saddlebum

As long as it feels like it won't quit Take it for a good run You might be pleasantly surprised. start by circling the block a few times and if it is acceptable go for a good run. My bike acts up every spring and then clears up after a good run and then she is good for the rest of the season

Not entirely true depending on the quality of the plug it is better to plug and seal the hole than let water and debris enter the whole specially if salt is involved as the cords are more inclined to fail from rot or corrosion then having a few strands severed. As a person who involved in fleet maintenance and has installed several hundred plugs In 50 years of dealing with tires, I can honestly say it depends on the plug. I always use the Techcan plugs and have never had a failure despite not patching on the inside. The prep tool for these is not a reamer but actually spreads an opening in the cord for the plug. The supplier I got my tire supplies from demonstrated them by jamming them in the side wall of his steer tire (a definite no no but did prove his point. by the time he wore the tires out he had 250 plugs in it. I even have doubled up the plugs in large holes and they never had one fail running the tires out to the end of their usefull life. Now having said all that I would not use a plug or a patch alone on a motorcycle if possible. Experience has taught me it is always best to do both. if it is a straight in hole I would use a one piece plug patch. but if the hole is on an angle I would plug 1st then buff and patch the inside.

Its always a comfort knowing there is good rubber on the bike.

After all that work you did on the 1st gen now your gonna step down to a 2nd gen and you call that going one better. All kidding aside thats a nice looking scoot.

Home depot sells a carbon fiber pad that plumbers use to prevent heating stuff that does not want to be heated (except your fingers your on your own there). It has been a life saver for me on many occasions

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

Not without actually being in front or even better beside the bike so I can see what is actually going on.

This very true. I have had helmets were the buffeting varied from helmet to helmet. One was so severe that I had a sore neck and returned the Helmet the next day (fortunately it was one of those bike shops that would refund your helmet if not satisfied and not damaged or marked ) and I have helmets that resulted in no buffeting at all. All while riding with a cut down windshield.

Definitely a plug patch is the way to go but if the entry is too steep of an angle than plug 1st buff flat on the inside and then place the proper patch.

If they do repair it make sure the hole gets filled as well you do not want water and other debris getting in the hole.

sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cables and/or twist grip, idle adjust set to high, carb sync adjusters way out of adjustment, improperly set needles in the barrels, possible vacuum leak just to name a few that come to mind.

Have been down the same road numerous times. I am a firm believer in using a light coating of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray. I spray a light coating on both the gasket and gasket surface and allow to dry until it is still just tacky. If gasket thickness is not important then I just use a product called THE RIGHT STUFF instead of a gasket ( far superior to silicone). In many cases it is more reliable than a gasket such as some of the ford valve cover gaskets.

Mmmmm That used to be our standard repair technique when drivers brought their trailers into the shop with light faults and they had to get going. we used a tad more force behind our strikes though.

@UthredThat looks OEM. When you install the barrel the tab on the diaphragm should line up with the locating spot on the carb housing and the drain hole in the barrel should be at the six o'clock position. If required rotate the diaphragm on the barrel until alll lines up properly. The spring goes into the barrel and then the cover goes on. it should not be difficult. If need be get a small can of of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray (most auto parts sources carry it and is non-hardening and easily removable if needed ) and carefully spray a thin coat in the groove on the housing. Let it get tacky then set the diaphragm in place insert the spring into the barrel and then the cover.

After you pull the nail gently probe the hole to see how deep it goes and try to see if you can feel or maybe see any exposed cord material. if you feel fully confident that the tire has not been compromised in any way fill the hole with some vulcanizing compound to seal it from providing further entry of any foreign material. If you have any doubt as to the integrity of the tire play it safe and replace it.

@UthredI suggest you post a picture of the diaphram and the barrel as the OEM one does not have a slotted grove as per say. It uses two white nylon looking rings and a stainless lipped sleeve to hold them in place. The OEM diaphragm sits between the two white rings. There is an aftermarket diaphragm which eliminates the two white rings by cutting them out and sits in the resulting groove between the lip of the stainless sleeve and the body of the plastic barrel. These aftermarket diaphragms have a thick bead around the center hole and go on similar to mounting a tubeless tire on a rim. If you try to use the OEM type diaphram without the white rings it will not stay in place.

Check and clean all your grounds as well and check the fuse holders in the fuse box unless it has been updated it still uses the glass fuses and the clips get corroded and weak. This results in loose fuses with poor contact between the fuses and the retaining clips. There is also a master fuse between the left side of the battery and the starting solenoid. this fuse uses a replaceable leaf type fuse and there may be some spare leafs in the holder of this fuse make sure it is still good with clean and secure connections. Next you may want to disconnect inspect and clean all the connectors to the igniter unit as well as the contacts on the igniter unit itself. Abad connection here could effect the tach.

Don't be surprised if with the whole can of seafoam in the fuel it runs a little off and maybe smokes some when you take it for a run the next day. This is normal but once you run the tank close to empty and refill with fresh fuel it will clear up. I also suggest when you do run out that first tank full, delay your shifts and keep your RPMS to the high side I found this seems to help the cleaning process. I have also found the symptoms you mentioned are not uncommon with these bikes after sitting for a while it may not hurt to take the air cleaner off and spray the throat and slides with some seafoam as well and if possible manually reach down and carefully slide the barrels to make sure they are not sticking.

Not sure but I was under the understanding one of the reasons for lane splitting in California was to accommodate air cooled bikes which could overheat if trapped in stop and go traffic.

Your starting to sound like my Mrs..

When you heated the bolt did you completely cool it down before attempting to turn it or did you make the mistake of trying to to turn it while it was hot. NEVER turn a bolt while it is hot specially red hot as it is too soft and it will twist. The same can happen if you let the bolt cool slowly the idea is to heat and totally and quickly cool it down. the sudden cooling hardens and shrinks the bolt. Maybe I should have been more clear in my previously posted suggestions.

Trust me inexperience does not necessarily hold the monopoly on overthinking. Sometimes experience because you know what can go wrong can have you humming and hawing more so than a rookie.

Problem is when it comes to trying to influence your kids in one direction there is a whole twisted other world and media influencing your kids in another direction and you tend to be out numbered.

Really seems like a down to earth guy.