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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
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The carbtune I bought came in, so if any of you guys in the Texas Panhandle want to get together and sync your carbs, let me know and we can schedule a day.
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Bought a used '87 Venture couple months back with 45K miles on it, very nice condition. Worked great for almost 200 miles. On the second day, coming back home from some local shopping (and the wife's first ride on it) the engine died out on the freeway like it lost electrical or no fuel. After 10 minutes was able to start it, and it ran for 100 yards and died again. 10 more minutes goes by and it started again, was able to run with low RPM the remaining 2 miles home. Felt like a "no fuel" issue, perhaps a clogged line/filter or fuel pump failure. Bike is 20 years old, found rust chips in the filter, not enough to clog the filter. Pump working fine. Maybe the line itself at the tank (running in reserve position full time as previous owner always did). Went through electrical, pickup coils OK, ignition coils OK, wires/caps/plugs OK but replaced them anyway. Engine seems to be running long term now, but backfiring through carbs, hard to keep running without choke on, running rough. Symptoms seemed to keep changing along the way. Cleaned all connectors, swapped out TCI no change. In place cleaning carbs, I spray carb leaner in ports and pour down some SeaFoam, no better. Did run better when carb spray shot down throat of 2 left carbs though (#1 and #2). Feels like a fuel issue still at play - maybe reason for misfire? Can make bettrer or worse with carb adjustments. Maybe carbs need severe cleaning. Compression all about 190# - great numbers for a 20 year old bike! Replaced all diaphragms. I have one good used spare if someone needs just one. 3 others have a small pinhole or about to develop one to three pinholes so might work for a short while if some is desparate. Got a Morgan Carbtune Pro and it sync'd up OK despite the constant misfire. Nice unit by the way. Sync'ed my 2007 Venture also really easy. Backfire through the carbs seemed to go away but still have misfire through exhaust. After much fiddling with carbs, including removing them for cleaning (but not tearing them open) and using some carb cleaner and light scraping to remove the heavy carbon buildup on the intake valves. No leaks that I can find in the intake manifold boots or vacuum hoses or caps. Still get misfire. Float bowl fuel level was OK. I did find in reinstalling the carbs the engine would run for a while and quit. Now I definately have a fuel problem. Pumped fuel and rust chips out of tank. The thick braided fuel line from the fuel pump passes through a spring clip at the top rear of the carbs. It squeezed the hose shut when in the clip (softened up over the years). I think early in the process I pulled the hose out of the clip I never put it all the way back in until now since it was hard to reach and that silently cured the fuel flow issue. Thinking back I suspect this is the orignal reason the bike died on the freeway. It gets just enough through to fill the bowls at idle speed or engine off. Still have misfire though. Seems like cylinders 3 and 4 are the main culprits now, but #1 and #2 react the most with carb cleaner down the throat. Really stumped at this point, read practically every related post on this forum for months now, found some similar threads, lots of good tips for certain things, but none a perfect match to my issues. Took it to the shop. Valves OK. Carbs tore apart, new rubber plugs and gaskets were needed, evidence of some leakage between sections, gaskets dried out, rubber plugs dried out. Now all system checked OK, new oil, coolant, lube, valve alignment. Still same problem. Constant misfire through the whole RPM range, especially under load. An intermittent in the pickup coils was a guess, but could not confirm. #3 and #4 seem to be affected. This is a long post reflecting the long journey and many hours in the garage and shop chasing and diagnosing and such. Problem is getting old by this point. Yesterday brought bike back home from shop. Now convinced all systems are working as designed, today I took a deeper look at the intermittant pickup coil theory. I wanted to somehow verify this before spending a load of money on this. Myself and shop ohmed them out to be in spec (about 116 ohms) except shop thought one was half value at one point. I am experienced in electronics design and repair (have tools and know how to use them ) so I put my dual trace oscilliscope on the pickup coil connector and compared them all with engine idling at 2K RPM. You get about 12 to 15 volt spikes - 1 positive pulse followed immediately by one negative pulse for each pass of the magnet. Engine still misfiring regularly, never saw a missed pulse though, and all stayed at the same voltage peaks. The pickup coils are declared good. Yesterday reading through some more postings here I picked up some more good tidbits. One person mentioned that these engines run very well on 3 cyclinders and other than lack of performance and low fuel mileage, it can be hard to tell if (only) one cyclinder stops working (bad plug wire for example). This would