saddlebum

Welcome to the site and yes we are extremely active both technically and socially, though the covid thing has slowed things down a bit.

That's what most of us do on the 1st gens and so far I have not known it to be an issue.

Generally speaking total advance is usually base timing plus advance timing.

I think a hard pull up hill maybe even lugging it in higher gear while doing would be a good test for ping. If you can lug up hill in too high a gear and get no ping I would say you can cross ping off your concern list. Also I am not sure how much Dingy stays in touch with this site anymore but you may find him on one of the V-Max sites.

No one said just cause yu paid the $12 bucks that ya had to go gettin and swallerin advice from the rest of us crazies

You could, and I am just going off the top of my head here without studying the bikes schematics, I would say you would need two relays one for each light ( Left and right ) since you do not want to interfere with normal signal function. Cut the wire to the left signal light. Connect the wire coming from the the light to terminal 30 and the other wire to terminal 87a. . (which is NC) Now do the same thing with the second relay and the right signal light. At this point the signal lights should work as normal again. Next, tap into the red wire from the back off module and run to terminals 87 of both relays. Connect terminals 85 of both relays to ground Connect terminals 86 of both relays to either the yellow wire of the back off module or the same terminal on the optional switch the yellow wire is connected to. this should keep the front signals operating as normal when the optional switch is off but switch the lights over to the back off module when the optional switch is on.

I like to start with a cold engine and just use my hand to see how quickly each pipe warms up initially then follow up with a temp gun. BTW I noticed your using red or pink coolant just make sure it is not DEXCOOL which was designed for Certain GM engines. In other engines it has been known to be very unkind to head gaskets.

Its not uncommon to see a build up of pressure with the rad cap off because you are lowering the boiling point when you remove the pressure cap. Think about the times you fill a cooling system then run it without the cap usually end up with a sudden shower. That,s not to say that maybe there is not a bit too much bubbling going on there but also not that it particularly is an issue either. With the coolant lowered and temperature rising that bubbling could just be due to expansion of both air and coolant in the rad. With the amount bubbling through the solution with out changing colour however I would say there are no combustion gases entering the rad. The fluid is very sensitive and changes colour very easily if there is any combustion gas existing. Matter of fact we would take a breath sample with it to see if the fluid was still good.

Here is everything I have on it and I believe it covers 83 - 89. @dingy was the one I got all my info and help from. He seems to be playing with it all the time. Also @Jayceesfollymay have something to add as I believe he is running it on his 89 Aftermarket TCI available.docx Change to different program in TCI.pdf Ignitech Venture TCI Installation Instructions.pdf Jim Crane 8-23-14.ign Loading dwell change into TCI-1.pdf Loading program change into TCI.pdf manual_sparker_tcip4_v80_en.pdf

Yes @Shaw as Marcarl say's leave it, that is just the hydro-static effect of the oil in the crankcase driving the gear and is perfectly normal. Its with the bike sitting on the ground and wanting to go forward on you even with the clutch pulled in when you want to start looking at things.

Yes when he ranted at me that day I met him He had plenty to say about Don that was not exactly flattering and how the rest of us were a bunch of suckers. That's when I told him I that I strongly disagreed with him and was more than happy to pay my annual dues, then turned and walked out. I saw no point in standing there in the middle of Tim Horton's having a strong discussion with someone it was obvious could not be reasoned with. What gets me is this was so many years ago and to hear today that he is still carrying on about this blows my mind.

Thanks for covering for me @Marcarl

When I rebuilt my carbs I could not source them any where so I left them in. I even tried going by using the bore and shaft dimensions and tried to get them from seal manufactures like Chicago Rawhide and national etc.

Now all you need is some hose an electric fuel pump and changeover switch.

If I am not mistaken I think I know who the guy is. I ran into him one time while out riding and noticing he rode a venture I struck up what i intended to be a friendly conversation. It went fine until I mentioned Venture rider,, Man did I start getting an ear full and could not get out of there fast enough. I guess he was a member while we were a free member ship and I do remember chatting with him on the site a few times and for all intents and purposes he was an OK guy. But I guess he took a real offense when the dues were implemented and had no problem laying a supersize rant on me. I have since learned he has not let up and continues to bash Venture Rider when ever and were ever he can. Me I rather pay the $12.00 than put up with a bunch of advertising plus Don puts a lot of work into this site to keep things going as smoothly as possible.

For cry'n out loud get you mind out-a-da-keg

I came up with the idea some years ago after getting tired of chasing stuff across the floor. As far as using a spray 1st with a straw, I should have suggested that as well as I too often do that (my Bad) My personal preference for that is ACF50 https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html available through amazon, aircraft spruce and many motorcycle dealers.

I while back there was a thread revolving around carriyng spare fuel. I was watching itch boots when I noticed she is using bag type fuel bladders during her currant trip through South Africa, so I did some on line searches and found some interesting info. Here are two links to two of the site I found. Thought it very interesting. Nice thing is you can nicely back them away when empty yet still have them on hand should you suddenly need them to go for fuel. https://www.giantloopmoto.com/product/gas-bag-fuel-safe-bladder/ https://www.frontaer.com/extra-motorcycle-fuel-tanks/

So what your saying is your hijacking the thread into a discussion about how to straighten the curls out of ones hair But since you and Rio share the same wiry hair and him being a terrier He can probably tell you it could be an exercise in futility

@Bono The speed sensing switch is a leaf switch built into the instrument panel back cover. With the speedometer assembly installed in the cluster this switch sits close to the spinning magnet within the speedometer head where the cable connects to the speedometer. The rotating speed of the magnet is what triggers the switch. You can test it by disconnecting the related connectors and hooking an ohmmeter to the wires ( it should be the white/green wire in one plug and the black wire in the other plug see pics ). With the front wheel off the ground spin the wheel and watch the ohmmeter for a change or disconnect the cable at the wheel and use a variable speed drill Make sure the drill is spinning in the right direction. Now I cannot be sure if this applies to both MK-1 and 2 or only to MK-2

It only got great after a certain someone and her cheese cakes moved down there

Ok lets start with A) It has nothing to do with the intercom but to get full function you need a headset or at the very least a mic attached to the connector by the fuel tank cover or the passenger hook. B) Without a head set or mike you can still monitor calls or conversations within the channel you are set on you just cannot reply. So now as far as your issue goes I would begin with carefully removing, taking apart and cleaning the switch assembly on the left handlebar. sometimes the transmit switch gets sticky or dirty and this leaves the CB confused as to whether it should be in transmit mode or receive mode. When I say take apart carefully it is because the parts inside are small and springy and would love to disappear into the parallel universe only to re-appear weeks or months later after you scrambled to buy beg or steal replacement pieces. I often park the bike on a thick old blanket or sleeping bag to eliminate the bounce away across the floor factor. If this does not solve the issue than dig in and check all connectors related to the CB for bad or dirty connections. Finally if still not resolved try another CB possibly borrow one if you can if that solves the issue than replace it.

If you do this with the bike on the side stand you normally do not need to drain the oil. You may loose a small amount depending on the lean of the bike but it is usually a barely noticeable amount. With regards to the markings on the clutch basket they seem to only apply to using the OEM clutch pack which has a marking on one tab of each disc to align with the marking on the basket. You can ignore the markings when using The Barnett clutch pack.