Flyinfool

You can always do a quick test to see if you are in the correct gear for the conditions at the moment. Slide your throttle hand up so that you are gripping the throttle and the parts in front of it so that you do not subconsciously adjust the throttle. While cruising at a steady speed. shift up or down a gear. If the bike speeds up then you were in the wrong gear for the conditions. It can be hard to wrap your head around the fact that often a lower gear and the higher RPM will allow you to close the throttle slightly and get better gas mileage. But it really does work that way. around 4,000 RPM seems to be the sweat spot. Sometimes it means riding around town in second gear. It is nice to get into the higher gears to make the bike more quiet. but then you loose the option of instant acceleration to get out of the way and you may be paying for that quiet with more gas.

I want one........................... I wonder what the price tag will be? I wonder how long it can fly on a charge? I wonder if the "only to be flown over fresh water" is because it is not if you crash but when you crash? Water is softer than ground, Salt water and electronics do not play well together. But I still want one......................

I looked at mine this morning before I jumped on it to head into work. The crops were just starting to sprout in the layer of dirt that is on the trunk........ Does that mean it is time to wash it?, Wont getting it wet just help the crops grow? Your bike looks good, mine will never be that clean unless I loose a bet and have to let someone else wash it.

I am not sure, it does not state anywhere that it is compatible with a wet clutch. Worst case it will cause the clutch to slip, in which case you will need to change it out to an oil that will work with a wet clutch.

Awesome! I cant wait to meet it in person somewhere.

OK you have verified half of the circuit is good. With bike turned on (does not need to be running), at the side stand relay, check from the red/white wire to ground, there should be 12V. Check from the blue/yellow wire to the red white wire. There should be 12V with the side stand down and 0V with the side stand up. With the bike turned off. check voltage from the blue/yellow wire to ground, it should be zero. If it is zero V then check resistance from the blue/yellow wire to ground, it should be infinity. If it is low resistance then the blue/yellow wire is shorted to ground somewhere.

Putting in the K&N filter will lean it out, many have had to go back to a stock filter because the K&N was to lean. These bikes are very sensitive to any changes on the intake side.

4 of you carried it? Dang you and your friends are a lot stronger than me. This is not a lightweight bike. I wonder, if a pin falls out of the shift cam it will prevent you from shifting up beyond that point. If you are above that point when the pin falls out will it also prevent you from going below that point? What say ye that have spent more time in the trans than I have. I thought that that part can at least be seen by pulling the clutch cover.

DOH! Dats what I meant, a brick, ya that's it. Knew it all along..................

Age and miles have little do do with needing the carbs pulled and rebuilt. All it takes is one winter storage that was not done correctly and the carbs can be gummed up. 1st gear should just about pull the front wheel off the ground. you should get near 40 mpg. Some get a little better and some a bit worse, but in that ballpark. These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders, there have been people that have run a whole year not realizing that they were running on 3. I would start by giving it a heavy dose of SeaFoam, a full can to a tank of gas and then take it out and ride it like ya stole it, park it over night and then ride it like ya stole it again. do this for a couple of days till the tank is near empty then refill and see how things are. This is the cheap and easy thing to try first. From a cold engine, start it up and monitor the exhaust pipe temps to see if one heats up slower than the rest, this is likely your weak cylinder. it could be spark, fuel or mechanical. Can you give us some history on the bike?

Odds are your clutch is just fine, it is the spring that goes kaput. The spring dying is an age thing unrelated to miles driven. Skydoc_17 in the member classifieds sells a stronger spring and also sells the parts to replace the half friction disc with a full disk to get even more grip, as does a few other places. Don't forget to order the gasket with it. If your bike has a good lean while on the side stand the clutch spring can be replaced with no loss of oil. If you look at the Barnett setup, be sure to get the heavy duty springs and not the standard springs.

Well here are a few pics to wet your appetite. It sure does not look a lot different from when I started, but there is a lot of time wrapped up in it already, most was filling and sanding and the early parts of paint prep. The pulse jet is just temporarily mounted to get a rough idea on where the CG is headed. It looks like everything needs to be as far forward as it can go and I will still need a lot of lead in the nose. This also means that there is no reason to skimp on any structure up front. @cowpuc

How big of chunks are we talking about here? Bob, unless he has one of those special copper magnets....................