be key advice later on. I pull the #3 plug cap, misfire goes away, but runs about the same, rough. Install #3 and pull #4 and misfire is back but runs rough as before. Like the shop said, #3 and #4 do not seem to be pulling their weight. But why only #3 causing misfire? A mystery. With all systems verified to be working, but the bike not working right, I figure it was time try something new. I connected #3 input to the ignition coil to the input of #4 coil, left #3 coil disconnected. Engine now runs smooth but at 1000 RPM higher. Revs up clean. This verifies pulse train from pickup coils to TCI to #3 ignition coil input verified OK even though it was the misfire cylinder. You might now suspect the #3 ignition coil, wires, cap, or plug, except they all check out with test gear. Now that it is running nice on 3 cylinders I connect input to #4 ignition coil to the #3 ignition coil. Stays running nice. The suggestion that it should run smooth on 3 good cylinders rings true enough. RPM is 2000+ at idle through all of this to keep it running before. Short test ride is great. Then sync the carbs and set proper idle and all is as it should be now. Test ride is sweet. So the faults: 1. Squeezed fuel hose at clip near top rear of carbs (found very late in the process, unknowingly resolved early on) 2. In cleaning all connectors while chasing the original problem, symptoms changed to misfire and unknowingly had swapped the #3 and #4 ignition coils after testing them. Leads are not labeled and the longer connector from the wire harness actually goes to the rear ignition coil. 3. The coil input wire swap happened before the fuel line pinch was unknowingly resolved so there was never a period when the engine ran "right". Symptoms changed over time, but with the carb adjustments now thoroughly fiddled with, was hard to tell why or when. The good part of the story: 1. With my work and the shop visit the bike has a documented clean bill of health through all systems (except the shocks that leak air). 2. Visiting the Yamaha shop with my wife to get parts 1 week after this all started she sees the 2007 Venture and declares it ours, and directs that I sell the other one that left her stranded on the side of the freeway. (she is a Project Manager, makes decisions fast, especially when it means the possibility of her helping push the bike along the street far from home:cool10:). 3. Given #2 above the '87 bike being out of commision all summer did not prevent us from doing about 6 one- and two-day road trips since May 28th to July 9th. I now have a commute bike that seems like a lighter weight sport bike compared to the '07 Venture. There is definately more passenger space on the '07 though. I am 6'1" and find the '07 to have better leg/foot space for me and the passenger. The '87 passenger toes practically hit my calf and do often at stops manuevering into the footpeg slot behind the fairing. I like the louvers closing off the heat, and look forward to opening them during the winter commutes. Commuting is 1-up only so the passenger issues are not applicable. I added a backrest to teh '07 and the handle bars seem like a long reach still, despite my long arms, so several hours into a ride I feel it. Not sure how much longer I will keep the '87, but I enjoyed working on the bike, getting to know the '07 better via the similarity to the '87, and experiencing a bike I had wanted for many years in the 1980's but could not afford back then. I rode a XS1100 then. I added a full fairing and lowers, air shocks, double buckets, luggage racks, detachable side cases, engine guards, hiway pegs, and sliding back rest. Toured New England for 3 years with the wife before kids came along and moving to Washington (Seattle area) in 1985. Had a XS750 Special in Hawaii for 3 years before that 1100. Sold the 1100 in 1991 and after 18 years of carpooling kids in a cage, I (we actually) am back into big bikes again now. Great forum here, hope this post helps someone in the future. Happy trails, Mike -
While on a recent tour of the northern United States I experienced a problem that made me think it is time for a carb overhaul or re-build. I have a 1990 VR with 82K miles on it. The question I have is: Is there a carburetor rebuild kit available for these carbs ? If so, where ? This would be a kit containing gaskets, needles, seats, etc. I see some good data on the tech bulletin board about rebuilding the carbs but no mention of where to get parts or if a kit is available. Thanks for the help Red Baron
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1st generation--why do some people call the motor a sleeper motor? 2 0f 4 carbs is not working to their full potential? true or false:confused24:
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I have bought some Sea Foam and am not quite sure whether I should just pour some into the gas tank or if I also need to pour some into the carburetor. I think the carbs are what need the cleaning the most which would be taken care of by the Sea Foam in the gas tank. However, given that my plugs were black, it may also be a good idea to clean up the valves with it. If you have used Sea Foam, how have you used it to get good results? Thanks for your input. If you put some in the carbs did you pour it in directly while the engine was running or did you use the vacuum lines?
