saddlebum

Good to know @Dano

Bubbling is not a good sign, you are boiling your battery you may want to check your fluid level. This is usually an indication that you are over charging your battery (even at two amps the charger could be putting out too much voltage for the battery). The other cause of a boiling battery is that it is just no good, possibly internally shorted out due to sediment build up in the battery ( if it is just a lead acid battery you could try dropping an aspirin in each cell, Its an old trick but it does sometimes work I once got an extra year out of a car battery with this trick).

Before I got the battery tender I used a trickle charger in conjunction with a timer switch. I set the timer to turn the charger on for two hours every day, (i never remove the battery) cover the bike (it sits outside all winter) and left it until spring . Then when I got the 1.25 battery tender I just plug it into the bike and again forget about it until spring. Come spring the bike fired right up and the battery worked great. Not sure how old that battery was before I replaced it with the DEKA battery as it was in the bike when I bought it but I still got three years out of it plus whatever was on it prior my purchasing the bike. This is year 7 on my DECKA AGM battery and it is still working great. I still have never removed the battery and the bike still sits out under cover all winter hooked up to the battery tender, so I would say IMHO that its not necessary to remove it. you may however in the case of a regular lead acid battery want to check the water level every once in a while, though I must admit I never have.

Hope all works out.

When it comes to brake hoses I don't mess around. I had one aftermarket SS hose burst on me during a brake application. So my advice cheap out somewhere else but not on brake hoses. Nothing like loosing your brakes on a steep down hill sharp bend to drive that point home. I used to have a great head of hair until that happened.

This is very true and I myself have happily dealt with him on several occasions. However, though I may be wrong, I was under the impression that he only provided the de-link kits for !st Gens and he out sourced the manufacturing of the lines he used to put together these kits. It had not occurred to me that he may be able to provide custom lines for anything else. I guess this is were @skydoc_17should chime in and enlighten us or maybe just me.

Welcome to the funny farm, You will pretty much find anything you need to know here and the help is always in big supply.

Welcome to the forum. It always good to see another Ontario rider join the nut house.

I have used a local shop by simply taking my old hoses in and having them make matching hoses out of stainless and the pricing was less than OEM. They have also made custom hoses for me from detailed drawings and spec's that I have provided. I would like to point out It is important to keep in mind that both the shop and their equipment must be government certified to make brake hoses. Not all shops equipped to make hydraulic hose are fully certified to make up brake hoses. Also check out some of the automotive performance shops, some of them are either certified or know of a place that is certified to make up stainless brake hoses. Some hose specialty shops may be certified or be able to refer you to a shop that is.

Not sure if this was already mentioned earlier or not but Don't forget to check the removable plug boots. Many have replaced TDI's and coils only to find the plug boots were faulty. If you look close you can see that the internal parts of the OEM plug boots can be removed, inspected and cleaned on the 1st and 2nd gens. They can get corroded inside which cause them to fail.

Kind of brings you back to those multiple choice questions were the old saying is the first guess is usually the right guess. Plus we all got to put our heads together and hone our diagnostic skills. Lastly glad you found the issue.

I always blame my spelling or grammar errors on a defective keyboard.

Well at least you got out and summers not over yet.

Is the bike handling properly now?

When did you go back to a Harley. Thought you had a 3rd gen

That,s great news hopefully the rest of the summer will be a breeze..........in your hair

You do have a valid point but in my remarks, I (A) am taking the assumption that these items have already been checked and (B) the steps I am suggesting are done with the engine shut off which takes any electrical issues out of the equation and concentrates on the mechanical side of things.

Ok so you say the wheel turns in neutral. When it turns does it feel relatively smooth with no odd noises. If so than I would say the final drive. drive shaft, u-joints and rest of parts in the parts breakdown Marcal posted are OK. With it in gear can you still turn the wheel with the clutch pulled in? from your description I am thinking you cannot, so my next move would be to check clutch operation. Start by making sure there is no air in the system. Then check to see if the master is actually functioning properly. It could be bypassing internally and not applying pressure to the slave. Check to see if you are loosing clutch fluid. The slave could be leaking internally and loosing fluid. Drain engine oil into a clean container. Does the oil look normal or is there metal in the oil? Remove the clutch cover so you can observe the clutch while actuating the clutch lever. you should see movement between the discs. If not then you will have to see why. Remove the Clutch. with the clutch removed and transmission in gear does the wheel now turn or is it still locked up. If still locked up you may have to pull engine and get into the transmission to see what is going on. Keep in mind this is all couch technique diagnostics If I had the bike in front of me I might take a different approach.

the rear brake is were I would start as well specially since it only locks when you pull the clutch in but will turn when you release the clutch and apply power. Generally if it locks up due to a drive line or transmission failure it stays locked up and whether the clutch is in or out would not make a difference.

👍

Cannot tell by pic which way oil seal was facing. The part in pic one is one of two pieces making up the water pump seal, the wide flange towards the pumps impeller. the second part of the W/P seal sits between the impeller and the flange of this part. The lip on the oil seal should be facing the engine and away from the water pump. This is to keep oil from leaking out through the weep hole.

The JIS japanese version of the philips screwdriver made by Vessel and available through Amazon is the best screw driver I found for the screws on these bikes the flute tapers and angles between the japanese (JIS) screws and the philips differ slightly and is why a normal philips screwvdriver will cam out so easily. The (JIS) even works better on the philips screws than the philps screw driver does. Thier grey handled impacta line is great for breaking loose tight screws without rounding them out. FROM AMAZON CANADA. https://www.amazon.ca/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=vessel+jis+screwdriver&qid=1624197256&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&ref=nb_sb_noss ------------------------------------------------------ FROM AMAZON USA. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197497&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197633&sr=8-16

Is there a reward. I am not currantly working and could use the bounty money. Nothing personal @videoarizona

Location has an effect as well. In Ontario there is a 2 Km difference between my GPS and my speedometer. In Nova scotia they read identical.

He is talking about the bolt that holds the line to master cylinder. This type of through fitting is often reffered to as a banjo fitting and the bolt therefore referred to as a banjo bolt.