saddlebum

You could replace the nut that holds the the main handle bar in the riser with a long nut like used to join lengths of threaded rod together and thread a ramm ball mount into the other end. Or if you have a drill press and a set of taps ( or better yet a metal lathe ) or access to to any of those items, you can easily make one up out of some round stock. Drill and tap 1/2 way through to M10X1.0 and drill and tap the other end to fit the stud on the threaded ball. Some size examples; https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?facets[part_type][]=Threaded Ball or choose from this assortment of mount options; https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size? https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?facets[mount_function][]=Mirror Post https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?

Did you check your bearings before putting it back together. Other than just plain old age, worn bearings are also a common cause of seal failure. Also be sure the is no groove on the wheel hub were the seal rides, or the new seal will fail. If there is, you can get repair sleeves for this. ordering is based on required hub diameter, and so as to give a friction fit during installation. They available in both metric and SAE and can be purchased through any automotive supplier ( Also commonly known as speedi sleeves ). If you do need to install one, coat the hub with a thin layer of Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant, then install the sleeve. The sleeve should com with a tin cup for installation. Use a piece of wood over the cup rather than hitting directly with a hammer and keep it square to the axle or you will distort the sleeve they are extremely thin, Use alcohol to clean up any residue. Also don't forget to leave the 4 drive tube nuts just loose enough to allow movement when you snug up the axle shaft. after snugging up the axle shaft tighten them up and finally fully torque up your axle shaft.

We even had an expert photographer with us ....Carl's better half (by far ) Marca who caught both our good sides in one pic .. @Marcarl is the one on the left.

Well that depends are you coming after me or will you be sending Eileen. I got a big back log of hugs to make up for due to covid

Mine expires in may so I will be renewing when the time comes. Can't leave all the fun for @XV1100SE

One of the common practices in using a car top carrier is to mount it on a trailer frame such as harbor freights. https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-capacity-40-12-in-x-48-in-utility-trailer-62645.html

I just use a couple short pieces of vacuum hose and jam either the ball from an old ball bearing I cut apart or a bucking rivet to plug the end. Just make sure the ball is big enough so as not to enter the tube. You can also cut the UN-threaded part of a bolt into tiny plugs. You should also be able to get caps from any automotive store as they are used on gas engines quite a bit.

That was my initial thought, the top ring to hoist up the hay and the bottom ring to be pulled on to release the hay but then when I looked at the size of it compared to the shoe in the picture its too small you would be forever hauling up hay.

A lot of the guys here just build one using a car top carrier or aluminum truck box. @Marcarlhas a real nice home built and if he is being in a sharing mood he may even show a picture of his. NIce thing about his is it is narrower and maybe a tad longer than most.

NOT everything.......I am still trying to find one that will help me understand my wife....

Funny you mention Quaker State. That is what this owner claimed to use QUOTE: "I don't understand it, I may not have changed my oil as often as I should (insert chuckle ) but I only ever used good Quaker state oil". I had a hard time holding back a big smirk. I would not use Quaker state on my wheel barrow. Any engine I ever pulled apart ( and that was a lot maybe up to 25 engines a year ) that was slugged up had been running Quaker State. When I was fleet manager for Beeline carrier's, which consisted of 300 trucks with Cat and Cummins diesels the Quaker State rep came in to see me about setting up a contract with them. We bought oil in bulk for the fleet 500 Can/gal equal to 600 us/gal at a time. My reply to him was no thank you the varnish content in their oil was too high. His reply was true Quaker had a little more varnish (insert chuckle ) than other oils but they actually have proven to reduce oil burning. I felt like say of course it did buy gumming everything up ( but I was nice and said I was more than happy with what we were using. My top choices for oil in those days was Shell Rotunda or Texaco Ursa.

There is a screen in the bottom of some dishwasher's and if not seated properly large portions of food sneak by and plug the hose. So may not be cascades fault. NO I am not a cascade rep. LOL

Check your clutch slave mounting as well you may have to remove that cover pictured in my previous post to get a better look at it but make sure you have a gasket on hand for both first to avoid downing your because you have to wait for a gasket.

I have to say for the most part I agree but there are times when I have found very beneficial. In my experience as a truck mechanic for 50 years in cases such as you mentioned the engines are so badly slugged up from lack of proper maintenance such as running far too long between oil changes that they were pretty well on the road to failure by then any way, so yes in cases such as those especially if it is an aggressive flushing formula there is the risk of this happening. But for most engines properly maintained and if only used on the rare occasion no harm should result. In the case of seafoam it is not aggressive at all and relatively safe. BTW I once pulled an oil pan off a truck were the sludge was an inch think and the only place there was no sludge was a small valley formed around the oil pump pickup screen. It was so unbeleivable I had to call the rest of the shop over to see it.