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Ok, I know that this is like my 3rd post this week but just bear with me. I have only had my bike for 4 months and have alot to learn. I recently "punched out" the stock mufflers on my RSV. It really gave me the sound I was looking for. The exhaust has been popping on deceleration (which I figured was normal and I needed to get the carbs synched). I did not have time to have the carbs worked on before my last trip to Southern California (about 800 miles round trip). The bike ran great going there but started running a little rough coming home. I set the cruise at 80mph (which according to police radar is only 75mph) almost the whole way. Also, my mpg was about 32 on the trip there and 30 on the way back. I was getting 42-45mpg around town before. So here is my question: Do I need better air cleaners that will let more air in now that my exaust breathes better or could this be a simple maintanence problem such as needing new spark plugs? Also, am I riding too fast and causing my bike to be outside the power-band creating poor gas mileage? Any and all input is welcomed. Confused, Bubba:confused24:
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From a former article & thread; someone needs to properly claim the work, as I didn't save any names. Sorry. EDB I thought I'd share the Carb Synch Tool that I made for about $15.00. It uses 3/16 inch ID Vinyl tubing mounted to a board with coaxial antenna lead fasteners and is held upright by a tamping tool. It is charged with Transmission Fluid so that both lines are level with each other. Works just fine and is CHEAP to build. Those are two separate pieces of 3/16 inch ID vinyl tubing that I bought at a hardware store. I made the loops at the bottom as gentle as I could to prevent pinching. The ends of one hose connects to Carbs 1 & 2 and the other hose connects to carbs 3 & 4. I synch carb 1 to 2 while reading that hose, then 4 to 3 while reading the other hose, then carb 2 to 3 while reading those hoses. There is minimal pulsation (bounce). it is about 4 feet tall. The first time I tried it I used it on my Virago and the Synch was so far off that I had to keep killing the engine before the fluid was sucked into the carbs. I was finally able to get the Synch screw adjusted enough so that I could let the bike keep running while I finished the Synching. if a pair of carbs are so out of balance to each other, that one of them could initially try to suck the fluid out, so you would have to quickly kill the engine and make an adjustment, and then restart the engine to see if the adjustment helped or worsened the condition. The start-kill-adjust sequence may have to be repeated several times before you can let the engine stay running while you fine-tune the balance. Boilerman said that the hose he used for one loop was about 20'. After using 8' (4' x 2) for the board, that leaves 12' (6' on each end) to connect to the bike. About 2 1/2' gets it from the top of the board down to the carb level, then another 1 1/2' to the carb on the other side of the bike. I was happy to see your design for the carb synch tool! I work for a hospital. On my area of the hospital, they throw away oxygen hose all the time. A lot of it is 25 feet long. I took a walking stick I have, taped up the oxygen hose, which to my delight is 3/16 ID and filled about two feet of the hose with motor oil. It took a while to get all the bubbles out, but I had a slow pulling fluid that was easy to work with. I synched 1 and 2, then had a shock to see that 3 and 4 were so out compared to 2. I am slow, so it took me over an hour to get it all synched. Now the bike starts quickly and doesn't sound like a Cushman Scooter! THANK YOU for the picture example so I could copy the method. I will be reverting my walking stick back to it's original use! The money I saved helps me to afford the reason I bought the bike. I figure I have saved myself over 500 dollars with everything I have gleaned from this site in only 2 weeks. Okay I know I where glasses but these are for seeing distance and I do not wear bifocals. But where is the last screw for syncing cylinders 2 to 3. I found the others two but not this one. Do you have to lift the tank to get at it. ? I tried taking the rubber hoses off the other night to start this job but they are stuck on big time, so I would assume this has not been done in a while or at all. (looking forward to seeing the readings). Watched Don sync a 2nd Gen last year at Vogel and you don't have to remove anything. Screw is a little hard to locate. The left rear carb is # 1 Left front is #2 Right rear is #3 Right front is#4 as you are sitting on bike. Between 1 and 2 there is only one screw. You adjust these two first and then adjust 3 and 4 to them. So there are only three screws. I think it is kind of up under the edge of the tank. You have to bend over quite a bit to see it. I assume you found the one on the left side near the choke knob. The other two ore accessed from the right side. One is easy to get at between the two right side carbs (approximately the same location as the one on the left side). The last one is between the left two carbs, but points to the right. You need a LONG Phillips screwdriver to reach it from the right side. You will probably need to poke the screwdriver through the carb linkages just under the tank edge to get the right angle. The screw for 1 & 2 you need a long phillips screwdriver and acess from right side. 3 & 4 is also a phillips and is right between the carbs on right side of bike. The screw to sync left carbs to right carbs is just above the choke on left side and is a Slotted screw. Not an ice pick, but a flat blade screwdriver with a very thin head. Get the screwdriver between the end of the hose and the carb, and PUSH the hose. Which screw can't you find? Did you find the one that you get to from the left side, up above the choke knob? It has a hex head, with a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. The head is pointed down slightly, so you have to get your head below the level of the choke knob and look up. It's the only slotted hex head screw in that area. It syncs the left side to the right side. Or if you like, it syncs #1 and #2, to #3 and #4.