The most logical place to have tied the wires together is near the side stand switch. But since you say the the side stand indicator on the dash is working correctly then it is unlikely that someone tied the 3 wires together. Try this, at the connector where the side stand relay is supposed to be, connect a temporary jumper wire from the black wire to the black/white wire. This should prevent the bike from starting and it should kill the bike if it is already running. This will prove out that half of the circuit is or is not working correctly. Try unplugging the side stand switch connector, the bike should not run. if the bike does run with the switch unplugged, then you have an issue with the blue/yellow wire that will have to be tracked down.

The MK1 and MK2 hitches are not interchangeable. Different frame dimensions and mounting points on the rear of the bikes. $400-500 is also ridiculous. For a new hitch.... http://www.motorcycle-hitch.com/Yamaha.html They come up fairly often on ebay. Just watch close to be sure all of the parts are there. Sometimes when they remove it from the bike they do not take off all of the brackets to include in the sale, and sometimes the intentionally break up the parts into separate sales. When I bought my hitch there were sever sellers that had broken the hitch into separate auctions, boy were they all POed when I bought some parts from each of them, now they were left with incomplete hitches that would be almost impossible to sell.

When you say shavings, are you talking visible chunks or just ultra fine particles like iron dust? My understanding of the 2nd gear issue is that there is a washer that is not hard enough and it will wear. That wear will show up as iron dust on the magnet. If you have visible chunks, it might be time to worry.

It might even tell you where it is in the owners manual or service manual, It does in the 1st gen manuals.

Price is going up quick, it is already up to $30 + $9 for the safety strap.

Unfortunately the place I got my HID from (HID Country) started out as a great place,I bought 7 HIDs from them for various vehicles and they were all great. But they went down hill and changed to all China systems and started ripping people off till they went out of business, reopened under a new name but kept the poor practices and shoddy Chinese junk and again went out of business. Not sure if they have again reopened or not under another new name. Really a shame, they originally had great stuff. I did some research and it looks like they are open now as The Light Pros. I have no info on this new place good or bad. Only that when I entered the HID Country web address this place is what opened.

Unfortunately the place I got my HID from (HID Country) started out as a great place,I bought 7 HIDs from them for various vehicles and they were all great. But they went down hill and changed to all China systems and started ripping people off till they went out of business, reopened under a new name but kept the poor practices and shoddy Chinese junk and again went out of business. Not sure if they have again reopened or not under another new name. Really a shame, they originally had great stuff.

A lot of those LED adds still bother me. When they list the amp draw as a nice small number, and then list the wattage as a big number because many people equate wattage with brightness, but the numbers do not add up. One place they say 2200 lumens per bulb and another says 4000 per bulb. They say there are 3 LEDs per bulb, the LED that they are using draws 1.2A each, so 3.6A per bulb, The LED outputs light at 120° but they claim 360° beam pattern, yet the picture shows the 3 LEDs all in a row pointed the same direction mounted in a metal heatsink, Last I checked Scotty has not yet given us the formula for "transparent aluminum", for the light to shine 360° thru the heatsink. And now with telling you it is shipped, and then later telling you that it is not in stock. That seller is raising red flags. For those interested in all the technical dodo here is the data sheet for the LED chip they claim to be using. When a LED bulb supplier tells me which LED chip they are using, I always look up the specs. If the math don't work, then I have a hard time trusting the parts of their claims that I can not check out. The LED technology does exist today to equal and possibly exceed the output of a HID system. But I doubt that it will be found first in the bottom end of the price spectrum. I am hoping the LEDs actually do get as good or better than HID, before my 6 year old HID burns out. They are getting real close.

A new plate is 3mm (.1181 inch) thick. The wear limit is 2.8mm (.1102 inch) thick. Not much difference from new to worn out.

Mama, bring your tent stakes................

I am another one that never touches the petcock. With a full tank of fuel the fuel level will be above the float level in the carbs, So if the pump and float valves fail it could allow gas to drain thru the carbs. the overflows should let the gas drain out on the floor before overflowing into the engine. I would really hate to turn that thing, crack it without noticing the crack (because they are soooo easy to turn) and then have it fall apart on the road and leave me stranded with no gas and a tank that will not hold gas.

I find it interesting that these are aluminum slides with a hard anodize coating, the OEM are plastic. Hard anodize is really hard and abrasive, I would worry about wear to the bore in the carb body. Gas is a lousy lubricant. Being a different material I think you would want to replace all 4 as a set, just so they are all the same weight and all the same diaphragm characteristics, and then should all have the same response time. The ebay add does say that there have been 53 sold, so someone has tried them.