@skydoc_17Something tells me you may have the answer.

Something I forgot about until tonight while working on the bike. The transmission shaft cover on the left side is held on with a bunch of Allen head bolts. The bottom one has a copper washer and when you remove that bolt an extra 1/2 cup of oil drains out. If I being fussy with my oil change I will remove this bolt to drain the extra oil but most times I don't bother and that is why I probably didn't think to mention it earlier.

I do not generally worry much about it as you will never get all the dirty oil out of the engine since there are areas where oil collects and mixes with the new oil once you start the the bike. However if you drain the oil and remove the filter while it is hot and then leave it sit with the plug out and filter off until it stops dripping you tend to drain more of the old oil out plus sediment which would still be suspended in the oil. If the the bike is cold or has sat for a bit a certain amount of the suspended sediment in the oil will settle to the bottom and not drain out with the oil. Also make sure the bike is upright and sitting so there is good flow in the direction of the oil plug. If you you really want to give it a good clean add a bottle of seafoam to a full crankcase of oil and let it idle for 10 to 20 min (DO NOT RUN HIGHER THAN IDLE) then immediately drain oil and remove filter while hot and wait until it stops dripping before replacing oil and filter. I If you use an engine flush other than seafoam make sure it is safe for the clutch

I would have needed a dozen long screws. I cut the bottom off and found it full of loose pieces. I removed the loose pieces and welded the bottom back on.

Here are a few more things you can try; A) rap the bolt head several times with a hammer like your driving a nail hard. You want give it several good firm hits but not overly hard. then grab with good vise grips and see if it will turn. B) if it still won't turn drill a hole in the end and drive a torx bit into it (the larger the bit the better). the hole needs to be smaller than the bit. grind the end of the bit flat so as to have sharp corners this way it will cut into the side of the hole better as you drive it in. then attempt to turn the bolt out. C) if B does not work than drill the hole bigger until the head snaps or falls off. Then remove the cover and remove the remainder of the bolt. Replace with new bolt

There are far better means of towing the bike than that. Even a utility trailer with a front wheel chock would be a far better choice.

Don't let that High pressure rating fool you. it only means that it is capable of reaching that high pressure because of a smaller piston put they often do not pump as fast as a lower rated pump which will usually pump faster because the piston is a tad larger. OR Go to a bicycle specialty store and pick up a quality hand pump. Some are two stage. the 1st stage allowing for faster pumping when pressure is low and then going the second stage when pressure is higher to make for easier although slightly slower pumping. These pumps are small and compact and easy to store in your saddle bag

Castrol is a top quality oil I have used it for years on most all my engines from trucks to bikes. It is actually one of my preferred oils.

Your header says 1978 but I assume you mean 1987. As far as that goes you came to the right place to find out anything you need to know about the bike in general or top of the line tech know how. You only need to ask. The bike itself provided it is still in good mechanical condition is a great machine highly reliable and the engine is almost bullet proof as long as it is properly maintained. Probably one of the most comfortable bikes lending itself to long hours on the road and handle curves extremely well. It has great acceleration and will get up go if you need to pass. Fuel millage not as great as the newer machine out there. It can be a tall bike if you have an inseam of 32 or less. and it is rather top heavy lending itself to a slightly different riding style versus other road bikes specially at slow parking lot speeds were you need to learn to counter balance the bike.

Make sure your kilt is short enough to dance a jig. But long enough to hide your lucky charms.

Not sure how good these things are, but if they work, getting blue tooth on our vintage bikes with cassette decks could not get any simpler. https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Bluetooth-Audio-Cassette-Receiver/dp/B06XDDHXRN/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=Marine-rated+Bluetooth®+adapter&qid=1617972359&sr=8-35 https://www.amazon.ca/Arsvita-Bluetooth-Cassette-Receiver-Adapter/dp/B07QSW6KNY/ref=pd_sbs_9?pd_rd_w=PLWOq&pf_rd_p=4dc33e2e-16b5-4e12-aab9-e86d5748e0cb&pf_rd_r=NB7ANZBMWNTS77A8KT8V&pd_rd_r=fc4da1f1-14d4-4462-85e5-72cb354f79a5&pd_rd_wg=R4aR9&pd_rd_i=B07QSW6KNY&psc=1