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The ones that hook to the vacuum ports on the carb boots at cylinders 2 and 3 and go up above the carbs. Where do they go and what are they for? -
ok I've been looking around for a conversion kit. I've determined that my carbs need rebuilding badly and a buddy told me they make an adapter kit for the V-Max to replace the stock carbs with the holly four barrel. its primarily used when supercharging the v-max but i dont want to supercharge my venture just be able to maintain 65 mph on the interstate. has anyone seen a place that sells a holly or eddlebrock kit for the V4? Or does anyone know a good place to find a carb kit for the ventures?
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A Carb-Rebuild is already being performed on my bike, but I ran across some info on doing it myself - in the event that such work is warranted in the future. I thought that the instructions were very clearly laid out, and that it might help some of us, here, who are not as knowledgeable about this as most of the others are. From what I've gathered, this instructional article is referencing 'Honda' carbs, but (and I could be wrong) it is my way of thinking that motorcycle carbs are basically the same - and that they are all dealt with it, primarily, in the same manner. If it can help someone - here is the link: http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rcarbs.html
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I have a 06 RSTD. I installed a set of mufflers from Barons, plugged off the AIS system, balanced the carbs. Barons said i don't have to rejet the carbs. I am still getting some popping on deceleration. Any suggestions?
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For a while now have had a skip at very light throttle, such as running at 40 mph on flat ground in 5th gear. And, as soon as I gave it any throttle, the skip went away. I have been thru the carbs, cleaned the pilot jets, synced them and replaced the plugs. This past week, I replaced the carb rubber manifold boots the carbs set on. Mine did have some obvious external cracks and the ones I used came off an 86 engine that I have and they look very good. Did not help a bit, ran exactly the same way. Yesterday morning I decided to remove all the YICS hoses and plug them. The two outer ones are easy to get off, but the two inner ones are hard to get to. I pulled one lose with a long pair of needle nose pliers, but on the other one, when I pulled it with the pliers, it tore into. This would have been easy with the carbs off, but I have already had the carbs off several times and I am tired of doing that. After I got the plugs on tight, I decided to replace the spark plugs again as I wanted to start fresh and to be able to try to get a reading on what the plugs looked like anyway. My son suggested I try the bike before I did anything else, but I did not want to get the engine hot. Well, when I pulled the back left cap off the plug, it came off the wire. Now these wires and caps were replaced a couple of years ago, so I did not expect them to be a problem. When I looked into the cap where the wire goes, there was green corrosion on the screw that screws into the wire. I cleaned it good and cut about a half inch off the wire and screwed it back together as far as it would go. It looked like the cap had not been screwed in good. I checked the other three caps and they looked good. I double checked the sync on the carbs and they were off some, so I adjusted them. I took the bike for a ride and it is running very good with no off idle skip. I am not sure whether the plugging of the YICS system was the problem or the cap problem, but at least it is running good again. RandyA -
Help, Is there anyone who can help me get my carbs in sync? I bought a 96 RSTD in April and it just doesn't seem to run right. In reading other posts, I think the carbs are out of sync. I had a sync device, but the mercury is no longer in the tubes. I'll buy breakfast (or any other meal) if there is someone who can give me a hand. Travel in SE Mich/NW Ohio is no problem as I'm out of school. Thanks in advance.
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well got the carbs put back togther, we tried to sync them, did the left 2 carbs first, went fine, then did the other side, soon as I started the bike she sucked the mercury out of the manometer, I never did like the thing, but now where would the mercury end up, in the carbs?, mabye drop the oil? Now I am going to jcwhitney to buy some vacume guages.
