saddlebum

Sometimers kicked in again huh!

I keep trying to tell ya @Marcarlyou got to put the kick stand down before you walk away from the bike. Course now that you got a two wheeler with a rolling kick stand guess you don't need to worry about it no more.

To start with its EH not Eh and at least you got a whole year to figure out just how YA'LL gonna make fun of us Kanuckians (good luck with that) Keeping in mind @BIG TOMhas tried for years and failed.

Yes some lucky guys can have wives that can be like that !

I am incline to agree with djh3, the likely cause could be the handlebar switch it may just need a good cleaning due to a build up of corrosion and wear metal in the swich. You might accomplish this by spraying with WD 40, contact cleaner or my personal favorite ACF-50, by shoving the straw into were ever you can and give it a good flushing spray. If that doesn't solve it then then pull the switch apart (put the bike on an old carpet or thick blanket so if any of the small piece drop out they wont bounce over into you neighbors uncut lawn. Watch for little springy thingy's that love any opportunity to launch into orbit. you may find a build up of crud or even a broken piece that is causing your problem.

So true or the ability to walk away and give the steam build up in your head a chance to blow off before you turn a minor set back into a major disaster. Then come back after a few beers ......I mean after you cool down. My wife can sometimes be a savior here. When she sees I am starting to ride the edge, she will suddenly call me in for coffee and cake or pie (sorry no beer this time) than as we sit down she will begin to chatter away like a blue jay about anything that does not revolve around bikes or whatever I am working on and before you know it I am back in the garage with a better frame of mind.

Lots of media you start with friends and then start loosing them. Here you start with few or no friends and gain many.

Had Kury's with extensions and longhorns on the bike for 14 years and the only missing chrome is where they scraped the road during sharp turns.

I like the idea and is something I will definitely be giving some serious thought too.

If you do not want to mark or drill your crash bars I find Kuryakyn is the way to go; and you can even mix and match individual components to create the setup that suits you. https://www.kuryakyn.com/category/42/highway-cruise-pegs https://www.kuryakyn.com/products/4029/offset-highway-pegs https://www.kuryakyn.com/category/20/clamps-mounts

That's why after years of experience I have come up with a series of steps to simplify conversions: A: Stop planning or thinking ( the second part of this step has gotten easier for me over the years ) B: Should step "A" not proceed as intended sit and drink a few beers ( as many as it takes ) until you get back on track with "A" C; Sit Back and let others do the conversions ( I find it produces less headaches ) this step may require a beer or 2 or ...... to make it more effective. D: This step is optional: While in step "C" Criticize heavily and don't forget to wear your couch potatoes badge to lend an air of officialness. (any shyness here can be overcome with the assistance of a few beers taken as needed) BTW would love to see some side picks.

Looks good from the front but whats with all the wires hanging off the side. You plan on going trolling

Not exactly. When bridging a bad section the voltmeter acts as a bypass or detour. The worse the connection or the higher the load placed on the circuit the higher the reading because more voltage is taking the detour. What you want to see is no volts at all in this type of test. Say you touch one test lead to the Batt post and one lead to the clamp or terminal on that post. With the circuit powered or loaded up and you see no voltage you know you have a perfect connection at the battery terminal. If there is a reading you have a bad connection and the higher the reading the worse the connection. Keep in mind the bigger the load on the circuit the higher the reading as well and the easier to find the bad connection. I sometimes add an old head lamp to the circuit to make this test more effective. An old fashioned test light used in place of the voltmeter will work to. No light circuit is good. Any light at all circuit is not good and the worse it is the brighter the light. Here again you would have to clean or repair the bad connection or faulty wire.

You will find this site becomes as much a family and friendship forum ( had to throw that second part in cuz not all family's get along ) as it is a motorcycle forum. That is why you will find members who started out owning Ventures but stayed even after switching machines to something other other than Ventures. Often times friendships get formed here on site that continue to grow off site. Now I will have to admit the jury is still out on @cowpucbut we are just such darned good folk we let him hang around anyway

So I assume Your handle has nothing to do with your cooking skills and pasta that tastes like burnt rubber.

Are you telling us you have a closed mind and it is hard to open

If I send you mine can you dry mine for me. My wife won't let me near anything in the kitchen.

After following Marcarl's steps then start again only this time leave the positive test lead connected on the battery and test along all your ground connections. If you see a sudden drop following Marcal's directions you have a bad connection or wire on the pos side. If you find a sudden drop in voltage following my directions then you have a bad connection or wire on the ground side. Also when you say "the same readings if tested using the inputs to each fuse." are saying the voltage before and after the fuse is the same or is it different? If the reading is different before the fuse from what you get after the fuse I would say the fuse connections are probably corroded and/or dirty. This is specially true if you still have the old glass fuses. the fuse retaining clips on these not only get corroded but they often get very weak making for a very poor connection to the fuse

Prayers on your behalf have been spoken. Best of luck in recuperating. Really sorry to hear you are going through this.

Try hitting it a couple times with the hammer like you're driving a nail in just not so hard that you're going to break something sometimes it will Jarr the threads and let it break loose. Even better if you have a brass punch to hold against it while you're hitting it with the hammer

Are you testing from the same ground point

When the engine is cold remove the rad cap and switch the valve to on then just let it sit for a bit. You may want to pinch the hose for the overflow so it does not drain all its coolant out. May not hurt to lower the rad level a bit but you do not need to drain it right down after letting it sit refill. turn the valve to off (for now leave the hose for the overflow pinched off or leave the over flow empty ) and warm the engine up to temp. If you watch the temp gauge you will see it slowly climb then make a sudden slight drop ( this when the thermostat opens ) Let it do this a couple times ( you will notice a smaller drop each time as the engine warms ). After a couple cycles shut down the engine and let it fully cool down. Once cooled down Remove the rad cap top up the rad and replace rad cap then un-pinch and/or top up the overflow tank to its cold level. This is a bit overkill but the surest way of making sure air is removed from the cooling system. Also if the bike is on the center stand while doing this tip the bike back so the front wheel is up and the back wheel down by either weighing or tying down the back of the bike. this makes the front of the bike the high point to which you want any air in the system to gravitate too.

And I will third it @Squidleyand many others like him Personify what this site is all about.

This is true for any repair shop. If the repair bill is going to exceed the resale value of the machine the shop is taking a chance on getting reimbursed for parts and labor. At the truck shop I work at we do not refuse any vehicle but we do inform the customer of the costs they could be running into and if those costs exceed the value of the vehicle the customer is given the option to refuse any further expense or to pay all or a percentage of the possible cost involved in advance, with the understanding that because it is an older machine that once we get into it other issues could crop up and we will do our best to keep them informed as we proceed should they wish to pull the plug at any given time.

Welcome to the site and yes we are extremely active both technically and socially, though the covid thing has slowed things down a bit.