saddlebum

Here are three suggestions you can try: see if you can find something that will fit in the hole that can act as a guide bushing like maybe an uninsulated drilled out butt connector you can also try starting with a drill bit that fits perfectly in the hole and drill the screw just enough to form a dimple then go to a smaller bit the dimple should get you started on center Try starting with a really small bit wrap tape around it preferably aluminum tape until it just fits the hole leave enough of the bit exposed to drill a starting hole in the screw then remove the tape and drill a bit deeper then drill to the size needed for the torx bit THE TORX BIT YOU USE SHOULD IDEALLY BE HALF THE DIAMETER OF THE SCREW -

Well now you got two seals so just double them up..........That's gotta work..........Rght

My dog hears me coming and barks to let the wife know who hits the door opener button. No wiring to update, no remote to hide or get stolen. Just got to remember to keep mouth shut if she doesn't hit the button on time

Torx bits make great screw extractors. drill a hole smaller than the torx bit diameter. drill a second shallow counter bore hole the same size as the torx bit (this serves as a guide to center the bit when you tapit into the smaller hole). Grind the end of the bit flat to replace the rounded end with sharp corners this allows the bit to cut matching grooves as you tap the bit into the screw. I came up with this trick 40 years ago when I got stuck needing a screw extractor and have not owned a screw extractor since.

Vinegar and water can be very acidic as well and may be very aggressive on aluminum. At the shop where I work we use cascade dish washer soap to clean cooling systems most of the time. @Patch mentioned using a dishwasher cleaner that he states is effective as well. If you do use one of the strong off the shelf cleaner/de-scaler go with the two part system were part two is a neutralizer. I did see this one by Prestone sold by Canadian tire which sounds safe and effective. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/prestone-radiator-flush-plus-cleaner-650-ml-0380811p.0380811.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwos-HBhB3EiwAe4xM94zwKzYnk1bceYVikCfbhjzQwn3_ZoymqJc98DPhjzhSeoeKb7pX7xoCsLIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=122

usually I use a brass fitting. just turned it down to the OD i wanted pressed in a re-drilled hole in the lever then drill out the fitting to fit the pin. A piece of 1/8 brass pipe works well. the tricky part is re-drillling the handle since you want to maintain the same hole center. This best done in the drill press center the handle on a drill the size of the pivot and set the handle so the un-worn part of the hole sits properly against the drill then clamp it down. then replace the drill with a slightly larger drill and keep increasing the drill size until the hole is again round. then make you bushing out of a piece of brass so that it has to be forced into the hole the drill to fit the pin

two most common spots are the two covers on that side front one is the stater cover the rear one is the middle gear cover. the gaskets are very narrow on those. Also check the bottom bolt on the rear middle gear cover it should have a copper washer under the head or oil will leak from there. Another thing to check is the clutch slave seal were it mounts to the engine. it is behind the the second gear cover over hang between the stater cover and the middle gear cover. If none of these appear to be leaking than you need to look higher up.

If you can blow into the spark plug holes while holding the vacuum hose to the top of that cylinders carb. if you fortunate enough you might even be able to clamp the hose depending on size of hose to were the air box was clamped. shop vacs are great for this because you can get very size hose adapters or get the rubber pipe adapters from the plumbing section in any hardware store.

Ouch I hope you did not turn the engine over yet. @YoungWaynetake a vacuum cleaner or better a shop vac to it before you remove the housing or disturb anything else. Then carefully remove the housing as suggested and wash well. if you have a small enough nozzle try to suck what you can from the carbs. Another thing you can do, is remove the plugs, then slowly rotate the engine by hand. If you look up valve set in the manual it will show you how to rotate by hand. Rotate until you have a cylinder on its intake stroke (intake valve should be open ) then with the carb in wide open throttle position, blast compressed air into the spark plug hole you should feel air coming up through its connected carb. The idea here is to blast out as much dirt as possible back up and out through the carb. Repeat for each cylinder. Then after doing this rotate until the exhaust is open and blast air through it again (you should feel air coming out the exhaust). The idea here is to blast out as much grit as possible. What you do not want is grit residing in the cylinders and causing undo wear on the the cylinder and pistons. Although if you already attempted tarting it or doing a compression test this may be of small use by now but still cannot hurt. . Personally I am surprised someone would store a bike with no filter or at least some form of cover over the carbs.