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Does anyone around the Chattanooga area have a sync tool? , and would you help me sync my carbs?....Fred
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New Guy Here from Knoxville My buddy and I both have pre-owned royal stars his being a 1997 tour classic with some popping and occasional backfire on deceleration issues. His carbs had been monkeyed with previously; pilot screws, float settings and throat sync all over the spectrum. Mine is a 99 with the standard gurgling sound and slight popping while decelerating that you get with most factory tuned royal stars and has yet to be fine tuned. Anyway, after learning what I could from you guys here at venture.org, I pulled my buddys carbs and cleaned all passages thouroughly, I set all float heights to 0.645 with calipers against base of float bowl, backed off throttle adjuster on carb #1 to close the throat and checked highest postion of throttle plate (closed) to bottom surface of throttle bore. I checked and rechecked measurement and kept getting conflicting measurements before I realized the hardend steel slide on my quality calipers would not measure the offset angle of throttle plate against the 90 degree angle of throttle bore. Remembering I had an old plastic caliper with a round pin slide I remeasured plate to bottom of bore facing with this tool and got consistent measurements every time and adjusted carb 2 exactly to carb 1, then #3, then #4. All throttle plates adjusted to 0.678. I adjusted pilot screws 2 1/4 turns out, put carbs , airbox, and tank on and... Whoops, I have a problem! Carb #3 popping thru exhaust while throttling off and snuffing type sounds while idling when warm. Pilot screw adjustment had no effect and exhaust gas was cool compared to carb 1,2, and 4. All other carbs and cylinders sounding perfect. This indicated to me that #3 was running very rich. After taking carbs off several times to see what the problem was and rechecking every measurement, my buddy and I devised a wooden jig to re-check float levels with clear plastic tubing with carbs fully assembled leveled and plumbed, and then mounted jig in my vice and set the carbs on top. Guess what, No 3 carb float level measured 1/8 high, while all the rest measured exactly at bottom circumference of main diaphram cover ( which is where I wanted them - high for quick low end throttle response). I took a wild guess and lowered float #3 by 0.035 and rechecked float level with plastic tube gage and it came out exactly level with bottom of radius of diaphram bowl. Now, can someone tell me why this one float would measure 0.035 lower than the rest but gage equally level with the other floats with tube gage? Could it be that float seat is lower than the others? Could it be the float seat is turned in deeper in this one carb? At any rate, we put carbs, airbox and tank back on bike and cranked her up. My God, It Sounds so Good and So In Tune - no backfire and no poping, and no snuffing, sound - Time for a little road check! At constant throttle the bike seemed much quieter than before, but what was amazing was the smooth but powerful and instant throttle response and acceleration from closed throttle to open and every position inbetween. No lug, no lag or hesitation whatsoever. We hit a long stretch of sweepers and mild twistys where I could keep power up in third and fourth gears, while mainly using engine deceleration for braking and all we could hear, other than that wonderful throaty whumping sound, while accelerating out of curve, was a corresponding cooking sound, kind of like hot coffee percolating fast with an underlying boiling sound while decelerating into it. And last but not least; Zero, pops, cracks, sniffles, or snuffles while riding for an hour and a half. We'll check the tuning with vacuum gage and tachometer next week but he and I agree, we'd be hard pressed to change a single thing.
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I have been using Motion Pro carb stick for several years and had no trouble syncing the carbs. The last two times I ha ve tried to sync the carbs I could not even get close. Today the mercury was sucked up into the carbs twice at idle. Have sprayed the carb boots with WD40 and it didn't make any difference in idle. Anyone have andy ideas. Also I replace all sparkplugs. Gene Weir:confused24:
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91 1300 has an idle "chuff' and engine chugs below 2500 enough to rattle cowling in high gear roll ons below 50 mph, then smoothly runs like bat from you no where pulling hard. This thing shakes like my Electra Glide in that rpm range and speed. Also backfires coming down from 5000 rpm now, maybe not related. Carbs synched and inspected, diaphrams replaced, valves were tight so adjusted, compressions ok, NGK wires, shaft drive good, Does it in all gears, is not intermittent in that range, worse of course in 5th at low speed. Has 96k and has been well cared for unitl last couple years hardly ridden. Did both Sea foam and Ring free shock treats, not sure if work on carbs and valves helped or was the treatment, but is better, cleans up at 2500 now rather than 3100. Local gurus telling me the 1300xvd sometimes did this to the point when they were bought new, 1 customer in 4 complained about it, but not all have the characteristic, also some later RSV also have the tendency. Supposedly once the 1200 was punched out, this became an unforeseen draw back on some. Does any of this sound correct? Running out of options and expertise locally. You wonderful folks are my last hope.
