drill while you are drilling the head off so that the the drill can not move around. Carbide does not flex at all, it just breaks. You need to drill it VERY slow but at a high RPM and use lots of cutting oil, any oil is better than dry but cutting oil is better than non cutting oils. If you try to drill to fast you will break the carbide drill as it is bouncing off the jagged edges of the broken bits that are still in the hole. Get a size of spotting drill that will take the head off completely. Then once the bolt head is gone you should be able to get the cover off and out of the way so that you can attack the remainder of the bolt with the methods mentioned above. Either weld on a nut if you have that capability or even just try a vice grips. With the head gone it may come out real easy. If you can get a left hand drill bit that is bigger than the hole you already have in the head, heat the bolt to around 300°F and then drill it with the left hand drill bit. There is a good chance that the screw will be out before you drill the head off.

I don't know if I can get into chat that early, But I will get there.

Inspect the mating surfaces with a magnifying glass especially the o-ring surfaces, both halves. It does not take much of a nick or burr or piece of dirt to cause a leak.

I guess the point of no return is different for all of us. So far I have yet to drop the bike with me around to see it. There was one time mine went over to the left while parked in the back yard, The first I knew was when my honey came home and asked why I had the bike laying on its side in the back yard. The side stand had sunk into the ground and over she went. That one was hard to pick up because the side stand was now in the way so I had to lit the bike up and over the side stand to get it back up. So then I got smart, or so I thought, this spring when I brought the bike out of storage and had it parked on the still very soft ground I had one of my nice polished stainless steel plates under the side stand. Well did I mention the ground was still soft, It was soft enough that the wheels sunk into the ground until the bike fell over on the right side. Much easier to pick up when on the right side, and no side stand in the way. In case you don't know, when a 1st gen goes over, it goes all the way over till the corners of the fairing are on the ground. Not like a 2nd gen that just goes to the crash bars so you only have to pick it half way back up. Those guards on the 1st gen are just to protect the engine, not to catch the bike.

@BigLenny 1, 2, 15 and 17 agree with what I posted back in post 31 of this thread and I still agree. #4 you just had to throw in that "in their right mind" part, these are the same minds that 3 years ago were still putting in a cassette deck on new bikes..... #8 , in the mosaic the outer lights look smaller than the center 2, could be 2 headlights and 2 driving/fog lights. 4 Headlights would be awesome, 2 high beam and 2 low beam and they all are on with high beam, be the same as a cars lighting. You can not have to much light in deer country at night. With that possible 4 headlight system and heated grips seats and backrest, I am hoping for a really beefy charging system that can power all that and still have room to handle a lot of add on toys, like extra lighting heated gear etc.

I found it. Page 284 of the PDF from above, or page 5-29 of the manual. 8Nm or 5.8 Lb/Ft. for the two mounting screws for the anti dive to the fork leg.

Not sure if your MK1 is the same spec as a MK2. The service manual for a MK2 calls for 7Nm or 5.1 Lb/Ft. You can download a MK1 service manual here. http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/8385servicemanual.pdf

When trouble shooting problems like this it is helpful to get a resettable circuit breaker to replace the fuse. this way you can just push a button to get the power back on to continue the process and not create a mountain of blown fuses. Once you have it fixed, take out the circuit breaker and put the proper fuse back in, fuses ae more reliable than circuit breakers. Just resist the temptation to hold the button on the breaker or to put in a bigger fuse to see where the smoke is coming from. I have seen first hand where flames were the first indication of the location of the problem.

After looking at some pics of how this works, I do not think it would be to hard to modify the existing 1st gen centerstand to be a ride off. It is just a matter of shortening the legs so that both wheels of the bike stay on the ground while on the center stand. BUT!!! There always seems to be a BUT. Because both wheels are always on the ground, it will now be more difficult to fix a tire on the road. It will be harder to check air pressure in the tires and inspect the thread all the way around, If the surface is not smooth flat and level there is more of a chance of the bike not being as stable while parked on the center stand. This could be alleviated by keeping a piece of something (maybe a 2x4?) with the bike to allow the normal height of the center stand when needed. This does sound interesting none the less. I will need to do some measuring to see just how much shorter the center stand needs to be to keep both wheels on the ground. Off hand I am guessing it only needs to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter. I have a torch a sledge hammer and a welder, I can fix anything............

This sounds interesting, I never heard of it, Now I have to do some research to see if I can find any pics and/or video of it. With the right size of firecracker in your back pocket and an electric igniter, you can push a button and get your ass off the ground.

Can you run the gas down in the tank far enough to pull the sender and go fishing for the parts with one of those parts grabber claw type thingies. A note to everyone else, IF you haven't already, loctite those screws in the bottom of the filler cap.

I noticed that too. But in the pics there is still a clutch lever on the left handlebar.

Still check, it don't cost nuttin, and new stators have been known to go bad.

Start by cleaning all the battery terminals, at both ends of each wire. Check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at above 2000 RPM.

I thought I had a small pile of the tools left, I think I put them all in the same place that Dan did..........

The numbers all look good to me............. So do the pictures............... My cholesterol is borderline dangerously low so I have to eat all the good stuff to survive............. I decided to loos a bit of weight so I have cut back to around 4,000 cal per day.

Fats and oils must be good for you. Just like a finely tuned race engine needs oil to survive. My grandma is now 103 years old and all her life she cooked and baked using lard, the real stuff made from real animal fat. I would seriously like to do some experimenting on a big pile of poutine. Wisconsin Russet taters and well we are the cheese capitol of the world. I do not see anything bad with poutine, it looks like part of a healthy balanced diet to me......... As far as death by sex, I would like to do some experimenting there too.

You know Mr Pucster, It has been kind of cool lately, perfect weather for development work on your 60° surprise.......... Do you need to get blasted in 60° stuff so that you can stay home and make sure things are taken care of? Glad that the docs made you smile. Now get out and or is it ?