The instructions I received with my windshield with regards to rain-x from the manufacture was Not to use the new formula. But that it was Ok to use either the original formula or the formula designed specifically for plastic windshields.

Also check the pivot pin and hole for the lever. They wear and get sloppy and as a result it affects the switch operation. I drilled and sleeved them then re-drilled and emery clothed the sleeve until I got a perfect fit.

Maybe @cowpucswitched to an E-Bike forum .. Since him and tips got E-Bkes. On that note, Knowing old puc he probably found one with no second gear so he could score a deal.

even if part of it was in the rain. still grounded

What..... you only carry one screw?

When your over filled. Its better to be between the high and low lines than to be over the high mark or under the low mark.

A compression check here is not a bad idea. Don't look for perfect readings at this time you just want a general idea that you at least have reasonable compression just to be sure there are no major issues. The valve clearance I would not worry to much about just yet unless there is a definite issue. Myself if an engine has not run for a while I prefer to run a few additional miles on it before setting valves, get things resettled so to speak. If the engine wont start but you have spark trickle a little bit of gas or lighter fluid down each carb (Start with about a tablespoon in each), then crank it and see if it will fire it should run for a few seconds. This will at least tell you if the engine is capable of firing up. Next move onto the carbs. Gentley with a long screw driver see if the sliders move freely a little bit of seafoam dribbled on the barrels before hand will lube them up a bit..Next I would give the carbs a good flush or what many here like to call a hot shot with carb cleaner. you can do this without removing the carbs. No point in me going into detail here as the tech section has good info on how to do this.

There is no dipstick. there is a sight glass at the lower right front corner of the engine. I would try airing up the tires and get the rest of the bike in shape before buy tires

I noticed a few of the older members showing expired memberships I partially suspect that since how we re-subscribe has changed that they are not sure were to go because I had to talk a couple of members through it over the phone.

I use lucas 20/50 for 4 stroke engines with wet clutches myself and am quite content with it. The master is the part on the handle bar to which the clutch lever is attached. the slave sits between the stater cover and the middle gear cover on the left side. You will find a squarish rubber piece in between the two. remove that rubber cover and you will see the slave and its bleeder screw. This is the bleeder screw you want to crack open to see if there is pressure remaining in the system when you release the clutch lever after first squeezing the clutch lever a couple times. If the clutch engages further when you crack the bleeder screw repeat the test but crack the bolt loose which connects the line to the master. if again the clutch further engages than the line should be OK and the master is likely the issue but if the second test makes no difference than ou may have a blockage in the line.

We do learn more that way. If you always think your right how will you ever know when your wrong.. Man that,s an old but effective trick we used to use years ago I have long since forgotten about. It was also a quick check for a faulty or stretched timing chain. Guess with cars going away from carbs you just don't much think about it any more. On the diesel trucks I mostly work on now good intake flow is indicated when your hat disappears into the turbo.

Nice

As long as the oil looks ok and is not contaminated it won't hurt to start it just to see how it runs. If I wanted to be cautious about anything I would pull the plugs and the ign module fuse so there is no spark and compression and crank it a few revolutions without the plugs so it will spin free on the starter to prime the oiling system a bit.

In my case I managed to get a burr on the outer brass seat that the needle seat goes into and it caused the needle to stick

Just checked my bike and suddenly remembered about that. Guess I got so used to setting them up on the bench I totally forgot that method. The tang that touches the needle is what you bend one way or the other until you get the right fuel level. Also the brass seat that the needle goes into should not be moving around.

The needle is the only thing that should move the brass seat the needle goes into should not