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For the past few weeks my RSTD has been running a bit rough...I was getting a bit more vibration in my grips and floorboards...a few more backfires (I already plugged my AIS)...and so I ordered the Morgan Carbtune. Well it arrived last Friday...but alas...I fell off a ladder at home Saturday morning and have been crawling into work and around the house ever since. Well today on the way home from work I decided enough is enough. After I got home I got the Carbtune out...hooked it up...synched carbs 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 2 & 3 and guess what? Now it runs like a champ! The increased vibrations are gone...no more backfire...and she screams when I punch the throttle in overdrive once again. What a great tool...I highly recommend this to anyone with a Venture or RSTD...it truly is a piece of cake to do once you know where the three screws are and the number order of the carbs. The first two synchs (carb 1 to 2) and (carb 3 to 4) are adjusted with a phillips head screw driver from the right side of the bike (right side when when you are in the saddle). The last synch screw is a flat head screw that is accessed from the left side of the bike and is up to the right of the choke pull button on the left. I am sure someone will post pictures of these screws and this will help. The screw to synch carbs 1 and 2 is accessed on the right side of the bike but it is all the way on the left side of the bike...you have to go through the "V" to get to it...and it underneath the choke button on the left hand side...again...you can only get to this screw from the right hand side of the bike. Here I used a 20" Phillips #2 and had no trouble reaching it and then reading the carbtune gauge (which was attached to my right handlebar). The screw for the next synch (carb 3 and 4) is also on the right side of the bike and is found a little up above and to the right of the spring for the carbs. Here, believe it or not, I also used the long phillips screwdriver but my hands were on the metal shaft of the driver and not on the handle of the screwdriver. Again...had no problem finding, adjusting, or viewing the carbtune gauge. Finally...the last synch is betweed carbs 2 & 3...and that screw is accessed from the left hand side of the bike and is found above and to the right of the actual choke button. Here you need a flat head screwdriver. I already knew my idle was good...so I just jumped into the synching proceedure. When I took the bike out for a test run after she cooled down and I reattached everything...I simply could not believe the difference. What a tool...after 2 to 3 tuneups...I would have to say the tool will pay for itself. Later...
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I have a friend with three thats right three 1970's vintage 750 Kawasaki triples. Two of them are together, one with an expansion chamber, and one basket case. The bikes have been setting up for a number of years. Any questions about where to start on getting one or more running? I'm thinking that the seals most likely need replacing, carb boots could be cracked and leaking. Cleaning the carbs. Draining, inspecting and cleaning the gas and oil tanks. Replacement of plugs etc. We just don't want to get one of them started and discover the hard way that there is an air leak. Any other suggestions?
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While at Vogal, I had my carbs synced by the professionals and it ran better and smoother on the hand grips. But, I knew my carbs needed to have the air mixture setting adjusted because at idle the richness would bring tears to your eyes. Without starting the bike, I started around the carbs and found two was about two turns out and one about one turn out. When I got to the front carb on the right side, I tried to turn it and it was pretty tight, but moved a little. When I bottomed out, it would not move and in the process of trying to make it move, I broke off the two raised edges that are on each side of the slot, therefore no more slot. I have another set of carbs I bought cheap off ebay, so I knew at worst, it would take pulling the carbs off and breaking them apart and cleaning them all and putting a spare on. So, if I really screwed the carb up on the bike, it would be ok. What I ended up doing was I used a drill bit that fit the hole with minimal slop and drilled a dimple in the head of the screw. I then used a small drill bit that fit the easyout, or screw extractor as some would know. I was able to drill deep enough to get a hole without drilling so deep that I drilled to where it shanked down to the step area. By tapping the easyout and seating it, I was able to unscrew the adjustment screw. I used a piece of rubber hose on my shopvac to pull out any debris. I was then able to put in one of the spare mixture screws from the other carbs and I was back in business. I then hooked up my son's carb syncing outfit and synced them myself. It took a few minutes, but I got them all the same. Now the bike is again running good and don't bring you to tears when idleing. randya
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Hi as a new/old member after the crash of august I would like someones opinion. I have added Harley screaming eagle pipes to my Tour delux plus modified the air box and it is now poping and banging. The queastion is does anyone have an idea what size jets I need to start with on rejetting my carbs.
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This must not be much of an issue, as I haven't read any previous posts on the subject. For me though synchronizing the carbs has been a little difficult, as I didn't have a screwdriver quite long enough to reach the 1-2 sync screw and would always burn my knuckles. I was delighted to find a long phillips screwdriver today at Harbor Freight. It came paired with a straight one of the same length. They are item number 34253 in the HF store (you won't find them online, at least not today). For five bucks I bought two 24 inch long screwdrivers. Now I won't be burning my knuckles on the engine when I sync my carbs with a screwdriver that is almost to short. Still have to figure out what to do with that straight blade 24" long screwdriver...?
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I "got the opportunity" so decided I would share... Do you have the carbs off? There's an easy way and a tough way to get the throttle and choke cables off. I finally found the easy way... The carb assembly also needs some "proper" persuasion to get up off their mount boots! Remove the air cleaner... there's a small hose at the front bottom... disconnect it at the air box. There's a large hose at the bottom, rear, center... disconnect it at the ENGINE... this lets you use the hose as a guide when you put it back (plus you can't get to the rear bottom of the air box when it's going back together. Loosen the four rubber boot clamps below the carbs and now it's time to work these up. They don't want to because it's a tight fit but work one side up a bit and then do the other until you have them up. I used two pieces of hardwood to pry the carbs up... one side a bit at a time. Then you pull the carbs a bit out the left side. Run the throttle adjust nut at the handlebar in to get some free cable. Loosen the adjustment coupler right at the carb all the way. Pull THAT cable housing up from the carb cable holder and slide the cable through the slot in the carb mounted holder... there's just enough slack to get it out of the holder! Then you can tip the carbs to see how to disconnect it. Now you can roll the carbs OPEN and get the takeup cable off. The choke is easy, loosen the clamp and slide the cable free. I had three mixture adjust screws set at about 2.5 turns out from bottom and a forth was frozen. I sprayed penetrant spray and over a day worked it in and out a bit at a time... I think the magic setting is 2 to 2.5 turns out from a CAREFULLY bottomed position. More on this later. Before you break the 4 carb assembly apart, make a little drawing of the choke linkage layout and note the spacers and washers on the choke coupling arms. The throttle couplers are straight forward, front and back halves are coupled by a plate and spring on the "balance adjusters", left and right halves are held by a clip-ringed coupling plate. The 4 carb assembly is held together by 16 large (5mm, I think) phillips head screws. These are going to be impossible to almost welded and will round off and make you invent dirty words unless you have the magic thing... the absolute right tool!!! Don't waste time, get one! I used a VERY large phillips bit (from an impact wrench set) that fits "PERFECT" and mounts into a regular socket... mounted on a regular ratchet. This gives you the leverage of the ratchet but you HAVE to have a large bit that fits TIGHT... Take the assembly to the parts shop if in doubt... you'll love me if you do... you'll have lots of new words if you don't. I threw these screws away when I got them out and replaced them with allen bolts from True Value ($4.00, but you'll never mess them up again!!!) Don't even think of using an impact to get these out... you'll break the fragile carb body and be back to inventing dirty words. It's real handy to have a friend hold the carbs on the bench while you break the bolts free. (Did I mention they were tight???) Any good carb cleaner should work fine. It's a question of aggressiveness and preference. Seafoam is good stuff, not terribly aggressive but safe and does a good job with time... you would probably want to soak overnight and follow with a really good scrubbing of parts. B-12 is MUCH more aggressive and (as such) needs more care and attention. I don't think Seafoam eats rubber... I KNOW B-12 WILL. I chose Berrymans so I wasn't waiting so long. It's a toss up to what you like. I didn't want to by 5 gallons of something to allow dipping all 4 carbs and I don't like to have too many "parts" floating around so I planned on doing each carb, one at a time. I used a cut down, lower 2/3s of an anti-freeze bottle as a "dip tank"... it JUST fits one carb body and two pints of cleaner just about cover the carb. You might want to buy three pints so that when you pull one carb, you can drain back most of the cleaner and trash the last bit that has all the dirty junk. I threw in the 5 jets for THAT carb at the same time... if in doubt, make a little diagram of each jet's size and it's location. I cleaned one carb at a time so nothing got mixed up and I could inspect each one on their own. Plus my work area is rather small. Now we have a new, big screw driver bit and four carbs laying on the bench... that bit is going to come in handy for breaking apart the covers! If you still have one "pinned, internal star" screw in each diaphragm cover... buy that tool at the parts store (common tool) and those screws throw them away... it's not worth the hassle... replace all 16 (four per carb) with allen bolts or buy four replacement screws. I used small vice grip pliers rather than buy the tool! It really buggers up the head but... who cares? I WAS a bit worried about buggering one up and still not able to get it out... I later found the right tool was cheap and readily available... I was first "told" it was a "special dealer tool"... grrrrr! Each choke slide can be "overhauled" in-place. Now is a good time as the carb body gives you leverage to get the big nut off. The slide cover nut just unscrews and out comes a spring and brass plunger, check the large brass plunger and spring, grease and reassemble. Then pull the screws holding the choke body to the carb and set aside. The deceleration pump (other side of the carb body) has a spring and diaphragm like a small version of the main diaphragms. These need to be pulled and inspected. The diaphragm can have small tears around the outside rim or maybe a pinhole that would need repaired. They don't "bounce" like the intake slides, they are vacuum driven to smooth sudden deceleration so they are basically set to "trip" open on activation. Clean and set these aside. On top, just inside the intake barrel, is a fixed, small orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed carefully. I found a small, pointed art brush was perfect. Inside the carb diaphragm cover is a large spring and diaphragm assembly, pull and set aside. Inside that carb cavity is a large orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed... There's also a small O-ring at the bottom edge that the diaphragm cover seals ... pull and set aside. Inside the float chamber area, pull the float and float valve. Unscrew the large brass screw (and washer) running through the main jet body... this holds the diaphragm needle housing. Pull the main jet body and pull it's three jets... the long, metering jet inside the middle tube (a large pierced tube looking thing), main jet on side and a small orifice jet in the left tube... this one needs care in cleaning. Be careful with the rubber plugs... they bounce real well if dropped and important that they fit tight when you reassemble!!! The diaphragm needle housing (large brass shaft) can now slide out through the center of the carb body... note that there's an O-ring under the main jet body block that slides over this shaft. Set everything aside with the jets and needle housing to end up in the soaker with the carb body. Ease the rubber drain hoses off the plastic barb very carefully and set aside. The carbs come with a brass sleeve in the carb body that keeps the idle mixture screws "captive" Carefully use a progressively larger drill and drill these out. Use air or ANYTHING to get all those brass filings out. NOW pull the idle mixture jets, spring, washer and O-ring. Use a small wire with a hook on the tip to pull the washer and o-ring if needed. Now go back and get the REST of the metal filings you missed! The carb bodies and jets are now ready to dip. B-12 liquid and spray are good cleaners for disassembly... do NOT use them on assemblies or on a running bike. It's too aggressive and can mess up rubber parts. For regular cleaning I use PJ carb cleaner... it's safer and also it's flammable so it actually HELPS a running engine (it surges like you sprayed ether!) where B-12 isn't and will want to kill the engine! Did I mention it kills rubber parts? "The factory-set needle-valve screw..."??? These are very fragile, tapered metering jets. I spray B-12 on a clean rag and buff these tapers and the main jets. They should be smooth and clean. Any nicks or scrapes and they are trash. The idle mixture screws on ANY carb are set by, very carefully, running them IN so they gently seat and then count the turns OUT from there. I think factory is right around 2 turns out. If you get heavy handed and screw them in hard, you damage the needle seat and get to replace that carb!!! It's a spring loaded screw... use a tight fitting flat blade screwdriver and ease then in. If in doubt... run them in and out a bit to clean the threads and get a better 'FEEL" for them bottoming. For repairing the pinholes in the main diaphragms, I was told to buy some Yamabond 4 It's put on very thin with a toothpick on the "worn spots".... I've only recently put the carbs back on and have run a few tanks through but when I repulled the diaphragms the stuff was exactly like when I put them in. This yamabond stuff is fairly thin and is perfect for this apparently and is also a great gasket seal but just use a tiny bit... Even better is to buy new ones! Oh yeah... don't mess with "close" O-rings... if they don't measure perfect or just a hair big... walk away! There's lots of sources... Napa didn't carry small ones but Kragen did. Napa usually has those odd parts that you need.
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